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DPW
 
  1984 w150 stepside help! - Posted: 11-25-2012, 05:28 PM
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Post #1

Hey guys. I just bought a 1984 w150 stepside, and It runs amazing and is in decent shape. Today I took the gauge cluster cover off to put the 4x4 engaged light on. I had to take stereo off to get the cover off. I also hit the switch between the emerg brake release and the hood release by accident. The truck wont turn on now.... I have no clue what I did. But the ignition buzzer doesnt even turn on when I go to start her up. My battery is fine as I can still play the stereo and lights/gauges work... What does the switch between the two releases do, and why wont my truck start? please help! thanks guys.
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Roanoker494
 
 Posted: 11-25-2012, 06:25 PM
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Post #2

Could you possibly post a picture of this switch? I don't know of any switches down there that would keep if from starting, but I am not as familiar with the electronics on the 80's model trucks. Will the engine crank over but not start or nothing happens when you turn the key?

EDIT:
The only things that I can think of that would keep it from starting, located in that general area, would be the ignition switch and the amp meter.
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1978 Dodge D200, 318, 2bbl, 2wd, 4spd
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-25-2012, 07:26 PM
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Post #3

I will post a pic of the switch tomorrow after work. And the engine doesnt even turn over. nothing happens when i turn the ignition.
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-25-2012, 09:08 PM
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Post #4

It may be the amp meter, I took the heater lever assembly out to find the 4x4 light wire, and must of knocked the amp meter wire loose or something. I will look tomorrow after work. I'll also post a pic of that switch.
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Roanoker494
 
 Posted: 11-25-2012, 10:10 PM
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Post #5

I can not say if your 84 is like my 78 but those amp meters are a great source of heartache when they decide to burn out, mine was bypassed long ago because of this.
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 01:06 AM
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Post #6

Okay. I will get back to you tomorrow afternoon. What exactly does the amp meter do?
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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 08:29 AM
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Post #7

it just shows how much draw (amps) is coming out of your battery. ammeter by the way

about that switch.....i dont know of any switches in between the 2 releases. only thing i have really heard of is the posi lock cable. the instructions for the cable installs it right there. its a black handle with a red button on it?

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
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LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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Warlock's Dad
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 04:54 PM
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Post #8

And just to be on the safe side, why don't you put a charger on your battery tonight.

And if it's not the mystery switch, I'd probably pull the radio again and make sure everything else near where you were working is is plugged in tight with no corrosion or loose grounds.

Grady
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1970 360 w/ lock-up 727
In her 2-3 life - too many new parts to list
Poly steering "rag joint" and steering box braced
Poly mounts/bushings, springs & suspension parts
Upgraded cooling & fans
Front Sway Bar added
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 05:14 PM
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Post #9

I'm on my way home now. I am going to pull the radio again and check all the wiring behind there. And behind the gauge cover as well. My battery is fine. I checked her last night. Just bought it two weeks ago. Hopefully I'll fix it tonight. I'll post a pic of that stupid switch in about an hour. I can't even think of anything what it might be. Maybe trailer brakes? Frig idk

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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 05:16 PM
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Post #10

The switch is a toggle switch. With a red light that lights up when you flip it up.

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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 05:49 PM
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Post #11

K so this is the switch. Its almost dark now and I have a flashlight on it so hopefully you guys can see. I'm about to take all the shit back off and check the wires now.

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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 05:50 PM
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Post #12

uploadfromtaptalk1353973806504.jpg

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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 06:34 PM
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Post #13

Ya that's not a factory thing. Maybe for a trailer or maybe some after market lights. You'll have to chase the wires to figure that one out. As someone mentioned, double check your work. Main feed of power goes through the ammeter.
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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dodgensince74
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 07:26 PM
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Post #14

could be some one installed it as a kill switch
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 09:21 PM
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Post #15

Alright guys, sorry for the big cafuffle about the switch. I'm an idiot, its just the flood lights on the front... So that is solved. I took the dash back off and checked all the wires and shit and I found a few couplers that weren't connected. I can't for the life of me find where they go. I found something else out though. When I turn the ignition to just before starting position, all my stereo, lights and aftermarket gauges work. I have a volt meter that shows about 10 volts. But when I try to start the truck everything shuts off. Even the volt meter. Also, the red engine oil light is on, and the ammeter(which I'm assuming is on the left side of the gauge cluster) is right in the middle, but doesnt move. This is getting so frustrating. And its not like I can drive it to the shop. Even if I could drive it there, I still would like to fix it myself.

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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 09:30 PM
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Post #16

So normally when the ignition is turned on you will hear the buzzer right? I dont hear it now and I can't even here the starter trying to engage. Absolutely nothing happens when I try to start it except everything turns off. Could it be something with the fuses, or the starter motor? Oh and another thing, I took the air filter off to see the diameter of the mouth of the carb, and then put it back on. This was the day before I took the stereo out. Could there be something I missed when I pulled the air filter off?

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Warlock's Dad
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 10:22 PM
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Post #17

[quote=DPW;4450183 When I turn the ignition to just before starting position, all my stereo, lights and aftermarket gauges work. I have a volt meter that shows about 10 volts. But when I try to start the truck everything shuts off. Even the volt meter.
[/QUOTE]

Turning the starter on can/will kill everything else while cranking. That's so all the juice goes to the starter.

Your problem is the the starter doesn't click or crank - correct?

I'd trouble shoot by working backward from the starter; do you have power there?

Least likely is the ignition switch, more likely the starter components. Somewhere in the middle range is a stray bad connection, but more likely for you b/c you have extra unconnected connectors. Grady
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Wanda - 1978 Shortbed Warlock clone
1970 360 w/ lock-up 727
In her 2-3 life - too many new parts to list
Poly steering "rag joint" and steering box braced
Poly mounts/bushings, springs & suspension parts
Upgraded cooling & fans
Front Sway Bar added
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 10:27 PM
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Post #18

There has been so many wires just clipped, and left there. Speaker wires and shit stuffed everywhere! I wish the previous owner was a little more meticulous lol. I'm definitely getting a new wire harness. I just want it to run for now. God dam. I'm going to have to wait until the weekend to really work on it. I work all day and its dark by the time I get home. I'll pick away at it with trouble lights until then.

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maachine
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 10:57 PM
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Post #19

did you check the fusible links? its a block on the drivers side wheel well. it looks like a triangle rubber block with one big wire coming into it and 3 or 4 wires coming out. look at those 3 or 4 wires for anything weird. if you need a pic, let me know
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1987 Dodge W-150 "The Beast"
some sort of lift
33" AT's
LA 360 bored .030 over, EQ Magnum heads, Hooker Headers, true dual exhaust, Holley 4160 w/Truck Avenger parts, Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake, StreetFire ignition box & MSD coil
208 t-case/727A trans w/3.23 gears
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DPW
 
 Posted: 11-26-2012, 11:10 PM
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Post #20

I noticed those when I looked under the hood. I will check tomorrow. I wish I never tried to get the dam 4x4 light on. Everything would be fine. My dad has a 79 d100 and he said it has a resistor in that location. Does the 84 have that? I might just go to napa and get all the parts that are in the ignition system. Aside from the starter itself.

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