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post #1 of 12 Old 03-17-2017, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Abs and brake light on

96 RAM 1500 5.9l rear wheel and. Have them two lights on, changed the rear abs sensor nothing. Going to bleed the brakes and see if that changes anything (01 Durango had the same thing and the brakes needed bleed). If that doesn't do it what else could it be? I notice two that the 4wd light doesn't come on but I have 4wd. (Found out maybe the wrong bulb socket fsm says 74 bulb but the stocket in it uses a 194 so maybe that's the reason
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-17-2017, 09:55 PM
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specific light bulbs shouldn't matter.
do a gravity bleed and erase the codes with a memory dump.

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post #3 of 12 Old 03-18-2017, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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specific light bulbs shouldn't matter.
do a gravity bleed and erase the codes with a memory dump.
Please be more specific on what you mean by gravity bleed. Memory wipe by disconnecting battery? Well now I think it's the abs cab
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-18-2017, 08:45 PM
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:GRAVITY BLEED:
take the cap off the reservoir. open the furthest fitting rear/ right wheel cylinder, let it bleed till the bubbles are gone and the stream is regular, close it, next open the rear left, close it, next open up the frt right, close it, WATCH THE FLUID LEVELS. IF THE RESERVOIR RUNS DRY ITS TROUBLE- keep topping it off, next open up the frt left, close it, top off the fluids again.
I like to use valvaline 3/4 cause its clear. when the fluid is dirty I notice early. when the mechanic used trans fluid- I drained the whole system again, clear is the way to go, "cause a clean hydraulic system is in good working order"!
I have never had a reoccurring code with a gravity bleed.

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post #5 of 12 Old 03-18-2017, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spun360 View Post
:GRAVITY BLEED:
take the cap off the reservoir. open the furthest fitting rear/ right wheel cylinder, let it bleed till the bubbles are gone and the stream is regular, close it, next open the rear left, close it, next open up the frt right, close it, WATCH THE FLUID LEVELS. IF THE RESERVOIR RUNS DRY ITS TROUBLE- keep topping it off, next open up the frt left, close it, top off the fluids again.
I like to use valvaline 3/4 cause its clear. when the fluid is dirty I notice early. when the mechanic used trans fluid- I drained the whole system again, clear is the way to go, "cause a clean hydraulic system is in good working order"!
I have never had a reoccurring code with a gravity bleed.
Never knew you could do it that way. Was the from the FSM? I did the old two person method or the homemade one man brake bleeder. I might also bleed the rwal (if that's the right abbreviation) valve to
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-18-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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:GRAVITY BLEED:
take the cap off the reservoir. open the furthest fitting rear/ right wheel cylinder, let it bleed till the bubbles are gone and the stream is regular, close it, next open the rear left, close it, next open up the frt right, close it, WATCH THE FLUID LEVELS. IF THE RESERVOIR RUNS DRY ITS TROUBLE- keep topping it off, next open up the frt left, close it, top off the fluids again.
I like to use valvaline 3/4 cause its clear. when the fluid is dirty I notice early. when the mechanic used trans fluid- I drained the whole system again, clear is the way to go, "cause a clean hydraulic system is in good working order"!
I have never had a reoccurring code with a gravity bleed.
On another note: the kid I bought the truck off of did so much crap to this thing (took 1500 aches and put it on this 2500) I need help tracing where 3 wires go can you help?
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 07:45 AM
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erase the codes with a memory dump
Did you do this? Sometime the abs will hold the last code that was set(lights on) and won't shut them off until you reset it even if you replaced the sensor.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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erase the codes with a memory dump
Did you do this? Sometime the abs will hold the last code that was set(lights on) and won't shut them off until you reset it even if you replaced the sensor.
I disconnected the battery negative when I replaced the sensor for 10 minutes and still had the light. When I went to bleed it I found the bleeders are the factory ones from 96 and they wouldn't open up. So I sprayed them with PB Blaster and am waiting.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 09:01 PM
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just disconnecting the battery doesn't dump the 2nd tear codes.

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post #10 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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just disconnecting the battery doesn't dump the 2nd tear codes.
How do you dunno the codes then?
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Didn't bleed the brakes as all the bleeders are rusted but sprayed then down with PB Blaster will try later on today. Got the 4WD light to come on (ground was cut I hate people messing with wires). Now it's on constantly, and only goes out when I unplug the plug at the CAD
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-22-2017, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Pulled code 9 checked the resistance at the wss it was low (new sensor) so changed it again and it hit 1800 ohms (factory spec is between 1500-2500 ohms) but didn't stay there (think it was me as I was on my back in the dark). Checked the wiring with multimeter and I think its good, which only leaves the CAB.
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