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Taking it down

552 views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  Neil F. 
#1 ·
Just bought my 98 Durango 4X4 and I would like to know what the deal is with lowering..how hard or easy is it and what is the ride like...I know with my 92 X you had to have blocks because of the leaf suspension and it was a shitty right is it the same way with the suspension on the Durango?
 
#2 ·
Blocks and reduce the tension on the torsion bars. You may not want to go down more than one inch. Some people have reported problems with the ride with three inches. Here is how:

You need to check what axle you have. Durangos are built with two different size axles. 3" and 3 1/2. It does not matter if it is 2wd, 4x4 or R/T. I used a steel lowering block kit by DJM. It was the 1" steel block kit for the Dakota R/T. The Dak R/T has the heavy duty axle which is 3 1/2" dia. The 3 1/2 has a 12 bolt octagon shaped differential cover. The 3" has a 10 bolt cover. Or measure the distance between the U-bolts. The 3 1/2" inch U-bolts are also a bit larger in diameter so the shock plate holes need to be enlarged a bit. 3 1/2" block kits are tough to find. I don't have the part number with me I got it through stylinconcepts.com. They are cheaper than straight from DJM. I did not cut the rear bump stops. The fronts have to be cut. I could tell the front suspension was softer when I cranked down on the torsion bars. Bumps were less jarring. Like I've said, I have Hotchkis Sway bars and Bilstein shocks that I believe help a lot with the front end. I admit I think 2" would be perfect. 3" is getting into the really low range. I was conservative with the 1" and I did not want to have to change out my Bilstein front shocks. I seen a few posts from people that did 3” and cannot get it aligned and have very floaty uncontrolled rides. I’ve had it lowered for over a year and no uneven tire wear or problem with alignment.
 
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