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03 5.7 v8 Engine shot (so the shop says) need suggestions...

6K views 48 replies 11 participants last post by  Nonova 
#1 ·
I thought it was a fuel pump issue. The shop I took it to thought it was bad spark plugs. But after they spent a good amount of time on it they finally did a compression test, and the first four cylinders all came back with no compression - They told me the engine is shot. Not sure how an engine can just quit on me out of nowhere, but it happened.

I am seriously limited on funds and need to make a major decision - I was wondering if someone could offer suggestions...

Do I cruise the internet looking for a used motor for around $800 - 1000 and pay 1000 to have a shop put it in? I could roll the dice this way and maybe get away with a few years until I can buy a new one.

OR

Do I cut bait and try to sell it as is and drive around all summer in a borrowed car that can't tow my bass boat? Maybe come fall time I'd have enough to buy a new or certified used truck that'll I'd probably be too uptight to load wood in.

suggestions for someone in a tight spot? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
1st thing I'd get is a 2nd opinion
 
#5 ·
If you do need an engine, don't waste your time on used stuff. You never know where it's been, LOL. You can get reman'd long blocks for like 3K, and you'll get a warranty
 
#8 ·
It just started losing power out of nowhere - no engine or oil lights on console - it felt like a flat tire at first but as u slowed down to check I realized it was the engine. I made it another 2 miles - say 5 minutes and then it died on me. It can be started but you have to give it a ton of power just to move it out of the garage. It is at second shop now
 
#12 ·
Broken valve spring in cyclinder #5. I guess I got extremely lucky...when the spring snapped it pinned the valve so it didn't fall. Saved me. It rides great right now, but my check engine light just went on as I was driving it for the first time (after about 20 miles). I'm going to take it back later today to see what the computer says. Hopefully it's nothing - maybe cleaning my aftermarket k&n air filter caused it. Maybe it's the O2 sensor that had to be reinstalled from the first shop. We'll see.
 
#13 ·
Congrats on that being the problem and not a shot engine. Every time my battery is disconnected for work, it trips the engine light a few miles after I drive off, you gotta get it reset. No biggie. It's just on to tell you the battery was disconnected. I think that's a fairly stupid code to have programmed in the computer considering it's gonna go off every time it's disconnected for work. Thanks Dodge.
 
#16 ·
And on the flip side to what txwooley said..... The one who repaired that truck for you, is a keeper :smile
 
#19 ·
$ 150 for the kit and he said he wants to replace the rods and some other internal stuff that would cost $100. That's $250 total for parts and about 4 hrs labor - so approximately a $700 job - once I get the money together. That seem right? I'm glad I ended up taking it to him.
 
#20 ·
Sounds reasonable to me. Replacing the push rods is a good idea as well. Will you be getting new valves or at least checking the valve with the broken spring? It wouldn't be unheard of for a valve stem to bend when the spring breaks. If the stem did bend then you are probably looking at a new valve guide as well, and now are in a whole different ball game in regards to cost.
 
#21 ·
I hope not. I'll ask the guy when I go back to get the rest done, but it is running like a top now (knock on wood). Would a slightly bent valve stem affect the performance where I would notice? I would think he checked the valve when replacing the spring and push rod and all of this:

 
#24 ·
Valve springs have been a issue on some 03/04's. The basic fix is to replace all the springs with 6.1 exhaust springs. If the push rods are worn the replacing them is needed. I you have the hemi-tic then you might consider using 6.1 push rods. Good luck..
 
#25 ·
He mentioned the kit for the springs (not sure if they are the 6.1 exhaust springs you mentioned, but he did say super strong ones compared to my faulty stocks) the kit was around $150 and he said he wanted to do the rods as well (along with some minor components for an additional $100).

My O2 precat got fried from the previous shop leaving it out, so I have to replace that. Not sure how much that O2 plus wire would cost me, but he said around $700 for the springs
 
#29 ·
The 6.1 exhaust valves (16) use to cost around $70. You can re-use the keepers and retainers. The truck would be basically undriveable without the front O2 sensor installed. The valve springs can be installed with the heads in place. Try the dealer for the springs. I have a set of used 6.1 exhaust springs if you are interested.
 
#32 ·
I'm not mechanically inclined. I know I'll have to learn someday, but I can't do it on my own today.

I appreciate the offer for the used parts, but I can't buy used for this one time deal. I want to get the new springs and not have to worry about it using my truck everyday for work and towing my 18ft bass boat through the Northwest Connecticut hills on weekends.

Where's the best place to buy the 6.1 exhaust springs online? (along with seals and push-rods)
 
#37 ·
where are you located, anywhere near NJ ? If so, bring it up and we'll do your swap in a weekend
 
#33 ·
You might consider Moe's, summit, Jegs or Rock Auto.
 
#35 ·
Valve spring dodge ram hemi 5.7l v8

$35.84 = valve spring retainer 2.24 x 16
Rock auto.com

$23.68 = valve spring retainer keeper 1.48 x 16
Rock auto.com

$36.32 = valve stem seal 2.27 x 16
Rock auto.com

$128.95 = 6.1 liter hemi exhaust valve spring set of 16

HHP racing ^



total $224.79 plus shipping from two places HHP Racing and Rockauto.com without PUSHRODS

WITH pushrods from rockauto.com

5.47 x 4 = $21.88

not sure which measurement is correct - they offer two:



WITH push rods.. $224.79 + $21.88= $246.67
 
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