Best headers for 318? - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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#1 Old 12-19-2012, 03:10 PM
moparmanintn
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Best headers for 318?

So my truck has a 1970 318 with a mild cam intake and Holly 650? It already has a custom exhaust but for some reason no headers. Will I really be seeing any HP gains with headers?
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#2 Old 12-19-2012, 03:41 PM
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#3 Old 12-19-2012, 11:22 PM
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I personally believe headers aren't worth it unless your engine makes power over 5-6k rpms. It's believed that "shorty" headers won't make as big of a difference as "long-tube" headers.

The stock exhaust manifolds are more than adequate to channel gasses to the pipes. You can even mill-out the exhaust manifolds, if you feel it necessary.

Plus, headers are prone to warping/cracking...and they tend to rot-out faster...

Sure, they look awesome and have a different sound. On a close-to-stock motor? You will probably see a miniscule difference for a huge cost (buying headers AND installing them).

Unless you are building a drag racer or hardcore mud bogger, I believe there is money better spent elsewhere (like ignition, gearing, accessories, etc).

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#4 Old 12-20-2012, 12:22 AM
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Cool I'll stick with the manifolds then and put that money towrds a set of wheels
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#5 Old 12-23-2012, 09:26 PM
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only reason i bought long tube headers for my truck (the exact same hookers you are looking at) is because i have plans to turn a 318 into a beast of a motor. and for the sound too.

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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#6 Old 12-23-2012, 09:50 PM
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they are also a lot lighter than the iron manifolds....much much lighter. in regards to warpage, those hooker headers you are looking at are the thickest manifolds i could find.....well on the cheaper side anyway. i did find some more expensive headers that had thinner metal.

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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#7 Old 12-24-2012, 09:29 AM
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After further inspection I found I have a small pin hole from rust on the left side manifold so I think I'll just get them anyway. Well the funds allow it =)
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#8 Old 12-24-2012, 09:37 AM
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And a couple Mopar guys told me my engine is putting out a little more than I was thinking. About 310 hp so I may see a pretty good gain by adding headers.
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#9 Old 12-24-2012, 09:49 AM
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Ditch the two boat anchors on each side of you motor(exhaust manifolds)! Some people here think headers are only for race motors. That's far from the case. There is a big advantage with headers as to the stock manifolds.
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#10 Old 12-24-2012, 01:11 PM
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i agree with moparite, a lot of guys here will tell you that a 4 bbl carb, an updated intake, and headers will increase breathability of the engine. increasing HP as well as MPG's

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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#11 Old 12-24-2012, 01:12 PM
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what do you have going on with that 318 to be putting out so much HP anyway? if i recall stock HP was like 170 or so

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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#12 Old 12-24-2012, 03:59 PM
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I would LOVE to see dyno-proof that headers make SUBSTANTIAL power gains on a stock motor with an aftermarket intake and carb.

Allowing a motor to breathe better? Anything the same size as the individual exhaust ports is more than adequate. If you blow through a straw, you will have resistance. If you blow through a straw with a giant cone on the end, you will have the same resistance. The cone (header) doesn't make more air magically flow through.

Headers change the WAY the air flows out the ports, not necessarily how MUCH air flows through. That's why they sound different. Even then, it won't make much difference unless the motor is pushing a LOT of gasses through (5-6k+++ rpms). For a motor to do this, it will need more than just an intake and carb. It will need a different cam, valves, stroke, etc. That's what makes a "race" motor...

As for headers weighing less than stock intake manifolds, I don't think an extra 25 (?) lbs will make much difference on a 5-6,000 lb pickup...and it is a pickup...not a ferrari...so weight shouldn't be a big issue...unless you ARE building a race motor...in which I highly recommend installing it in smaller/lighter vehicle...like a car...

I'm not trying to flame anyone, I'm just trying to be practical and realistic. Hopefully this will save you from a huge disappointment if you think headers are going to give you 100 hp...

1975 Dodge D100
-Clubcab "Adventurer Sport"
-1-ton Dually
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#13 Old 12-24-2012, 04:38 PM
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The truck's a 1975 but its got a 1970 318. Between 1967 and 1971 they came from the factory with around 220 230 HP if I remember right and mine seems to have a pretty nasty cam in it. It used to be a drag truck with a 340 so its got a posi. I stepped on the gas on the way home from buying it doing about 10 mph and the truck went competly sideways and I almost went into the ditch on the other side of the road lol. The engine was built by a guy who built engines for nascar but I wasn't able to talk to the guy who built it to ask what else he did to it. I bought it from the brother and he didn't know much about it. It had been sitting about 4 years. I was only hoping to see maybe a 10 15 HP gain if less no big deal but I need new manifolds or headers so I might as well get headers. Thanks for the help guys
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#14 Old 12-25-2012, 09:32 AM
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Allowing a motor to breathe better? Anything the same size as the individual exhaust ports is more than adequate. If you blow through a straw, you will have resistance. If you blow through a straw with a giant cone on the end, you will have the same resistance. The cone (header) doesn't make more air magically flow through.

Headers change the WAY the air flows out the ports, not necessarily how MUCH air flows through. That's why they sound different. Even then, it won't make much difference unless the motor is pushing a LOT of gasses through (5-6k+++ rpms). For a motor to do this, it will need more than just an intake and carb. It will need a different cam, valves, stroke, etc. That's what makes a "race" motor...


I'm not even going to try to explain it to you.


You might want to read this....


http://www.shop4exhaust.com/t-Stock-...t-Headers.aspx

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm
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#15 Old 12-25-2012, 10:21 AM
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again, i agree with moparite. if you look at those old iron manifolds then look at long tube headers, the way the exhaust flows through the long tubes is much more efficient. the iron manifolds are tiny and have a choke point. the exhaust is pushed into a chamber that is shared with 3 other cylinders, then pushed through a choke point.

headers are the same as porting and installing larger valves, increases flow and breathability

i didnt say we'd get a large increase in HP either. but they way your engine sounds built, moparmanintn, you should see a decent increase in HP i assume

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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#16 Old 12-25-2012, 05:05 PM
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But odd someone would go to the trouble of building up the engine and not use headers. Must be a story there.

Wanda - 1978 Shortbed Warlock clone
1970 360 w/ lock-up 727
In her 2-3 life - too many new parts to list
Poly steering "rag joint" and steering box braced
Poly mounts/bushings, springs & suspension parts
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#17 Old 12-25-2012, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Warlock's Dad View Post
But odd someone would go to the trouble of building up the engine and not use headers. Must be a story there.
ya right? cause if its a good build, the exhaust is obviously the weak link

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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#18 Old 12-26-2012, 09:34 PM
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please, moparman, its not a posi. its a sure-grip. get yourself a set of headers. they flow better and your 318 will thank you. its like opening up the sinuses. should pick about 15-20 horses for under 200 bucks. i've had the same set of hookers on mine for 9 years. got em from summit. and they just look so damn cool

you like your truck more than you like me. sometimes i do

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#19 Old 12-26-2012, 10:09 PM
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I understand how headers work, I'm not an idiot.

I also understand that engines work like air pumps. You can bolt all the fancy crap you want on them, and they absolutely cannot produce any more air until you change the internal components. There is a mechanical limit, until you change the mechanics.

Hence: stock vs "race" engines. Stock engines have an internal mechanical limit to airflow, and a "race" engine has the internal mechanics changed, to produce more airflow, requiring extreme changes to the entire exhaust system.

1975 Dodge D100
-Clubcab "Adventurer Sport"
-1-ton Dually
-440
-Auto

Last edited by lunchbox1671; 12-26-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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#20 Old 12-26-2012, 10:19 PM
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who's to say that the iron manifolds or intake/carb arent the weak point in that air pump system? the internal valves will only suck in as much air as the carb and intake will allow. same thing on the exhaust side, you put a 1/2" exhaust pipe on 4 cylinders it will choke up the engine. maybe its possible the exhaust valves can move more exhaust than the manifolds will allow? they built these cars to be financially friendly. i highly doubt they so finely tuned the best possible flow rate between the exhaust valves and manifolds. one or the other is going to be the weak spot.

1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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