DodgeTalk Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

"New" 1987 D250 LE with power window problem

3K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  jwillis84 
#1 ·
Hello All,

I haven't been on the forum in a while. I was on another site with my questions about my "new" truck, but got no answers. Lots of views, but no answers (yet). Anyway, I have recently bought a
 
#2 ·
1987 D250 LE. Ihave determined that the drivers power window motor is bad. There was a thread on how to replace the motor, but with the window all the way up. Unfortunately, my window is all the way down.

My question(s) is: can the motor be replaced withe the window all the way down? Can you manually raise the window?


Thanks in advance!
 
#3 ·
Wow - never had one stick all the way DOWN before. :eek:

Ya' KNOW... I think I'd call someone like Safelite, since they've fixed all KINDS of autoglass, and ask THEM how to do it (or maybe even have them do it), just to save the expense that will happen, if you do it WRONG. :teacher:
 
#4 ·
I would pull the door panel and see if you can locate the motor. If so tap on the motor(with the end of a ratchet) while holding the switch in the up position. If may move enough to get it where you want it. I just did my 2nd gen ram window motor a few days ago. I used this same method to get it to move.
 
#5 ·
You are right, War Wagon. I have never had one stuck in the down position either. I will try the tapping method, Moparite. I will keep you guys posted on my progress, or lack thereof.
 
#6 ·
1989 D250

I just removed the window regulator and lift motor on the Driver side this last weekend.

The motor was dead and stuck in the Up position, but I did not attempt to disengage the motor from the regulator gear teeth because of the "Warning: Death possible" messages that the counter balance spring could become loosed and hurl things at you at hazardous consequences.

I could not find a way of maneuvering the attached motor and regulator around the forward windows Glyde rail. So.. I got out the Dremel tool and the sander/polishing blade.. the thin paper like sandpaper disks.. and "cut" the regulator arm, took two and half discs and carefully holding the blade against the arm to cut it in half.

The reason I did this was many fold, safety (no counter balance spring loosening), it was rusted so much it looked unsalvagable.. Dorman has a reputation of "better" than OEM equipment replacement regulators which are designed by digitizing the OEM parts and re-engineering them (I'll let you know ordered from Amazon Dorman store Monday). They also have matching Dorman permenant magnet lift motors.

In your case I would think you could do the same thing, get a Dremel or other power cutting tool and "choose" to cut the regulator arm and replace it.

So far the cost of a replacement regulator seems to be a little less than $50 and the cost of a replacement motor is about the same.

I also looked into replacing the Door Lock Accuator/Solenoid.. its in the lower corner. I carefully disengaged the nylon plastic clip (kind of universal and you can get them cheap from a supplier in California.. I posted the links in this forum regarding door clip sources)

The replacement Accuator/Solenoid was about $500 but found you can disassemble it and a Mabuchi DC motor RS-385 was inside and all corroded.. you can find them on the web Amazon/eBay for about $15 it has a gear set and a RC/DC model car shaped spindle gear on its shaft. A model car gear puller/press can also be found online for about $15.. I'll let you know how that works out.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Regulator arrived today from Amazon.

It looks remarkably similar to the OEM part. But its all shiney and coated in some type of sputtered or powdered metal surface and lubricatant.

The central Pivot looks heavier duty, the OEM Pivot looked kind of ill considered.

The one question I have is about the counter balance spring, it comes unattached to the regulator, which leaves me to believe it is either assembled after its placed in the door.. or it must be preassembled and tied down to prevent it from extending the arm and then released after the motor is attached while both pieces are inside the door.

I haven't a clue how you could safely remove it without cutting the regulator and "not" removing the motor at the same time still attached to the regulator to keep the counter balance spring from hurting you.

And I cannot imagine releasing the counter balance spring inside the door "before" the motor is installed to hold it in tension.. it just looks extremely dangerous.

I wish there were a good write up on this subject someplace, but in all of my searching.. everyone only tells you what [Not] to do.. and is careful to warn you about the counter balance spring, and to be very careful.

The Dorman counter balance spring also seems to be turned a different number of times compared to the spring on the OEM part.. but I am thinking that is because the one on the cut OEM part is still being held under tension by the dead motor.. so in tension its wound a different number of times.. which would change rapidly if that tension were "released".

The spring is just too formidible looking to even mess with.. its Huge.. as far as springs go.. like something to raise and lower the hood of a car or a garage door.. its really scary looking even covered in rust.

Its just a thought.

But "If" the motor had let me turn it so the OEM regulator had been collapsed by the weight of the window.

I think I "might" haver tried "tying" the regulator closed using massively large tie wraps.. very thick.. and then [maybe] have removed the motor first.. but that would have released the pressure on the spring and would certainly have been dangerous. Then the motor would have come out a lot easier separate from the regulator.. and finally the regulator [might] have been easier to disengage from the Glyde tracks.. but this is only a guess.

In my situation.. I am definitely thinking it was worth it.. for safety to cut the regulator arm and leave the motor attatched and remove both so I didn't risk messing with the counter balance spring.

To hold the Window up.. I went to Home Depot and bought a couple square "dowels" in the aisle with stair building stuff.. and put round pole covers from the aisle with door stops on the ends. I had measured the distance from the bottom of the inside of the door to the bottom of the window lift in the raised position.. it was about 26 1/2 inches. I then used those to prop up the Window in the up position. -- this after I had used painters tape from the inside of the window glass over the door frame and to the outside of the window glass to make sure it was not going to fall. -- the dowel prop was extra insurance and to keep it raised while I get parts.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Update!

After more research and reading over at the Cummins site about "one way" of removal and reinstalling.

I Think the proper way of removal and install is "supposed" to include removing the Triangular window piece adjacent to the main power window towards the front of the vehicle. (Its called the "Vent Wing" assembly and its attached at the bottom and top by bolts.)

This is the clearest picture I could find that demonstrates how it blocks shoving the regulator and motor back and forth. (It is a handle crank picture, but the motor just replaces the hand crank in a power window door.)

And I hope explains why it will also block you from easily removing the regulator assembly from the door once its disconnected from the tracks. Simply its too darned long, and you really can't push it forwards towards the engine very much because the door narrows and is actually shorter than the picture suggests in the front.. so movement is very restricted.

It almost "has to" come out nearly straight sideways with very little front to backwards movement. Removing the motor (or spring if you are that crazy and wreckless) really would not change the dimensions of the problem. The Vent Wing really needs to come off.



Some people have mentioned removing this [allows] removing the forward (towards the engine) Window Glyde rail so that the regulator and the motor can be smoothly moved in and out after the regulator has been collapsed so that it can be slid forwards to remove the upper two track wheels and pushed back (towards the tailgate) to remove the bottom track wheel of the regulator.

If you do not remove the Triangular window, then there is an issue with removing the regulator with the motor attached, which usually happens when the motor or the regulator are jammed or will not move. I can personally state that is true.

And [not knowing] what I was doing I did as they said other people did (which is the Hard Way) I flexed the forward (towards the engine) Windows Glyde rail just enough to roughly "pull" the regulator gear head with the large motor attached between it and the inner door panel. It works.. but its tough and you could damage something.. your hands and ego included.

With regards to the counter balance spring and threat to "human life" -- again, serious warnings from everyone who has done this.. mentions of leaks and lost blood.. really tough stuff to read and imagine.

The Universal "cure" or advice for the counter balance spring from Chrysler is once the regulator is out [Put it In a Vice!] before attempting to remove the motor bolts. (That would tend to suggest, never.. ever.. try removing the motor while its still in the door).

Dorman has a picture in their flyers for scissor regulator removal and install. And other people online have said the same.. position the regulator in a "collapsed" position.. or near so.. then [drill a 3/4 x 1/4-20] hole through one of the holes already in the regulator gear head through the plate it is mounted on. Then put a [bolt and nut] through and tighten them to secure the regulator gear together so that the spring cannot move the regulator.

Then install the regulator and bolt it to the door. Then install the motor and bolt it to the regulator. Then remove the temporary bolt installed to prevent the regulator spring from moving the window regulator arms.



I will have to try and document this from the position of being half way through the job.

The Original Poster stated his window was stuck in the [down] position, which should be closer to the "ideal" position in which you can pull the unbolted regulator and motor forwards (towards the engine) to disengage the upper two arms with wheels from the upper window track. Then push them back (towards the tailgate) to dis-engage the final bottom arm wheel from the bottom wheel track.

But the Original Poster is going to have the same issue I and many other people have when removing the assembly.

That forward (towards the engine) Window Glyde rail is going to restict motion and pin the regulator and motor against the inside of the inner door panel such that it can't be removed. -- Tip! -- There is a lower bolt in the door panel that stablizes the forward Window Glyde rail.. I removed that and was able to "barely" flex it enough to let a twisted regulator gear head and attached motor to squeak by.. but it was far from ideal.

Going back in.. I Think the regulator can be installed/positioned by itself as long as that extra bolt hole is drilled and the 3/4 x 1/4-20 bolt and nut are holding the arms together in a semicollapsed position.. they should be then re-engaged (the Window will have to be lowered far enough to let the wheels enter the Window attached wheel track) with the upper and lower tracks and the regulator bolted to the inner door panel. -- Then the motor can be brought in (and under the newly attached upper Window pane) around the backside of the forward (towards the engine) Windows Gylde rail and meshed with the regular teeth and bolted to it with new bolts and nuts. Chrysler said to face the bolts from the backside so the Nuts were attached from the inside door panel side (not sure why except that holding a nut is generally harder and more clumpsily likely to fall than bolt holding itself in the panels)

Once they are started and in place -- Remove the Extra Bolt and Nut .. Luke! so the regulator spring and arms can move freely.

Another tip from Cummins thread was not to tighten things down and don't forget to turn the key on before trying to use the window power switch to "jiggle things about" (power windows will not work if the key is not in the "On" position) so that the other bolt holes could be lined up and you could make sure nothing is binding.

If you can remove the Triangular window.. a lot of this detail and hassle can probably be avoided since it will be easy to slide in both (regulator and motor) already put together and bolt them down.

But don't forget..

-- Remove the Extra Bolt and Nut .. Luke! so the regulator spring and arms can move freely.

Looks like I'll be spending time this weekend at Home Depot to find a 3/4 x 1/4-20 Bolt and Nut and figuring out how to put this new flat coil spring on the regulator.. doesn't look easy.

There is one new Twist to all of this.

The Dorman replacement motor comes in two flavors, one for 1st trucks before 1990 1/2 year and after 1990 1/2 year. If you get the wrong part you will not be able to use the new motor on an old OEM regulator, the OEM metal part had a tiny "spindle hole" the motor gear had to fit in, the after 1990 1/2 motors did not have this extra spindle. So be aware they are different.

Also the newer motors are a lot smaller than the previous motors, and the gear box is made of tough black plastic not black painted aluminum.. that probably doesn't mean much to realiability.

The OEM gearbox while metal contained a worm and planetary gear set made of soft plastic which tended to grind up and turn to paste over time.. which is why these are projected for about 6-7 years duty cycle or life span.. they wear out.. because they wear out. Trying to break off ice on stuck windows in the dead of winter accelerated the "pastification" of the gears.. and slowly the windows churned up and down less and less forcibly.. essentially they took longer because some of the gear teeth were "gone" erroded away.. and you had to wait for what was left to turn around to the worm gear and "catch" again and move the window a little further.. until they were all reduced to "worm paste".

As for a smaller body.. that should make the motors "Easier" to get around the forward Window Glyde and the OEM motor seemed big mostly due to perhaps "weaker" magnet technology.. Niobium and other metals were Cobalt and other materials way back then.. so torque should be about the same.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Update. Update.

Found (in the factory service manual)

Body 23-25 page 891

Electric Window Regulator

Removal Steps:

1. remove trim panel
2. remove water vapor barrier
3. remove window stop and bracket
4. remove stereo speaker
5. lower glass to full down position
6. remove vent wing
7. use a drill to remove rivets holding regulator to door
8. disconnect regulator arm from all lift channels
9. remove regulator through access hole

Install Steps:

1. insert regulator through access hole
2. connect regulator arm to all lift channels
3. use 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to attach regulator to door
4. install vent wing
5. raise glass to full up position
6. install stereo speaker
7. install window stop and bracket
8. install water vapor barrier
9. install trim panel

in a different section it describes servicing the regulator and motor as a unit, outside the door, so I believe this means "do not" dissassemble inside the door

Power Windows

8S-4 page 403

Regulator and Motor

Removal Steps:

1. disconnect wire from motor
2. remove three rivets holding regulator to inner panel
3. maneuver assembly to disengage slider arm from lift channel

Bench steps:

1. remove regulator from door
[WARNING: Step 2 and 3 must be followed or Injury may result]
2. secure regulator in a vise to prevent sector gear from rotating
3. remove counter balance spring (danger! under high tension)
4. remove three screws holding motor to regulator
5. remove motor from regulator
6. inspect gear for missing teeth, free rotating motion; test motor
7. reinstall motor
8. reinstall counter balance spring

NOTE: I have come full circle in my thinking and explorations. I did things the "hard way" like everyone else, but kept looking for the safer and correct way of doing things.

-- there had to be an easier way

-- it turned out Chrysler/Dodge was thinking you just had to remove the Stereo Speaker, Stop bracket and "most" importantly the "Vent Wing" window to make room for removing the regulator and motor (with the counter balance spring still attached) as a "single" unit

The Window guides are the black "vertical" rails from top to bottom.

The Window guide toward the forward (in the direction of the engine) is directly below and [part of] the Vent Wing



removing the motor "has to be done" outside the door on a bench "in a vise" to protect yourself !!

in my case I chose to destroy the regulator, to protect myself and clear the way for new parts

assembling the new parts must also take place outside the door and on a bench "in a vise" to protect yourself !! -- to get that regulator arm assembly [out], you have to either cut it like I did, or collapse it which places enormous tension on that Spring its designed to "force" that arm up to fight the force of gravity on that window trying to pull down its weight -- it "counter balances" the force of gravity so that the motor does not have to work so hard.

but your job is to get the regulator [out] of the door -- so rather "dangerously" you have to collapse the arm and its pivot arm into a slim single flat rod.. which the Spring will be trying to force apart -- and the Sector Gear with all those holes and [SHARP SHEARING] pieces which could catch anything that happens to get in the way.

Not to mention if that motor were to be removed and the tension suddenly released [EXPLOSIVELY] it could go flying off like a very heavy, very fast moving object in any direction.

I will have to remove the Stereo Speaker, Stop bracket and "Vent Wing" window before putting it all back together to make room for reattaching to the lift channels and attaching the regulator to the door.

The Lift channels are the horizonal silver things.

The two at the top are directly attached to the window glass.



The one midway down the door is attached to the inner door metal.



To get "wheels" on the Lift arms of the regulator back in the "lift channels" you have to work on the bottom "wheel" first, then lower the window and work on the top "wheels".

The Wheels actually "pivot" themselves on rounded ball bearing like axels, so they don't have to remain in a plane parallel to the flat surfaces of the arms themselves all the time.

That Spring will be under [tension] again when you insert it in the door, so however you choose to bind it, or hold it closed, do so safely.. do not [Trust] the motor itself to hold it closed, it is designed not to hold the regulator closed in a collapsed position, it could fly apart at any time.

So far all of the reading I have done has not unearthed Chrysler/Dodges assembly method, other than mentioning "vises" and "bench". Some of Dormans papers online suggest drill a hole [in the regulator and its attached backplane] and insert a bolt to hold it close and keep it from rotating until you have everything in place and can stand clear while removing the bolt. You should "Expect" the spring to have the ability to raise the window when released.. even if it should not unless the motor assists it.

The only problem is.. as you can see from the pictures, you won't have any access to remove a bolt from the outside or inner door side.. or will have very little.

All I can think is that from the bottom.. underneath that mid-way Lift channel.. the regulator arms should never travel.. when completely bolted down.. so something could reach up and around to release a bolt. I'd like to find a tool for that.. and not be in the line of fire when the tension is released.

-- with regards to positioning the motor on the Sector gear. I was originally worried about synching up its range of motion and the gear travel position. Until I read that the motor is a constant velocity dc motor that simply stops when it encounters too much resistance. That would make sense. Inside the door lock solenoid (which is actually an accuator) is a hair dryer style DC motor with gears. In series is a glass ampule or envelope with what looks like a bi-metallic switch. If too much current flows through it.. I would assume it would heat up and break contact.. until it is cooled down and re-established contact.. so its like a self-resetting "thermal limiter".

A motor is designed to convert current into motion, but when it hits resistance it becomes a really good heating coil and heats up.. unless it has some type of thermal limiter too.. so without including a range of motion sensor or DC servo type of arrangement.. it looks like 1989 technology used simple heated breaker technology to make and break contact when the limits of motion where reached. The glass envelope was no doubt to contain a vacuum so like a light bulb the switch contacts were insulated and sparks could not fly to create a fire hazard.

-- that means when the window hit the top of the frame of the door it would stop, heat up the bi-metallic switch or breaker and release the circuit, and when the window hit the bumper stop at the bottom of the door it would do the same.
 
#10 ·
Well I tried the tapping on the motor method Moparite suggested. No help. The Motor is junk, as I suspected.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I almost have all the parts for the regulator, motor and door lock rebuild. If they all come in before next weekend. Then I'll make a YouTube video while I'm reinstalling it. I also have the passenger side to do, so I'll need to take that out and I'll video it.

I think its just a matter of taking enough apart.

The factory manual makes a lot of sense after you see everything. The speaker and window stop bracket have to be removed to give your arm room to work from underneath the lowest point the regulator arm can move. And the vent window has to be removed so the forward window guide can be removed.. that keeps that window guide from "pinning" or holding the motor and regulator against the inner door. There is really not enough space to pull the motor between the window guide and the inner door, its too thick. -- and once the window guide is removed, you "can" shove the arm wheels back and forth to get them in and out of the lift channels. -- it all makes sense, its just hard to see and your worried about all the dust, rust and sharp edges.

I would be most worried about the spring though and the temptation to take that motor off the regulator -- that is dangerous. -- if the regulator is rusted up such that it won't move at all, or the motor keeps it from moving, do what I did, get a dremel or metal saw and cut the regulator arm in two then remove it, and replace the whole regulator.

Keep in mind you should bring the regulator and motor out still attached to one another -- that is the factory way, that is the safest way -- "anything" else could hurt you badly.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I got all the parts in.. the only [iffy] thing then is the weather next Saturday.

Rebuilding the door lock motor was a hassel. Not taking it apart, but getting the right dc motor turned out real important. The RS-385 has some special plastic channel indentations in it that Chrysler/Dodge used in the case for it to grip and hold it still while it torqued the gear assembly, which itself very complex. Sealed it all back up with black rtv and rivets.. i hate rivets, they are so hard to work with and imprecise.. I guess you need a lot of experience with them.. I should have taken the time to get small nuts and bolts and by-passed the rivets. -- I won't post pics of the door lock rebuild.. probably not the way most people would go.. I have read that people prefer to use the new universal solenoids.. I just wanted to go old school.. if I could. I hope it works.

The inner door trim had heat/uv sunlight damage on the upper rim near where the door trim goes.. white powdery plastic surface.. almost like sandpaper. I saw on YouTube where they took a heat gun and melted the surface to re-wet it, some commentators said it brought binder to the surface and bound everything back together -- well it [does] work -- kind of, the fine vein like patterns in the vinyl were gone of course.. but the re-flowed smooth surface was darker like the surrounding plastic and smooth to the touch.. which was "better" than you would expect if you painted it.. or coated it in some clear plastic. I was quite happy with the results. -- I really like that its the same plastic material as the surrounding surface and door panel. I learned my way by working on the bottom edge first.. so I learned how not to liquify it too much.. but be careful.. down there are some fuzzy carpet panels.. which if the heat gets to them "singe" .. I didn't do too much, probably not noticable.. but if I had thought about it and been more cautious.. wouldn't have that carpet singe a tiny tiny bit.

Tip! -- be sure the heat gun is on [low speed] when it melts that surface you don't want it to smooth away any veiny grain pattern you still have, in my case the errosion had already taken away most of the grain.. so the re-flowed surface was smooth anyway.. but on the other areas when I got scratches out.. I kept low speed and the veiny texture remained after re-flowing.

(Be careful though!) commentators said "not all" plastics will behave the same way.. some will shrink, some will just burn.. its this special "vinyl" hard plastic thats used on a lot of pieces that you can re-wet, its rather special plastic, so don't think you can do the same everywhere.. test, test, test first. But the results are remarkable... not perfect.. but far better than you'd think. -- I also don't think a nornal hair dryer would work, the temp the heat gun had to put out was a "lot more" than your average 125 degree day in Texas. I don't know what it was.. but you got to keep it moving or it will dig a melted hole in your door panel.

The heat gun method was also superb at hiding or melting down the white scratch-like dings in the vinyl plastic that happen when a sharp object or a boot heel scraps the vinyl plastic.. you know those frayed white plastic scratches that look like someone took a sharp pencil and scratched up some wax? -- The effect is the entire door now looks a uniform dark plastic color like it did when it was first made. -- just really don't get carried away and try this on [any] plastic part, it won't work on most plastic pieces.. especially [not] on ABS or styrene plastics.. they will just collpase, shrink or burn.

For vapor barrier replacement I went to walmart and got a semi-clear heavy duty shower curtain, its a lot of plastic and it is supposed to be mildew resistant.. its about 6 mil and lot cheaper than buying a roll of something, and it should be in a lot better condition than the vapor barrier that came off. I know some people take the opportunity to "sound proof" and or rewrap the wires in the door.. or change the speaker and lots of other things.. but I'm trying to keep this task simple.. I have a lot of other little things to get to first.

Had another thought about the Sector gear in the regulator.

Those guillotine slots that are cut in the Sector gear could be used with a couple wide washers and a bolt and nut. -- I am thinking of holding it fast, turning the Sector gear to get it in the tensioned and lower position.. then jam a bolt in one of the Sector gear slots with a washer around the head.. then another washer on the end and a bolt to [pinch] hold the regulator in a position (like a cheap portable vise) I think this could be used to get the arm wheels back into the Lift sliders. -- This has a lot of merit since the Sector gear slots are visible from outside the door panel, and the nut and bolt can be removed after everything is mounted.

The thing is I think the lower arm has to be put back into the lower Lift slider first.. then the upper arms have to be low enough so you can see them through the door when you lower the Window with the Lift tracks attached to it where you can see them and maneuver the wheels into the sliders. -- Doing it blind while the window is fully up, would be.. difficult. -- There is a chance the window could fall while trying this.. so I'll put a foam cushion or something in the bottom of the door to stop it from slamming hard enough to break the glass.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Well fighting flood water and with angry skies overhead.. I finally did install the Windows Regulator and Motor and it works.

I learned a Huge amount installing it.

Not the least of which was you would be insane [Not] to remove the Window stop bracket, speaker, air flap contraption -- as well as the Wing Vent window.

Installing the regulator and motor after all that removal was "E-a-s-y" but what I learned was putting it all back together was really a lot harder. And I finally know why window installers and window regulator shop mechanics wear tough gloves.. no matter how inconvenient.

I'll try to put together the video soon.. but really there isn't a lot to putting the regulator inside the door and bolting it in.. it was simply collapse the arms, aim for the door handle, shove, push and reposition. Get one bolt and nut in place and that was it.

Getting the arms back in the tracks was a pain.

The lower one facing the inner door is fairly easy.. but then [You Have to] wire it up and actuate the motor to move the upper arm tips into their lower position where you can see the window tracks (which you cannot see if you do not remove the window stop). Then you have to coerce and get the arm tips in the window tracks, and start reinstalling the Wing Vent window.. its all loosy goosey and prone to droppage.. and with this much removed, there is a ton of space in which to slip and let things drop. -- I could easily see where some type of guides or jigs would be very helpful.. but you can do it with two arms and two hands.. but those window channels are [sharp] and there is no good reason for them to be sharp.. they should really have a rubber safety bumper to prevent you cutting your hand on them on the right hand end.. all the reattachment action goes on at the Left hand ends.

It took me about 5 hours because I didn't know what I was doing -- but I took lots of pics.

The rivets in the window stop are not common, they were made of steel kryptonite adamantium alloy or something and Huge.. on the backside inside the door, they are trifold curled rolled steel. I had to come up with a technique to remove them. Those rivets look like they could survive almost anything.

The trick to the Wing Vent window came down to "how old is your weather stripping" more than anything. You have to pull down or remove.. or (in my case) Chip away the weatherstripping trim over the main window to give the Wing Vent frame room to pull back and be shoved down slightly.. the rubber seal around the Wing Vent flexes just barely and that lets you pull the angled pointy top out of the door frame.. and that is somewhat intutitve. (There is a single long philips head screw in the 45 degree angle door frame that holds it to the frame you have to remove -- I should have mentioned that first).

Anyhoo.. I'll get to the longer description soon.

Former experience with this procedure would count for a lot.. new trucks don't have a Wing Vent window and "have it real easy". I don't think there will be a lot people with experience with this.

.. and oh yeah.. the door lock rebuild worked as well.. pretty anticlimatic.. the switch on the driver side didn't fire it.. but the switch on the passenger side fires them both.. so (yeah) will have to troubleshoot that switch or circuit, but the rebuild worked.. so nixed the whole idea of a $500 part.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top