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crazzywolfie
 
 Posted: 11-20-2012, 08:09 PM
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Post #21

i still think his engine in general is running too hot and he needs a more accurate temp gauge. it was almost impossible to get my stock temp gauge to move with a 160*thermostat in it. the only time i got it to move as much as he states in post 7 was with 195* thermostat installed.
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81 dodge d150 custom long box 318 670CFM Holley Street Avenger Carb
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-20-2012, 08:49 PM
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Post #22

If you have a bubble in the system and it's where the temp sensor is, it will show cooler temps.
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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lunchbox1671
 
 Posted: 11-20-2012, 09:17 PM
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Post #23

...man.... a clear (see-through) fuel filter sure does tell a lot about fuel delivery...and they are cheap...



Also, popping off the top of the carb reveals a lot. And you can adjust the floats while it's off...



Just sayin...

A rebuild kit is a good way to learn about (and become intimate with) a carb. They are cheap, too...
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roadram360
 
 Posted: 11-20-2012, 09:21 PM
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Post #24

if you're going to own one of these old trucks a factory service manual is your best friend. and you should become intimate with every system of your truck
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-20-2012, 11:37 PM
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Post #25

I use 3/8 line. today i ran the truck and the gas lines were nice and cool and when i noticed the filter start to get an air pocket I felt the intake and man is it hot but the rest of motor is not. it started to backfire through the carb as well, never done this before? what does it mean when it does this? Thanks a lot guys your a big help. This weekend I will lower my floats a little.
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crazzywolfie
 
 Posted: 11-20-2012, 11:43 PM
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Post #26

i would check your coolant level before doing anything else. your truck will run hot if it is running low on coolant.
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81 dodge d150 custom long box 318 670CFM Holley Street Avenger Carb
93 ramcharger 318 FI 2wd

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Moparite
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 06:20 AM
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Post #27

Quote:
it started to backfire through the carb as well, never done this before? what does it mean when it does this?
Check the timing and make sure there aren't any wires that may cause spark jump(spark jumping to another wire).
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 04:08 PM
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Post #28

I have check the coolant and it fine, I can take the cap off the radiator when the gas boil happens and can see a good flow in the radiator when i work the throttle. and I have looked at the wires in the dark and sprayed a little water on them to see if i could see any spark jump and their wasn't. I felt the fuel lines and they dont feel hot. I timed it at 8% above top dead center and it spark knocks so I put it at 4% and it still does it, then ran out of light so gave up for now till tomorrow, also it back fires through the carb only when i run it for more that 5 min, took it for a few test runs when i was setting the timing and when i first take off its fine but a mile or so down the road i turn around and take off again it will back fire when i try to take off then its fine till i stop and try to take off again and the spark knock gets worse as well?
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 04:13 PM
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Post #29

I have had other posts about the ignition system and figured that out, I had put in the mopar orange box with a friends help and was having no start when it got cold out but it was the ballist resistor was hooked up wrong, wires were on the wrong ends of resister. Might their still be an issue with the ignition system?
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 04:27 PM
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Post #30

I was backfiring with a bad distributor. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see whats up. Wish you were in my area. I'd totally help you with this. Just for curiosity's sake. You have the computer and emissions stuff on your truck still?
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 05:00 PM
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Post #31

nope all that stuff is gone
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 07:36 PM
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Post #32

Quote:
Originally Posted by red371 View Post
nope all that stuff is gone
then set your timing between 12-14*. the 4-8* is for the computer and emission system. without it, you should be setting it much higher. having bad timing could be causing a heating issue. i set my 318 to 14-16* and it ran great.
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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crazzywolfie
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 07:58 PM
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Post #33

have you installed a distributor with vacuum advance? when swapping from computer to older electronic ignition system you need a vacuum advance distributor since the computer controlled that.
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81 dodge d150 custom long box 318 670CFM Holley Street Avenger Carb
93 ramcharger 318 FI 2wd

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red371
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 08:06 PM
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Post #34

yes i do have the dizzy with the vac. advance and i will set it to that tomorrow. Thanks for all the help
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-21-2012, 08:09 PM
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Post #35

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
have you installed a distributor with vacuum advance? when swapping from computer to older electronic ignition system you need a vacuum advance distributor since the computer controlled that.
that was the issue i had when i first got my truck. they swapped the computer controlled carb but they didnt swap the ignition system. so i was back firing out of the exhaust. my truck ran like crap. i switched to an HEI system and my truck was awesome after that.
__________________
1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-22-2012, 08:02 PM
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State: VT
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Post #36

I got the spark knock fixed, I advanced the timing to 11 deg or so and adjusted the two front screws on the carb to let more gas in, they were only 1/2 turn out so I put them to 3/4 of a turn and it seems to work. as for the gas boil I lined the tube coming from the fuel pump with 3/8 rubber gas line and bent it away from the motor, ran it a for a few miles and didn't boil but still loosing a little from the gas filter? Have another problem will start a new post.
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-28-2012, 06:34 PM
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Post #37

another question I have is why does my truck not spark knock on super only. if i run anything else it will knock and I have tried different timing settings it wont help.
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crazzywolfie
 
 Posted: 11-28-2012, 07:21 PM
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Post #38

did you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the vacuum line when you set the timing?
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81 dodge d150 custom long box 318 670CFM Holley Street Avenger Carb
93 ramcharger 318 FI 2wd

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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-28-2012, 09:17 PM
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Post #39

Do you have any history on the truck? Recent engine rebuilds?
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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red371
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 04:01 AM
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State: VT
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Post #40

i was told it had a mild comp. cam, mechanical lifters, 360 j-heads. thats all i was told, yup unpluged the vaccum. thanks
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