2-Wheel ABS Malfuntion on '95 3500 V10 2WD Dually - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums

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post #1 of 4 Old 12-01-2012, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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2-Wheel ABS Malfuntion on '95 3500 V10 2WD Dually

Hello all before I get into the details of the problem, allow me to introduce myself:
My name is Shawn and I am an ASE Master Technician. I am currently employed as a Diagnositic/Drivability Technician and Smog Technician at one of the major shops in my area. I am a Toyota guy by history (I own four), but I am asked to work on just about everything in my line of work. I specialize in electrical diagnosis, and am completely stumped on this one.

The Vehicle:
1995 Dodge Ram 3500 2WD Dually V10/Auto with Rear Wheel ABS with 154k Miles that appears to be very well maintained.

The Complaint:
The customer was driving the vehicle on the highway at normal highway speeds (More than 40 MPH) when they attempted to make a hard stop and the rear end of the vehicle came out from behind the vehicle and it wound up facing the opposite way on the highway. It was somewhat wet outside when this happened. According to the customer, the ABS and Brake lights were coming on intermittently.

Since the work order was put in my hands:
Test drove vehicle and was able to verify the customers complaint. Rear brakes would lock up 1/3 of the time under hard braking in wet road conditions over 40 MPH. ABS would function normally and pulse the pedal the other 2/3 of the time. Could not lock up brakes under 40 MPH - ABS would function normally. Could not recreate ABS light more than once. Pulled one code (Module can only store one code) code 11, which pertains to a stop light switch being on all the time, or a two footed driver (One foot on the gas, one on the brake while driving over 40 MPH.) Inspected rear brakes and found no abnormal reason why the brakes would lock up other than hydraulic force (I.E. no brake fluid or oil on the shoes or drums, no water in the drums). Shoes look they have been replaced within the last 10k miles. Differential speed sensor ohmed out at 1300 ohms dead cold, with the spec being 1000-2500 ohms. After doing extensive research on forums and other online resources, we decided to throw an inexpensive part - stop light switch - at it to see if the problem would go away. This did not correct the problem, and now I am looking for other possible causes.

During my research, I found a lot of threads describing this same problem, but I did not see any solutions other than the occasional stop light switch.
I have access to all wiring diagrams for this vehicle, and have not found any issues in any of the wiring yet. Since the problem is intermittent, it points more to a sensor or something mechanical (in my opinion), or worse yet, the Module.

Thank you for taking the time to read my detailed post.
Help me solve this problem, the flat rate is KILLING me.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 4 Old 12-01-2012, 10:05 PM
nekked bob
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I have a 95 v10 2500 and when I bought it it had the same problem.I bought mine when my ford diesel sucked a valve while pulling a trailer at 75 mph(being I was 1000 miles from home and it had almost 486,000 miles it wasn't worth repairing)and so I didn't have what I needed to check it out.When I got home (4000 miles later)the ABS light was always on and after replacing the sensor and not fixing the problem I started checking the wiring and found that the conductor in the wire from the sensor was completely broken at the point that it was attached to the frame.Where mine was bad was so close to the gas tank that I would have to drop the tank to repair it so I still haven't fixed it yet( I really don't like ABS). Mine to this day doesn't look bad from the outside(insulation is still intact but the wire is not making a connection unless I push and hold it) and being that it is a 95 I just pulled the connector from the ABS box under the dash and it thinks that it does not have ABS.If I remember correctly mine had a floating voltage in the broken wire when the key was on and the good one had a constant voltage on it(I don't remember what the voltage value was but it was constant).

1998 2500 qcsb 24v
5 speed 4x4
stock and unmolested
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post #3 of 4 Old 12-01-2012, 10:11 PM
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Have you tried an ABS sensor in the diff? The 94-97's used the tone ring on the carrier and a hall effect sensor to control the RWABS. Those sensors in the upper driver side of the diff housing are prone to going out. In 98 and up they included the Speedo on that sensor.

Im guessing you've bled rear brakes and checked the brake cylinders for any binding? Do the brake shoes and drums look to be in good shape? Any leaking back there?

Haven't done any work on a dually's brakes so I assume it has drums in the rear??

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2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Single Cab, 5.9 Auto, 4.10's, Auburn LSD, Edelbrock headers, 2.5" true duals with crossover, MSD Superconductors, APS Plenum Kit, Level10 Trans kit, Trans-Go shift kit, 2-4 BellTech Drop, SS/T rims, Toyo Proxes ST 285-60-17's, Sir Michaels Roll Pan and tailgate handle relocator, Keystone bumper cover with light openings, PIAA fogs, painted grille shell, painted Street Scene Speed Grille Inserts, SCT XCAL-2, Alpine head unit, Infinity Components front, Infinity Coaxials back, Infinity 500W 4 channel amp, Infinity Basslink, new dash, steering wheel, and guage bezel.

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post #4 of 4 Old 12-02-2012, 09:26 AM
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Have you tried disconnecting the battery to reset the abs? Did you pull out the sensor in the diff and see if it has any debris on the end. Someone posted about having abs issues and it was metal debris on the sensor giving the abs module incorrect readings.
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