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Yellow sludge buildup in oil cap. Ideas?

31K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  KC_Metal 
#1 ·
We have a 2005 Durango SLT 5.7 hemi we've had since about July '09. I have changed the oil once on it. It had a synthetic blend something or other, so I went with full synthetic Mobile 1 5w-20 this time around.
Really, this is the first time I have ever put synthetic in any of my vehicles. I do all my own oil changes on all 4 of my vehicles and have done so since i first got my license @ 16. I had always went conventional and changed religiously at 3k miles or less.
Anyways, I had to change a leaky power steering hose on the Durango last night, and I thought I would check the oil.. It appeared to need a top off, so I took the oil filler cap off and there was a bunch of stuff that would be best explained as yellow sludge. It looked like lithium grease. I turned the cap over and there was water in there that appeared to be condensation.

I cleaned it out completely with brake cleaner topped off oil and put it back.

I immediately checked my coolant level and it appeared fine. I have been searching the internet and found that there can be condensation buildup if the PCV valve isnt working properly and due to the design of the filler cap being higher than the pcv valve, that condensation may naturally collect there.

I am concerned as to the condition of the internals of the engine.

Would this be simply due to the colder temps and condensation buildup or would it be related to the synthetic oil? This is the first time i have ever seen this in my years of doing oil changes, and this is the first time i have used synthetic, so im trying to figure our if there is a relation.

Also, it is parked outside, so when the temps range about 40 degrees or lower, the oil light comes on when first started for the day. When the vehicle is shut off and turned back on, typically the oil light will go off unless its really cold. This has occurred even before i changed the oil.

I am concerned that it could be a pick up screen in the oil pan, but i have searched the internet and found others with a similar issue, so i dont know if its a common issue/false positive or there is really a mechanical issue.

Anyone ever experience the sludge or oil light issue? Anyone have any input or ideas?
Thanks in advance!
James
 
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#7 ·
Mine doesn't have the buildup but there was another thread about it and I guess it's pretty common.
 
#5 ·
The condensation is normal, but the oil light may not. The oil light may stay on until the pressure comes up, right after engine start. This should only be a few seconds after start. If it stays on longer, than the oil pump may be worn, pickup tube or filter clogged, or sluggish pressure sensor. How long on a cold engine does your light stay on? Depending on the grade, your synthetic oil has realy good pumpability at cold start.
 
#6 ·
On the sludge as long as it's just the oil cap no worries, if your oil starts to looklike a milkshake, then worry.

On the oil pressure light.. it's a $30 part, so it maybe worth it to try replacing the oil pressure switch, it's just above the oil filter facing the front of the engine (on the Hemi).

My D would always have the light on when it was cold out and cold started.. first time I noticed I had been idling for about 20min letting the D warm up, I freaked, turned it off and back on light went out. after that if the light came on on start up, I just turned off the motor, restarted and it was out. With the new oil pressure switch, no light anymore.
 
#8 ·
I am the original owner of a 2005 Ram 1500 slt with a 4.7. From the first oil change, the underside of the oil cap has collected condensate from the crankcase. No biggie.

As of last winter, when it's real cold out the oil pressure gauge dosen't read. Like others i freaked at first. It all good.

After 4 years and almost 70,000 miles, I still love my truck.
 
#9 ·
cehall17, you may need a new oil pressure sending unit.. I did.. it was about $25 up here in Canada for the part, and all I needed was a deep socket 23mm or something(can't remember) dealer said 21mm.. but they were wrong. I waited til next oil change swapped it out.. added like 8min to the oil change time and 3min of that was figuring out by touch how to disconnect the darn wire harness...
 
#12 ·
Sounds like a good idea to replace that item. :D
 
#13 ·
Took my D in today to replace rear pinion seal AGAIN and also asked them to provide some input on this yellow sludge and they said it was due to condensation. They also suggested to replace the PCV in case it was not breathing well. Had an oil change done and replaced the PCV so will see if there is any benefit...
 
#14 ·
This is a common occurence on the 4.7L and 3.7L engines.

It is emulsified oil and water and nothing to worry about. It is usually caused by frequent short trips when the engine doesn't get fully warmed up or very cold climates. The water doesn't get hot enough to evaporate out. And it doesn't help that the filler neck is so high and further away from the engine.

If this happens to you I would consider shortening your oil change interval or switching to a high quality synthetic. If you are really worried about it send in a sample of your oil for anaylsis before switching or changing interval, you may be fine.

Both the 4.7 in my Aspen and the 3.7 in my Liberty do not have this problem, probably because we hardly ever do any short trips and live in a warm/temperate climate. Syn Rotella 5w-40 in the 4.7 and regular dino juice in the 3.7.
 
#17 ·
:thatfunny :thatfunny :thatfunny :thatfunny

What's that your high octane gas? ;D
 
#21 ·
Several online answers so who knows!

PCV Valve

It should be specified in the owners manual, and if not, they are relatively cheap ($3-$8) so you could do it when you do a tune up. Check it by popping it off with the engine off (it is located on the top of the engine usually and connected by a small hose) and shake it. It should rattle. If not, it is clogged and needs to be replaced.
Here are more opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers:


PCV valves are probably the easiest and cheapest part of keeping the engining running smoothly. They should be changed annually or at least every 2 years.

How often? NEVER. Trade secret among mechanics is take it off every 10-15k miles and soak it in gasoline or other solvent to remove all the gummy oil deposits left by venting the crankcase.All it is is a check valve that is activated by the amount of vacuum a motor creates. I've never bought a new PCV valve for any of the cars I've owned since I started driving 35 year ago. Back then of course,you could work on your car unlike today.Lift the hood and you can't even see the road where as before,you could climb inside under the hood and still have enough room to work.Now you HAVE to bring your car back to the dealer to have it worked on because of all the sensors,valves,computer modules etc etc.People...it's a scam! Save your money on a new PCV valve and just use a little gas from your lawn mower to clean the one you have.

The pcv should be replaced every 35,000 miles. Just cleaning the pcv is not enough. The part that fails on the pcv is the spring and cleaning it will do nothing. This part is cheap and can have a significant impact of gas mileage and on how smooth the car runs. Not the place to be cheap.
 
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