Update. Update.
Found (in the factory service manual)
Body 23-25 page 891
Electric Window Regulator
Removal Steps:
1. remove trim panel
2. remove water vapor barrier
3. remove window stop and bracket
4. remove stereo speaker
5. lower glass to full down position
6. remove
vent wing
7. use a drill to remove rivets holding regulator to door
8. disconnect regulator arm from all lift channels
9. remove regulator through access hole
Install Steps:
1. insert regulator through access hole
2. connect regulator arm to all lift channels
3. use 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to attach regulator to door
4. install
vent wing
5. raise glass to full up position
6. install stereo speaker
7. install window stop and bracket
8. install water vapor barrier
9. install trim panel
in a different section it describes servicing the regulator and motor as a unit, outside the door, so I believe this means "
do not" dissassemble inside the door
Power Windows
8S-4 page 403
Regulator and Motor
Removal Steps:
1. disconnect wire from motor
2. remove three rivets holding regulator to inner panel
3. maneuver assembly to disengage slider arm from lift channel
Bench steps:
1. remove regulator from door
[WARNING: Step 2 and 3 must be followed or Injury may result]
2. secure regulator in a vise to prevent sector gear from rotating
3. remove counter balance spring (danger! under high tension)
4. remove three screws holding motor to regulator
5. remove motor from regulator
6. inspect gear for missing teeth, free rotating motion; test motor
7. reinstall motor
8. reinstall counter balance spring
NOTE: I have come full circle in my thinking and explorations. I did things the "hard way" like everyone else, but kept looking for the safer and correct way of doing things.
-- there had to be an easier way
-- it turned out Chrysler/Dodge was thinking you just had to remove the Stereo Speaker, Stop bracket and "most" importantly the "
Vent Wing" window to make room for removing the regulator and motor (with the counter balance spring still attached) as a "single" unit
The Window guides are the black "vertical" rails from top to bottom.
The Window guide toward the forward (in the direction of the engine) is directly below and [part of] the
Vent Wing
removing the motor "has to be done" outside the door on a bench "in a vise" to protect yourself !!
in my case I chose to destroy the regulator, to protect myself and clear the way for new parts
assembling the new parts must also take place outside the door and on a bench "in a vise" to protect yourself !! -- to get that regulator arm assembly [out], you have to either cut it like I did, or collapse it which places enormous tension on that
Spring its designed to "force" that arm up to fight the force of
gravity on that window trying to pull down its weight -- it "counter balances" the force of gravity so that the motor does not have to work so hard.
but your job is to get the regulator [
out] of the door -- so rather "dangerously" you have to collapse the arm and its pivot arm into a slim single flat rod.. which the Spring will be trying to force apart -- and the
Sector Gear with all those holes and [
SHARP SHEARING] pieces which could catch anything that happens to get in the way.
Not to mention if that motor were to be removed and the tension suddenly released [
EXPLOSIVELY] it could go flying off like a very heavy, very fast moving object in any direction.
I will have to remove the Stereo Speaker, Stop bracket and "
Vent Wing" window before putting it all back together to make room for reattaching to the lift channels and attaching the regulator to the door.
The Lift channels are the horizonal silver things.
The two at the top are directly attached to the window glass.
The one midway down the door is attached to the inner door metal.
To get "wheels" on the Lift arms of the regulator back in the "lift channels" you have to work on the bottom "wheel" first, then lower the window and work on the top "wheels".
The Wheels actually "pivot" themselves on rounded ball bearing like axels, so they don't have to remain in a plane parallel to the flat surfaces of the arms themselves all the time.
That Spring will be under [
tension] again when you insert it in the door, so however you choose to bind it, or hold it closed, do so safely.. do not [Trust] the motor itself to hold it closed, it is designed not to hold the regulator closed in a collapsed position, it could fly apart at any time.
So far all of the reading I have done has not unearthed Chrysler/Dodges assembly method, other than mentioning "vises" and "bench". Some of Dormans papers online suggest drill a hole [in the regulator and its attached backplane] and insert a bolt to hold it close and keep it from rotating until you have everything in place and can stand clear while removing the bolt. You should "Expect" the spring to have the ability to raise the window when released.. even if it should not unless the motor assists it.
The only problem is.. as you can see from the pictures, you won't have any access to remove a bolt from the outside or inner door side.. or will have very little.
All I can think is that from the bottom.. underneath that mid-way Lift channel.. the regulator arms should never travel.. when completely bolted down.. so something could reach up and around to release a bolt. I'd like to find a tool for that.. and not be in the line of fire when the tension is released.
-- with regards to positioning the motor on the
Sector gear. I was originally worried about synching up its range of motion and the gear travel position. Until I read that the motor is a constant velocity dc motor that simply stops when it encounters too much resistance. That would make sense. Inside the door lock solenoid (which is actually an accuator) is a hair dryer style DC motor with gears. In series is a glass ampule or envelope with what looks like a bi-metallic switch. If too much current flows through it.. I would assume it would heat up and break contact.. until it is cooled down and re-established contact.. so its like a self-resetting "thermal limiter".
A motor is designed to convert current into motion, but when it hits resistance it becomes a really good heating coil and heats up.. unless it has some type of thermal limiter too.. so without including a range of motion sensor or DC servo type of arrangement.. it looks like 1989 technology used simple heated breaker technology to make and break contact when the limits of motion where reached. The glass envelope was no doubt to contain a vacuum so like a light bulb the switch contacts were insulated and sparks could not fly to create a fire hazard.
-- that means when the window hit the top of the frame of the door it would stop, heat up the bi-metallic switch or breaker and release the circuit, and when the window hit the bumper stop at the bottom of the door it would do the same.