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post #1 of 12 Old 05-18-2006, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
Dman98
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Rear main seal repair instructions

I did some research, put it all together and came up with the attached procedure. It was wriiten using ms word, if you don't have ms word I'll post it here. If anyone has any other insight, let me know, I plan on starting the job next weekend.
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File Type: doc Procedure for oil pan gasket.doc (53.0 KB, 118 views)

1998 Durango 5.2/318
44RE-Ft 4x4
9.25/3.92 Open Differential
Chilipepper
88,250 miles

Mods/Repairs
Borla Stainless Steel catback exhaust, Bilsteins, TPS to .76, Plenum cover(Hughes engine), 180 thermostat (becool stat), Upper/lower ball joints(moog), Front painted brush bar(manik), Rear painted bumper guard(waag), Ram tail light covers (painted), Front corner light covers(Painted), Ventvisors, Roof racks removed, Grill/bumper inserts(grille-tech black), installed overhead console, signal mirrors w/brake module(muth), K&N GenII FIPK, Oil pan drain valve (summit), Ebc Slotted rotors, Duralast Ceramic pads, Shorty antenna, MSD 8.5mm wires, (summit), GTS aerowing(Autocustomizers.com), Royal purple oil, Royal purple differential fluid, Converted to lighted interior sun visors, Upgraded tires from 31x10.50x15 to 275/70/16 Goodyear fortera, PPH Headers w/Y-pipe, Optima yellow top(D31A), Super duty calipers(EGR), Stainless steel brake lines(EGR), 200 amp alternator(MCR), Viper electric fan conversion, Pcm(B&G custom flash), Valvoline atf+4, Pitman arm, idler arm, inner/outer tie rods(all replaced using moog parts), Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, 6000k Hid Bixenon headlights and 6000k fog lights, Led reverse light license plate frame, Auto dimming mirror
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-18-2006, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Procedure for oil pan gasket/rear main seal replacement


Front axle removal


1) Remove skid plate
2) Remove skid plate crossmember
3) Mark CV joint and axle flange
4) Separate axle shafts from axle flange
5) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke
6) Remove propeller shaft
7) Remove axle vent tube
8) Support differential with floor jack
9) Remove bolts holding axle to engine
10) Lower jack and remove axle from vehicle


Oil pan and main seal removal


1) Remove dipstick
2) Drain oil
3) Remove engine to transmission support brackets
4) Remove transmission inspection cover
5) Remove oil pan and gasket
6) Remove oil pump from main bearing cap
• Have bucket handy to catch oil in pump during removal
7) Remove rear main bearing cap and discard lower seal
8) Loosen two bearing caps forward of the rear main bearing
9) Remove upper seal with removal tool



Notes:
• Remove negative battery cable
• Place cardboard under vehicle to protect cement from dripping oil
• Clean all mating surfaces of old gasket and sealer
• Make pan installation dowels with 1 1/2- 5/16 bolts cut off bolt
heads and make a slot for screw driver removal







Procedure for oil pan gasket/rear main seal replacement




Rear main seal and oil pan installation


1) Lightly oil new upper seal with engine oil
2) Rotate seal into block with white facing rear of engine
3) Lightly oil new lower seal with engine oil
4) Install seal in lower main bearing cap white facing rear
5) Apply locktite 515 to each side of main bearing cap(don’t allow
locktite to contact rubber seal)
6) Align bearing using slot alignment dowel and cap bolts
7) Install main bearing cap w/cleaned and oiled cap bolts
• alternately tighten bolts to 85ft lbs, starting with the two main
bolts loosened during removal and working toward the rear main cap
• Tighten all main caps to 85 ft lbs working from to rear
8) Install oil pump torque to 30ft lbs
• Prime pump with oil prior to installation
9) Apply black RTV sealant to the bearing to cap block joints
10) Install the dowels (2) at each end of the block
11) Slide gasket over dowels onto block
12) Install oil pan and torque bolts to 215in lbs

Front axle installation


1) Raise axle into position, loosely install the bolts and nut to the
brackets
2) Tighten all bolt finger tight, then to the following
• Axle to engine mount bolts 75ft lbs
• Axle to engine to transmission 40ft lbs
3) Install axle vent tube
4) Align reference marks on propeller shaft and pinion yoke, install
5) Align reference marks on C/V joints and axle flanges, install
6) Install skid plate crossmember support and skid plate
7) Make sure vehicle is level and check differential fluid
• Add fluid if necessary
8) Remove all supports and lower vehicle
9) Replace filter, add oil, start engine and check for leaks.

1998 Durango 5.2/318
44RE-Ft 4x4
9.25/3.92 Open Differential
Chilipepper
88,250 miles

Mods/Repairs
Borla Stainless Steel catback exhaust, Bilsteins, TPS to .76, Plenum cover(Hughes engine), 180 thermostat (becool stat), Upper/lower ball joints(moog), Front painted brush bar(manik), Rear painted bumper guard(waag), Ram tail light covers (painted), Front corner light covers(Painted), Ventvisors, Roof racks removed, Grill/bumper inserts(grille-tech black), installed overhead console, signal mirrors w/brake module(muth), K&N GenII FIPK, Oil pan drain valve (summit), Ebc Slotted rotors, Duralast Ceramic pads, Shorty antenna, MSD 8.5mm wires, (summit), GTS aerowing(Autocustomizers.com), Royal purple oil, Royal purple differential fluid, Converted to lighted interior sun visors, Upgraded tires from 31x10.50x15 to 275/70/16 Goodyear fortera, PPH Headers w/Y-pipe, Optima yellow top(D31A), Super duty calipers(EGR), Stainless steel brake lines(EGR), 200 amp alternator(MCR), Viper electric fan conversion, Pcm(B&G custom flash), Valvoline atf+4, Pitman arm, idler arm, inner/outer tie rods(all replaced using moog parts), Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, 6000k Hid Bixenon headlights and 6000k fog lights, Led reverse light license plate frame, Auto dimming mirror
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-31-2007, 10:25 AM
kingstretch
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I'm digging this fairly far out of the past. I have what I think is probably going to turn out to be a rear main seal leak. However, it could turn out to be the oil pan gasket as yours was. What's happening is I'm getting oil collecting near the drain plug in the oil pain. The oil appears to be coming from between the oil pan and the transmission. Does that sound similar to the conditions you had before the replacement? What are the ramifications of just leaving it "as-is"?

In any case - after looking through your instructions, this doesn't appear to be a job for the faint of heart - on a scale of 1 to 10, how would you rate the difficulty of it all.

Thanks!

2000 Dodge Durango R/T - PLATINUM
> 5.9L Magnum V8 - 360 c.i.
> Autolite 3923 Plugs
> Eurodezigns 9007's and 893's (both blue)
> Weathertech Iniline Vent Visors (all around)
> Homebrew CAI w/ K&N RU-2990
> Relocated IAT sensor to CAI tube
> Aftermarket Alarm & Remote Start
> Hawk HPS Pads
> Roto-Tech Drilled/Slotted Rotors
> B&M Super Cooler for Transmission
> Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's (P275/60/R17)
> New Front Bumper (Upper & Lower)
> New A/C Condenser
> Bad Parts Replaced: Valve Body (2x), TPS, Drivers Door Lock (2x), Upper Ball Joints, Serpentine Belt (2x)
UPCOMING WORK
> Plenum Pan & Gasket
> Rear Main Seal and/or Oil Pan Gasket
> Lower Ball Joints
> Possibly Tie Rod Ends

2007 Dodge Caliber SXT - Black w/ Gray Leather
> 2.0L 4 cylinder
> Existing 12V Outlet changed to always hot
> Added new switched 12V Outlet under dash
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-31-2007, 01:48 PM
Walt
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How I would handle the repair:

1- call mechanic
2- bring truck to mechanic
3- Bend over when handed the bill

Pretty easy, huh?

Black 2000 Durango SLT+
Loaded - gray leather interior
360cu - AWD - 183,000 miles
Owned since January 2003
PAID FOR!!

Factory Tow Package, Limited Slip, Factory Running Boards (removed), Clear Corner Lenses, Cold Air Intake, Monroe sensa-traks, Firestone Destination AT's (2nd set), Moog ball joints, Wheel skins, Slotted-Drilled rotors

Items fixed/replaced: ball joints (twice), PCM, 2 lock actuators, battery, heater core (3 times!), HVAC vent door, wheel bearings (twice), all speakers, rebuilt transmission, starter, intake gasket, rear drums, u-joints, front 1/2 axle, Intermediate steering shaft, Speed sensor, Pinion seal, Water Pump, coil, fuel pump, New rear differential, CV Joint, Radiator, Throttle Position Sensor
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-31-2007, 02:30 PM
kingstretch
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You forgot two steps:

4- Figure out what is no longer working correctly after mechanic is finished.
5- Figure out how to do the job correctly after the mechanic botches part, if not all of the job.

2000 Dodge Durango R/T - PLATINUM
> 5.9L Magnum V8 - 360 c.i.
> Autolite 3923 Plugs
> Eurodezigns 9007's and 893's (both blue)
> Weathertech Iniline Vent Visors (all around)
> Homebrew CAI w/ K&N RU-2990
> Relocated IAT sensor to CAI tube
> Aftermarket Alarm & Remote Start
> Hawk HPS Pads
> Roto-Tech Drilled/Slotted Rotors
> B&M Super Cooler for Transmission
> Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's (P275/60/R17)
> New Front Bumper (Upper & Lower)
> New A/C Condenser
> Bad Parts Replaced: Valve Body (2x), TPS, Drivers Door Lock (2x), Upper Ball Joints, Serpentine Belt (2x)
UPCOMING WORK
> Plenum Pan & Gasket
> Rear Main Seal and/or Oil Pan Gasket
> Lower Ball Joints
> Possibly Tie Rod Ends

2007 Dodge Caliber SXT - Black w/ Gray Leather
> 2.0L 4 cylinder
> Existing 12V Outlet changed to always hot
> Added new switched 12V Outlet under dash
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post #6 of 12 Old 02-02-2007, 07:28 AM
gramol
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i might take offense to that. SOME mechanics may be that way

2000 dodge durango,5.9 L,4wd,cold air intake,clear corners,mechanic from canada(spend my days diagnosing and finding broken wires/bad modules),onboard laptop loaded with mitchell, alldata,autoenginuity among others
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post #7 of 12 Old 02-02-2007, 11:40 AM
kingstretch
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Yea - it's a vast generalization. I'm 100% sure not every mechanic is an idiot. The good ones seem to be hard to come by though.

2000 Dodge Durango R/T - PLATINUM
> 5.9L Magnum V8 - 360 c.i.
> Autolite 3923 Plugs
> Eurodezigns 9007's and 893's (both blue)
> Weathertech Iniline Vent Visors (all around)
> Homebrew CAI w/ K&N RU-2990
> Relocated IAT sensor to CAI tube
> Aftermarket Alarm & Remote Start
> Hawk HPS Pads
> Roto-Tech Drilled/Slotted Rotors
> B&M Super Cooler for Transmission
> Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's (P275/60/R17)
> New Front Bumper (Upper & Lower)
> New A/C Condenser
> Bad Parts Replaced: Valve Body (2x), TPS, Drivers Door Lock (2x), Upper Ball Joints, Serpentine Belt (2x)
UPCOMING WORK
> Plenum Pan & Gasket
> Rear Main Seal and/or Oil Pan Gasket
> Lower Ball Joints
> Possibly Tie Rod Ends

2007 Dodge Caliber SXT - Black w/ Gray Leather
> 2.0L 4 cylinder
> Existing 12V Outlet changed to always hot
> Added new switched 12V Outlet under dash
kingstretch is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 02-02-2007, 10:36 PM
!05RAM05!
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in your instructions, you forgot to mention remove engine mounts from motor. i did this job a month ago, and the only way your gettin that pan out with those brackets the front diff bolts to, is to remove the engine mounts. thats how those brackets are attached.

New: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 QCSB 4x4 Hemi Laramie Bright Silver
Flowmaster SI/DO 40 Series. Superchips 3865 - 91 Tune, 2/4 drop, More to come............

::GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN::2005 Dodge Ram 1500 QCSB 4x4 Hemi Sport Black
5.5" Rough Country Lift, Dick Cepek DC2 20x9, 325/60R20 Nitto Terra Grappler's, Superchips 3865 - 91 Tune, Extang Tonneau Cover, K&N Cold Air Intake, Bosch Platinum 4 plugs, Magnaflow Y-Pipe, SI/DO Flowmaster Original 40 Series, Synthetic Everything, 7000K Headlights, Foglights and Hellas..

1998 Dodge Durango SLT 4x4 Black
Hypertech 87 Tune, K&N Cold Air Intake, Bosch Platinum 4 plugs, Bosch 8.5mm Wires. Ported Throttle Body, SI/DO Flowmaster Original 40 Series Muffler, Headman Headers, 3" PA BL, 2" T/S Lift, 33x12.50R15 Firestone Destination M/T's, 15x8 Eagle Alloy Wheels.

BTC Member 211 - Steel Reserve
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post #9 of 12 Old 02-03-2007, 07:53 AM
six pak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gramol
i might take offense to that. SOME mechanics may be that way
SOME mechanics spend too much time learning the TRICKS of the trade instead of LEARNING THE TRADE. (ASE cert over 25 years)
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post #10 of 12 Old 02-05-2007, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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It's a big job, not for the lazy or the person who get easily frustrated. Micash20 you have a point, But I only had to remove the driver's side mount on my 98.

1998 Durango 5.2/318
44RE-Ft 4x4
9.25/3.92 Open Differential
Chilipepper
88,250 miles

Mods/Repairs
Borla Stainless Steel catback exhaust, Bilsteins, TPS to .76, Plenum cover(Hughes engine), 180 thermostat (becool stat), Upper/lower ball joints(moog), Front painted brush bar(manik), Rear painted bumper guard(waag), Ram tail light covers (painted), Front corner light covers(Painted), Ventvisors, Roof racks removed, Grill/bumper inserts(grille-tech black), installed overhead console, signal mirrors w/brake module(muth), K&N GenII FIPK, Oil pan drain valve (summit), Ebc Slotted rotors, Duralast Ceramic pads, Shorty antenna, MSD 8.5mm wires, (summit), GTS aerowing(Autocustomizers.com), Royal purple oil, Royal purple differential fluid, Converted to lighted interior sun visors, Upgraded tires from 31x10.50x15 to 275/70/16 Goodyear fortera, PPH Headers w/Y-pipe, Optima yellow top(D31A), Super duty calipers(EGR), Stainless steel brake lines(EGR), 200 amp alternator(MCR), Viper electric fan conversion, Pcm(B&G custom flash), Valvoline atf+4, Pitman arm, idler arm, inner/outer tie rods(all replaced using moog parts), Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, 6000k Hid Bixenon headlights and 6000k fog lights, Led reverse light license plate frame, Auto dimming mirror
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post #11 of 12 Old 02-06-2007, 07:33 AM
kingstretch
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I don't necessarily get easily frustrated. I'm one to take my time and be sure everything gets done the right way - which unfortunately usually takes a long time. I'm just a little worried that I tear into it and can't get it done in the time frame I need it to be done in. This would definitely be the largest project I've taken on with the Durango. At least it isn't a pressing issue - it's a fairly slow leak. I have plenty of time to plan.

2000 Dodge Durango R/T - PLATINUM
> 5.9L Magnum V8 - 360 c.i.
> Autolite 3923 Plugs
> Eurodezigns 9007's and 893's (both blue)
> Weathertech Iniline Vent Visors (all around)
> Homebrew CAI w/ K&N RU-2990
> Relocated IAT sensor to CAI tube
> Aftermarket Alarm & Remote Start
> Hawk HPS Pads
> Roto-Tech Drilled/Slotted Rotors
> B&M Super Cooler for Transmission
> Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's (P275/60/R17)
> New Front Bumper (Upper & Lower)
> New A/C Condenser
> Bad Parts Replaced: Valve Body (2x), TPS, Drivers Door Lock (2x), Upper Ball Joints, Serpentine Belt (2x)
UPCOMING WORK
> Plenum Pan & Gasket
> Rear Main Seal and/or Oil Pan Gasket
> Lower Ball Joints
> Possibly Tie Rod Ends

2007 Dodge Caliber SXT - Black w/ Gray Leather
> 2.0L 4 cylinder
> Existing 12V Outlet changed to always hot
> Added new switched 12V Outlet under dash
kingstretch is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 02-06-2007, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
Dman98
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I also take my time, since it's your first time give yourself a day. Having the proper tools is the key to success, make sure you have everything you need before you start.

1998 Durango 5.2/318
44RE-Ft 4x4
9.25/3.92 Open Differential
Chilipepper
88,250 miles

Mods/Repairs
Borla Stainless Steel catback exhaust, Bilsteins, TPS to .76, Plenum cover(Hughes engine), 180 thermostat (becool stat), Upper/lower ball joints(moog), Front painted brush bar(manik), Rear painted bumper guard(waag), Ram tail light covers (painted), Front corner light covers(Painted), Ventvisors, Roof racks removed, Grill/bumper inserts(grille-tech black), installed overhead console, signal mirrors w/brake module(muth), K&N GenII FIPK, Oil pan drain valve (summit), Ebc Slotted rotors, Duralast Ceramic pads, Shorty antenna, MSD 8.5mm wires, (summit), GTS aerowing(Autocustomizers.com), Royal purple oil, Royal purple differential fluid, Converted to lighted interior sun visors, Upgraded tires from 31x10.50x15 to 275/70/16 Goodyear fortera, PPH Headers w/Y-pipe, Optima yellow top(D31A), Super duty calipers(EGR), Stainless steel brake lines(EGR), 200 amp alternator(MCR), Viper electric fan conversion, Pcm(B&G custom flash), Valvoline atf+4, Pitman arm, idler arm, inner/outer tie rods(all replaced using moog parts), Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, 6000k Hid Bixenon headlights and 6000k fog lights, Led reverse light license plate frame, Auto dimming mirror
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