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4 wheel drive viberation & clicking

886 views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  jimdodgeram1500 
#1 ·
I have a 98 ram 1500, with 5.9. recently, when i put my truck in 4 wheel drive, i get a viberation, and a clicking sound. the sound increases as i accelerate. i first thought it might be the pinion angle on the front driveline, but it doesn't look that bad. I installed a 5 inch lift over the summer. i didn't do anything to the running gear. It only does it in 4 wheel drive. also the 4 wheel drive light doesn't come on any more, and it doesn't want to come out of 4 wheel drive sometimes. I think something might be wrong with the transfer case. Does anyone have any ideas.
 
#2 ·
I have a 97 ram 2500 and it will do the same thing. It will only do it on something solid. For example when sometimes do 4wd doughnuts on snow and the tires hit pavement it will get relly jerky in the cab. Just make sure your on loose ground whenn you are in 4wd.
 
#4 ·
Almost all 4wd drive systems will do that if driven on a hard surface, like pavement. The solid surface doesn't allow the outside wheels, or inside wheels depending on how you look at it, to slip since the inside tire and outside tires need to spin at different rates. You probably don't have a bad u-joint unless you are constantly driving on pavement in 4wd. Also, if the u-joint is bad, it would be noticable in 2wd also, since it is always spinning, 4wd or not.
 
#5 ·
Actually you would only notice the u joint in 2wd if you slammed on the brakes, there usually needs to be a difference of torque between the wheel and the tire to get the u joint to shift and pop. the problem could be the vaccuum actuated CAD (central axle disconnect) the front axle in these trucks engage in the transfer case, and the Diff itself. instead of the older trucks which engage in the transfer case, and the hubs. If you do find a bad u joint, check your wheel bearings because you have to pull them to replace the joint anyways, and it's not going to be a fun job. I hope you like spending some quality time with a slide hammer. If you want to upgrade the the CAD (a good idea i plan on doing it in the spring) they make a kit that replaces the vacuum line stock stuff that can take up to 5 seconds to engage, and if you have a blown/leaky line, forget about it. the kit is *supposed to be fairly easy to install and it replaces it with a cable and a T handle actuator that goes in your cab. It would give you better control over the front axle. Also it allows you to use the low range of your transfer case in 2WD. They go for like 200$. U joints are cheap cheap, just get greasable ones, they are slightly more expensive, but will last alot longer (if you grease them). If you need wheel bearings they are EXPENSIVE, over 200 a piece minimum.
 
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