Cyl 2 was covered in black soot. All plugs except 5 and 7 had that black soot coating. I'm pretty sure i didnt move the distributor, unless the hold down clamp is loose i dont think that happened.
There's another blocked coolant passage beside paired intake ports 7,5.
... Injectors ohm tested ok: but
are all 8 injectors known/proven to be good and correct? (some have pulled their hair out and gone half near crazy over E-Bay injectors!!)
I reset the pcm by unhooking the battery. Whats the hard dump?
As Moparite said, do the hard dump; it's below the blue line.
... When reconnecting positive cable, unsure exactly what it means when it says: "Careful, no sparks now"; safety connotation aside, I'm assuming it may also mean cable should only contact batt post once and remains in contact (circuit to PCM etc is completed and remains completed, not broken); in other words, lineup cable with post and then "stuff it on post in one stroke" to avoid breaking circuit (sparks). ... Hope I'm not overthinking this.
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From a past DT thread...
You can do what is often called a "hard dump".
We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".
First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.
Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.
Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.
Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)
Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
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The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.
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