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Fuel Pump replacement-B250 1990 - Fuel Pump Module

12K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  lilredex 
#1 ·
I need to drop the tank this weekend and change the fuel pump on 318 FI B250 Van-In Tank pump

A couple of questions:

1. I bought a Airtex last weekend from Autozone Is the Carter fuel pump better from Napa/Carter or Bosch or Delphi?? Local Dealers can get an OEM for about $50.00 more

2. Does anyone make a whole fuel pump module anymore? Local dealer said NAPA sells a complete module but I cannot find it. Worth the time to look around and also replace?

3. Is a standard 9/16 Deep socket OK for the tank removal? Craftsman Deep 9/16" Or is there a special deep well socket I need. I read somehwere that people made their own.

4. Is jack standing the van necessary for tank clearance removal. This is a gravel parking lot fix on the side of a business. I am planning on using 6' cam straps to assist in raising and lowering the tank-I dont think I will jack clearance for the raising or lowering.

Thanks for your help.
Dave
 
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#2 ·
I have an '89 with a 36 gallon tank. My fuel pump quit in a small town in Baja California. My gas tank was almost full at the time.

I believe The replacement from an Autozone in Ensenada was a Carter. I don't believe it is till '94 or '96 that the whole assembly needs to replaced at once and has high failure rates unless it is OEM.

You might be able to drop the tank without jacking up the rear, but it will be much, much more difficult. You need to reach around it and undo the fuel lines on the top. And they don't like to come off, or on.

The straps will certainly help to lower and raise it, just empty it as much as possible. If Arturo didn't have a long enough socket the job would have been that much more difficult.

One of my bolts broke, so do yourself a favor and spray penetrant on them and wire brush them before attempting to loosen.

Doing it on gravel was the nightmare. I busted out a couple of tarps, and laid some plywood over the areas where the jacks had to go.

Siphoning off the gas was not working (well going very slowly) due to the ball check valve, so we had to lower the the tank mostly full, onto a jack with plywood and roll the tank out. Unless the vehicle was jacked up this could not have happened.

If My fuel pump quits again, After I lower the tank, I'm cutting an access hole in the floor.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the heads up. Was his deep socket just a standard 1/2" drive/9/16" deep socket? I am going to hit the penetrating lube on the parts tomorrow before i try to work them off on Sat morn.

I hear you on raising the vehicle. I was thinking about vehicle ramps instead of the stands due to the gravel but I am sure it is a pain to tow on with a dead vehicle. I will probably use plywood for stands and a jack. I guess it is necessary to have the jack anyway if the straps dont work out.

Thanks again,
 
#5 ·
I think we had to use a 1/2 inch deep socket and grab the flats of the socket with channel locks. It was a while ago. Get a nice wire brush you can clean the threads with. If it starts getting tight, tighten it back up a bit and brush it again.

A floor jack, plywood, and the van as high as the jackstands on the axle will allow , will ease your coming headache.

Mine had about an inch of fine dust in the well where the assembly goes. If you've got compressed air, blast the area before attempting to undo the fuel lines.

Careful to not damage the seal from the filler tube, or plan on replacing it anyway.

Remember if your working on gravel and drop a tool, it could spark, and you are under a gas tank filled with vapor. Take precautions.
 
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