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Questions for Those that Use Clay Bar Detailing Method

6K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  quadfreak 
#1 ·
My Ram is Maximum Steel Metallic. I've had it for a little over two weeks. I bought a clay bar kit (Meguiar's) yesterday for the first time. So far, I've done my hood and the top of the front fenders. I did notice it removed some contaminants, not much, but I could see it discolored the clay, and the surface of the paint was baby-butt smooth afterwards. I then followed up with Meguiars NXT 2.0 paint sealant. Nice reflections!

Questions:

To what extent do you use the clay bar?

1. Only on visible horizontal surfaces--the hood, the top of the fenders, top of front bumper (if painted).

2. All horizontal surfaces--hood, top of fenders, roof. top of bumpers (if painted)

3. Hood, top of fenders, top half of doors (I have the chrome accent strip bisecting my doors), and tailgate. Basically any surface that is going to be easily seen to reflect light.

4. All painted surfaces.

5. All painted surfaces and the windshield.

6. Every painted surface and the wheels.

7. Some other combination of surfaces. Please list.

Do you use the clay bar on flat black paint? (My truck doesn't have any, but was wondering...)

Any other comments or info is appreciated,
 
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#2 ·
I clay bar annually and wax quarterly. I clay/wax on ALL painted surfaces, including my painted wheels. Because my vehicle is garaged, my front fenders and my doors are what collect the most contaminants...and it shows more on white paint. I have a clear bra on my front bumper and hood. I lightly clay bar that as well. The end results are like you said, baby-butt smooth.

Use plenty of lubricant when clay barring. Meguiars makes great products. I take my hat off to you for taking care of your paint. Most guys just let it go. I quite enjoy babying my vehicles.
 
#3 ·
Every time I wax the truck and I also use it on the mirrors, glass, head and tail lights, and the lens.

:wax:
 
#4 ·
I clay once a year, and wax 2 times a year. With the clay, use it on the entire vehicle with the exception of glass surfaces. I always follow my clay with a coat of Meguiars M205 finishing polish on a DA Polisher to get that paint to really pop, and also helps remove any minor imperfections. Once that's done, a light coat of wax....wait a week, then 1 more light coat of wax...this will last about 6-7 months typically.
 
#6 ·
My only gripe with NXT 2.0 is it attracts dust like nothing else...crazy how much static it creates on the surface, but that's what you get with a synthetic wax.
 
#18 ·
I thought this was only me! just started using the NXT 2.0 this year and even sitting in the yard it looks like i ran down a dusty back road!

As far as clay baring, I do mine once a year in the spring, on all painted surfaces, and I wax usually every other month, sometimes every other wash during the summer time (and i usually wash once a week or so during the summer)
 
#7 ·
I used to use a clay bar however I recently tried a Nano towel. I think it works better than clay and it is easier to use and last a lot longer. I then check to see if there are any swirls or scratches that need to be corrected and if so I use Opti polish with my DA. After polish(if needed) I use Wolfgang Sealant 3.0. Wait 24 hours then top the Wolfgang with Collinite 845. After every wash I use Opti Spray Wax as a "Detailer". If you use a good sealant you can expect about 6 months protection, if you use wax only you can expect about 3-4 week protection.
Jay
 
#9 ·
I hear you on the 3-4 week protection. Seems like if I wash my truck the next few weeks it's beads off, than like today, I noticed no sheeting action whatsoever, so I used the wax today. How do you like the Wolfgang Sealant? Hard to remove? I was looking for a longer lasting wax myself.

This High Tech 2.- NXT wax is great for making the truck look wet, but.. yeah not very good in the longevity.
 
#8 ·
I am doing mine today! I noticed some sort of dots all over my windows and top surfaces. But generally I do all painted surfaces and then glass.

Just put on a coat of the Tech Wax 2.0 just now! :)

Your truck, all though you are 500 feet away from it it, looks good!
 

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#10 ·
I never completely understood why but the owner of the AAA Body Shop always told me "Never wax your vehicle!". He said the whole paint surface has to breath and the wax stops that from happening. He claimed that it was because of waxing that you get paint damage. Personally, I just do not know but the man had a '66 Split Window Corvette that was 100% original. His 'Vet was so nice, he won his class at almost even car show he entered. He has retired and closed the shop since I talked to him last and I'm not sure where he moved. I think he's in the Elephant Butte, New Mexico area but that's only a guess since that's what he told me while I was still in El Paso. He often would talk about spending the weekend at the 'lake' while working on the house up there.

:dunno:
 
#12 ·
I never completely understood why but the owner of the AAA Body Shop always told me "Never wax your vehicle!". He said the whole paint surface has to breath and the wax stops that from happening. He claimed that it was because of waxing that you get paint damage.:dunno:
That is pretty much a myth. The term "breath" is usually given out to owners who just received a fresh paint job and it is still outgassing. Yes, it is "dry" but it is not fully "cured" yet. Once the last of the solvents have escaped and the chemical cross-linking has occurred, then it is completely cured. Hence the warning to hold off on waxing until some time frame has passed. Factory paint? Baked on, wax your ass off as soon as you get it home.

I work in coatings and I have some materials that take 30 days to cure and some that take 24 hrs. (A bake can always speed that up as well) And I always have to warn the customer when they will be fully cured and have reached their optimum properties.
 
#11 ·
Wolfgang 3.0 sealant is some tough stuff. It's a little pricey but it will last a long long time, as you only use a very little of the product when you apply it. It will not wash off, it almost has to be taken off with a good polish with a buffer. You can also top it with wax if you like for additional protection and depth. It will last a good 6 months depending on how often you wash and if you leave your truck outside or garage it. I get my detailing supplies at autogeek--they have the Wolfgang line of products. You can also read about their products and watch some of their U tube presentations.
Jay
 
#13 ·
Thanks Jay, I've got a professional buffer as I was in paint and body for sometime. But never got into the detailing side of things.

Truck is done :)

Not as clean as the OP! But man it takes some work! :)
 

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#15 ·
Hey guys, so I detail professionally and have been doing so for about 5 years now and when I clay bar a car to prep it for paint correction/sealant/wax/or a coating the entire car is covered. Vertical and horizontal painted surfaces are all covered. Contaminants can get on the vertical surfaces just as easily as the horizontal surfaces so its good to clay the entire vehicle, time consuming yes, but rewarding? very! As far sealants and waxes go and how long they last is dependent on the person and how well they maintain the vehicle, do they wash it regularly like once a week or twice a month, also environmental conditions play a part as well. To be honest waxing and sealants are a lost art and coating are taking over, with the proper technique and install of these coatings they can last 1-2 years and they are simply amazing. However they are expensive and not really practical for the everyday "work truck". Sealants that i recommend are Menzerna, Chemical guys jetseal, and Carpro Hydro2. they all work great and a easily done to the vehicle with little effort.
 
#16 ·
Opti also has a coating you can buy. IMHO they are not the easiest product to work with. The actual installation of the coating might be considered easy however the prep can be very very time consuming. All defects have to be corrected. You look through the coating and see the surface therefore the paint has to be free of any defect before the coating is installed or you will see right through the coating and see all the defects you did not correct.
Jay
 
#19 ·
After your weekly wash try some Opti Spray Wax in place of a liquid detailer. It is a liquid wax that will last longer than regular wax and will keep your truck looking good in between regular waxes. Spray on a clean surface and use a microfiber cloth to wipe off. Takes about 15 minutes for the whole truck. Leaves a really slick surface.
Jay
 
#20 ·
Keeping it clean

I have always used the Meguiars Gold wash on the truck. Does a really good job and hardly ever any water spots.
But then again I never wash the truck in the direct sunlight. Always in the shade.
Haven't used a clay bar kit yet.

I use this store for all my cleaning supplies.
http://www.johnnywootenautoparts.com/

He has amazing products and reasonably priced.:rck:
 

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