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Dirty Looking Oil

5K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  sgbofav 
#1 ·
I now have 1700 miles on my mobil-1 oil and it is looking dirty.Is this normal do any of you mobil-1 user experience this? Is it a problem?I went to MOBIL-1 at 6300 miles and now have 8000 miles.Doesnt really smell burned but it is getting dark.Any suggestions or comments on this would be greatly appreciated.
 

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#2 ·
That's normal for any oil. I do have one question for you. I also switched to Mobil 1 and I lost 1 mpg. Did this also happen to you? Maybe it was because I only have 5,000 miles on my truck, but I thought that was odd. I was hoping for an increase in mpg, not a loss.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I gained 1 to 1.5 mpg and my truck runs 1 needle width cooler and the oil preasure gauge moved up to just past the center line.
 

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#5 ·
Oil Color has nothing to do with oils ability to lubricate. The only way to test your oil is by spectrographic analysis not color. I have 6300 miles on my oil in my Dakota and it is getting dark but I'm not worried because I just changed my filter and added one quart of oil. This keeps the oil clean of abrasive particles and the additives from the new quart keep the oil doing what its supposed to.

Chances are, all your experiencing is the detergent effect of synthetic oil. Although you don't have that many miles on your truck, regular oil will stain the inside of your engine with a light coating of combustion byproducts (including carbon). These deposits will be cleaned off of the inside of the engine by the detergent effect of Synthetic oil causing oil discoloration.

Don't sweat it.
 
#6 ·
thanks for the replies should i go 6000 miles on every oil change but change the filter at 3000 and add a quart?Rember im running 5w/30 MOBIL-1 with mobil-1 filter
 
#7 ·
The Amsoil guy is right. I switched to synthetic when I bought my truck used with 64,000 miles on it and the first couple of times I changed it the oil got dark pretty quick. After third change oil has stayed clean looking but I have not noticed a difference in mileage either way.
 
#8 ·
I work for an oil change center so I know what the problem is!

Synthetis Burns at a higher temputre rate than conventional oil so it will appear to be more dirty before 3,000 miles. When you switch to synthetic more deposits are building up on your valves due to the quicker breakdown in the oil additive package and base oil! You all need to add what is called a engine oil cleaner and engine flush evey oil change when you use synthetic oil.
Most cars DO NOT REQUIRE Synthetic oil to be used! It is there as an option to extend your oil change 2,000 more miles than Conventional oil. The catch is the oil filter STILL needs to be changed EVERY 3,000 MILES since it can not filter dirt effectivly past this point! Hence why your oil WILL look dirty! Synthetic oil is great for better protection against deposits but the otherside of the coin is you need to keep the engine CLEAN MORE OFTEN to make it work right. I have had an ACOA certification for five years now so I know about some lubirication issues.
 
#9 ·
moparbob said:
I work for an oil change center so I know what the problem is!

Synthetis Burns at a higher temputre rate than conventional oil so it will appear to be more dirty before 3,000 miles. When you switch to synthetic more deposits are building up on your valves due to the quicker breakdown in the oil additive package and base oil! You all need to add what is called a engine oil cleaner and engine flush evey oil change when you use synthetic oil.
Most cars DO NOT REQUIRE Synthetic oil to be used! It is there as an option to extend your oil change 2,000 more miles than Conventional oil. The catch is the oil filter STILL needs to be changed EVERY 3,000 MILES since it can not filter dirt effectivly past this point! Hence why your oil WILL look dirty! Synthetic oil is great for better protection against deposits but the otherside of the coin is you need to keep the engine CLEAN MORE OFTEN to make it work right. I have had an ACOA certification for five years now so I know about some lubirication issues.
I'm going to respectfully disagree with you on a few issues.

You don't need to run an engine flush every oil change with premium synthetics. Maybe this is true with cheap poor quality synthetics but not true with Amsoil or Mobil 1

Oil additive packages do not break down faster in premium PAO synthetics. In fact the additive packages last longer. This is why extended oil change intervals are possible and commonly used. there are thousands of oil analysis reports that prove premium synthetics can run for 10,000 to 20,000 plus miles with just one good oil filter replacement not "one oil filter every 3000 miles" like you have been taught. I'm referring to the use of the most efficient oil filters like Amsoil SDF and Mobil 1 filters not the filters commonly used in the quick-lube industry.

I disagree with your deposits on the valve theory because the high detergency of premium synthetics will keep your engine cleaner . Most engines that use premium synthetics will be cleaner than engines that use petroleum.

If you want to see some oil analysis results for yourself, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and go to the UOA or used oil analysis forum.

Bill,
 
#10 ·
Bill,

I'm going to respectfully disagree with you on a few of you replied issues.

You don't need to run an engine flush every oil change with premium synthetics. Maybe this is true with cheap poor quality synthetics but not true with Amsoil or Mobil 1

Then explain how the oil remains dirty when using a Standard oil filter After 5,000 miles?

An oil system cleaner CAN be used to HELP elimiate deposits. I did overexagerrate a little since I did not know I was speaking to someone in the same field as me- I do apologize!
The fact remains though you still can do this every oil change. It is NOT a requirement. I generally recommend it to my customers though as a "good idea if you switch or use Mobil 1 or synthetic oil regularly"! We do NOT carry the Mobil 1 filter since it costs WAY TOO MUCH money. Our company tried this and Customers compared the cost with the Mobil 1 filter VS. the standard oil change and the standard oil change was chosen every time even though we promoted the filter as better for the engine. People thought they weren't getting their money's worth for an extra $15.00. This is why the Oil cleaner is sold more since it only cost $8.00 to do a engine flush vs the Mobil 1 filter. Now you get why I said Every oil change.

Oil additive packages do not break down faster in premium PAO synthetics. In fact the additive packages last longer. This is why extended oil change intervals are possible and commonly used.

Point # 1 The package lasts longer, but the standard filter DOES
NOT!
Point # 2 Synthetic oil changes ARE REQUIRED EVERY 5,000 miles
no matter what brand is used!

There are thousands of oil analysis reports that prove premium synthetics can run for 10,000 to 20,000 plus miles with just one good oil filter!

Ask yourself would the average idiot do this?
Is this figure you claim put under WHAT type of driving condition-severe or daily stop and go traffic! Owners Manuals of ALL types almost always say and over-exagerrate an oil change is 5,000 to 7,500 miles This is ONLY for severe driving conditions. This means if you are going NON-STOP without ever shutting the engine off, or going across the country NON-STOP is ONLY when this applies.
Stop and Go traffic or daily driving conditions are recommended every 3,000 miles with CONVENTIONAL oil. Synthetic Oil is a bonus soultion if you do not change you oil reguarly when you are supposed to. It can help extend engine life and oil change intervals if used with a good filter CORRECTLY! Standard Filters (Fram and so on) no matter what brand require changing 3,000 miles including conditions where Mobil 1 or Synthetic oil is applied!

* *Mobil 1 filter and other extended life filters are not in this category!

I'm referring to the use of the most efficient oil filters like Amsoil SDF and Mobil 1 filters not the filters commonly used in the quick-lube industry.

See previous point above with **!

I disagree with your deposits on the valve theory because the high detergency of premium synthetics will keep your engine cleaner.

Synthetics are THINNER than regular Conventional oil! This is why it is recommended in colder climates- a better flow rate! There is a drawback to this, because it is thinner this type of oil will tend burn at a higher rate. Clyander valves get hotter during this process from the heat of the hotter oil, and a small buildup tends to form the older the oil gets. The additive package is what holds the oil together. The hotter the engine the more burning in the oil BASE. This is why it turns black or dark brown. This theroy has been tested time and again and probably is more true than most average people want to know or believe.

Most engines that use premium synthetics will be cleaner than engines that use petroleum.

This is true if the recommended oil change intervall is followed!

I hope I have cleared the air a little!
Moparbob.
 
#11 ·
Ummm.... Synthetic oils are not "thinner" than other oils. The weight rating will tell you that. 10W-40 is the same weight regardless of dyno or synthetic. The reason synthetics work so well in the winter is the consistency of the oil molecule. It is not effected as much by temps. It is also a more effecient conductor of heat, so it allows engines to run cooler. Ask any of us who run synthetics in motorcycles. Our air cooled machines run way cooler with Synths in them.
I agree that the filter needs to be changed regularly unless you have a higher quality oil filter such as an Amsoil filter.
You guys would flip if you saw what my '03 Accords owners manual says for changing the oil.
The first oil change is at 10,000 miles. The first true oil and FILTER change is at 20,000! Then I go to my Dodge and the dealer tells me that may area is in the "aggresive" catagory, so I need to change the oil every 3,000 miles. So, is my Hondas engine that much more refined than the Dodge? hmmmm.... High heat, high compression, 4 banger going 10K between changes, or my low rpm low compression 8c going every 3K. Doesn't make much sense to me.
Lube school huh? Down the hall and to the right is Voodoo 101 and Black magic 101. I think this subject has so many opiions that this thread could be debated forever with no clear winners.
 
#12 ·
Ten Myths About Synthetic Lubrication

First Published in National Oil and Lube News by Ed Newman

It's a fact of life that behavior is strongly influenced by what people believe, whether true or not. Numerous examples from history bear this out. For example, sailors were once fearful of sailing outside the sight of land less they would fall off the edge of the world. In the early 19th century, the train was considered dangerous because it was believed that if you traveled faster than 25 miles per hour, you would be traveling too fast to breathe. At a later date, the New York Times warned that electric light may cause blindness. Microwave ovens, automobiles and airplanes have had equally vociferous opponents.

Looking back, it is easy to laugh at some of these things people so firmly believed. But these people were not stupid. They were simply misinformed. In many instances they had simply drawn conclusions before all the facts were in. How easy it is to make the same mistake today. In our own time, synthetic motor oils have been the object of many misconceptions held by the general public. Many people, including some mechanics who ought to know better, have been misled by persistent myths that need to be addressed.



PARAMETERS OF THE DEBATE

Synthetic lubricants are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured from select basestocks and special purpose additives. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed in the laboratory, with each phase of their molecular construction programmed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.

In responding to objections most commonly raised against synthetics it is important to establish the parameters of the debate. When speaking of synthetic motor oils, this article is defending the synthetic lubricants which have been formulated to meet the performance standards set by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (The first such synthetic motor oil to meet these industry-accepted tests for defining engine oil properties and performance characteristics was AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-40 in 1972.)

Many people with questions about synthetics haven't known where to turn to get correct information. Is it super oil or snake oil? Some enthusiasts will swear that synthetics are capable of raising your specialty car from the dead. On the other hand, the next fellow asserts that synthetics will send your beloved car to an early grave. Where's the truth in all this?

In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth#5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer. But, beware, many of the other "syntheitcs" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) syntheitcs (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum basestocks begin to react with each other, forming sludges, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge - ingested dirt and water dilution - can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system resoectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum oils are similar compounds and neither si damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example SG/CE). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty. In point of fact, in the over 25 years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic basestocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution and acids (the by-products of combustion) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However , by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical that conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

CONCLUSIONS

Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.

But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.



Here is some info on filtration from Amsoil
The Importance of Engine Filtration

Compared to microscopic dirt particles, your engine is a Goliath, roaring with heat and energy as it converts raw fuel into horsepower. But despite all this power, your engine is extremely vulnerable to the threat of microscopic engine dirt. In fact, if unchecked, this tiny menace will dramatically erode your engine's performance and can eventually cripple it beyond repair.

THE PROBLEMS

Engine Wear - Automotive experts agree that dirt is the number one cause of engine wear. At first glance, it does not seem possible. Engine dirt particles are so small- mere dust specs- and an engine is a highly sophisticated piece of machinery, crafted from the most durable metal alloys. How can these minute particles bring down such a high-tech giant? The answer lies in the fact that dirt particles are extremely abrasive. They consist of razor-like flakes of road dust and airborne grit drawn into the engine through the air intake, as well as manufacturing scarf and wear metal particles generated inside the engine. These particles are carried by the oil into the precision clearances between bearings and other moving parts. Once they work in between these parts, they grind and gouge surfaces, altering clearances, and generating more abrasive debris. As this wear cycle continues, precision components become progressively sloppy and fatigued until they fail altogether.

Oil Degradation - In addition to physically assaulting engine components, dirt and other contaminants work to degrade the oil that provides vital engine lubrication. Sooty particles generated during combustion can be forced past piston rings and into the oil. These particles act like tiny sponges, absorbing critical additives and shortening oil life. Soot also wreaks havoc with viscosity by causing oil to thicken. And in the presence of moisture, common by-products of combustion will react chemically to produce corrosive and rust-producing acids.

THE SOLUTION

AMSOIL Oil and Air Filters - Filtration is the key to preventing costly repairs caused by engine dirt. Filtration is simply a method of removing contaminants by trapping and holding them outside the system of oil circulation. In order for filtration to be truly effective, however, it must be able to capture contaminants of all types and sizes.

AMSOIL has developed a complete line of sophisticated filtration products designed to offer the best protection available against virtually all harmful engine contaminants. With an AMSOIL 2 Stage Air Filter, an AMSOIL Duty Oil Filter and an AMSOIL By-Pass Oil Filter, your engine can run long and hard with outstanding protection against engine dirt.



AMSOIL SDF OIL FILTERS

Full-flow filters install directly into the line of oil circulation. The full flow of oil passes through the filter as the oil journeys between the oil pump and engine. A full flow filter must be capable of removing and holding contaminants without obstructing oil flow to the engine.

Most conventional filters on the market use a thin layer of porous filter paper as their filtration media, which compromises their ability to catch fine particles. In addition, these filters have almost no extended cleaning ability since their media have a low capacity for storing dirt.

Because of their limited filtering area, most conventional paper filters display good flow characteristics but are restricted in their capacity and longevity. They become obstructed relatively quickly, opening the relief valve and allowing unfiltered oil into the engine. Their lightweight construction also makes them susceptible to degradation.

AMSOIL SDF FILTERS WORK BETTER - LONGER!

AMSOIL Super Duty Filters (SDF) feature an advanced fiber media offering the ready flow of oil hard-working engines demand with superior capacity, efficiency and service life to that offered by conventional paper oil filters. In fact, SDF has over a 75% better combined efficiency/capacity rating than other popular oil filters as tested according to the Society of Automotive Engineers industrial standards.

The AMSOIL SDF may be used for intervals of 12,500 miles or six months (whichever comes first) in gasoline engine applications.



THE AMSOIL SPIN-ON BY-PASS OIL FILTER

Absolute Protection from Engine Dirt

Assurance of Analytically Clean Oil

WHY ANOTHER FILTER? Even the best full flow-filter can't do it all.

Any full flow filter must allow oil to pass through it quickly to keep the engine from starving for oil. Advances in auto technology and more compact engine designs place increasing demands on these filters; to keep from creating a circulation bottleneck they filter out only the coarser particles, and feature relief valves that open when the engines demand for lubrication can't be ignored.

But the smallest grit that passes through- road dust, manufacturing scarf, and engine metal-flake in the 5-20 micron range - accounts for up to 60% of all engine wear. These microscopic particles closely match the precision clearances between critical engine components; they can enter the spaces between bearings, rings, and other components, to damage metal surfaces, altering tolerances, fatiguing components and generating additional debris.

Automobile engines are also susceptible to damage related to water formation, something a full flow filter is powerless against. Water enters the oil either as blowby combustion product of fuel ignition, or as condensed moisture from air drawn into the engine through the air intake. Water causes metal surfaces to rust; it also reacts with other blowby contaminants to produce corrosive acids that attack the engine, contributing to further friction, wear, debris, and oil degradation.



The AMSOIL Solution- By-Pass Filtration

Unlike a full-flow filter, the AMSOIL By-Pass Filter is situated outside of the main line of oil circulation; it taps into the line to bleed off and clean only a portion of the oil at a time. The AMSOIL By-Pass Filter retains the oil longer and does a more thorough job of removing contaminants without obstructing flow. You still need a full-flow filter, of course, because oil must circulate continuously. But with an AMSOIL By-Pass Filter drawing 10% of your system's capacity, all the oil in a six-quart system will be filtered to analytical purity in about five minutes, at an average engine speed equivalent to 45 mph.

The differences between the AMSOIL By-Pass Filters and others are the unique design of the filtering media and the patented construction of the filter element. Our high-capacity filtration medium is a special blend of virgin wood and cotton fibers formed into disc, stacked, and compressed. The center tube is all-steel, perforated for oil flow and wrapped with a fine mesh cotton screen. All dirt particles down to one-tenth of a micron in size are trapped, and the medium's thirsty cellulose fibers can remove up to a pint of water. Channeling is eliminated with the inclusion of a hydraulic follower plate activated by a sophisticated internal pressure system.



The AMSOIL Dual-Remote Oil Filtration System- For Optimum OIL FILTRATION and Maximum SERVICE ACCESSIBILITY

The AMSOIL Dual Remote Oil Filtration System replaces the standard full-flow system with a combination full-flow/by-pass system using a remote mounting assembly.

The mount couples an AMSOIL Full Flow Oil Filter with an AMSOIL Spin-On By-Pass Filter; it takes oil from the engine and returns it without the use of multiple fittings or extra return holes in the oil pan or valve cover. The mount and filters are installed in an accessible area of the engine compartment.

A specially-manufactured, spin-on casting with threading adapters is simply screwed onto the engine block's filter nipple, replacing the old full-flow filter. In-and-out ports in the casting and two flexible oil lines connect this adapter to the remote mount.

Remote placement of the filtration units allows larger oil filters to be used, and increases sump capacity - dramatically extending the oil's useful service life and protecting your wise investment in AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil. The recommended replacement interval for the AMSOIL By-Pass Oil Filter is 25,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) or longer if using oil analysis. The Super Duty Full Flow filter is changed at 12,500 mile or 6 month intervals (whichever comes first) for gasoline engines.

Once the Dual-Remote Filtration System is installed if you elect to use oil analysis testing then you DO NOT need to change your engine oil unless oil analysis testing results indicates you need to. Test samples are easily pulled from the dipstick tube with an AMSOIL pump into a 3 oz bottle and then put into a postage paid box mailed to Oil Analyzers Inc. This is typically performed every 20,000 miles or every year, whichever comes first for passenger vehicles and light duty trucks. You may very well travel several hundred thousands of miles without needing to change you oil when using oil analysis testing. It really is a simple process and provides an accurate analysis of your engine's internal condition. Oil analysis testing is common practice with commercial, fleets and heavy-diesel equipment that you can put to use for your benefit as well.

Bill,
 
#13 ·
Here's some more info about oil color


It is a common misconception that an oil's color is an indication of how dirty it is. This is absolutely NOT TRUE. The color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability. Most oil and especially diesel engine oil will turn black in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles. The ONLY way to accurately determine an oil's lubricating value or contamination level is through (spectrographic) oil analysis. Oil analysis is common practice used regularly in commercial, industrial and fleet operations and can also be used for passenger cars, light trucks or any other application. In addition oil analysis will also determine the exact pars per million (ppm) of wear metals in your oil which provides an indication of any abnormal wear or specific components that need mechanical inspection in addition to checking for any fuel, water or glycol contamination. *At the end of this section you will find a listing of what oil analysis testing checks for.

The useful life of an engine oil is dependent on several factors such as the quality of the oil, type of fuel, equipment condition, type and operating environment of the equipment and, most important, the type of filtration used. The filtration system and the oil are vital tools for preserving engine life. A highly efficient filter is essential to protect an engine by removing both liquid and abrasive contaminants held in suspension by a high quality premium oil such as AMSOIL. When using AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants for extended drain intervals the AMSOIL Super Duty Filter must be changed at 12,500 miles or 6 months for gas engines and 10,000 miles or 6 months for diesel engines.

If the AMSOIL Dual-Gard or Dual-Remote By-Pass Filtration Systems are used then the AMSOIL Super Duty full flow engine oil filter must be changed at the same intervals as specified above and the by-pass filter(s) changed as indicated by oil analysis results. The oil does not need to be changed when using by-pass filtration unless oil analysis testing indicates it is necessary.


* Oil Analysis Report Items Include:

-sample #, date sampled, date tested, unit #, engine make, model, year, oil brand, viscosity grade, sump capacity, make up oil added, type of filtration, last filter change

- component miles, oil miles, last oil change miles

- % presence of gylcol, water, fuel

- viscosity @40 deg. C. and at 100 deg. C.

- % solids

- soot, oxidation %, NOX %, TBN, TAN

- % iron, chromium, lead, copper, tin, aluminum, nickel, silver, manganese, silicon, boron, sodium, magnesium, calcium, barium, phosphorous, zinc, molybdenum, titanium, vanadium and cadmium

- recommendations and additional test results
 
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