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98 2500 5.9 gas cranks no start

4K views 20 replies 3 participants last post by  nst115 
#1 ·
So I have a 2500 gas 5.9. Bought a year ago and did the plenum with the aluminum plate as it was bad then. Ran fine until two weeks ago then it died while ddriving in town(about 25mph).
I have a superchip from my other pickup so I hooked it up and code said tps. Towed it to my shop came back later with new tps and tried to start. It fired right up before I changed it even. I had been having rough idle so I bought a IAC also and put both in that night.
After that it started fine but idle was at 2500 and wouldn't come down. Pulled the new IAC off, cleaned the old one and the throttle body real good and put that one back on. Idle now at 1000-1100. Pops up IAC code all the time now too. Ordered IAC from different store.

Fast forward to yesterday. Truck won't start. Same as before cranks fine and fast but won't start. Had just received the IAC in the mail but before I put it on I checked codes again. Now it had both tps signal low and the IAC codes. Put in the new iAC and a new tps with no change. Still just cranks. Clear the codes, turn truck off and back on and they pop up right away again.

I looked on here and found a thread about some plug on transmission causing a tps code for someone I unplugged all mine and made sure they went together good, no change. Unhooked battery a few times to try to reset stuff no change. Why does my hood light interior lights fan and everything still work with the battery totally unhooked??

I'm not sure what to try next.

92000 miles on this one.
 
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#2 ·
And to add to the bad day I had the truck sitting outside my shop in town unlocked with toolbox on drivers seat yesterday. Today I have no toolbox. They even left the screwdrivers that were sitting on the console that I used to put on the tps. I guess they just needed the other 298 pieces.
 
#3 ·
So I'm not sure what the official way is of checking for spark or for fuel. I cranked some and then pulled a couple plugs. All totally dry. Held them against the exhaust Mani and a engine mount point and couldn't get any spark to show while cranking.
I swapped several relays around with the one that people say can be a problem. Can't think of the letters it is right now sorry. I'm back at the house.
Tried clearing the codes several times. All the engine light does when the programmer says it cleared them is flashes off and then back on.
And now tonight when I pull the battery negative the lights all die like they are supposed to. I guarantee I had both cables off earlier today and everything was still lit up and the inside fan would run. Now it won't with just the negative off..?? I wouldn't think it could do anything without a battery. Is there another internal one somewhere?
 
#6 ·
So I picked up a cam and crank position sensor. Put on the cam sensor, no change. Still just cranks really nice. I can't find where the other one is located!
I tried following some descriptions from people on here but can't see anything. Either the store have me the wrong one or I'm blind.. What part of the engine should I be looking at?
 
#7 ·
Behind valve cover ish at #8 cyl (pass side); bolts onto block, but "protrudes" thru notch in trans bellhousing: and ya, you guessed it, can be a PITA to change.
 
#8 ·
p0505 is idle air control motor circuit

p0122 is throttle position sensor voltage low

Since you replaced these i dont think you cleared to code out of the pcm. Sometimes just disconnecting the battery terminals isn't enough you have to touch the terminals together.
Why does my hood light interior lights fan and everything still work with the battery totally unhooked??
It shouldn't do this! If is was running it would but not when off. Do you have a duel battery set up? Alarm? Something is supplying the voltage. ??? You need to find it before touching the terminals together.
 
#9 ·
It just did that the one day. I cannot get it to do that again. Now unhook either terminal and it's all dead like it's supposed to be. Don't have the duel battery. Have never seen any alarm stuff but I don't know.
I'll try touching them together yet too.
 
#10 ·
I remember in the past the hood light still worked when the battery was totally out of the pickup. I took it out to clean up corrosín once. Like I said I cannot get anything to stay lit up now. Only thing I changed was to push it inside the shop instead of outside.
 
#12 ·
Put on the crank sensor. Pita 35 min anger control session right there.
No change. Truck still pops up same codes as fast as I can clear them. Cranks but doesn't fire. Where is the best place to get a PCM? If that doesn't fix it maybe a big fire will.
 
#13 ·
I would check a few more things before replacing the pcm. Did you check all the fuses in the engine compartment? Did you pull one of the wires to see if you are getting spark? I would check voltage on the tps just to see what it is and getting out of it. Are you hearing the pump prime when you turn the key?
 
#14 ·
Sorry been to busy to work on the piece for a bit.

Haven't checked all fuses for sure. Will do that.

Pulled wire could see no spark. Will check with multimeter also yet.

Fuel pump primes for a couple seconds.

Mechanically inclined friend looked at it and thinks its ignition system somewhere. Possibly coil.
 
#15 ·
Check for 12v at the coil.
 
#18 ·
So I had power at only one prong on the ASD relay with key on or off. Figured that wasn't right so I changed ignition switch.
Now have power at two places with the key on.

Sad thing is the truck still has no power at coil that I can find. Still cranks just the same.
 
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