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How To Change Spark Plugs 3.3L & 3.8L

91K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  JCO 
#1 · (Edited)
I have only removed the rear bank spark plugs while on a lift, you can use jack stands if necessary.

Make sure the engine is cool and you use a little anti-seize on the threads.

You can also remove the windsheild wiper cowl & wiper arms & intake plenum to get at the rear plugs, alot more difficult than using a lift or jack stands. The reach alone is a bitch. I also would get a peek at some other goodies while in this area, O2 Sensors, PVC Valve & Hoses, & Heater Fan Blower Resister.

These can all be easily replaced & or fixed while in there.

Here is what ALLDATA says on this subject:

Service and Repair



WARNING: The ignition cables should not be removed while the engine is hot. This could cause server injury/burns and can cause damage to the ignition cables .

CAUTIONS:
  • Use extreme care when removing and installing the spark plug cables.
  • The spark plug boot heat shield needs to be installed correctly on the boot before being installed on the engine (Fig. 1). If it is not installed correctly engine misfire would occur.
  • Do not use pliers to pull the boot/heat shield assembly from the spark plugs. This will damage the shield assembly
CAUTION: Note routing of secondary ignition cables before removing. Failure to route cables properly may result in radio interference, ignition cross fire, or ignition short to ground.

NOTE: Keep plugs in order removed. A plug, that looks different from the rest, could be a problem indicator.

SPARK PLUG #3 AND #5

REMOVAL

  1. Remove the resonator.
  2. Remove intake strut to cylinder head bolt at cylinder head.
  3. Loosen bolt for intake strut at intake.
  4. Swing strut away.
  5. Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break the seal with the plug and pull straight out, Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, heat shield or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
  6. Remove spark plug INSTALLATION
  1. Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
  2. When installing the spark plug cables, make sure spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
    • A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.

  1. Install the cable into the retaining bracket.
    • Make sure that they are also attached to the rear retaining clip mounted on the rear of the intake manifold.

  1. Swing strut back into place.
  2. Install intake strut bolt to cylinder head at cylinder head.
  3. Tighten bolt to intake strut at intake.
  4. Tighten bolt at cylinder head.
  5. Install the resonator.
SPARK PLUG #1

REMOVAL

  1. Remove the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.
  2. Remove the 4 bolts from the upper half of the generator bracket.
  3. Push the Generator rearward.
  4. Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break its seal with the plug and pull straight out. Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
  5. Remove spark plug INSTALLATION
  1. Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
  2. When installing the spark plug cables, make sure the coil or spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
    • A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.

  1. Pull Generator back into place.
  2. Install upper Generator bracket with the 4 bolts.
  3. Install the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.
OTHER PLUGS

REMOVAL

  1. Spray compressed air around spark plug to prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
  2. Remove spark plug wire by grasping boot and turning 1/2 turn while pulling boot back in a steady motion.
  3. Remove spark plug using socket with foam insert. INSPECT FOR:
    • Color of Deposits
    • Excessive Deposits
    • Electrode wear
    • Cracked or Damaged Threads Or Insulator
    • Worn or Bent Electrodes
    • Damaged Gasket
INSTALLATION



  1. Start plug in cylinder head by hand, to prevent cross threading. CAUTION: Do not overtighten plugs, overtightening can distort plugs resulting in a changed gap.
  2. Torque spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 Nm) .
  3. Install secondary ignition cables on spark plugs, (be sure connectors are pushed onto plug completely).
CAUTION: When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle operation should be avoided for approximately 80 km (50 miles) after installation of new plugs. this will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.

NOTE: You should also set the gaps prior to installing new plugs, you cannot assume that they are set right out of the box.

Spark Plug Gap Specifications

NOTE: Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information(VECI) label, (under hood). If label is gone, or not readable, verify system and use the following specification.



Spark Plug Gap 1.2 to 1.3 mm (0.048 to 0.053 in)



Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled.

CAUTION: The Platinum pads can be damaged during the measurement of checking the gap if extreme care is not used.

  • Use only a taper gap gauge
  • Never force the gap gauge through the platinum pads. Only apply enough force until resistance is felt.
  • Never use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner machine to clean platinum spark plugs
  • Use an OSHA approved air nozzle when drying gas fouled spark plugs.
If gap adjustment is required of platinum plug, bend only the ground electrode. DO NOT TOUCH the platinum pads. Use only a proper gapping tool and check with a taper gap gauge.

CAUTION: Cleaning of the platinum plug may damage the platinum tip.
 
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#4 ·
My son will appreciate this info when he does his 97 3.3. Thanks much! ;D
 
#6 · (Edited)
Here is the standard labor scale for a tune-up on a grand caravan or town and country. Parts, well, that is a different story. Most shops will have at least a 10% markup. So, a $100.00 part that you can buy yourself at the parts store will cost you $110.00 through a shop. They make money on both ends most of the time.

There a shops that charge less than the standard rate per hour, in order to keep customers coming in.
 

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#7 ·
I have changed the plugs on the rear bank on a '94 3.3 without taking anything off except if i recall the alternator support bracket

It was however, a PITA job and not one that I will surely want to do again in a hurry

Which leads me to believe that anyone desiring a engineering/design career in the auto industry should have to serve a 1 year sentence in an auto repair shop

that would certainly change their way of thinking
 
#10 ·
I just replaced the plugs and wires in our 2004 GC with 3.8L after exhibiting misfire symptoms (confirmed by dealer). Front three took five minutes, but the back three only took 20 minutes more but requires deep socket and 6" extension. Long arms and some tolerance for pain also required, but having everything in easy reach on your right side makes it possible to jam your left arm behind the engine from the top. Was able to get a vacuum nozzle back there and torque the plugs as well. Dealer wanted $400. I did it for $90 and an hour of time including trip to NAPA.
 
#11 ·
I believe on the 02's and up the alternator bracket is no longer in the way.

I have done it both on my 02 and 05 3.8's.

Made sure everything was clean w/compressed air
I just reached in from the right side of the engine with my right hand. It took maybe 15 minutes
 
#12 ·
I just changed the plugs and wires on my '02 3.3 and didn't have to take ANYTHING off. i just reached my right arm around to the back plugs with no problem at all, the whole job took probably a 1/2 hour and i took my time. i was afraid of this job because of all the horror stories, while it wasn't the easiest plug change, it is definately not the hardest.
 
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