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Love my truck but....

5K views 36 replies 9 participants last post by  seth505 
#1 ·
I love my truck, I have had it since it was new...but man owning a truck is expensive....and right now theres so many things going wrong with it, its killing me. Its got 125000 mile on it.
I need new brakes and rotors, new shocks, shocks are original. Today I was told my tires are shot, my right front is almost bald on the inside, so theres something wrong with my alignment. The tires are 285/70r17 Nitto Terra Grapplers. Even to just buy 2 new tires is a few hundred dollars.
Ive have a small power sterring leak, I thought it was my radiator itself, but I realized one day that my power steering fluid was low, filled it and eventually needed to fill it again. I see that right near the cooler for the power steering, theres a lot of residue, so the leak is there somewhere
Last weekend, I turned on the AC, only to get hot air.....so theres something going on there now.
Right now I have no clue how I am going to fix all this, theres just no funds for it.
Id get rid of the truck, but I dont see anyone buying a truck needing that much work without fixing it...and if I did sell it, I just cannot afford anything new (new or used for that matter).
Some of the work I can do myself, at least save labor, but I cant do all of it. Shocks are easy, brakes I can do with help, but some I just cannot see doing myself. Been trying to figure out what to do all day today.
 
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#2 ·
Brakes, shocks, ball joints, and tires are all normally wear and tear items. Rockauto.com is your friend for cheap priced parts
 
#3 ·
In the interim, find a place that sells used tires. You can get a decent set for <$150. You will need some front-end work. If you can DIY, it isn't too bad.

The A/C issue could just need a recharge. Shocks are super-easy. I bought four Monroe Reflex from Rock Auto for $110. For the power steering, just keep a bottle of ATF+4 handy and keep it filled while you get the other stuff done.
 
#20 · (Edited)
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The A/C issue could just need a recharge...
Unless the system was evacuated and not recharged, the only way an A/C system is low or out is due to a leak somewhere. Hoping a recharge will fix an A/C problem isn't even wishful thinking. Just like continuing to put air in a tire with a nail in it won't fix the leak. If you add refrigerant, at least use a can with dye in it so when it leaks out you can use a uv light to find the leak. If it's a large enough leak, you won't need a light. It may last for a while, but it will leak out again.
 
#4 ·
Oh yeah, I know they are all normal wear and tear items, thats not the issue so much as it is the fact that this is all going on at the same time....and they are all freakin expensive items too.....
Ive been living with the power steering leak, at this point i think its the least of the issues.
And I have been looking for used tires, having a hard time finding them around where I am, I have a guy I need to call tomorrow. Im not good at DIY for stuff like front end issues, some stuff I can do, the shocks, no problem doing that myself.
 
#5 ·
My last one had 204k before head gasket blew and that was one week after I replaced freeze plugs, tie rods, ball joints, and radiator. I had picked up a rear end pinion rebuild kit the day before it happened. That was my breaking point.

I was where you are at...I looked at what all it needed-head gasket, rear end, front end (4wd blew out in March) and it wasn't worth the money or downtime. Normal wear and tear items are worth it, especially at your mileage. If you're having major engine or tranny issues, then getting away from it would be an option.
 
#6 ·
just bought the brake pads and rotors from Rockauto.com, hopefully its all good. See the shocks there, not that I would buy them, but damn some of those shocks listed are only $10-$11....I was gonna buy Rancho shocks, but they are the same price there as a local shop here.
Are KYB shocks any good?
 
#7 ·
I feel your pain. You just need to tackle the major things while you can little by little. I know Firestone, if there is one where you are, will check the alignment and tell you what you need to have fixed free of charge. This helped me as I needed all the front-end alignment related parts replaced. Did that job myself, isn't too hard if you have the right tools. You can rent most tools from an auto parts store, you just have to put down a deposit for it which gets refunded to you when you bring them back. Look on the bright side, the two most major components of your truck's operation (engine and transmission) are both operating normally. Power steering leak isn't a big deal, just keep checking it and filling it, try to find the leak if you can. Could merely be the power steering cap shooting fluid out when the pressure builds. Mine did that. The front-end work would be the first thing I do because you can't get new tires before you do that because you'll ruin them. I would send you my old tires that still have about 20% tread left but they're 20's and you have 17's. Shocks are not a huge problem either. Take the truck to an alignment shop that will check it for free. They'll tell you what you need, watch some YouTube videos on how to change the front end parts, and change them. It's not too rough to do. Upper ball joints are simple, requires a socket for the bolt on the ball joint, a socket for the control arm bolts, and a hammer to get that ball joint out of the socket. Comes right out usually. I couldn't find ball joints that are separate from the control arm so all you have to do is take the old one off and put the new one on. $63.99 per upper ball joint at O'Reilly's and they're greasable: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._5017508_1145&keyword=ball+joint+&+components

Then if your lowers are bad, you have to take off the spindle/knuckle which isn't too bad either. You need to get a press to press out the axle shaft, you need a ball joint press for the lower ball joint, and you need a hammer. The spindle comes off after you get the upper ball joint out, the tie rod end (comes out with a hammer after removing nut), the lower ball joint (also comes out after smacking the bottom with a hammer after removing the nut), then you need to press the axle shaft through with the press that you rent from an auto parts store. Then use the press to press out the lower ball joint. Just watch some videos on YouTube about how to get those ball joints out. Sometimes you need to get a ball joint fork if they don't come off with a hammer. At O'Reilly's, there are two options, greasable or not, not greasesable is $23.99: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._5017508_1145&keyword=ball+joint+&+components and greaseable is $73.99: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._5017508_1145&keyword=ball+joint+&+components. You don't "need" greaseable ball joints if you don't do anything suspension stressful like off-roading.

First thing I'd do is get the alignment checked and see what needs to be done for that.
 
#8 ·
wow...see its all adding up now, all I can see is dollars flying out of my pockets. This is depressing. Its hundreds of dollars more and more all the time.
Im almost ready to get rid of it and get a Prius.
I cannot find used tires, I was hoping to just find 2 of the size until I can replace all of them, but I cannot find 2 used tires of the same size. I found a guy selling four 265/70r17, goodyears, for $100, may be I have to do that for now.
Im not that mechanically inclined, I can do some stuff, but I have never taken a fron end apart like that, I dont know that I trust my knowledge and ability to do it right.
 
#9 ·
If I could I think I would get rid of it, as sad as it is, I love this truck and have no desire to ever drive a car at all any more, but who would buy a truck knowing all the things that are wrong with it, for money that I could actually buy something other than some other piece of crap that needs work too...I have no credit, couldnt even get credit at firestone for their 6 month no interest deal today....
 
#10 · (Edited)
How much are you expecting to get for it. It's highish miles but it has a good engine. Depending on how much you got it for, and how much you sell it for, you could be losing a lot of money selling it. You have a good truck with problems. An 04 Hemi 4x4 is far from a bad truck. A $100 set of tires is a steal if they're not bald. But if you don't get that front end fixed, you'll eat right through them very quickly.

I've been in your same situation. My 2002 4.7L 4x4 had a ton of problems. Evaporator core was leaking freon so I didn't have A/C for the first 4 months of owning my truck. This was from May through August in west Texas, 100 degrees average. That was problem one, then came the radiator, calipers, transmission, exhaust manifolds, tires, spark plugs, battery, entire front end, and rear end. I bought it for $10,500 and I have put almost $10,000 into it for repairs and upgraded axles. Yet I could probably only get $5000 for it if I was lucky. And I hate my engine, it can't even pull it's own weight with 33's on it. That's why I spent $2,200 on 4.56 gears and a new differential. You have a 2004 5.7L Hemi pushing a little less than twice the horsepower as mine plus it's also a 4x4. You have a truck that shows a lot of potential. You just need to do little by little. You will lose far more if you sell it.

Looking over your problems, you really don't have A LOT to do. Brakes and rotors should come first so you don't crash and die :) then front end needs to be checked and aligned. Since they're balding on the inside, you have some negative camber going on which could mean it just needs a simple alignment. All you need to do first is take the truck to a shop that does alignment checks for free such as Firestone, and have them check it. There is a good possibility that nothing needs to be fixed, it just needs to be aligned. That's what I would do right away. An alignment averages at like $70 maybe. Then you can put those $100 tires on there without worry. So far you've got $170 in it and it's road worthy.

Then brakes, you said you have the new brake stuff so put them on. How much did you spend on that?

Your A/C does not need to be fixed ever if you don't want it to be. I would say put some freon in it with a recharge kit and see how long it lasts. If it lasts for weeks, great. Months? great. Days? Not so great but like I said A/C is only for comfort not for driving. You likely have a problem with the evaporator core which is no fun to work on.

$170 and you are good to drive the truck for a good while if the front end doesn't need work, a lot of the time they don't. Refill the power steering when it needs it, and ignore the A/C, keep the windows down when you drive. Get a good set of tires whenever you can afford them. I ran my old 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers down to where I couldn't leave a stop light without spinning the tires under little throttle. You are not in that big of a hole bro, you have a real good truck in your possession.
 
#11 ·
that prius will cost you in the long run, especially if it's sold used....
 
#12 ·
Cost you your manhood along with everything else :). I could never buy a car like that.



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#13 ·
i will get the front looked at, but I need the tires, the front tire is bad, I dont really think I should be driving on it. I had to cancel the brakes...thought I had more money in my account than I did, Im gonna get it all slowly, probably get the pads this weekend, then next check get the rotors. Gotta do the backs first though, I was told theres basically no pads left in the backs, and about 40% pads left in the front. Heres a question, if theres pad left, do you need to replace the rotors? Any time I have gotten the brakes done, they always replace the rotors, but do they have to be? I know from visual inspection the backs are done and have to be replaced.
I did have some work done on the front, I forgot what, it was a while back, Im hoping its just the alignment. It drives straight with no real pull either way, but the last alignment I had was when I put the Nitto's on.
I found a good deal on tires, new ones, and Im thinking that since I need 4, but cant afford 4 at one shot, I should get 2, put them on the back, put the 2 backs up front for the moment, get the alignment checked, see how that is, at least it will give me time, the backs are in decent shape, but need replacing, so if they move to the front, it buys me a bit of time.
And no, Im not getting a Prius...just depressing when your hit with so many things.
 
#14 ·
You can get away with just pads, if you didn't bugger the rotors. but there's also the thickness to be aware of, If the last time the brakes were done and they/ you turned the rotors, you might be down to minimum safe thickness, but if rotors were changed, your golden for pads only...
 
#15 ·
You can usually just look at your rotors and see if you need new ones. Do they look destroyed? Feel them, if they're curvy or have any super deep cuts in them then you need new rotors. You don't have to replace the rotors every time you do pads. Like I said before, if you put tires on before an alignment then you will just ruin those tires. If you really think that tire is on the verge of blowing out then drive it really really slow to the alignment shop. You will destroy a brand new tire if you put them on with that kind of tire wear.


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#16 ·
At least swap the rear tires to front, I'd like to go to Alignment shop with the better tires on front...
 
#18 ·
Well, I got 2 tires replaced. Took the rears and put them up front. Tomorrow I am getting the alignment and the 2 fronts replaced. So the tires will be done. I have the rear brake pads, need the rotors still, then hoping to get away with only the pads up front. I know the last time the front brakes were done the rotors were replaced then. Im hoping theres enough pad left up front that it hasnt destroyed the front rotors.
Im going to try doing a rechanrge on the AC, hopefully it just needs that and I can get by on that for a bit. Shocks are next after the brakes.Of all the issues, shocks are the easiest ones for me to do. Just need to figure out what shocks I want. My last truck had Bilsteins, but they are a bit more maney than I want to spend, and I really dont need see the need for them, though I do love them.
 
#19 ·
Isnt AC Delco a Chevy company? I was looking online at different shocks...and see that AC Delco makes shocks for Dodge.....I thought it was a chevy company.
 
#21 ·
I'm closing in on 200K - a lot of things start to leak.

Try Lucas power steering stop leak - it worked for me.

Change your fluids regularly -you will save money in the long run.
 
#22 ·
May have to try it., I know where its leaking pretty much,
 
#23 ·
Hang in there. Over the last 4 weeks I've replaced coolant, thermostat, brakes/rotors, upper control arms, transmission fluid/filters, rear leaf springs, rear shocks, sun roof, radio/door speakers, shifter shaft seal, and just got center caps for these OEM wheels yesterday and new floor mats. Still need 2 new cats, O2 sensors, front shocks, plugs/wires, and maybe check out the front sway bar bushings this week for wear. Tackle what you can when you can, eventually you'll be left with nothing to fix.
 
#24 ·
Just out of curiosity, what caused you to replace the leaf springs? Also, why don't you just ditch the sway bar? I just took mine off. These trucks are supposed to have independent front suspension but since that sway bar goes to either side, it stiffens it up. Take it off and you have a true independent front suspension and it is smoother with barely any side affects. I barely notice any more roll than usual and it handles things like potholes and speed bumps much better. Just a suggestion.
 
#25 ·
I am slowly getting it done, the tires were the biggest expense, they are done now.
Radio is getting replaced too, its been acting wierd, sometime it wont turn on, sometimes it wont eject a CD, sometimes it wont play a CD..wierd, but thats last on the list. (though it should be first, I need music) Mechanical issues first., lol.
 
#26 ·
Previous owner cut the leafs and took one out. Heated them and flattened them out. Had them held together with hose clamps and 20 lbs of duct tape. Worst thing I've ever seen in my life. I got Belltech 3.5 leafs and street performance shocks and it rides like a champ. I need stiffer shocks in the front. Some people are picky about rebound and soft rides, I like my truck to stay flat, stiff, and recover from bumps, dips, and jacked up freeway. I was actually looking for strut tower braces, but I don't think they make them for our trucks. Front body roll blows. Thanks for the front sway bar suggestion, that sounds like a plan. Ball joints need replacing too. I'm like Stevep12---one thing after another---but the results of each one thing done makes it worth it. And x2 on mechanical issues first.
 
#27 ·
Well just tonight now my brake light went out...last time this happened, the bulb melted the gray plastic strip that the 3 bulbs plug into, and I had to replace the one on the drivers side.
 
#28 ·
Odly enough that happens all the time. Steve. Actually happened on mine. I spent hours trying to figure out why and it leads back to a faulty circuit board where the bulbs are plugged in. I'd take yours out and replace the board or it will start beeping in your truck while your on the road saying Lamp Out then going away and coming back repeatedly non stop. Gets very very annoying. I've replaced both circuit boards on mine. $15 ea at a junk yard or near that at an auto parts store. Don't go to the stealer (dealer) for these.
 
#29 ·
Is the board that gray plastic strip all the bulbs plug into? I replaced the one already last time it happened, this time it took out both left and right side brake lights... If this is a faulty board, isnt this a problem for Dodge? Its a safety hazard.
Do you know what this thing is called really? I want to look them up online.
 
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