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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge P200 Mail Van - Part Two

168K views 2K replies 11 participants last post by  JCAllison 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey All,
Welcome to the continuing odyssey of the refurbishment of Lorrie Van Haul, one of the few, if not the only 1967 Dodge P200 Mail Van still in existence.

We're right at the point of doing all that is necessary to get Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine up and running.

In the event that you are new to this project and would like to catch up on what all has been done in the past couple of years, you will find that account in another thread on this forum titled "Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge P200 Mail Van".
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275562

It is a detailed account, complete with JPGs, of all the stuff that has gone into making Lorrie what she is today.

Tomorrow will hail the arrival of a 3/4" x 2-1/4", 16 threads per inch, Zinc Plated, Grade 5 Steel Bolt to go into the nose of Lorrie's Engine's Crankshaft making it possible to turn the Engine using a Socket and a Breaker Bar in order to distribute the AeroKroil, WD40, and 10W30 Motor Oil Cocktail that has been put into Lorrie's Combustion Chambers and on top of Lorrie's Pistons.

Once the Engine has been turned a few times, the Battery out of Ms. American 3.14159, the ONLY 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor that Google finds on the whole World Wide Web, will be installed in Lorrie and we're going to see if it will turn the Engine over.

If it does, then we're going to figure out what is wrong with the Ignition System Wiring, and do whatever it takes to get the Engine to turn by using the Starter Activation Switch.

Will keep you all updated on any progress.

Hope you all are well.

JC
 
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#3 ·
Hey Al,
Thanks. Much appreciated. I just didn't think to do that.

Well, already this morning, have had quite a workout. Changed both cat litter boxes, even though it is STILL raining. That's part of the Saturday morning routine.

Am hoping that UPS delivers the 3/4" x 2-1/4", 16-UNF Bolt today. Have been visualizing its installation and the turning of Lorrie's Crankshaft. Certainly hope that the Engine isn't frozen/seized.

Anyway, thanks again for adding the link.

HIT

JC
 
#6 ·
Hey Al,
No, but it should be here tomorrow.

We've been having rain here all day. SEVERE thunderstorms. Weather guessers are reporting over three inches falling in two hours. It's not yet over as the storms are moving North North East along a front that stretches from just West of Houston to just West of here. These storms are supposed to continue through the night. We are hunkered down here.

There is a lull, so I thought I'd check the E-Mail and the Forums, but can hear thunder to the South. Can't stay on the computer while there is lightning..

Hope you are doing well.

JC
 
#5 ·
I've been gone for a few days to Minnesota.
I would use a washer under the bolt myself.
 
#7 ·
I would use a washer under the bolt myself.
Hey Charlie,
I don't know how a washer is going to hold the Damper on because the underside of the Hex Head of the Bolt isn't going to go clear to the threaded Hole in the nose of the Crankshaft, but was thinking about putting a washer INSIDE the threaded Hole to keep the threads on the Bolt from bottoming out in the Hole. Is that what you were meaning?

JC
 
#8 ·
The washer should be big enough to seat on the dampener to secure it.
 
#9 ·
Hey Charlie,
Although it won't be known until the Bolt actually arrives here, which is expected to happen today, but I suspect that it is going to be too long to thread into the threaded Hole in the nose of the Crankshaft.

The reason that I say that is because the "Bolt Size and Tightening Information - 170, 198, & 225 Slant Six Engine" chart says that the Bolt is supposed to be 2.3" long (the Bolt that is coming is 2.25" long) with a minimum of 1.5" of thread, which implies that the threaded Hole in the nose of the Crankshaft is less than 1.5" in depth. The Bolt that is coming is threaded for the full 2.25" length.

The Damper is keyed onto the Crankshaft, and the Crankshaft nose is flush with the face of the Hub of the Damper. which means that there is going to be at least .75" between the underside of the Hex Head on the Bolt, and the nose of the Crankshaft.

Also, the Damper has quite a deep recess between the "face" of the Damper, and the Hub of the Damper.

I don't know what the diameter of the Crankshaft nose is, nor how big the Hub of the Damper is, but what I'm thinking is that once I'm into the process, all that will be revealed.

Probably the solution is to find out what the diameter of the Crankshaft nose is and get a bunch of washers that are bigger than that with .75" holes in them, and then just make a stack of them that is greater than the distance between the underside of the Hex Head on the Bolt and the nose of the Crankshaft.

Another thing that has to be done is to make sure that the threaded Hole in the nose of the Crankshaft is completely clean of any material that may have gotten into the threaded Hole over the years. Am going to clean it using a roll of Terry Cloth, soaked in solvent and then threaded into the hole to clean the bore.

Will keep you all updated as progress occurs.

JC
 
#10 · (Edited)
Hey All,
Have you ever heard the expression: "This is like a piece of mule meat! The more you chew on it the bigger it gets!"?

That's an old Texas saying meaning that the more one works on something, the bigger the job becomes.

Permit me to explain.

At about 2:00 p.m. the UPS Delivery Van pulls up, and the UPS Delivery Man hands me this little box. The box is opened, and there inside is this handsome, young 3/4" x 2-1/4" Fine Thread, Zinc Plated, Grade 5 Steel Bolt with a 1-1/8" Hex Head.

Eagerly it is taken out of it's plastic sack, taken to the Tool Box to get the Breaker Bar, and a 1-1/8" Socket with which to install it in the threaded Hole in the nose of Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant-Six Engine.

There is a 1-3/16" Socket, and a 1-5/16" Socket, but no 1-1/4" Socket!

Damn! I hate it when that happens.

But not to worry, there is this Big Mama Crescent Wrench (BMCW) that opens to 1-5/16" and though it is not the best way to do things, it will have to suffice.

So Lorrie is all ready with a large piece of Cardboard on the ground under her front end on which to lie to keep from getting muddy.

The Threaded Hole in the nose of Lorrie's Crankshaft has been cleaned with a solvent soaked rag wrapped around a 1/2" Bolt which was inserted and turned into the Threaded Hole in the nose of Lorrie's Crankshaft to clean the Threads.

The 3/4" Bolt is started into the Threaded Hole, and the first thing that is noted is that the Transmission Cooling Hoses connected to the Radiator are in the way of being able to put the BMCW on the Bolt. A Screw Driver is acquired, and the Hose Clamps are loosened, and the Hoses are removed and put up out of the way.

With gloved hands, the BMCW is put on the Head of the Bolt and the task of tightening it commences. It doesn't go in easily, but it IS going in. It gets tighter and tighter, and harder and harder to turn.

All of a sudden, Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant-Six Engine's Crankshaft turns!

HOORAY! The Engine is NOT seized up! :)

So the BMCW is repositioned and another few degrees of rotation are accomplished.

BUT, the Fan Blades are also beginning to turn because the Damper has a Fan Belt around it that goes to the Fan Pulley, then to the Alternator Pulley, and then back to the Damper.

And NOW begins the mule meat problems.

The Bolt isn't far enough into the Crankshaft for the Fan Blades to clear the Bolt Head. But not to worry, the Fan Blades can be pushed back, because the Fan Belt permits the Fan Pulley to slip. BUT, remember, the initial purpose of this whole exercise was to see if Lorrie's Engine was frozen, and as was noted previously, it is NOT.

So rather than continue with this procedure, it was decided to remove the 3/4" Bolt.

Alas, the Bolt won't come out!

Instead, the Engine begins to turn in the opposite direction and there's no way to stop it from so doing.

At this point, it is decided to just stop, and retreat, leaving the situation the way it is, and seek some quiet time to ponder what to do in order to accomplish this task properly.

And here is what that pondering has produced:

Need to acquire a 1-1/8" Socket.
Need to remove Lorrie's Front Bumper.
Need to remove Lorrie's Grille.
Need to remove Lorrie's Radiator.
This will give unrestricted access the the front of the Engine.
The Bolt can then be removed using the Impact Wrench.
This will also make it easier to turn the Engine over to distribute the oil that was put into the Combustion Chambers and Cylinder Bores.

So this is where the situation sits at the moment.

If anyone has an easier way to remove the Bolt, it would most certainly be appreciated.

If not, then tomorrow morning, before it gets up to 80 degrees as it is right now, the above delineated work will commence.

But at least, we know that Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant-Six is not dead.

I just have to ask the question again as has been asked many times before: "Why can't anything be easy?"

Hope you all are well.

JC
 
#11 ·
Hey All,
In a orgy of super-human effort, Lorrie Van Haul's Front Bumper and Grille were removed this evening.

Also, the Radiator has been taken loose except for the Bottom Hose, which has had its Clamp uninstalled, but the Hose itself is stuck on the Radiator Outlet Tube.

Removal of the Radiator it is going to have to wait till tomorrow when there's more energy to deal with the situation.

Will keep you all updated as events occur.

JC
 
#12 ·
Hey All,
Already this morning, have cleaned up the area around the front end of Lorrie Van Haul, and have taken the Radiator out. Had to cut the Bottom Hose off of the Radiator Outlet Tube. Then had to cut the Top of the Bottom Hose in order to get it off of the Water Pump Outlet. Will take the Hose to NAPA and get a replacement for it at the same time that the 1-1/8" Socket is acquired.

Was hoping to do that today, but the sky has gotten dark, and it looks as though it's going to rain some more, so that pretty much puts the kabosh on getting out.

BUT, am finding that having a clearly defined job is conducive to being eager to do it.

Yesterday while awaiting the arrival of the Bolt, some checking on the Electrical Circuitry was done. Found that there were some Circuits that didn't have continuity. Took one of them apart and cleaned the surfaces and that fixed the problem. Am thinking that once again corrosion has reared its ugly head. The Fittings are Copper. The Connectors are Steel.

QUESTION: Will Dielectric Grease prevent this corrosion without interrupting the flow of the electricity? Am thinking that if it will, then all the electrical will be taken apart, cleaned, and reassembled with a thin film of Dielectric Grease on the Connector.

Am also thinking that taking the Starter Relay out of the Ignition Circuitry. That will make things a bit easier. Lorrie didn't have a Starter Relay in her when this refurbishment was begun, and it has never been quite clear where all the Wires were to go. A fellow over at FordMuscleForum seemed to be quite positive about it, and so it was hooked up the way he directed, but still, I'M not sure about it. It seems that it would be a lot simpler to just have the Starter Switch be connected directly to the Starter Solenoid like it was before the Starter Relay was added.

Anyway, will keep you all informed if and when progress occurs.

BTW, this time change sure does mess a lot of things up. Wish they would just leave it alone.

JC
 
#13 ·
QUESTION: Will Dielectric Grease prevent this corrosion without interrupting the flow of the electricity? Am thinking that if it will, then all the electrical will be taken apart, cleaned, and reassembled with a thin film of Dielectric Grease on the Connector.
By all means use it on your electrical connections. Like you said, use a light film and it will work wonders.I used it on my boat and dirt bike all the time.
 
#16 ·
Hey All,
The stuck Bolt is out of the Threaded Hole in the Nose of Lorrie Van Haul's Crankshaft! :)

Got it unstuck by using the Big Mama Crescent Wrench (BMCW) and a medium sized Ball Peen Hammer.

Remember, it was previously reported that the threads in the Hole had been cleaned? NOT!

It actually took removing the Radiator, and a little over an hour of messing with it to actually clean the threads completely.

Started with a Tooth Brush and Paint Thinner.

Then used some CRC Industrial Super Degreaser, and more Tooth Brush to clean out the residue.

Then threaded in a paint thinner soaked piece of rolled up Terry Cloth, and then more Tooth Brush.

Then started threading in rolled up Viva Paper Towel soaked in Paint thinner, and more Tooth Brush.

Then when it appeared to be totally clean, put some WD40 in the hole and started threading in the Bolt.

Got about one turn and the Bolt got hard to turn with the BMCW, so ran the Bolt back and forth as if one were using a Tap. Got about another turn of the Bolt and then removed it.

Cleaned out the hole with the Tooth Brush and dried it with a Viva Paper Towel.

Sprayed in some more WD40, and the Bolt went in another turn before getting hard to turn. Worked it back and forth like a TAP and got another turn out of it.

Again cleaned out the hole with the Tooth Brush and dried it with a Viva Paper Towel.

And this routine continued till NOW, the Bolt can be turned BY FINGERS a full 13.25 turns before it bottoms out in the hole.

At 16 threads per inch, that means that the Bolt goes in 13.25/16".

When fully threaded in, the Fan Blades clear the Hex Head by about an 1/8", and there is room for a 3/8" thick Washer between the bottom side of the Bolt's Hex Head, and the face of the Damper.

Am still going to get a 1-1/8" Socket (and a NEW Bottom Heater Hose) to do the turning of the Engine to get the lubricant in the Combustion Chambers and Cylinder Bores distributed. BUT, either the Fan or the Fan Belt is going to have to be removed to do this as the Fan Blades won't clear the 1-1/8" Socket and Breaker Bar being used to turn the Engine.

Anyway, the weather is supposed to clear up tonight, and the trip to Livingston will probably be made tomorrow.

Bit-by-bit. Little-by-little.

JC
 
#22 ·
Hey All,
Have just returned from Livingston where a 1-1/8", Six Point Socket was acquired, along with a replacement for the Radiator Hose that had to be cut off of the Radiator Outlet Tube, and the Water Pump Inlet Tube.

QUESTION: Would a liberal coat of Bearing Grease on those Tubes make it easier to remove the Flex Hose if necessary, not to mention that the Hose would be easier to install if lubricated. Or, is there maybe something that is made specifically for such an application?

Am going to go loosen the Bolt in the Alternator that holds the Fan Belt Adjustment Bracket in order to loosen the Fan Belt so that the Fan won't turn when turning the Engine.

Then it will be time to turn the Engine by hand for a number of revolutions to distribute the lubricant that was put into the Combustion Chambers and Cylinder Bores.

Will keep you all updated as event occur.

JC
 
#23 ·
QUESTION: Would a liberal coat of Bearing Grease on those Tubes make it easier to remove the Flex Hose if necessary, not to mention that the Hose would be easier to install if lubricated. Or, is there maybe something that is made specifically for such an application?
I would use something with a silicone base(silicone spray works wonders) if you have something like that lying around the house. I'm not sure what's in the bearing grease that you have.
 
#24 ·
JC-

Sorry I haven't been watching this thread as closely as I had hoped. Didn't mean to leave you hanging there.

Vegetable oil works well for putting on tight-fitting hoses. Silicone spray works well too. Whatever you use, make sure it doesn't contain petroleum distillates, as these will eat through the rubber hose in no time.

Dielectric grease works wonders on connections of dissimilar metals. Keeps them from corroding by keeping air and moisture away from the connection.

Since your battery is disconnected, it wouldn't hurt to slather the stuff on her battery terminals either.

Maybe I missed it in the transition from one thread to another, but where did the original harmonic balancer bolt go? Did Lorrie not have one?!

In other news, I have recently been working on my own project, having installed new rear shocks, replaced a defective air-ride suspension bag, and am now working on replacing the factory mechanical fan with an electric two-speed fan. Lots of FUN!


-Eric
 
#27 ·
Hey Eric,
There you are!

Sorry I haven't been watching this thread as closely as I had hoped. Didn't mean to leave you hanging there.
It's alright. You supplied a cogent plan which has had the effect of helping overcome the fear that was running rampant, and that has re-energized the desire to get Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six up and running.

It has not gone as smoothly as it might have, but each glitch in the process has been dealt with and remedied, and the whole project once again seems to be going along steady by jerks. :)

Vegetable oil works well for putting on tight-fitting hoses.
Don't have any Vegetable Oil. Have some Olive Oil. Have some Pam! Also have some "I Can't Believe It's Not Butter"! :)

Silicone spray works well too.
That's what Al said. Am going to have to see if there is some in the collection of spray cans on the Spray Can shelf.

Whatever you use, make sure it doesn't contain petroleum distillates, as these will eat through the rubber hose in no time.
Alright.

Dielectric grease works wonders on connections of dissimilar metals. Keeps them from corroding by keeping air and moisture away from the connection.
Have obtained a tube of Dielectric Silicone. As was noted previously, it is about the consistency of Miracle Whip. The packaging says that it does everything that everyone has mentioned that Dielectric Grease does, so just figured that it must be alright.

Since your battery is disconnected, it wouldn't hurt to slather the stuff on her battery terminals either.
Have just finished doing that.

Maybe I missed it in the transition from one thread to another, but where did the original harmonic balancer bolt go? Did Lorrie not have one?!
Questioned that myself. Lorrie's Engine was rebuilt in 1984, and if there had been a Bolt in the nose of the Crankshaft, it would have gotten reinstalled. Don't recall that there was EVER a bolt in that Hole. Have been to the Slant Six Forum, and the conventional wisdom over there is that there is seldom a Bolt to be found in the Crankshaft Nose.

Am going to have to find a Washer to go under the Bolt, but it is going to have to be about 3/8" thick and about 3" in diameter. There's something strange about the dimensions of the Bolt and Washer. Would like to discuss this in depth at the proper time.

In other news, I have recently been working on my own project, having installed new rear shocks, replaced a defective air-ride suspension bag, and am now working on replacing the factory mechanical fan with an electric two-speed fan.
And all this is being done to a ???

Lots of FUN! -Eric
It IS if one enjoys this kind of thing.

Thanks for the response. It's certainly nice to see your name on the list.

Hope you are well.

JC
 
#26 ·
Hey All,
Wednesday Update:

Loosened the Bolt on the Alternator that holds the Fan Belt Adjusting Bracket, and removed the Fan Belt to keep the Fan from turning when Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine was turned over by hand using the NEW 1-1/8" Socket on the NEW 3/4", 16 TPI Bolt in the nose of the Crankshaft.

Gave each Cylinder a squirt of Valvoline 10W30 Motor Oil with the NEW Oil Can.

Then threaded in the NEW Bolt, and with an Extension and a Breaker Bar, turned the Engine over a dozen times. It was smooth as silk. :)

Removed the NEW Bolt, reinstalled and tensioned the Fan Belt, then tightened the Bolt going into the Alternator.

Removed the Battery from Lorrie's Battery Well. Removed the Battery from Ms. American, Battery Tray, put it in Lorrie's Battery Well, and hooked it up.

Then shorted between the Solenoid Terminal and the Positive Nut on the Starter with a pair of Channel Locks, and Lorrie's Starter turned the Engine over for ten seconds without hesitation. Did this twice just to make sure that it would do it.

Satisfied that everything was in working order, Ms. American's Battery was then removed from Lorrie's Battery Well, and put it back into Ms. American, after cleaning the Terminals, and Cable Fittings. A thin film of Dielectric Silicone was put onto the Terminals, and the Cables were reinstalled, as Ms. American is going to have to take me to go do the weekly errands tomorrow, after which, Ms. American won't be needed for a while.

The next thing is to reinstall Ms. American's Battery back into Lorrie Van Haul and figure out how to make the Starter Switch activate the Starter.

This is going to take some sorting out as there is a NEW Starter Relay in the Start/Run/Ignition Circuit.

Once that is figured out, we'll be ready to do the priming of the Oil Galleries just prior to seeing if the Engine will start.

The Radiator will have to be reinstalled and properly hooked up. Am not going to reinstall the Grille and Front Bumper until after the Engine is up and running. They will be the last things to go on.

Anyway, some positive headway has been made for the third day in a row.

Isn't this fun you guys? :)

Hope you all are well.

JC
 
#31 ·
Hey All,
Here is a GIF of a cross section of the Crankshaft Nose, the Damper, The Bolt and the Washer.

The drawing is probably not going to come out to be any kind of scale, but it is proportionally correct relative wise.

The red cross section is the Washer.



Am probably going to have to have the Washer fabricated specially, OR a 2" diameter Washer with a 13/16" hole in it might be available, and then to make up the thickness multiple washers could be used. to get the 3/8" thickness necessary to tighten the Bolt Down and hold the Damper in place.

Will work this out one way or another.

JC
 
#33 ·
Hey All,
In keeping with the format of the rest of the Electrical Wiring in Lorrie Van Haul, which is that each circuit is its own stand-alone system, that is: Each circuit has its own fuse and wiring. The Left Headlight is not in any way dependent on the Right Headlight. Each Turn Signal has its own wiring and this goes for each electrical unit in Lorrie's electrical system.

So what is going to be done is make each of the following three circuits also "stand-alone" circuits:

The Start Circuit;
The Run Circuit;
And the Charging Circuit.

Let us first consider the Start Circuit.

The Start Circuit Switch is a Two Input Terminals, Two Output Terminals, Push-On, Release-Off Switch.

A Wire from a Fused, 12 Volt Source goes TO both Input Terminals of the Start Switch.

The first Wire FROM the Start Switch goes to the Starter Solenoid. When the Start Switch is activated, it energizes the Solenoid which activates the Starter, which turns the Engine.

The second Wire FROM the Start Switch goes to the "Batt (+)" side of the Ignition Coil. When the Start Switch is activated, it sends a full 12 Volts to the "Batt (+)" side of the Ignition Coil. This happens ONLY when the Start Switch is activated. When the Start Switch is deactivated, the full 12 Volts ceases to go to the "Batt (+)" Terminal of the Ignition Coil.

The "Dist" Terminal of the Ignition Coil goes to the Condenser in the Distributor.

The Output of the Ignition Coil goes to the Rotor in the Distributor which distributes the electricity to each individual Spark Plug.

This is the COMPLETE Start Circuit.
--------------------
Let us next consider the Run Circuit.

The Run Circuit Switch is a Two Input Terminals, Two Output Terminals, Push-On, Push-Off Switch.

A Wire from a Fused, 12 Volt Source Goes TO both Input Terminals of the Run Switch.

The first wire FROM the Run Switch goes TO the Input Side of the Ballast Resistor.

A Wire then goes FROM the Output Side of the Ballast Resistor TO the "Batt (+)" Terminal of the Ignition Coil.

The second Wire FROM the Run Switch goes to the Ignition Terminal of the Voltage Regulator.

So far, this arrangement is believed to make it possible to: 1. Start the Engine; and 2. Make the Engine run, but it is running off the electricity in the Battery, and the Battery is NOT being recharged.

Let us now consider the Charging Circuit.

At this point, I must confess that I am not FULLY sure how the Battery Charging Circuit works. Am going to have to do some more research to understand it.

But here is what the Charging Circuit involves:


The Run Switch;
The Alternator;
The Voltage Regulator;
And the Ammeter.

The following is a description of the Charging Circuit taken from the Electrical Diagram in the Dodge Van Manual. [NOTE: This is MY interpretation of this Electrical Diagram and may or may not be accurate or cogent.]

The Alternator has three Wires:

Batt;
Ground;
And Field.

The Batt Terminal of the Alternator is connected to the "+" Terminal of the Ammeter.

The " - " Terminal of the Ammeter is connected to "+" Terminal of the Battery.

The Ground Terminal of the Alternator is connected to the Ground Terminal of the Voltage Regulator.

The Field Terminal of the Alternator is connected to the Field Terminal of the Voltage Regulator.

Am hoping that someone here who knows about this Circuitry will either confirm or reject this interpretation.

In the meantime, I am going to be in the process of completely disassembling the Wiring in Lorrie's Start, Run, and Charge Circuitry, cleaning all the Terminals, and reassembling using the Dielectric Silicone Compound.

Will keep you all updated on any progress should any occur.

JC
 
#34 ·
.

Am hoping that someone here who knows about this Circuitry will either confirm or reject this interpretation.
That won't be me Jim. I stay away from electronics all I can. I can change a light bulb and wire a light switch, but that's about all. I did replace a wiring harness in a 1970 Cuda, but that was pretty much straight forward. Is it totally in need of what your planning?
 
#36 · (Edited)
Hey All,
Friday (though it FEELS like a Thursday) Afternoon Update:

Have removed all the Wires from, and have removed Lorrie's Fuse Panel.

Have taken it apart, cleaned all the contact points, reassembled it with Dielectric Silicone Compound. Found one place where a Rivet had loosened, and that Fuse Holder wouldn't pass any current. So that Rivet got tightened, and it now does what it's supposed to do.

Have also taken the Dash Board loose, and am going to trace down each Circuit. And THIS time, am going to make a diagram so that each Fuse's Circuit will be documented.

Am just taking a break from refurbishing the Fuse Panel.

Have to go reinstall it, and hook all the Wires back up to it.

Will keep you abreast of any progress that happens.

JC
 
#40 ·
Hey All,
Another Friday (though it FEELS like a Thursday) Evening Update:

Got the Start Switch sorted out.

Got the Wire TO the Start Switch coming FROM Fuse Number Twelve. There are then two Wires coming FROM the Start Switch: One goes TO the Starter Solenoid, and the Second one goes TO the "Batt" Terminal of the Ignition Coil. These two Wires are not yet connected as the proper Connectors are not on site. Will go to the Hardware Store tomorrow morning and get a supply of them.

Got the Wire TO the Run Switch coming FROM Fuse Number Eleven. There is presently one wire coming FROM the Run Switch: It goes TO the Ballast Resistor. The Wire FROM the Ballast Resistor goes TO the "Batt" Terminal of the Ignition Coil.

There MAY have to be another Wire added to the Run Switch but am not sure about that. More research has to be done on this subject.

All in all, it has been a good day.

Bit-by-bit. Little-by-Little.

JC
 
#41 ·
Hey All,
Saturday Update

Went to the Hardware Store and got a supply of the proper Connectors. Got all the Wires FROM and TO where they are supposed to go. The wiring of Lorrie Van Haul is finished.

The Dash Board has been reinstalled.

Am going to have to return two packages of Connectors as they do go together so instead of using them, the necessary connections was made with Barrels instead of Clips. Will return the two packages of Connectors next time Ms. American and I are out.

Under the heading of "Why can't anything be easy?", while at the Hardware Store, got five Washers with 3/4" Holes with which to secure the Damper to the Crankshaft. Turns out three Washers doesn't tighten against Damper before the Bolt reaches the bottom of the Threaded Hole, and four Washers Doesn't permit the Bolt to go in far enough to keep the Fan from hitting it! The Bolt needs to be about 1/4" shorter.

Am taking a break and when rested, will go take the Battery out of Ms. American and put it Lorrie to see if everything works. Want to see if the Starter turns with the Start Switch.

If everything goes well, will reinstall the Radiator and hook up all the Hoses. Then will add Gasoline and Water.

Remember that the Spark Plugs are still not installed, nor is the Distributor hooked up.

What we are trying to do is get Gasoline to the Carburetor, and Oil up into all the Oil Galleries. So in order to do that, we will, per Eric, the Engine Builder's instructions, crank Lorrie's Engine for four fifteen second periods with a couple of minutes rest between each period to let the Starter cool.

Once all that is done, the Spark Plugs will be reinstalled, the Distributor hooked up, and if everything has gone well, Lorrie should be ready to start.

I'm reasonably confident that she will start and run, but still I'm scared to death.

Nonetheless, am going to summon up the courage to just go ahead and see if it will happen.

The Distilled Water, Gasoline, and Automatic Transmission Fluid are all on site.

Will let you all know what happens.

JC
 
#42 ·
Hey All,
Just wanted to interject a "real world" comment here about the Bolt that goes into the nose of a 225 Slant Six Engine in order to maybe save someone else from having the same problems that I had.

At this website:

http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpages/ARP-studs/sl6-fastener-size-torque-chart.htm

It lists the Vibration Dampener Bolt as being a 3/4", 16 TPI, tightened to 135 ft/lbs, with a 1-¼" Hex Head, and a 2.3" length with 1.5" min. thread length.

I was able to obtain a Bolt that is a 3/4", 16 TPI, 1-1/8" (not 1-1/4") Hex Head, 2-1/4" in length and has no shank (is threaded from the end to just under the Hex Head).

The problem that I had is that the Threaded Hole in the nose of the Lorrie Van Haul's Crankshaft is 13.25/16" of an inch deep. By that I mean that the bolt only goes into the Hole 13.25 turns before it bottoms out.

With the Damper keyed onto the nose of the Crankshaft, with its Fan Belt Groove properly aligned with the Alternator and Fan Pulley Grooves, and the Bolt threaded all the way into the Hole, the under-side of the 1-1/8" Hex Head is 5/16" (20/64") from the face of the Damper.

Also cogent is that the Hex Head is 1/2" thick. This means that when the Bolt is threaded all the way into the nose of the Crankshaft, that the top of the Bolt is 13/16" (52/64") from the face of the Damper.

As mentioned previously, a "thick washer" would be needed to hold the Damper in place.

In this case "thick" means the ABSOLUTE minimum thickness necessary would have to be an 11/32" thick Washer, with a 3/4" hole and a 2" Diameter. This thickness (11/32") would allow a 1/32" tightening.

To find a Washer that thick has proved to be impossible, but one can use multiple Washers to make up that thickness. So not to worry, right?

Today, I went to the Hardware Store and found Washers that are 2" in diameter, 9/64" thick, with a 13/16" hole, and, I got five of them.

And this next part comes under the heading of: "Why can't anything be easy?".

A stack of two of them comes out to be 18/64" which is less than 11/32" (22/64") which means that the Bolt bottoms out in the Hole before the Washers tighten up against the Damper.

"So why not use three Washers?", you might ask.

A stack of three of them comes out to be 27/64", which is more than the 11/32" (22/64") minimum.

And one would think that this would solve the problem. Right?

Well, it doesn't. With three Washers in place, the Bolt tightened against the three Washer stack, NOW the Fan just "ticks" the top of the Bolt!

But all is not lost for there IS a "real world" solution to this problem.

But before we get to THAT, let me make another "real world" observation: There is no way to torque that Bolt to 135 ft/lbs because the Engine turns at less than 135 ft/lbs.

So this being a "real world" problem, it needs a "real world" solution.

So here is what I have done. Three Washers were put on the Bolt, and the Bolt threaded into the hole in the nose of the Crankshaft and tightened to where the Engine turns. Then the Breaker Bar was put on and a hammer was used to "impact" the Bolt as tight as it will go.

But, the Fan still "ticks" the top of the Bolt.

The "real world" solution to THAT problem was to simply apply a little pressure to each blade of the Fan, bending it just slightly forward so it no longer "ticks" the Head of the Bolt.

BUT, there IS an easier solution to this problem, and that is to NOT get a 2-1/4" long bolt.

If I had gotten a 2" Bolt instead, then two Washers could have been used, and the Bolt would have gone further into the threaded Hole without bottoming out, and the Fan would not have had to have been bent.

This is a case of "Live and Learn".

Hope you all are well.

JC
 
#43 ·
The "real world" solution to THAT problem was to simply apply a little pressure to each blade of the Fan, bending it just slightly forward so it no longer "ticks" the Head of the Bolt.


J
I would do that as a very last resort. Is there any way you can grind off some material on the threaded end of the bolt to give you the clearance needed?
 
#49 ·
Hey All,
Sunday Afternoon Update:

Lorrie's Radiator is COMPLETELY re-installed!

First thing, attached the Bottom Hose to the Water Pump Inlet with the Clamp positioned to where it can be taken loose without having to remove the Radiator. Lubricated the Hose with some Greaseless Lubricant which says on the container that it can be safely used on Rubber.

Put the Over Flow Hose on the Radiator, and put the Radiator in place and bolted it down. There WAS a Bracket to hold the Over Flow Hose in place, but it promptly broke off while attempting to secure the Over Flow Hose. Am going to use a Nylon Tie Wrap to hold the hose in place.

Got under Lorrie's Front End and put the Hose on the Bottom Outlet Tube with the Clamp positioned to where it can be taken loose without having to remove the Radiator. Used the Greaseless Lubricant on that connection.

Hooked up the Top Hose with both Clamps positioned to where they are accessible through the Doorway to the Radiator Cap.

Hooked up both Transmission Cooling Hoses with the Clamps readily accessible.

The whole process took about an hour and went flawlessly.

Now if the Radiator doesn't leak, we're in business Cooling System-wise.

The skies are starting to get overcast, and it looks as though it will rain before the Sun goes down. Am going to put the Tarp over Ms. American, and call it a day here.

Hope you all are having a GREAT weekend.

JC
 
#50 ·
Way to go Jim. Things seem to be moving along nicely for a change.

It's a beautiful weekend here. I've been doing lots of lawn work.I've got to take it easy because I'm on new meds and sometimes they knock me for a loop! The flowers are up and starting to bloom. I love this time of year.
 
#51 ·
Way to go Jim. Things seem to be moving along nicely for a change.
Hey Al,
Have spent a full seven days getting Lorrie ready for her pre-start-up routine per Dr. Eric, the Engine Builder's instructions. If the pre-start-up routine goes as planned, then Wednesday afternoon will see the first attempt to start Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine.

It's a beautiful weekend here. I've been doing lots of lawn work.I've got to take it easy because I'm on new meds and sometimes they knock me for a loop!
"New meds"? "Loop"?

The flowers are up and starting to bloom.
Here too. Noticed that the Wild Rose Bush has put out two BIG Black (actually REALLY dark Red) Roses.

I love this time of year.
The problem here is that this is already Spring which will last a week, and Summer is going to start on March 25, 2012, and will last till Crimmas. Sure am glad that Global Warming is all a hoax. Imagine how long Summer would last if it was real! :)

I'm outta here for the day.

JC
 
#52 ·
Hey All,
Have been reviewing all the stuff that has been done, and have a couple of questions.

In the Dodge Van Manual, the Electrical Diagram shows that the Voltage Regulator has three Terminals:
1. Ign (Ignition), which is connected to the Run Switch.
2. F (Field), which is connected to F (Field) Terminal of the Alternator.
3. Grd (Ground), which is connected to the Grd (Ground) Terminal of the Alternator.

The Electrical Diagram also shows that the Alternator also has three Terminals:
1. Batt (Battery), which is connected to the Ammeter.
2. F (Field), which is connected to the F (Field) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator.
3. Grd (Ground). which is connected to the Grd (Ground) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator.

Remember, this is per the Electrical Diagram in the Dodge Van Manual.

In the REAL WORLD of Lorrie Van Haul, the Voltage Regulator doesn't HAVE a Grd (Ground) Terminal, and neither does the Alternator.

FIRST QUESTION: Am I safe in assuming that both the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator are grounded by their Mounting Brackets?

Continuing: In the Electrical Diagram is shown that the Wire going from the Run Switch to the Ign (Ignition) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator goes through a 6 amp Fuse.

In the REAL WORLD of Lorrie Van Haul, the 6 amp Fuse is in the line that goes from the 12 Volt Source to the Run Switch, and then to the Ign (Ignition) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator.

SECOND QUESTION: Does it really make any difference WHERE the 6 amp Fuse is? It seems to me that the Voltage Regulator would be protected in either case.

Late Breaking News: The weather guessers are now saying that it is supposed to rain here till Friday! :( Will just have to wait and see.

Hope you all are well.

JC
 
#53 ·
I think I'll pass on those questions. I wouldn't want to make things worse for you. Hopefully Eric, Charlie or Larry will stop by and give you a hand.
 
#55 ·
I think I'll pass on those questions.
Hey Al,
Oh come on! :) Take a guess. :) Let me give you a bit of clue here. The Alternator to Voltage Regulator connections were NOT messed with during this refurbishment, and Lorrie's Charging System was working fine before. So the odds are that YES, the Alternator and the Voltage Regulator ARE grounded through their Mounting Brackets. Actually, I was just hoping to get some reinforcement that it was going to be alright the way it is.

Upon considering the Second Question, I decided that it would be best to put a 6 Amp fuse in the Circuit going from the Run Switch to the Ign (Ignition) Terminal on the Voltage Regulator, but a strange thing happened on the way to doing that.

Was reminded that there are TWO Wires going FROM the 12V Source to the Run Switch. And each of those TWO wires have their own Fuses. There are also TWO Wires running FROM the Start Switch, one to the Input of the Ballast Resistor, and the other to the Ign (Ignition) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator. SO, the wire going TO the Ballast Resistor has a 30 Amp Fuse in the Wire coming FROM the 12 Volt Source, and the wiring going TO the Voltage Regulator is supposed to have a 6 Amp Fuse in the Wire coming FROM the 12 Volt Source.

But, there is a small problem even with that... And the problem is that after going completely through the quite profuse (forgive the pun) supply of Fuses, there is not even ONE 6 Amp Fuse! There are 5 Amp Fuses, and 7.5 Amp Fuses, but no 6 Amp Fuses. That should be alright, seeing as to how all this time, there has been a 30 Amp Fuse in the Circuit going to the Voltage Regulator, and it has never caused any problems. So have put a 7.5 Amp Fuse in that line and the next time at the NAPA will get a supply of 6 Amp Fuses and change it out at that time.

"All's well that ends well." (W. Shakespeare)

I wouldn't want to make things worse for you. Hopefully Eric, Charlie or Larry will stop by and give you a hand.
My mother used to say: "I'd like to help you out, but I don't know how you got in!" :)

Oh Al, you should see the sky to the West of here. WE have a real storm coming. It's supposed to bring up to 15" of rain. It should be here in a couple of hours. And it is supposed to rain till Friday! :( There is even some Tornado warnings. Fortunately am all stocked up with food and drink and won't have to get out till this weather system passes.

I see where you guys up there in the northeast are having record breaking high temperatures. Some as high as 30 degrees warmer than the old records. Sure am glad that Global Warming is all a hoax. Just imagine how hot it would get if it were REAL! :)

You stay cool. I'll try to stay dry and firmly planted on the ground.

JC
 
#54 ·
Hey All,
In doing some more checking, have found a glitch in system.

The Fuse from the 12 Volt source to the Run Switch is a 30 Amp Fuse, therefore, the Wire from the Run Switch to the Ign (Ignition) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator would therefore be getting 30 Amps instead of 6 Amps!

The second Wire from the Run Switch goes to the Input of the Ballast Resistor which is not run through a Fuse, so am assuming that it SHOULD be getting current straight from the 12 Volt Source.

Am going to reroute the Wire from the Run Switch to the Ign (Ignition) Terminal of the Voltage Regulator through a 6 Amp Fuse just for good measure.

Whaddaya think?

JC
 
#61 ·
I see it's a little cool down your way today Jim.
Hey Al,
Just went out and checked the thermometer, and is is sitting right on 70 degrees. Skies are clear to the West. The rain may be over for a while.

It's beautiful here today. Mid 70's as I type.
It's warmer where you are than it is where I am.

Got a lot done around the house today.
The Craftsman 42" Riding Lawnmower just got returned from the Lawnmower Shop at noon today. It had stopped going last Thansgibbon while mowing the lawns for the last time in 2011. Surmised that it was something wrong with the Transaxle. Well, they checked it out and could find nothing wrong! Only cost $52.40 to find that out. NOW, am going to try to mow the place again. Am going to see if it will do the job.

Have just become a registered member of a Lawnmower Forum, and if the Craftsman won't do the job, am going to see what they have to say about this situation.

Anyway, am planning on working on getting Lorrie up and running tomorrow.

Will let you know what happens.

JC
 
#64 · (Edited)
Hey All,
This is what has been done so far this morning.

Filled the Radiator with Distilled Water.
There are no leaks so far. There are three gallons in Lorrie's Radiator.
Poured two of Gasoline of fresh Gasoline into the Gas Tank.
Saved enough to prime the Carburetor.
Installed Ms. American's Battery into Lorrie.
To insure that the Battery had a good charge after starting and moving Ms. American so that the Craftsman Lawnmower could be moved, Ms. American was brought up to operating temperature which charged the Battery.
Once the Battery was in Lorrie, the Start Switch was activated.
The Engine turned nicely.
Let the Engine rotate for 15 seconds.
Let the starter rest for one minute to cool down.
Let the Engine rotate for 15 seconds.
Let the starter rest for one minute to cool down.
Let the Engine rotate for 15 seconds.
Let the starter rest for one minute to cool down.
Let the Engine rotate for 15 seconds.
By this time, the Fuel Pump had pumped about 1/4" of Gasoline to the In Line Fuel Filter.
Also, by the last 15 second rotation, the Oil Pressure Gauge was reading 30 PSI.
Reinstall the Spark Plugs.
Reinstalled the Spark Plug Leads using Dielectric Grease on the Boots.
Reconnected the Wire from Ballast Resistor to the Ignition Coil.
Reconnected the "+" Cable to the Distributor.
Was going to reconnect the Tachometer Wire to the "+" on the Ignition Coil, but couldn't find the Wire. That's something that is yet to be done.
Double checked Oil level, Water level. They were fine.
Got a Wet Towel available in case Lorrie's Carburetor catches on fire.

Now what is left to do is:
Put a little bit of Gasoline in the Carburetor Throat.
Turn on the Run Switch.
Activate the Start Switch.

And Lorrie should Start.

I'm sitting here tense, and anxious.

But am heartened that there IS some gas in the In Line Fuel Filter, which means that the NEW Fuel Pump is working and the Fuel Line from the Gas Tank is open. Am also heartened that the Oil Pressure Gauge shows 30 PSI, which means that the Oil Pump is working.

Also, I have honked the Horns, activated the Windshield Wipers, turned on the Lights and High Beams, and the High Beam Indicator Light works, turned on all the Turn Signals, and Four-Way Flashers.

Everything works.

Am going to have the Gear Shift Selector in Park with the Parking Brakes applied when the Engine is started.

There is going to be some stuff to mess with, such as the Fuel Level Indicator (which has NEVER worked properly). and the Tachometer, and whatever else isn't yet right.

But am getting ready to go out and see if Lorrie will awaken after sixteen years of being in a coma. Am hoping that everything will go alright. If she awakens, she will be a VERY dependable vehicle because just everything about her has been worked on.

As previously mentioned, I am feeling a lot of stress, tension and anxiety, but I'm also eager and pretty confident that Lorrie will be just fine.

Will let you know how it all goes.

JC
 
#65 ·
Hey All,
Went out, put some Gasoline into the Carburetor Throat. Turned on the Run Switch. Activated the Start Switch. Engine turned, but there is no fire! Put some more Gasoline in the Carburetor Throat. Activated the Start Switch. Engine turned, but again, there is no fire.

There is more wrong with Lorrie than with which I know how to deal.

Tested the Ballast Resistor for continuity. It is fine, but there is a full twelve volts going to the Batt side of the Ignition Coil from the Start Switch which does NOT go through the Ballast Resistor. So we are maybe looking at an Ignition Coil. We are maybe looking at a Condenser in the Distributor.

Also, there is a Wire (I suspect it is from the Tachometer) that is going to the "-" side of the Ignition Coil. Am going to remove that wire.

QUESTION: Shouldn't the wire from the Tachometer be going to the "+" side of the Ignition Coil? I may have that hooked up wrong.

Am going to go do that, and try again.

JC
 
#67 ·
QUESTION: Shouldn't the wire from the Tachometer be going to the "+" side of the Ignition Coil? I may have that hooked up wrong.
I'm thinking your right Jim, but again, I'm on drugs. lol
 
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