Here we go again...
I have experienced a recurring electrical problem (charging, more specifically) with my 1977 D100 Adventurer *Mild rebuilt 360 / stock electrical system *no conversions or otherwise. Originally, the issue seemed to be an undercharge due to a faulty voltage regulator. So, I replaced it and everything seemed to work just fine. 13.9 at idle (alternator) 14.6 running around.
Several weeks later I was driving home from work when my ammeter totally pegged out, and the headlights burned up. That same night, I replaced yet another voltage regulator, I replaced the alternator, ballast resistor and my battery.
Several weeks later... I was driving down the way and I smelled that distinct electrical stink that I dread. I stopped immediately and put my meter on the alternator- 30.2v! So, I replaced yet another alternator, voltage regulator, ballast, ignition switch and relay.
I was so tired of this that I decided to completely re-wire EVERYTHING from the dash to the headlights. After this, smooth sailing was mine. This lasted for two months and now, after parking for 30 minutes yesterday evening... my battery was dead. I jumped it and checked my alternator again 11.3 / max 12.2.
What in the actual HELL is going on here?! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Abe
(Oh yeah, P.S. New Chrysler orange box / spark control / ignition module as well~ bleh.)
Very cool, I know about ammeter bypassing- but this was a great read. Thank you. I'll be digging into this mess tomorrow and will report any *new findings if any. I've re-wired virtually every last inch of the electrical harness in this truck since I purchased it. Building a solid, dependable 350-375 HP was the easy part. Uncovering all of the previous owner's devilish electrical practices has truly been an eye-opening experience. I have wired several Dodge and Plymouth cars/trucks over the years, and yet THIS one has been border-line hilarious to dig through. The previous and original owner of the truck apparently required a power source for some kind of high amperage electrical devices on a trailer at some point... probably flood lights or something. The attempt made to "pull more juice" from the harness where he could tap in... man. You don't want to know. That and some of the "creative" ideas implemented at the fuse panel... really nutty stuff. Thanks again- Abe.
Charging system repaired. Yes, the ammeter was the cause. Granted, there were no visible burns or faulty contacts. I replaced the charge ware loop with 10 gauge wire (creating a solid conductor back through the bulkhead connector) and all is well. I'll install a volt meter soon, working in a diesel shop is hardly a luxury... 70+ hour weeks basically kills any time that I would scrape by for working on my own projects.
I had originally considered a bypass or replacement of the ammeter with a volt meter. If I hadn't been so infatuated with keeping it...
I have turned down the option to make a complete delco conversion as well. I have built and owned, only Mopars. I shy away from bow-tie parts in my rig. This is of course, because I'm just neurotic. I -love- my D series, W series, A and B body builds. This was one of those stubborn moments for me. However, it is repaired and running flawlessly.
Thanks very much for the responses. I've never been a member of an on-line forum. So, this has been new to me- but fun
I much prefer ammeter setups too, especially the "lively" ones the dodges always seemed to have; very handy for recharging and/or boosting stuff, especially in winter.
She's back and I've got a funny idea. I wonder if the dash regulator could cause an overcharging condition. After a complete re-wiring and all new electrical components I have managed an erratic charge (11.8v at idle / and as driving continues at higher rpm, 14.2 ~ 15v) this is really wild.
She's back and I've got a funny idea. I wonder if the dash regulator could cause an overcharging condition.
After a complete re-wiring and all new electrical components I have managed an erratic charge (11.8v at idle / and as driving continues at higher rpm, 14.2 ~ 15v) this is really wild.
I cleaned the firewall directly beneath the bolt holes, to bare sheet metal and I also have a 1" ground strap contacting the engine block directly fastened to the voltage regulator. I've got so many ground straps on this thing it's amazing.
Megunticook: Yes. It's been mind boggling... I have completely re-wired this truck, bypassed the ammeter and after the bypass- everything worked fine. No hiccups for several months, and now it's managing 15v as driving continues, and the four prong ballast resistor is red hot. I've checked ground and continuity over and over- I even lost my dwell controller over this (I'm sure the over charge burned my module up). This truck is fantastic other wise.
Battery? ... 14.2 to 15 is "kinda" good enough (try a different tester too be sure).
... 11.8 at idle: perhaps engines idling a bit too slow for some reason.
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