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trans going south at 160k

3K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  key99 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, after wheeling hard this past weekend the trans seems to be going out.
Drives normal at 1/2 pedal or less, when floored it slips like it's in neutral...makes pulling out into traffic and towing interesting to say the least.

Should i have it rebuilt for $2k by a reputable shop or install a replacement?

I can't really part with the truck as everything else on it is solid (besides the paint) and I won't be able to get much over $3k out of it if I sell.
 
#4 ·
could order an upgrade from transdepot in florida
 
#5 ·
I guess it would depend on how much confedence you have in a self install and how much the price difference is. If the difference isnt to great i would have a shop do it only because i would hate to put a new one in myself and then have to pull it cause something isnt working right.
 
#7 ·
I guess it would depend on how much confedence you have in a self install and how much the price difference is. If the difference isnt to great i would have a shop do it only because i would hate to put a new one in myself and then have to pull it cause something isnt working right.
True.
 
#6 ·
I was browsing, I can order a slightly better than stock unit for about $1600, a bone stock replacement would be $1400 plus $60 shipping (no core charge).

The shop I am going to use wants to look at it before they give me an estimate, but I'm expecting it to be about $2k when it's all done.
I don't really want to pull it myself, but I will if I have to. Removing 2 driveshafts, the T-case with all the linkage, etc is a pain in the ass.
Not to mention I'll have to cut up my custom exhaust to get the trans out.

Do I need an upgrade if the original lasted 160k miles?
I installed a deep pan with heat sinks, fluid temp gage, and an aux cooler.
Truck is used for pulling a 4500 pound trailer a couple times a month, and the occasional wheeling trip.
 
#8 ·
If you are ordering it locally then it may pay off for a better then stock one but if it is being shipped and something goes bad then you may have to pay for the return shipping and that could end up being more costly in the long run. The hard parts may be a non-issue but the electronics in our tranny's are what would worry me, that's just my way of thinking. Keep us posted on which way you go and what and who you get the tranny from.
 
#9 ·
Will do. The trans shop wants to look at it before they will give me an estimate, and I will most likely keep driving it until it gets really bad.
Bad timing as my friend needs my help moving from OK to TX soon...
And the more I think about fooking with all the linkage and corroded bolts the more inclined I am to let the trans shop do it...unless it's insanely expensive labor-wise.
 
#10 ·
My 93 dakota trans 318 lasted 167k before I felt it started slipping. Then traded it in for the ram in 2007
 
#11 ·
my trans shop wanted $600 to r&r. that was only just to sneak in a new stall speed converter.
imo! dodge trans have their faults. most mechs talk about fluid circuits that starve the converter or lack of pressure in reverse. its the valve body that mainly needs to be revised. the hard parts are ok and primarily a simple replacement is good enough with a minor shift kit added. higher line pressure/ proper reverse circulation/ and pressure in park is what you need to look for.
 
#12 ·
The trans shop wants to look at it before they will give me an estimate,
Make sure you find out exactly what the issue is before you shell out $$$. Are you getting any codes? What does the fluid look/smell like. The check valve on the tranz line have been known to stick restricting fluid to the tranz. Wouldn't hurt to drop the pan and take a look. Check the simple stuff first before you think it needs a complete rebuild.
 
#14 ·
No codes, fluid is still bright red and no burn smell.
I haven't removed the factory lines to the radiator, but I can do that to eliminate the chance of the check ball being the issue.
I raised line pressure via the TV cable when I purchased it, and I let it warm up in 'N' so the fluid circulates.
I drove it yesterday and it drove fine, that was only about 5 miles tho...maybe the check valve sticks when the fluid gets hot?

In my old truck I chopped the metal lines back and replaced the section with the check valve with some hydraulic line & hose clamps. Might do the same to this one before I take it in.
 
#13 ·
You did good to get a Dodge transmission past 100K with no issues; mine failed at 69,000 miles and cost me $1,830 and then had issues again a few years later. I bid out transmission when the weather is colder because when it's hotter the shops are flooded; at least here in the South. Make sure you specify replacement parts, my shop attached an aftermarket Transmission Radiator to my existing Trans. Radiator due to all the metal filings in the old T. Radiator and then he made excuses about the OEM being inferior to the Hughes aftermarket however the one he installed was too small and his own tech. swapped it for a much larger one that is still half the size of the OEM/Mopar.
 
#15 ·
Find a donor truck for the bellhousing,computer and other stuff and drop in an NV4500. Then plan on keeping this truck for a very long time. That's the plan for my truck anyhow. After that buy the Borgson system for the steering to keep the whole thing going down the road safely.
 
#16 ·
I researched that once, then decided to get the auto rebuilt when time.
It's easier to wheel an auto and drive in traffic.
And after swapping my first pickup from auto to manual (it was a Ferd) I know first hand what a PITA it can be. The only reason I did it is the A4LD was not staying together more than 6 months at a time.
 
#17 ·
Determined it only slips in first, at 3/4-WOT, when at operating temperature; not sure what that indicates.
I am going to disconnect the cooler lines and remove the check ball that's located near the coupler, then reconnect them. Maybe this will help circulation enough to let me get a little more service life out of the trans.
 
#18 ·
before you do that. try to raise your line pressure. w/ the truck off adjust the tv cable for wot. dis the cable. hold the throttle open. remove the slack in the adjustment with the cable all the way open, "to the stops" reassemble. make sure the throttle stop is the final determination and not the tv gable though practically all the way out.
this should increase your holding pressure on each gear.
 
#19 ·
chizzle1 said:
Determined it only slips in first, at 3/4-WOT, when at operating temperature; not sure what that indicates
Depending on selector position, might be overrunning clutch (sometimes called "one way clutch", or "sprag").

... This is from tactransmans "sticky">>

>> SLIPS IN LOW GEAR "D" ONLY, BUT NOT IN MANUAL 1 POSITION
Overrunning Clutch Faulty. Replace overrunning clutch.


... IMO, if OC is faulty, you could "learn to live with it"; by using "manual 1" in situations where it might slip.
... As spun said, raising the line pressure might/could help; myself, wouldn't go too much above normal, butttttttt
 
#20 ·
i have run with mine like this for years. the trans-go kit is a line pressure booster and the sonnax kit also does the same. the 46re is just crying out for more line pressure.
i just make sure the tb stops the action before the tv cable does. maybe i have 1/16th slack left for the tv in wot.
not quite a shift kit firm shift, but it does snap into gear quick.
when i did the check ball delete i had adverse effects
 
#21 ·
i have run with mine like this for years. the trans-go kit is a line pressure booster and the sonnax kit also does the same. the 46re is just crying out for more line pressure.
i just make sure the tb stops the action before the tv cable does. maybe i have 1/16th slack left for the tv in wot.
not quite a shift kit firm shift, but it does snap into gear quick.
when i did the check ball delete i had adverse effects
I ran my 97 with the TV adjusted for higher pressure the entire time I owned it (13 years), and I adjusted this one higher after I purchased it.
Too much causes it to downshift frequently though, specially from 3 to 2.
I'll test the manual 1 theory next time I drive it.

Could you elaborate on what problems you had when you deleted the check ball?
 
#22 ·
because of the check ball delete:
i had a slow to engage 1st gear. and longer so in the winter.
in reverse the truck wouldnt roll at all for a few seconds, worse yet- till the cooler filled and the circulation got pumped up.
i really started to worry about running the trans is some kinda dry condition till the cooler was pressurized and the circulation was almost normal.
after all 46re dont pump up in park. so to counter this mod i had to warm up the truck in neu, or pay out for a shift kit mod.
 
#23 ·
because of the check ball delete:
i had a slow to engage 1st gear. and longer so in the winter.
in reverse the truck wouldnt roll at all for a few seconds, worse yet- till the cooler filled and the circulation got pumped up.
i really started to worry about running the trans is some kinda dry condition till the cooler was pressurized and the circulation was almost normal.
after all 46re dont pump up in park. so to counter this mod i had to warm up the truck in neu, or pay out for a shift kit mod.
The lesser of 2 evils then, I just don't want a plastic check ball to cause a restriction in pressure.
I let mine warm up in N anyways. I should get to put some miles on it this weekend, I am curious to see if the 'manual 1' theory fixes the slip during hard acceleration when warm.
 
#24 ·
Okay, so the trans does not slip in manual 1 at any throttle position, will even spin the tires.
Only slips in 'D' when stopped (in first) starting out at more than 1/2 throttle, or when downshifting from 2-1 at WOT...so that means I'll need to manual shift it from 1-2 when towing, or trying to jump out into traffic.

Hoping I can get a few thousand more miles out of it without any hard parts damage.
 
#25 ·
chizzle1 said:
Okay, so the trans does not slip in manual 1 at any throttle position, will even spin the tires.
Only slips in 'D' when stopped (in first) starting out at more than 1/2 throttle, or when downshifting from 2-1 at WOT.

..so that means I'll need to manual shift it from 1-2 when towing, or trying to jump out into traffic.

Hoping I can get a few thousand more miles out of it without any hard parts damage.
... Manual 1 has an extra element engaged (the rear band); now M1 helps your trans compensate for the failed Overrunning Clutch.

... When wheeling/towing etc with a good/normal trans;----

---- it's good to use M1, as trans is "stronger" with the extra element (rear band) engaged,
---- it's good to use M2, as trans is stronger with the extra element (OC) engaged.

... Use M1 as you said, keep bands adjusted, and, ya, tighter than normal tv adj.
 
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