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Restomod 1978 Dodge power Wagon.

4K views 37 replies 6 participants last post by  DPW 
#1 ·
Well, it's been a long time since I've been back to the forum as I've been working on my truck non stop for the past year or so. It's hunting season so I'll be on and off, but come December, I want to make it a habit of updating.

So I Bought this truck a while back now, was a mix of a 1984 and 1978. I bought a1978 parts truck. And have swapped a 4 speed manual into my auto truck. I sold the 727 and np208. I bought fenders,doors, whole interior, and every part to bring this beast back to 1978. Tonight I will post a bunch of pictures before and now. Unfortunately I didn't record my swap to manual, but if anyone needs me to walk them through it I'm more than willing. Maybe when I rebuild the engine I'll pull everything again and make an instructional thread. I'm at work right now but I'll be back on in a bit to finish my thoughts. I'm going to try to record my entire process, as I know I would of loved to have a reference when doing the work I did.
 
#2 ·
Sounds like a cool thread! I have a 74 club cab 4X4 it was a pretty good driver, so I decided to mess that all up. I bought a donor truck 81 w250 4X4 4sp. I just moved the cab and bed from the 74 over to the 81. Now I have the 4sp instead of a automatic, and disc brakes, plus was overloading the w100 I haul water to my place in colorado, and rock etc.
 
#4 ·
OK apparently I can't find any of my pictures. Went through both computers and can't find them. So I Lied. And I believe you misunderstood my post moparite. I am converting an already 78 truck with an 84 body, back to 78. Not vise versa. And a restomod doesn't have to be a newer vehicle. I'm not restoring it to original. The only thing I'm keeping original is the body. Of course the frame and engine, but both are either already or going to be heavily modified. Hence the mod part. I'm still trying to find pictures. Next on the list is to put headers with dual exhaust on. Anyone have any ideas on what diameter the puppies should be? Its a 440 as well
 
#6 ·
Alrighty then lol. I thougt the mod meant modified lol. Makes sense now. I have 1 3/4" headers already. They're used but I'm going to remake them out of stainless. I also have a lot of 2"stainless tubing that I was going to make my exhaust out of. You think it's too small? Keep in mind there are dual.
 
#10 ·
With the big block go 2 1/2" exhaust for full duals.
:gr_patrio
 
#8 ·
I have an Edelbrock performer intake, 1605 carb, full msd ignition, and a mild cam of some sort. I will be going to Edelbrock Street heads and msd efi throttle body setup when I rebuild the engine. Also full serpentine pulleys. I want about 450 hp.
 
#11 ·
Shoot. Well, maybe I'll just make it from steel. Now one more question for now. My front axle is a 3 piece axle. Is the washer idea for the cad a good fix that will last about a year? I just need 4 wheel drive but don't have the time to put in my other axles. I've seen posts on making the cad fixed, and do I need manual locking hubs now? What about having a manual vacuum switch hooked up to the carb?
 
#12 · (Edited)
My front axle is a 3 piece axle. Is the washer idea for the cad a good fix that will last about a year? I just need 4 wheel drive but don't have the time to put in my other axles. I've seen posts on making the cad fixed, and do I need manual locking hubs now? What about having a manual vacuum switch hooked up to the carb?
... Assuming the other axles are 2 piece, you'd want manual hubs any way.

... Carb vac would work for hunting season etc; use a check valve and junkyard reservoir; bring 2 vac lines from CAD up under the hood, one for 2wd, other for 4wd; plug the one you want into reservoir (other will vent).

... "IF" you keep the CAD, consider Posi-Lok manual control; when used with manual hubs gives driver lots of options, handy for icy/winter highways.
... IMHO it's not well suited to right (pass side) drops though as the cable can be very long to reach the dr side CAD (with long cable and 270* of bends, the Posi-Lok cable on my 90 became very sticky/untrustable when only 1 year old); mounting it with only 160* ish bends in cable may help.
... Beware off a knock off product

http://4x4posi-lok.com/genuine-4x4posi-lok.html
 
#13 ·
So the reservoir is the sphere Thingy? I have all the vacuum lines and everything from the old t case setup. So just install a check valve? I'm sure I can figure this out. It can't be to hard. Have snow on the ground and two wheel drive with mud tires just don't cut it. I'm going to invest in the locking hubs. Why won't drive flanges work?
 
#14 ·
reservoir is the sphere Thingy? I have all the vacuum lines and everything from the old t case setup. So just install a check valve?

Why won't drive flanges work?
... Yup, res is sphere thing; should be a check valve on engine side (supply side) somewhere.
... Could use vac switch from old t-case (use/build a "threaded" cap/fitting/s or some other gizmo to press the switches ball).

... Drive flanges will work; but when CAD is engaged or your "other axles" (2??) are installed, the ring/pinion and fr driveshaft will all be turning (on my 90, in winter; when both posi-lok and manual hubs were engaged so all was turning, with t-case in 2wd the front diff got hot for some reason (so hot it would sizzle snow/water that dripped on it, wtf); could not find anything wrong with frt diff.
 
#15 ·
OK that makes sense. Yea that's exactly what I thought about. Making a threaded button cap for that ball fitting. Being a machinist has its perks. Then I Wouldn't need to do anything to the axle right? It's kind of fooling it into thinking that it has the np208. I have a set of drive flanges, but I don't like the idea of my Driveshaft spinning when I'm not in 4wd. I have one locking hub that I picked up at the junkyard years ago. Didn't have time to get the other one and went back and someone took it. .. I was mad. Paid for one then couldn't even get the other. So I'm going to have to buy a set...
 
#16 · (Edited)
exactly what I thought about. Making a threaded button cap for that ball fitting. Being a machinist has its perks. Then I Wouldn't need to do anything to the axle right? It's kind of fooling it into thinking that it has the np208.

don't like the idea of my Driveshaft spinning when I'm not in 4wd. I have one locking hub that I picked up at the junkyard years ago.
Yup, threaded button cap; or 1-2" coupler screwed on tight to mount it, with a threaded male insert to push the ball; could build it so it indicates position visually, and/or by feel (for nightime driving).
... Good setup IMO, gives manual control of CAD; awesome for slow hunting/bush/lease type driving, etc (I would mostly leave CAD fully engaged (stock light first comes on when only 80% engaged), then select/deselect 4wd as needed (never have to wait for CAD to fully engage, especially good when there's sparse ruts/holes/mud or if you get stuck or in a pickle).
... Yup, nothing to do; the "np208" vac switch is "fooling it"!!
... This setup also gives 2wd in low range.
NOTE: when moving; you must always select 4wd to spin the frt dr shaft etc up to speed "before" engaging CAD (stock truck does this automatically).

... Could install that one manual hub on the diff side (pass side right??); this would only leave dr side axle joint and its axle turning (spider/axle gears and 2 of 3 axles stopped).
... Am assuming the "intermediate" axle (3rd axle?) carries lube into CAD; so would not let frt diff oil get low; and every so often>>> would engage manual hub and drive for a 100 yards or more; this will rotate intermediate axle backwards (same as normal 2wd) to supply lube into CAD cavity for fork/collar and end bushing (with "3rd" axle stopped, end bushing speed/wear is 1/2 of normal).
... Link will help; not sure what year CAD this is (2G CAD is on pass side, diff on dr side), but concept is same

http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/tech/solid_axle_cad/
 
#18 ·
I think the vacuum switch will work good.
Making a switch this week. I will post a drawing of it when I finish.
Awesome (plan on doing this on 2G, but DK thread size/type; am assuming your switch is same as 2G). tia
 
#19 ·
Well looks like I sold the check switch with the np208. Going to the junkyard this weekend to find one. Also I've been working on getting dents out of my"new" does and fenders. And advice on how to get them relatively smooth?
 
#23 ·
Howdy. Found some pictures. That's my truck before I started. And actually before I even bought it. The one up on a ridge is when I had it. Bottom picture is before I did some work. I did the top end minus Regrinding the heads. I'm going to eventually do an overhaul. I also rebuilt the steering gear. I also machined the air cleaner spacer out of stainless, with o-rings on the top and bottom.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
#35 ·
Howdy. Found some pictures. That's my truck before I started. And actually before I even bought it. The one up on a ridge is when I had it. Bottom picture is before I did some work. I did the top end minus Regrinding the heads. I'm going to eventually do an overhaul. I also rebuilt the steering gear. I also machined the air cleaner spacer out of stainless, with o-rings on the top and bottom.
Awesome ... glad you found the pics. Looks good!


Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com
pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)
"He came to town on a cold dark night" __ Collin Raye __ 'What If Jesus Came Back Like That?'
 
#24 ·
I have to go buy a hammer and Dolley set. I want to use as little bondo as possible. I will be taking pictures of this too. Absolutely nothing on this entire build will be done by someone else. I love doing this work, plus I'm broke and really want to finish this haha.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
I have an 84 cab. In almost mint condition. So I Want to use it. But nothing from 78 lines up on the firewall. Any ideas on how I go about making a new firewall? I want it smooth and no unnecessary holes. I don't have a 70's cab to copy. Anyone have one they can measure? ? Lol

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#26 ·
OK so I figured I would get my 4x4 working before it gets really bad outside. Priority #1 ... I installed my locking hub on the passenger side. Looking back I should of put it on drivers side so I don't have to walk around my truck....


I removed my CAD


Along with all the circlips.


Then removed the actuator and fork from the housing.


Then I soaked my housing in varsol to get rid of all the crud. I used the shaft from the actuator, but cut everything else off.


Then I sandblasted and painted the housing


Instead of using washers I decided to machine some spacers.


I then measured how long to cut the shaft, trimmed it. Then made two plugs. The small one was m12. The large one I ended up drilling to tap 3/4-16. I used bolts, m12 I just faced flat so the shaft butts up against it. And the 3/4" plug I had to drill a 3/8" hole .650 deep in it, to let the shaft insert and ride in it. I forgot to take a picture of the large plug.


And here is the final result.


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#27 ·
I installed my locking hub on the passenger side. Looking back I should of put it on drivers side so I don't have to walk around my truck.
Yup, being CAD is now locked in the "engaged" position, it could have put it on the non pumpkin side and saved the walk (original plan was retaining CAD, not bypassing it).
... Looks good. ... May as well scrounge up 1 more hub, and stop the whole frt end from turning.
 
#29 ·
I'm going to buy new ones. This one is cheap. It has plastic on it... Any ideas on good ones to get? Maybe mile marker?
Sorry, can't speak for hub quality at all.
... Just looked at my retired 90 Ram 1/2 ton and its hubs are the same as the one in your pic, am "assuming" they are stock; far as I remember they never caused trouble (though I have had a frozen/"iced up" hub on something, forget what kind of hub it was, or if it was that Dodge or a forb (let's just say there was some fierce "grumbling" at it while standing out there in the freaking cold with a iced up hub froze in 2wd/FREE position, Grrrrrrrrr).
... Darn near everything in this neck of the woods has always had Warn hubs (remember some folks in a heated argument about Ford or Warn being better; no clue who was right, or if there were any valid reasons given).

... Seems most manual locking hubs give trouble when they're engaged "after" the truck is already stuck; many folks fail to nurse selector D N R etc, or nurse clutch gently in reverse and 3rd? a few times to allow hubs to fully engage; some just get in cab, slam it in gear, and hammer the throttle superhero style and RIPPPP the guts out of the hub/s before they are both "fully engaged" (then they turn down the radio/stereo and squak about hubs being no effn good!!).
... What they were thinking no one knows.

... Have seen other folks who pay attn: and with auto hubs in 2wd break thru the ice and frt wheels fall into a creek; while selecting 4wd, they turn off all noise (heater fan, radio/stereo, and anyone who is yappy/unhelpful too), and then while nursing trans selector, "listen closely" for the very slight "click/s" as each/both auto hubs engage; they never break a thing, and their truck is always reliable (imho, RELIABLE is the only thing that really counts).
 
#31 ·
Yea, I'm not a moron. Beside who goes offroading without their hubs engaged. Lol. I Like the fact that I can see if my hubs are locked. The biggest thing with hubs is the "nursing". Makes total sense.

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#32 ·
Yea, not a
Beside who goes offroading without their hubs engaged. Lol.

I Like the fact that I can see if my hubs are locked. The biggest thing with hubs is the "nursing". Makes total sense.
Not pointing fingers, kinda thrown out as a blanket statement; machinists etc can appreciate fully engaged splines/teeth etc, but some others do not (some see a light come on and WHAM, giver shit till it breaks!; some won't even wait for a light, just select, then wham/BREAK).
... The auto hubs and frozen creek mentioned earlier had been crossed many times during that November hunting trip by us and many others; roads and trail leading to it were dry and frozen so 2wd was normal (perhaps mild weather and/or high water, or previous heavy vehicles weakened it).

... Most of this stuff depends greatly on the lube as cold ambients require far more nursing (synthetics have sure helped this).
 
#33 ·
Lol good point. I'm just going to go with warn hubs. I have an 8274 winch that I rebuild/beefed up and it's awesome. They obviously make quality parts. I will update thread when I get more stuff done. I went to pick n pull today and got a muffler. I'm not going to bother posting me mounting my muffler as is pretty straight forward and not interesting at all.

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#34 ·
As you said earlier, there's also Mile Marker; IIRC also Spintec hubs or something like that (I'm not up to date on this stuff at all).
... Could search Jeep rock crawler folks (Pirate etc).
 
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