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broken differential

5K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  fstchkn 
#1 ·
I have a 2008 dodge ram 1500 that we decided to put a 6 in rough country lift on! Only issue we had was one of the drive axles didn't want to go back in all the way, we even took the think to the dealership after to have them inspect everything and do an alignment on it and balance tires. They said the axle will work it's way back in it is usually because of rust that it is difficult to get back in all the way and they even have the problem! We drove it home and the next time we drove it we noticed the differential was leaking and cracked! Wondering how many other people are having the same problem? And if you are having to replace drive axles with a different type (dealership is recommending this)
 
#2 ·
In my experience, the dealer usually isn't all knowing on these kinds of things. They may know simpler things like if the wheels are on all the way.

Telling you that an axle that isn't all the way in the differential is fine is the stupidest thing I've ever heard a dealer say to someone. When in had my 4.56s installed I had a Detroit TrueTrac installed in the rear but I also looked for a new front differential. I couldn't find any so I didn't bother. I'd say get a OEM replacement axle, try an avoid the dealer as they can jack up their prices and sometimes don't know what they are talking about. What I imagine happened was that the axle wasn't in far enough to "work itself back in" so it went the other way. Probably got in the way and cracked it. All I can tell you is avoid the dealer when finding a new front diff unless you can afford an overpriced, most likely defective differential.
 
#3 ·
Yeah... we didn't think it sounded right either, but we have it documented that they said it so we are trying to make them fix it at their expense (we know we will have to pay for some of it but they said they would make it right)! We have not had a problem with their work till now! We usually buy our parts elsewhere and then have them fix it because we don't usually have the time and their labor rates are fair, and until now they've always done good! But also I have been to a couple forums where people have talked about having their front differential break after installing a rc 6in lift as well, and said they had no problems with their drive axles, it makes me wonder how many cases there are of broken differential after rc lifts! Rough country claims the lift is compatible with the vehicle!
 
#4 ·
Is there an option to get longer axle shafts? That would probably cost a bit but it won't break the differential.
 
#5 ·
That's what they suggested and we have been looking, so have they! We're just posed because rough country said we wouldn't need longer ones, and now to repair what's damaged is gonna be expensive! Truck looks badass with the lift but really regretting putting it on there!
 
#6 ·
Yea there is always something with mods.
 
#11 ·
That's so true....
 
#7 ·
You get it figured out?
 
#8 ·
Well... the drive axles are supposedly like 1/4 inch too short to be at the right angle and it is causing something to bind up ultimately breaking the housing! That is still according to the dealership who is not 100% sure on that. So we are waiting to hear back from Mr. Axle who specializes in this sort of thing to let us know if they really are too short or if it just wasn't in there properly! Because the only one that bound up and broke is the one we had them look at because it didn't go in all the way in the first place! I did find other people that have had the same problem with the rc lift on a dodge ram, so we will be contacting rc to make sure they know about it as well!
 
#9 ·
Ok so we just heard back from the axle place, they are going to extend the drive axles 3/4 of an inch to make sure they go in all the way and stay in, however they said it may not fix the angle of it enough to ensure it doesn't bind up again...curious if some limiting straps could keep that from happening or if there are any other suggestions! Maybe lighten it up with aluminum rims so less torque is needed? Not quite sure how all that works but really don't want to have this happen again and don't really want to say f it and just sell it after all this either!
 
#10 ·
I see trucks out there that are 4x4 that are extremely tall so there must be a way. I'd bet that there is some kind of assembly that you can get that comes straight out of the differential and has a pivot point on it for the axle shafts to rotate so that it isn't going on an angle into the differential. I don't know anything about lifts though so that's just a shot out there.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I just rebuilt my 9.25 diff and installed brand new axles (why not) and they fit like a glove. At first they would not go in enough to put the C-Clips back on so I pushed the aftermarket axle seals in about 1/10 inch more and then both axles went right in. I have never heard, nor can I imagine, how rust would prevent the axle splines from going into the differential splines. I agree with the earlier post, if the C-Clips are not in, then the axle will start to come out thereby breaking the axle/differential seals and housing.

The MOPAR OEM axle seals have an extra flange on the front that ensure they do not go in too much and that the VITON (rubbery) seal go in far enough to allow the outer end of the axle to go also go in far enough to lock in the C-Clips. If you are aftermarket on the seals, and have the outer edge flush/even with the diff/axle housing, then it will not go in enough to lock in the c-clips.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the info... we ended up taking it to an axle place... the dealership never figured it out, they just cost us a bunch of money and caused more problems! The axle place tore it all down and took precise measurements finding we needed one lengthened more then the other and stock axles would not work! We've been driving it a while now and no problems!
 
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