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360 build update

33K views 301 replies 18 participants last post by  smity901 
#1 ·
OK so we got the fuel sync set at 0 it does bounce to -2 back to 0 now and again...idk how much closer we can get it to stay at 0 then that. Second when the truck is idling the timing the scan tool read was 14* from what i've read around with these cams that sounds about right.

now these test were under no load sitting in park this is what im getting.

My buddy jay was bringing the the rpms up by 100rpms at a time with the scan tool to test it, once the truck hits 1400 RPMs the timing jumps up to 30* and it starts back firing. So we backed the rpms back down to idle at 750, now using the gas peddle we bring it up past 1400rpms it back fires a little once you hit 2400 rpms the computer brings the timing back down miss fires go away and as you continue to rev the engine up in rpms hitting 3,000RPMs the computer has the correct timing and you can just bury the tack to 6 grand no back fires nothing the truck just sounds great. Its just that first couple hundred rpms the computer is tricked for some reason thinking that the truck is running wide open.

The TPS sensor isn't tossing a code so I dont think its bad to make the computer think its going balls to the wall.

Im going to email Sean and see what he thinks.

I feel like we have taken a step in the right direction though in getting this thing dialed in though.

Any thoughts or help let me know guys.

the truck sounds so good at idle and once you get passed the 2400 mark omg look out the 3 inch pipes thing sounds mean!!!! shes just a little confused still.

Was also thinking about taking the tune out and seeing what happens.
 
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#110 ·
Do you still have your stock rocker arms? If so you could try them with the stock pushrods and see if thats your problem.
 
#111 ·
my sync is set at +2. and y not just run a compression check on all the cylinders. maybe your lifter & spring combo likes less pre-load. if the compression test fails, then you know you didnt fallow the adjustment procedure right or try backing off possibly 1 full turn- that would leave you at 1 full turn pre-load.
i kinda like petersons idea too. try the stock rocker set up and stock rods. just spray everything clean real good.
 
#112 ·
Ok sunday I'm going over to my buddys, he believes its atooth off in the dizzy gear, he has a scan tool a also, so sunday I will have pictures for you!!! I don't have the stock rockers and prods any more, the lifters are at half turn right now, ill do a compression test sunday as well, we drove the truck all over today didn't miss a beat, like I said if you just take it easy on it its good, if your going to open it up make sure its past 3 grand, for it to run like it dose when you daily drive it and then pin it past three grand it had to just be a hair off on that gear.

If all these test come back and everything checks out wildman yeah maybe ill try that computer, but I goto believe that its human error why this thing backfires
 
#113 ·
Smity,
Good luck this weekend figuring stuff out. I turely hope you do get it all figured out. If you don't and want to borrow my ECM just let me know. As I said my Jeep is down until I get that 5.9 back together and in the Jeep so I won't need it for a few more months. PM me if you do.
 
#114 ·
Ok thanks man! Are you completely sure that it will support what I did if i do end up taking that road? I know you said it has a ton of mods done to it, but would it accept a 512lift cam with 2.02 heads and what not how does that work? I would figure he would tune the ECM to what you were going to build with your 5.9?
 
#115 ·
Was tossing ideas up in my head last night, thinking if I had a high stall converter wonder if that would solve my problems on take off? like a 2400 stall that way I would start right out of that bad rpm range lol. It does seem to bog first then pop like it cant transfer the power out to the trans....but im sure its just in my head and im looking for the next thing to check if sunday fails.
 
#118 ·
No I'm going to get it fixed right, but if I check all these steps to diagnosing and it all comes back ok I'm going to to have to assume computer failure, using his bg will stop me from wasting money buying my own finding out it won't help
 
#117 ·
Smity,
If you need stock rocker arms I still have mine. They just need to be soaked and cleaned. When I had B&G program the ECM I told them that I had an engine running a 52mm throttle body, air gap intake, RT cam, H&S RR w/1.7 ratio, headers, 5.13 gears & RV/Tow torque convertor. So I think it will give enough fuel & timing for you. I am just trying to give you a different tune to see if you still have that same issue. I also have a stock ECM if you want to try that. But it is for a 5.2 so I don't know if it will run a 5.9??? I had issues with my engine not running right when I first did my engine swap so I had bought a spare ECM to test with. Just let me know if I can help with any of this. I still have a bunch of parts from my engine.
 
#120 ·
Crank sensor can be bent and still be working, but way out of time. Mine was caught by a burr on my flex plate and bent it about a half inch to one side. Truck seemed to run ok going forward, but would spit and sputter and act funny down low. In reverse, it would all but die as it popped and backfired, it was almost impossible to back out of a parking spot. This was right after I had rebuilt my trans and put it in, and made the mistake of using the holes in the flex plate to turn the engine over as I put the TC bolts in. I ended up having to buy a new flex plate and crank position sensor, and removing my trans again. But yes, a damaged crank position sensor CAN act like that.
 
#124 ·
hmmm very interesting, im wondering if we knocked it off when we were trying to mount the engine to the trans and we were bouncing it around maybe knocked it off.
 
#121 ·
please try the fuel synch. dumping to much fuel and not opening at the right time causing it to flood out, then backfire.
 
#122 ·
ram this! a damaged crank position is very popular. :IDEA:
 
#123 ·
Once I get the distributor pictures I will check them crank sensor next, But from what i've been told if it was damaged it would not allow them truck to even start it wont allow spark?

please try the fuel synch. dumping to much fuel and not opening at the right time causing it to flood out, then backfire.
The fuel sync is good where its at. We tryed moving it around and had it at 8 at one point she didnt like that, go to far into the - and she barley idles, she likes 0.

If all that fails im going to take wildman up on his offer and ill call b&g and see if the cam that he has it tuned for will work with the cam I got in mine or if they think ill see the same problems.

Were getting ready to head to the shop here in a bit and look at the TDC Rotor position. The guy who helped me put the engine in is pissing me off, I keep bringing up the tooth off and he keeps on saying it dont matter it dont matter, I got 100 people telling me it does matter where that Distributor gear is, and he gets all pissy telling me it dont matter we turned the distributor and 0ed it in its where its got to be, but i cant explain to him that being a tooth off its obviously advanced just a hair too soon sending spark when the intake valves still open........a tooth off could cause these problems correct?
 
#125 ·
bumped/ bent/ damaged and still functioning. its just a magnetic p/c. it will throw the spark timing off. this sensor can be mod for 3* advance. it rests real close to the trans flywheel and just reads a notch as it spins around.
 
#127 ·
What should the truck be idling at degree wise?
 
#129 ·
i read a pcm scanner. most of the time 12*+ 14* at idle but, cause the engine purposely jogs the a/f it also jogs the advance! i see it bounce to 20* and back. i dont believe looking at a timing light is going to help. the tuned pcm is doing it.
maybe if the dizzy is off a tooth, the advance could be misbehaving. for the most part it either runs right or it doesnt. you are left up to the mercy of the installer to know how this catywampus distributor is supposed to be lined up! then fine dial in the fuel sync. mine ran for a week even off 23* on the fuel sync, yet the dizzy position was correct. the sync movement is tiny.
at full throttle though my advance will climb gradually. no crazy jumps or drops. i have seen 40* WOT.
the timing is doubling at a certain point? strange
 
#128 ·
Its siting at 15*, but jumps to 30 doubling its self under a fast acceleration, its finally in a barn were someone can look at it, it rained sunday, but there setting it up tdc and goto send me pictures, from what I've read when timing doubles in low end its due to improper timing aka being off atooth or two
 
#130 ·
Well the guy just texted me, said the dizzy and rotor are on the money, I asked him to send a picture, I can try just changing the fuel sync just a degree or to but before out didn't like it, I'm thinking banged up crank sensor or fly wheel, in that case when I have the trans rebuilt ill have them look at it, might buy new dizzy since this one has 212000 on it, after that thing to try wild mans b& g computer, or just call them, only so much I can do
 
#131 ·
Oh yeah, the 15* is with out the tune, I won't put the tune back in till this is fixed
 
#132 ·
I got the picture, the rotor if right over the notch on the plastic that says cylinder , I can't post a picture yet cause I'm not home
 
#135 · (Edited)
It looks like it might be off 1 tooth. It should be pointing just before the #1 notch at TDC. Can you get another picture so I can see the hold down clamp.

Here is a picture from Hemifever. TDC with +6 fuel Sync.
 
#137 ·
Ok ill have him send another picture, lets say those tabs are in the right spot, dose that mean its off a tooth still?

If so lets talk on how to fix it with out pulling the motor.
 
#138 ·
And where dose the 15 in the 9 &3 come from, why don't you just say 9&3?
 
#140 ·
the position isnt 9 & 3. its slightly clockwise, 9:15 & 3:15! it isnt square with the motor!
 
#139 ·
Sean just got back to me and he also wants a better picture, but he believes that it a tooth off also, he then sent it to another engine tech he knows and he also said it looks a tooth off, but before I go digging it out, I will have more pictures of the rotor and try and get the tabs, im going to send him the picture you guys posted on here.

So lets say this is confirmed how does one go about removing this stupid gear thats buried down in there? Lee you said something about making it jump a tooth, please explain one more time for me bud. I've told the story what I thought you said about grabbing the rotor and turning it but everyone freaks out on me saying ill break stuff lol so idk if thats what you said exactly.

I was thinking drop oil pan, pull intake, tap the shaft to free it from the cam then I would turn it one tooth!!!! counter clock wise?

Any one else got better idea?
 
#141 ·
i cant tell how by the pict you would know its off a tooth. i need to see the relationship against the clamp.
 
#142 ·
You won't break anything, I did this for mine last month.

Unbolt the clamp. Then pop the dizzy up a little but make sure the dizzy shaft still sits in the drive gear. Then spin the rotor clockwise lifting the dizzy a little at the same time, the drive gear will walk up the cam gear to the next slot.

I'll check back in the morning, just got back from hunting and I'm beat.
 
#143 ·
well this should get interesting, he already moved the gear one tooth and said its running much better. he still needs to go back and fuel sync it, obviously cause the gear was changed, said he would do that tomorrow.

I got a bad feeling about this though, before I left his house the first day this was talked about, I had said how jakes automotive had robbed me 100 bucks, his response was should of payed me at least I would of fixed it. I said I got another 100 if you think you can he said ya bring it on by. I just got done texting him today and I asked how much for his time obviously he did a little more then 100 dollars worth of work he responded shouldn't be more then 500 with a LOL after it......I'm not paying 500 bucks to jump the dizzy gear one tooth so this is about to get interesting, my dads shop would of done it for 300, plus this is a friend of mines dad......cant wait to see how this goes down.

here he gave me a picture of the one tab you can tell it needs to be fuel synced but its almost there here is a picture.
 

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#144 · (Edited)
oh yeah that black stuff you see is oil...guess my oil pressure sensor was leaking.
 
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