Has anyone figured the cu. inches that are available under the rear seats for an enclosure? Consider that If I were build a fiberglass enclosure I dont know how thick the glass would end up to keep it solid and other than that I'd have a 1 1/2" more space that extends over the top suface that the cupholder is set in. I'd probobly want to run the glass back to the firewall to wherever it would level out from the top of inset cupholder. Basically keeping the seat sitting how it does stock. Any cu inches already figured will help me, just let me know from where to where you figured them. Thanx.
Well for myself I have built a fiberglass enclosure for a single 12" and I have right around 1.10 cuft it seems to work for me but I did have to raise the seat 1/4" to get it to fit.
Hey, I've been doing car audio for several years, am yet certified also. But to the guy above, are you sure yours is a fiberglass box? Or just a box with a plexiglass front so that you can see in it. Allot of people mistake this for a fiberglass box.
To the original poster, I really wouldnt reccommend this stuff. I mean what's the point in it? :IDEA: Have to set out, work, let it dry, and everything to where wood is easy to work with. Honestly man, I'd go with wood. If you want to go with something extra, do a plexi-glass front, where you can see inside the box.
You was worried about room? I believe your talking about a quad cab, or something similar correct? Make some [ ] to put under your seat. You can raise your seat 10+ inches with these, to where you will have plenty of room to install speakers.
Hey guys... Im doing a little house keeping in the 3G section.. If you dont mind, Im gonna move this to Interior / Exterior... Ill leave a redirect here as well... Thanks for understanding.
Fiberglass matte and resin are a great tool to get the most airspace out of any given space where airspace is at a premium. I was able to yield 2.68 cubic feet under my rear seat without any modification to the seat. This was done by pulling the trunk liner under the seat, dynamat the floor, laying down foil and then glassing over that. A full wooden box would yield much less airspace and be a complete pain in the arse to get every groove and bump to maximize airspace. From start to finish, it took me 10 hours to mock-up, build, and carpet the enclosure. I think I probably spent about $100.00 in supplies(MDF, resin, matte, hardener, brushes, carpet, spray adhesive) If your a beginner, it can be daunting to work with a substance that can eaily get out of your control due to not mixing the compounds properly and the resin either sets too fast or doesnt set until two days later. Practice makes perfect and then you can start charging you buddies to build there enclosures.
Yes mine is made fiberglass!. Only the bottom though it is molded to the floor then attaches to the rest of the mdf box. The only reason I had to raise the seat was because I miss calculated and the carpet on the box was thicker than I thought.But with mine I did not remove the floor carpet so I did lose a little room.
Man, this sites the best. I think I found a new home!! Yeah, I was thinking of building a glass enclosure for 2-10"'s. Right now I have 1-12" thats just sitting on the back seat (of course in an enclosure). But after listening to this other dudes the other day (2-10's) my ears are still really messed up. I've been a carpenter for 18 yrs. plus I cant seem make myself lower the volume. I didnt realize how much of the lower end I'd be sacrificing. So, I think I'm just gonna build an MDF box for the 1-12" to go under the rear seat. That way I can match the manufacturers recomended cu ft. And, now thinking of building a box that will sit under the front seat center console (the bottom) and sticking an 8" in there. My calculations tell me theres an average (tapered) of: .368 cu ft. using 1/4" MDF. Or I can build it square and get a little more volume. So I guess now my question is that 8" gonna give me any more bass or is it gonna sound like a muffled speaker and is 1/4" a thick enough box? And... should i point that sucker down instead? Thanx a lot for your input , I'll def. do pix. Either way.
Any pictures guys? Anyone actually raise their seat? Would like to know exactly how you did it and if it made it any less comfortable to sit back there. If I could raise it just 2" easily, I could probably get 2 cu ft down there.
Raising the back seat is not always needed. The only reason that I include the 5/8" spacers with my enclosure is the fact that the vent/port was added afterwards and 5/8" was all that was needed for the vent to clear. If you go over 1 inch the seat belts will have to be spaced up and the rear seat back will not lock onto the rear wall. The higher you raise the rear seat, the farther the seat belts will go into the crack of the seat. After 1-1.5 inches they fall behind the seat and passengers end up not using them. I don't recomend tampering with the seat belts since that is what your life depends on in a wreck. Putting a spacer on the seat belt bolts is not a very good thing to do since it decreases the amount of threads holding the bolt in and it increases the sideways leverage on the bolt which could lead to it breaking off in a wreck.
Hm, something to think about. Not really worried about the seatbelts all that much. But I do need the top of the seat to be mounted against the wall somehow. What could I use for a spacer for 1"?
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