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lunchbox1671
 
 Posted: 11-28-2012, 07:45 PM
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Post #21

Sounds like she might need more fuel now that the timing is adjusted drastically. Did you adjust your carb?
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jbaum75
 
 Posted: 11-28-2012, 09:05 PM
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Post #22

carb was replaced about 5 weeks ago. I assume that it was adjusted to manufacturer specs at the shop. Isn't the engine getting more gas as I push on the accelerator?
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Roanoker494
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 12:56 AM
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Post #23

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Originally Posted by jbaum75 View Post
Another question. When I was adjusting the timing I discovered that the timing was WAY off. If I had to estimate I would say it was set at ~20-25 BTDC (The timing marks only go to 10 BTDC - 10 ATDC, like pic above). Repair manual states that it should be between TDC and 2 ATDC. BUT the engine was running very well after replacing the ICM (before I adjusted timing). So I set the timing as stated in the manual and it runs very differently. At idle speeds it's fine but if I accelerate quickly there is a dramatic loss of power and the engine almost stalls. If I accelerate very gradually the engine runs decent?? What does this mean??

Thanks for all the help in the past. This forum is awesome!
I only mention it because I have done this before but make sure you were hooked to the #1 wire when you adjusted your timing.

If that checks out then make sure your vac advance is hooked up and working. Also verify that the accelerator pump is working in the carb.

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Originally Posted by jbaum75 View Post
carb was replaced about 5 weeks ago. I assume that it was adjusted to manufacturer specs at the shop. Isn't the engine getting more gas as I push on the accelerator?
Pushing the gas pedal is giving you more fuel but the adjustment screws control the air to fuel ratio, the more you open the needles the richer the truck will run. I believe a rough "get you running" setting is 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. Then slowly turn each needle clockwise until the engine starts to labor and then back them out 1/2 turn. Start with the Left hand screw first, passengers side of the engine. I know this method will work on many carburetors but you may want to check a shop manual, a Haynes manual or Google search may even produce the info.
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jbaum75
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 07:32 AM
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Post #24

I hooked up to the front driver side plug, according to the repair manual that is #1 plug. I don't have access to a vac pump, is there a way to test if vac advance is working without one. I will double check the screws. How would I verify that the accel pump is working?

I don't see how the truck was running at all with the timing setting it had??

Thanks for all the help
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 09:16 AM
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Post #25

That 4* timing is for the computer controlled stuff. Don't use those numbers. 20-25* is a bit high but more like what you need. Mine ran great at around 12-14*. Try that and see how it runs.
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jbaum75
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 09:57 AM
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Post #26

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Originally Posted by maachine View Post
That 4* timing is for the computer controlled stuff. Don't use those numbers. 20-25* is a bit high but more like what you need. Mine ran great at around 12-14*. Try that and see how it runs.
OK will give it a shot. 12-14 before TDC or after TDC. With engine timing, if the engine sounds good and runs good is the timing good? Or can the engine run fine and timing be off?
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 10:17 AM
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Post #27

Btdc.

It will run. But performance will drop off the farther off it is. If you're running four degrees right now, that could be why its sluggish.
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LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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Roanoker494
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 02:27 PM
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Post #28

You can check your vac advance without a gauge. Unhook the hose at the carb, suck on it, stick the hose to your tounge and see if it continues to hold vacuum. You could use a new length of hose if it makes ya feel better.
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-29-2012, 02:49 PM
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Post #29

make sure that you unplug the vac advance when you do the timing. plug the port that the vac advance hose was on. forgot to mention that earlier
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LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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jbaum75
 
 Posted: 01-31-2013, 09:32 AM
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Post #30

now that the weather has gotten really cold new issues are emerging. When the truck is started first thing in morning it will start and run for 1-2 seconds then stall. It will do this a couple of times then it will keep running. After it runs for a few minutes I put it in gear and it stalls. It will this every time until it has warmed up a bit. Then when I come to a complete stop then push on the gas to go again the engine bogs down and stalls sometimes unless I feather the gas till the truck is moving again. All of these symptoms go away when the engine warms.

Any ideas???
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Dart270Sleeper
 
 Posted: 01-31-2013, 05:51 PM
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Post #31

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Originally Posted by jbaum75 View Post
now that the weather has gotten really cold new issues are emerging. When the truck is started first thing in morning it will start and run for 1-2 seconds then stall. It will do this a couple of times then it will keep running. After it runs for a few minutes I put it in gear and it stalls. It will this every time until it has warmed up a bit. Then when I come to a complete stop then push on the gas to go again the engine bogs down and stalls sometimes unless I feather the gas till the truck is moving again. All of these symptoms go away when the engine warms.

Any ideas???
Welcome to owning a Dodge. Every Dodge that doesn't have Fuel Injection will do that. Sometimes you can ease it up some in tweaking the carb and fine tuning the timing but not much. My 79' Dodge does the same thing when it gets cold. Doesn't matter what carb size you use. 4 or 2 barrel it will be hard to get going in the mornnings. I have been driving them for a decade and learned to wait for the truck to warm up before going any where. My advice is give yourself a little extra time in the mornings before you leave to get the truck warmed up.
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maachine
 
 Posted: 01-31-2013, 06:25 PM
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Post #32

i saw another thread with this same issue. everyone suggested "let it warm up".

make sure your choke is working properly. about all i can suggest
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some sort of lift
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LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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lunchbox1671
 
 Posted: 02-01-2013, 12:05 AM
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Post #33

If you install an electric fuel pump with an auxilliary switch, you can turn it on to let it build pressure before you crank, pump the throttle a few times, and she should fire up faster/better.

Manual fuel pumps require the engine to crank over a few times to build pressure. An electric fuel pump provides pressure before the engine cranks over.

It may not solve your problem, but it could help a bit.

Every little thing counts on an old rig!
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charlie1935
 
 Posted: 02-01-2013, 08:07 AM
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Post #34

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaum75 View Post
carb was replaced about 5 weeks ago. I assume that it was adjusted to manufacturer specs at the shop. Isn't the engine getting more gas as I push on the accelerator?
In over 60 years of working on my own and a few years of dealership mechanic I've never seen a carb adjusted just right out of the box.
All require some adjustment.
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acton mike
 
 Posted: 02-01-2013, 09:04 AM
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Post #35

looking for vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid/ether around areas where a leak is suspected might work but it can also lead to fires/explosions/injury - and if you get too many whiffs of it, fuzzy thinking and a large head-ache

if you must spray something, use WD-40
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lunchbox1671
 
 Posted: 02-04-2013, 12:10 AM
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Post #36

WD-40 is flammable also...
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Dart270Sleeper
 
 Posted: 02-04-2013, 02:51 AM
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Post #37

it may be but it takes a lot of heat to get it to ignite. I used to coat black carbon steel when i worked at sheetmetal and fabrication shop. we would clean it first with lacquer thinner to remove dirt then coat it WD-40 to make it a cleaner cut with the cutting laser. And those lasers get very hot and i haven't seen wd light up once.
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roadram360
 
 Posted: 02-05-2013, 10:25 PM
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Post #38

wd makes a good torch for getting caterpillars out of trees
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charlie1935
 
 Posted: 02-06-2013, 06:56 AM
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Post #39

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wd makes a good torch for getting caterpillars out of trees

Starting fluid does too.
Makes one helluva flame!
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lunchbox1671
 
 Posted: 02-06-2013, 07:11 PM
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Post #40

I'm suprised a laser doesn't ignite it... cuz a pocket lighter can.

WD-40 will leave a coating around your engine components, not that it hurts anything. Starting fluid evaporates. I would rather have a "flash" than a longer burning fuel coated everywhere...

The point of using starting fluid is that it IS extremely flammable. The vacuum sucks it into the carb, making the rpms go up or smooth out. WD-40 probably wouldn't do it as drastically, although I've always used starting fluid so I don't know how well WD would work in comparison.
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