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Pulled the tune out and drove the truck for the first time, still even under a load at 1400 rpm it starts backfiring....you just slowly bring up the Rs as your going trying to get it out of that slump get it to about 2500 everything smooths out truck runs like a raped ape all the way to 6 grand which is the rev limit. The we put the tune back in.....truck couldnt even make 6 feet onto the street....constant backfire we had to just pull over take the tune out...even after the tune was out it has trouble like it had to re-learn its stock settings....one it did boom get out of that nasty slump babing it.....3 grand pin it boom were gone...going to post a video when my phone charges you'll see us get into the middle lane and you'll hear the backfiring...then you hear us get it to its sweet pot and hit it we start moving good then you'll see us really get on it.

I called Sean and talked to him on the phone he says its not his tune doing it and the backfiring happens with or without it, but with his tune and the slight advancing in timing it just cant run at all, but he sent me a new tune putting few things to stock, now the truck will still backfiring but with his tuner we can get it out of the slump area and mike said the truck accelerates even fast then before. so it liked something he did but still a slump area...dont get it.


Only thing I can think of is maybe the dizzy gear is just 1 tooth off????? idk i didnt get a picture of it mike says hes checked it its a hair past the notch...and to his defense the truck screams in the high RPMs so...im lost im taking it to a shop monday that is all about mopar there going to take a ride with me see if they can help but if they cant give me something off the top of there head its 90 bucks they will run some test for up to a hour.

video to come shortly

Ignition timing or valve timing? Which do you think is off? It's been a few years since I've tried to think about gas motors lol It's weird to me that it's not doing it through the whole range, but that also says to me timing is too high at lower rpm's.

Does it do it in neutral or park? Or just in gear?

If your dizzy rotor is pointing past the 1 cyl notch on TDC, then your 1 tooth off on the dizzy drive gear. Mark the base of the dizzy with the block. Pull the dizzy up just enough so the dizzy gear can jump the cam gear. Turn your rotor clockwise and it will walk the dizzy gear to the right spot. At tdc you should be about a notch before/below #1 cyl mark.

It dose it in park, neutral, and in gear....lee let me ask you this would it run so good in high rpms wait till you see this video, having troubleloading it....start tuned

smity, if you are having the problem in any gear, with whatever tune, then you definetly have a mechanical issue. i would compression test the motor to see what your issue is for starters, jmho. bikerlarry ps, remember the first rule of troubleshooting, K I S S principle.

its not in any gear...its just the rpm range in the take off....once you get up to 3grand and just goooo, your good let the truck hit 4th and lock up the OD and it just cruises...the timing is off I just got to figure out if its computer or the dizzy...like I said the computer advanced the timing 30* at 1400RPM! thats toooo much shouuld be 16-20 then once you hit 3,000 rpm the timing drops down and then climbs like it should depending on how hard your running the engine.

video is uploading now!

take a look couple links case it dont work.



http://s306.beta.photobucket.com/use...0f769.mp4.html

like I was saying at 1400 RPM the computer advances it to 30* timing....its like its just confused and jumps like that...thinks its running faster then it really is...once you like get it out of that and bring it up through 2400RPM and computer stops freaking out gets the timing right and bingoooo your off to the races....you'll see us just cruising in OD at 1400RPM at 45mph just cruising fineeeee....but come to a stop and have to start over.....your fighting the computer I jus dont get it.

you may have had a sensor go bad during the swap. i'm just speculating. my old fuel pump lasted 50 miles with the new motor. maybe pinched a wire on the install. check around the bell housing. look along the valve covers to see if anything is pinched. do you think the crank position sensor was booged when the engine was slid back into the trans? or perhaps the throttle position sensor had a dead spot in the stator. just guessing!
let me post a pict of the distributor. the ink mark on the cap is cylinder 1 position. the ink mark on the dist body is the rotor at tdc 1. the rotor should point to the cam position mark on the sensor at tdc 1.

yes- the rotor doesnt point to the cap position for tdc 1. its passed it pointing to the mark on the cam sensor. the rotor is directly over the cam sensor mark.

Those 2 posts just made me feel stupid

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Mike don't worry brother, its got everybody stumped! As far as the sensors go nothing looks pinched, but lucky me my step dad works in a shop so ill have him order those sensors for free try them if they don't work send them back if nothing changes.

Sean sent me anther tune this morning dumping more fuel in that rpm range will see what happens

Nobody said anything about how she runs once she runs lol.....what you guys think?

In case I'm not understanding, the bone stock tune/ecu makes it do the same thing? And after you get it cleared up in the higher rpms, and drop back down below 1400 (lets say 1000 rpm) cruising though a slow area, and get back in it again, it is fine? Or does it ALWAYS do it at 1400rpm, no matter what?

Yes with both the bone stock computer and with the tuner at the same points it acted up. only difference was with the tuner we couldn't get it out of that bad area of rpms. when were driving and locked up in OD cruising nothing happens you can pin it away we goooooo. come to a stop and let it idle and then try to accelerate through and we run into problems again.

Reason for the tuner not working is cause Sean has a few things enhanced and with that it just really messes the timing up or something idk but he has changed few things back to stock in the tune and we can now drive the truck with the tune on it. He just sent me a second tune dumping more fuel in that bad area to see if it helps....some people are telling me they think its running lean right there so idk will found out here in about a hour!

wish me luck.

try to get a exhaust video clip.

If it runs different with different timing in the computer your dizzy gear has to be off. We need a pic of the dizzy rotor at TDC. Once the trucks warm it should not be lean as it adjust air to fuel via o2 sensors unless WOT.

Originally Posted by madmikeismad

Those 2 posts just made me feel stupid

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

my intent was only to be as specific as possible.

smity? have you been able to look at the rotor position at tdc? it isnt easy to look back there on a finished engine.
anyone else have pictures of the same thing?
i know the base tabs should be about at clock position 9:15 & 3:15

go figure when i get there, I take one video of the exhaust for you guys....phone dies lol, forgot to charge it last night...so waiting for it to charge, then going back and setting the engine to TDC, I took the air box off so I could see and found out the backfiring cracked a big hole in the top of it, so got to get a new one know....

then im going to take the cap off and mark the notch on the bottom like you did and then mark the rotor position and take a picture and let you guys look...like I said mike swears he did that already so im just going to go double check his work show you guys and see if we can scratch that off the list.

Sean said the Dizzy maybe right but there might be something funning going on with the air/fuel ratio.

Till I get that air box though I dont want to run it to much

so am i understanding this right?

Are you running stock fuel injectors? Do you have any check engine lights?

24lb injectors....no check engine light...my truck would never throw a code easy...I remember the old engine would get water when it would rain on the cap...it would get pissed spit and spudder have to drive like 25 miles to finally get it to toss a code...then if it dryed up for a week the light would just go off one day