Hi,
I just recently purchased a 2000 Dodge ram 1500 4X4 std. cab long bed with the 5.2L (318ci) engine and the 4-speed with overdrive auto trans. and 3.55 rear gears, weights 7600 lbs
Is this trans called the 46RE for electronic shift?
I asked dodge about a shift kit for it, they said you cant do that because its computer controlled shifts and you would have to reprogram the computer, so i said reprogram it, they said it cant be done (at least, they wont do it).
What can i do, i hate how it shifts, if im hard on the throttle its half decent, but when lightly shifting at say 1/4 throttle, it shifts waaay too early, im never over 2000-2500 rpms, mostly always in the 1500 area.
When it does shift, it will release the gear its in, rev about 200 rpms and then shift into the next gear, all taking about 0.5 - 1.0 seconds, too much time.
another problem is when i use the overdrive off button, if im starting up a grade and its bogging down to 1500 rpms (right before the torque converter unlocks at 50mph) and i hit the button to shift out of overdrive, it will release from 4th gear and the lock up converter, the engine will rev about 300 rpms and then shift into 3rd, if i hit the button again at say 65mph, it will release 3rd and rev about 300 rpms and shift to 4th and right after the 4th gear shift (if my foot is less than half way down on the throttle) it will lock up the converter right as soon as 4th gear shift is complete.
what can i do? too much shifting.
i was comming home from work the other night and pulling up a mountain, not too steep, but enough that i was only going about 40-45mph, all it wanted to do was shift from 2nd to 3rd to 2nd to 3rd, every 5 feet i went it would shift, so i dropped it down into 2nd and hammered it up the mountain.
next, i want to install an auxilery cooler for the trans while still running it through the radiator for quick warmups during the winter.
If i buy an aftermarket cooler, say in the 20,000 GVW range (plan on towing a trailer often), how can i hook it up so it looks stock?
i dont want to cut my tranny lines and splice in rubber lines from the cooler and use screw clamps to hold it on.
3rd, anyone else running Amsoil ATF in their 2000-up ram?
Dont want to dump the stuff in and have the trans start slipping, but i would really like to run synthetic ATF.
oh, and i have a recent fluid change on the fluid.
for regular ATF+3 or +4 i usually change my auto tranny fluid every 9,000 miles.
You have to be a total idiot to think a measly 10 weight oil is going to last 125,000 miles worry free, let alone forever!
ESPECIALLY when its an overdrive transmission, the old school trannies like the 727 or the 949 (or whatever that lil weak POS was) didnt have overdrive, so they didnt have gears spinning at differant speeds, it was direct drive most of the time in 3rd gear.
now with overdrives, you have gears making loads of heat and its tearing up fluids. so yea, a lot of guys will cry and whine that they want their tranny fluid to last 125,000 miles or forever, but reality is that its still just at very thin oil, has a filter that clogs over time, still gets outside dirt in from the vents. $10 every 10,000 miles isnt that big of a deal!
i even see people whining about the 30,000 mile change, $10 every 30,000 miles, that means you spend what? $60 if you car makes it 180,000 miles?!
i mean, money is tight and all but COME ON!
if it looks dirty or passes the 10K mark, i change it.
last truck i had, the only life it knew was throttle to the floor and over 3,000 rpms 90% of its life, used mobil 10W40 for about 100,000 miles, switched to mobil 1 for the next 100,000 miles. darn thing STILL runs like it did the day i bought it, at 200K the injectors were getting plugged a bit, but still ran, had to run it harder to make the thing go though, never used a drop of oil, held the same pressure hot and cold, idle and reving, as it did the day i bought it.
Changed oil in that religiously every 3000 miles on the dino oil, 30000-5000 with the mobil 1 in it, purolator filters.
i mean, i pounded that thing hard too, 1/4 ton truck, for ranger, 2.9L at that!!, it was nothing for me to haul 2 tons of wet sand or steel on it, and here in PA, its all mountains!
i recently retired it for this ram because the rear end was starting to go out from all the hard pulls it had to do (untill i switched to synthetic in the rear, it used to heat up so bad that it would bog the truck down! went to synthetic gear oil, never had a problems since, bet it will still go another 100K) stripped almost all the syncros out of the 5-speed manual trans by racing people and hauling loads harshly, its pulled many 3/4 ton fords and 1-ton trucks up hills and mountains long distances, mostly in low range spinning around 3000 rpms or more, but did ti
Anywho, i want to make this ran last that long and work just as hard, should just save up and trade her in eventually on the cummins HO with front and rear Dana 90's and a 6-speed manual
mmmm pulllll..
Thanks for any info u can help me with.
I just recently purchased a 2000 Dodge ram 1500 4X4 std. cab long bed with the 5.2L (318ci) engine and the 4-speed with overdrive auto trans. and 3.55 rear gears, weights 7600 lbs
Is this trans called the 46RE for electronic shift?
I asked dodge about a shift kit for it, they said you cant do that because its computer controlled shifts and you would have to reprogram the computer, so i said reprogram it, they said it cant be done (at least, they wont do it).
What can i do, i hate how it shifts, if im hard on the throttle its half decent, but when lightly shifting at say 1/4 throttle, it shifts waaay too early, im never over 2000-2500 rpms, mostly always in the 1500 area.
When it does shift, it will release the gear its in, rev about 200 rpms and then shift into the next gear, all taking about 0.5 - 1.0 seconds, too much time.
another problem is when i use the overdrive off button, if im starting up a grade and its bogging down to 1500 rpms (right before the torque converter unlocks at 50mph) and i hit the button to shift out of overdrive, it will release from 4th gear and the lock up converter, the engine will rev about 300 rpms and then shift into 3rd, if i hit the button again at say 65mph, it will release 3rd and rev about 300 rpms and shift to 4th and right after the 4th gear shift (if my foot is less than half way down on the throttle) it will lock up the converter right as soon as 4th gear shift is complete.
what can i do? too much shifting.
i was comming home from work the other night and pulling up a mountain, not too steep, but enough that i was only going about 40-45mph, all it wanted to do was shift from 2nd to 3rd to 2nd to 3rd, every 5 feet i went it would shift, so i dropped it down into 2nd and hammered it up the mountain.
next, i want to install an auxilery cooler for the trans while still running it through the radiator for quick warmups during the winter.
If i buy an aftermarket cooler, say in the 20,000 GVW range (plan on towing a trailer often), how can i hook it up so it looks stock?
i dont want to cut my tranny lines and splice in rubber lines from the cooler and use screw clamps to hold it on.
3rd, anyone else running Amsoil ATF in their 2000-up ram?
Dont want to dump the stuff in and have the trans start slipping, but i would really like to run synthetic ATF.
oh, and i have a recent fluid change on the fluid.
for regular ATF+3 or +4 i usually change my auto tranny fluid every 9,000 miles.
You have to be a total idiot to think a measly 10 weight oil is going to last 125,000 miles worry free, let alone forever!
ESPECIALLY when its an overdrive transmission, the old school trannies like the 727 or the 949 (or whatever that lil weak POS was) didnt have overdrive, so they didnt have gears spinning at differant speeds, it was direct drive most of the time in 3rd gear.
now with overdrives, you have gears making loads of heat and its tearing up fluids. so yea, a lot of guys will cry and whine that they want their tranny fluid to last 125,000 miles or forever, but reality is that its still just at very thin oil, has a filter that clogs over time, still gets outside dirt in from the vents. $10 every 10,000 miles isnt that big of a deal!
i even see people whining about the 30,000 mile change, $10 every 30,000 miles, that means you spend what? $60 if you car makes it 180,000 miles?!
i mean, money is tight and all but COME ON!
if it looks dirty or passes the 10K mark, i change it.
last truck i had, the only life it knew was throttle to the floor and over 3,000 rpms 90% of its life, used mobil 10W40 for about 100,000 miles, switched to mobil 1 for the next 100,000 miles. darn thing STILL runs like it did the day i bought it, at 200K the injectors were getting plugged a bit, but still ran, had to run it harder to make the thing go though, never used a drop of oil, held the same pressure hot and cold, idle and reving, as it did the day i bought it.
Changed oil in that religiously every 3000 miles on the dino oil, 30000-5000 with the mobil 1 in it, purolator filters.
i mean, i pounded that thing hard too, 1/4 ton truck, for ranger, 2.9L at that!!, it was nothing for me to haul 2 tons of wet sand or steel on it, and here in PA, its all mountains!
i recently retired it for this ram because the rear end was starting to go out from all the hard pulls it had to do (untill i switched to synthetic in the rear, it used to heat up so bad that it would bog the truck down! went to synthetic gear oil, never had a problems since, bet it will still go another 100K) stripped almost all the syncros out of the 5-speed manual trans by racing people and hauling loads harshly, its pulled many 3/4 ton fords and 1-ton trucks up hills and mountains long distances, mostly in low range spinning around 3000 rpms or more, but did ti
Anywho, i want to make this ran last that long and work just as hard, should just save up and trade her in eventually on the cummins HO with front and rear Dana 90's and a 6-speed manual
mmmm pulllll..
Thanks for any info u can help me with.