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1979 Power Cummins W200
- Posted: 11-29-2012, 07:28 AM
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Post #1
I have started my cummins swap officially. The CTD is torn right down, interior gutted, box and cab ready to be lifted off (waiting on tractor). So this Sunday it was finally the star of the swap's turn to get into the shop (79 W200). We loaded it on a friend's trailer and hauled it from my parents field to the shop I am borrowing. Like to see if I can get the 79 running as I was told it ran when it was parked over a decade ago. Reason being so I know that everything works before the W200 powertrain goes into a 88 W100 for offroading duty. So if I know it works now and it won't post-swap it was me and not the old girl lol.
Here are some pics of my 79 on the trailer and in the shop. The 3rd gen in the pic is my friend's truck, it's very trick. Even with all his fancy compu-diesel stuff he is sooo jealous of this build...having a 79 with a 1st gen 12 valve & 5 speed to boot.
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1979 W200 Power Wagon - getting full 1993 CTD powertrain swap (daily driver) 1988 W100 Power Ram - getting full 1979 W200 PW powertrain swap (trail rig) |
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Posted: 01-06-2013, 01:53 AM
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Post #2
I am ready to lift out the motor/tranny in the 79 W200, however I am unsure how to rig it for hoisting. The engine/tranny are 100% exposed as I have the body off, this will be a straight vertical lift. Just do not know what kind of rigging and where to attach it.
All advice appreciated.
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1979 W200 Power Wagon - getting full 1993 CTD powertrain swap (daily driver) 1988 W100 Power Ram - getting full 1979 W200 PW powertrain swap (trail rig) |
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Posted: 01-06-2013, 11:18 AM
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Post #3
So no one has ever pulled a 360 before I take it lol. I can't be the first to lift a dodge 5.9L motor....I read about bolting a short chain to the heads but can't find where exactly.
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1979 W200 Power Wagon - getting full 1993 CTD powertrain swap (daily driver) 1988 W100 Power Ram - getting full 1979 W200 PW powertrain swap (trail rig) |
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Posted: 01-06-2013, 11:42 AM
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Post #4
when I have pulled a motor I have bolted the chain to threaded holes in the front of one head and in the rear of the other head
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01 1500 5.9, Q/C, L/B, 4X4 Tanue cover Super chips Magnaflow S/i-D/o K&N cai Eagle alloy 102's BFG LT285/75r16 A/T's |
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Posted: 01-06-2013, 12:09 PM
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Post #5
__________________
2013 Ram 3500 CTD 6.7L 6 Speed Aisin, 4:10 LSD 2005 Jeep Liberty Sport 1991 Shadow ES Turbo Convertible 1984 Mini-Ram Van (Show Van) **TOTM April 2007** In museum now 73 Pro Street Duster.**VOTM July 2008/ April 2011** 1951 Dodge 3 Window Business Coupe **VOTM Feb 2011** 1992 Custom Built Harley FXSTC Show Bike 2008 Harley FLHTCU Ultra Classic DodgeTalk Administrator CTD Enthusiast Club Member #02 Names Carl, if you cut me I bleed Mopar Blue Past Trucks: 90 CC Dually CTD, 94 RC LB CTD, 95 CC SB 5.2L gas, 98 QC Dually CTD, 00 QC Dually CTD, 01 QC Off Road, 03 QC Dually CTD, 05 QC Dually CTD, 08 Dually CTD **ROTM April 2008**,10 CC Dually CTD, |
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Posted: 01-06-2013, 09:32 PM
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Post #6
Quote:
I seen the threaded holes today when I was looking for possible spots. Thanks.
__________________
1979 W200 Power Wagon - getting full 1993 CTD powertrain swap (daily driver) 1988 W100 Power Ram - getting full 1979 W200 PW powertrain swap (trail rig) |
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Posted: 01-06-2013, 09:52 PM
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Post #7
LOL, sorry, when you said 5.9 I figured you were talking about the CTD. As for the V8, you can either use the threaded holes in the end of the head or pull the last intake bolt on opposite corners of the intake and put longer bolts in there to hold the chain.
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2013 Ram 3500 CTD 6.7L 6 Speed Aisin, 4:10 LSD 2005 Jeep Liberty Sport 1991 Shadow ES Turbo Convertible 1984 Mini-Ram Van (Show Van) **TOTM April 2007** In museum now 73 Pro Street Duster.**VOTM July 2008/ April 2011** 1951 Dodge 3 Window Business Coupe **VOTM Feb 2011** 1992 Custom Built Harley FXSTC Show Bike 2008 Harley FLHTCU Ultra Classic DodgeTalk Administrator CTD Enthusiast Club Member #02 Names Carl, if you cut me I bleed Mopar Blue Past Trucks: 90 CC Dually CTD, 94 RC LB CTD, 95 CC SB 5.2L gas, 98 QC Dually CTD, 00 QC Dually CTD, 01 QC Off Road, 03 QC Dually CTD, 05 QC Dually CTD, 08 Dually CTD **ROTM April 2008**,10 CC Dually CTD, |
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Posted: 01-07-2013, 02:09 AM
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Post #8
i bought a lift pad that bolts onto the intake. the one i bought was like 15 bucks, has 3 rigging points on it so you can pick one for the angle you want. i pulled the trans and 318 out of my truck without having to take the hood off.
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast" 2" Lift 33" AT's 318 build currently in the works 208/727A w/3.21 gears |
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Posted: 01-07-2013, 07:29 PM
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Post #9
Got this week to figure it out. Won't have anything to lift until Friday or so. I have never removed an intake manifold before, is there much to it? Suppose it is just nuts and bolts.
I have the truck tore down to motor and frame and I am worried about taking something apart at this point hahaha
__________________
1979 W200 Power Wagon - getting full 1993 CTD powertrain swap (daily driver) 1988 W100 Power Ram - getting full 1979 W200 PW powertrain swap (trail rig) |
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Posted: 01-07-2013, 08:13 PM
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Post #10
an intake is one of the easiest things to take off a motor. just remove the perimeter bolts and may have to pry a little to get it loose. and i used the front head/rear head method to pull an engine.
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you like your truck more than you like me. sometimes i do 1978 d-150, 95 360, eddy 750, 4 speed auto, 9.25 rear. her name is sabrina GOD BLESS AMERICA www.waltonandjohnson.com www.marklevinshow.com www.michaelberry.com *DodgeTalk.com 318 Enthusiast Member #(129)* |
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Posted: 01-07-2013, 09:02 PM
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Post #11
its basically a giant metal plate with a gasket that needs to be sealed. nothing hard to it. if you are scared, get yourself a repair manual. that will walk you through anything you need to do.
__________________
1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast" 2" Lift 33" AT's 318 build currently in the works 208/727A w/3.21 gears |
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Posted: 01-07-2013, 11:43 PM
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Post #12
I try to be careful when removing the old gasket/sealant from the intake and block, so I don't scratch the surfaces. There's very few times I'll re-use a gasket since they can leak afterwards and causes me to hate my decision making skills.
Call me knit-picky, but I like to loosen the intake bolts one-by-one so it comes off evenly. It's probably not necessary. I'm just a creature of habit. Even tightening/loosening is just all-around good practice when removing/installing automotive parts. It's also a good idea to stuff the ports with clean rags to keep evil things out...
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1975 Dodge D100 -Clubcab "Adventurer Sport" -1-ton Dually -440 -Auto |
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Posted: 01-08-2013, 07:31 AM
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Post #13
Sounds like a piece of cake, thanks.
I have found that the most used way is using the front and rear facing bolt holes found on the heads. Going to try this first just need length of good chain. I am thinking that taking off intake and opening motor will be last resort now. Why open an engine so all the "evil things" that can get in there lol.
__________________
1979 W200 Power Wagon - getting full 1993 CTD powertrain swap (daily driver) 1988 W100 Power Ram - getting full 1979 W200 PW powertrain swap (trail rig) |
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