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Cooling Upgrade-Electric Fan Conversion-Battery Wire Upgrade

11K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  JinTamrant 
#1 ·
I have a 95 Dodge Dakota V6 and I am planning to do some work on it to make it run better.

  • Change out the radiator
  • Change out the transmission cooler lines
  • Add a transmission cooler
  • Install an electric fan from a 1999 Dodge Stratus
  • Change out the battery cables to 2/0 AWG
  • Change out the alternator to a higher amp one

I have questions for two things.
1. For the battery cables. The cable that runs from the alternator to the fuse box next to the battery has quick disconnect connector on it.

What does this cable connect to?
Am I able to connect a 2/0 AWG cable from the alternator directly to the battery and leave the factory disconnected?

2. For installing the electric fan. I plan on having the fan run whenever the truck is on. I am going to be using a relay to control the fans. I am trying to find a wire in the engine compartment that is hot when the ignition switch is in the run position.

What wire do I splice into for this?
Can I run a line off of the alternator to make it the trigger wire?
Should I make the fan controlled by a thermostat control instead?

I might add a fan in front of the AC condenser and have that triggered by the ac compressor. Any reason why I shouldn't?
 
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#2 ·
I have a 95 Dodge Dakota V6 and I am planning to do some work on it to make it run better.

I have questions for two things.

1. For the battery cables. The cable that runs from the alternator to the fuse box next to the battery has quick disconnect connector on it.

What does this cable connect to?

Am I able to connect a 2/0 AWG cable from the alternator directly to the battery and leave the factory disconnected?

......
I thought I had the manual but I don't; I'll do my best here.

That cable should be the fusible link. My fusible link filled with corrosion and had to be replaced. I couldn't afford a new one so it was replaced with a standard battery cable. Like you said, it goes to the fuse box and it's the cable that charges the battery, as well as, supplying power to the fusebox. As for replacing and connecting a cable directly to the battery, I not sure you can do that here. The computer controls the charging. If you add a cable to the battery, the computer will not be able the keep a proper voltage level and will overcharge and burn-up the battery.

2. For installing the electric fan. I plan on having the fan run whenever the truck is on. I am going to be using a relay to control the fans. I am trying to find a wire in the engine compartment that is hot when the ignition switch is in the run position.

What wire do I splice into for this? ....
Instead of a standard relay, you need electric fan controller. My favorite is the Delta Current Control units and they're over build to handle a-lot of amps. Since I started using the DCC units, I've not had any problems with my e-fan controllers. I run my e-fan controller right off the battery that way it cools the engine down after I walk away from the truck; that's my choice. Using a keyed 12v source should be pretty easy to find with the help from a test light. Find an empty slot in the fuse box and start testing for the key-on power. But be careful to make sure the slot has power after the engine starts.

Can I run a line off of the alternator to make it the trigger wire? ....
No, bad idea.

Should I make the fan controlled by a thermostat control instead? ....
The e-fan controller will have radiator probe or it will use water temp sensor that will screw into the radiator tank or the water jacket near the thermostat.

I might add a fan in front of the AC condenser and have that triggered by the ac compressor. Any reason why I shouldn't?
The e-fan(s) work much better when they pull the air though the fins. When you place the fan in front of the fins, the e-fan has a hard time pushing the air though and some of the air is pushed out the sides. Then at highway speeds, the fan motor and housing blocks the air. The water temp goes up and the fan blades start spinning. The problem here is the blades are not turning as fast as the incoming air and you have cavitation where the blades will block even more air from moving though the radiator. Keep the e-fan(s) on the inside as pullers. And don't worry about adding an extra fan. The better fan controllers have a with that ties right into the A/C system. Most tie right into the same power line that closes the clutch on the front of the compressor.

:)
 
#3 ·
Ok. Thank you for introducing me to the Delta Current Control. I'm going to drop the idea of adding an e-fan to front of the AC condenser. I'm gonna go through my fuse box sometime today and take a look at the wiring.

Now if I do upgrade the alternator and the wire running from the alternator to the fuse box, should the two fuses in the fuse box be changed to higher amp fuses?
 
#4 ·
Anytime someone has replaced the "Big Three" and/or the alternator, I cannot remember them replace any of the buses or fuses. I didn't.
 
#5 ·
I was able to go to the junkyard today and I got a big alternator and stuff. I took apart one of the dodge dakota there. From what I found out is that if I do the "big three", I would have to add an inline fuse or circuit braker on the line run off the alternator. The cables from the alternator and the battery connect directly to bus. The lugs on those cable are "L" shaped and overlap each other. The only thing that I see that will be difficult for installing thicker cables is connecting them to the bus in the fuse box.

I included a picture showing the fusible link cable. I went to trace the cable and all it did was loop itself in the wiring harness and connect to the bus.
 

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#6 ·
Somebody with a Dakota needs to chime-in here because I've not done this upgrade on this trucks .... :help:
 
#7 · (Edited)
my fuse box had some empty spaces. i just went to a yard truck and used the terminals out of the junkers box to manufacture a new spot in my fuse box and make it look original- terminals and all! ran the pig tail out the btm of the box.
not a dakota though you might get some ideas from my system.
 

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#8 ·
this is the only true way to sensor the coolant temps. you will need a kit with a screw in sensor probe and buy the adapter for the rad hose. or find an unused port on the intake manifold or water pump housing.
the water born sensors are the best. those air born sensors are confused when the air is moving fast or when the ambient temps are too cold. never had luck with the dangle temp probes-
 

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#9 ·
if the controler has an option for auto fans when the ac comes on DO use it. i almost had a 400lb accident with over charging the ac condenser. YA 400lbs of pressure! and if the fan controler does not have an ac option find a different one!
 
#10 ·
how biga alternator you got for it?
 
#11 ·
I grabbed an alt off of a jeep. It is a 136 A alt. It better than the 90 A I have right now. I haven't completed the project yet. I have been a little short on cash. I have been slowly get the tools and parts that I need. By the end of January I should have this project done. I will be taking pictures once I get everything.
 
#12 ·
lots of the chrystler parts through the years are interchangeable. as you know. a jeep alt. for my 96 ram gas, i chose a 96 ram diesel alt for the 200amp service. wahoo! HOT
 
#14 ·
w/ the 5.2. It fit- barely, and I did not need to fab a shroud as it is a near perfect fit to the rad. w/ your v6 you would have even more room. I did have to relocate the coolant recovery tank though.
I will have to take a look at the fan for the intrepid. I have a fan from a 1999 2.5 dodge stratus. I waiting for a new radiator so I can mount the fan. I had to get a transmission cooler because my radiator has so much gunk in it. I had to replace the transmission filter twice already. I'm adding an inline filter.

Where did you relocate the coolant tank to?
 
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