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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
  Heating Times - Posted: 11-11-2012, 12:56 PM
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Post #1

It seems like my truck is taking an excessive ammount of time to heat up off of a cold start. I'm usually to my destination by the time the truck starts to blow out some respectable heat.

I understand how the heater works which is why I don't think anything is "wrong". It just seems like it should be heating up quicker. I have a remote starter that I let the truck run for 3-5 mins before I get in too. And my windshield is frosted and hogged ove in the mornings and it takes a bit to get enough heat up there to make it so I can see.

The only reason I think it is so slow is because I went with some grinds to a concert last night and it was about 40 degrees out. Her 01 GMC Yukon was bone cold when we got back (was sitting for 6 hours). I started it up and the two gage was all the way at "C" and within 30 secconds it was blowing air hotter than my truck does after 30 minutes.

I'm wondering if there is a way to books the heater somehow? I would like the heat to come faster if there is any way to do so.
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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badblackram
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 01:12 PM
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Post #2

Maybe installing a lower degree thermostat?
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 01:24 PM
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Post #3

Wouldn't that make it cooler since the engine would be running cooler?
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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badblackram
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 01:42 PM
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Post #4

In a way but it won't affect heater temps. The engine will heat up like normal until the temps hit 180. Then the thermostat will open an send the coolant through out the system a little earlier than the stock thermostat.

A 180* thermostat opens sooner than the stock 195* stat But I have heard these engines run more efficiently at 195-200*.

Also it may be possible your current thermostat may be stuck open and not allowing the coolant in the engine to heat properly.

Has it always taken forever?
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2006 Ram 1500
4.7L- Gibson S/S ceramic shorties
Flex-a-lite 183 e-fan kit
Catless w/ 12279 magnaflow
Apm ram air hood w/ ram air intake
Painted grille, bumper, & handles
Painted headlights w/ Retrofitted morimoto projectors
Power slot rotors
Diablo Sport Trinity with Hemifever tune
2/5 McGaughy's drop kit
4.56 motive gears & Detroit Truetrac
Nitto 420s 285/50r20
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 02:40 PM
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Post #5

That's a tough question to answer. It was previously my dads truck and I took it over when I got my licence back in 2010. I don't recall if its always been like this, but I belive it has been. I have a 180 stat but I don't want to go through the hassle of draining the fluid to get it changed out. I think I'm about due for fluids so I might have the shop do it then.
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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Destructo09
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 05:07 PM
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Post #6

T stat could be stuck open, that does sound like a long time for it to get hot.

The hot coolant still goes through the heater core even with the T stat closed, so a 180* isn't going to make any difference.

I would try replacing the thermostat with a new one and see if that helps, won't cost much and shouldn't be too difficult.
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 06:34 PM
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Post #7

Maybe I don't understand this, but if the t stat is closed and coolant still runs through the core, wouldn't it still go though when the t stat is open? I'm just wondering how having a stuck t stat will affect the heater is all.

How long does it take your cars/trucks to get heat going?
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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badblackram
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 06:42 PM
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Post #8

It does but the heat disperses throughout the entire system (radiator) instead of being confined to the engine and heater core. If its opened there is a larger volume of coolant that has to be heated.

I just made a run to the store. At 68 degrees outside. It took the coolant 1.5 minutes to get to 150* and 5 minutes to get to 180*. If that gives you an idea.
__________________

2006 Ram 1500
4.7L- Gibson S/S ceramic shorties
Flex-a-lite 183 e-fan kit
Catless w/ 12279 magnaflow
Apm ram air hood w/ ram air intake
Painted grille, bumper, & handles
Painted headlights w/ Retrofitted morimoto projectors
Power slot rotors
Diablo Sport Trinity with Hemifever tune
2/5 McGaughy's drop kit
4.56 motive gears & Detroit Truetrac
Nitto 420s 285/50r20

Last edited by badblackram : 11-11-2012 at 07:06 PM.
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 07:04 PM
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Post #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by badblackram View Post
It does but the heat disperses throughout the entire system (radiator) instead of being confined to the engine and heater core. If its opened there is a larger volume of coolant that has to be heated.
ahh... makes perfect sense to me now
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 07:12 PM
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Post #10

I just checked my records and it looks like I'm 6k over on the fluids. I will be calling my shop on Tuesday to get her in for the fluids.
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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N1K
 
 Posted: 11-11-2012, 09:33 PM
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Post #11

Mine takes 7-10 min at idle to warm that's been from the low thirtys in the mornings lately
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Ron_J
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 08:25 AM
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Post #12

Quote:
Originally Posted by Destructo09 View Post
T stat could be stuck open, that does sound like a long time for it to get hot.

The hot coolant still goes through the heater core even with the T stat closed, so a 180* isn't going to make any difference.

I would try replacing the thermostat with a new one and see if that helps, won't cost much and shouldn't be too difficult.
What he said....sounds like your t-stat isn't closing...or at least not the whole way.
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MonsoonMike
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 10:51 AM
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Post #13

Well, if you are not doing it yourself... have them flush your heater core as well.
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DannyMK2
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 01:56 PM
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Post #14

sounds like a bad t-stat or heater core starting to clog up. check the temp out of the vents when its fully hot with an infared thermometer to see if its even getting as hot as it should.
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 03:29 PM
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Post #15

I took her to work today and it never got hot. It was about a 15 minute ride and I had it blasting on high the whole time. It got warm and I felt the vents but it wasn't anywhere near as hot as it should be or eventually gets. I only noticed when I pulled into the parking lot that there was a temp difference.

I will have the shop flush it out and swap out the t stat. I have a shop do it so I don't have to deal with the mess and the old fluid. Makes my life that much easier.
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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DannyMK2
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 03:36 PM
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Post #16

whats the temperature of your coolant? it should be equal to the value of the t-stat +/- 10*. if your trucks reaching operating temp but your heat isnt getting hot, you have a heater core issue. if your truck isnt reaching operating temp, then its the t-stat. it would be a shame to waste coolant now only to find out you needed a heater core all along.
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Last edited by DannyMK2 : 11-12-2012 at 03:44 PM.
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 03:48 PM
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Post #17

Well the gage was at that if I had a 180 in. It was as I said running for a total of 15 minutes. I don't usually drive too far because if I am I take my other car. When I do it will hit the 1/2 way mark where it should be.

Is there a way to tell if its the core? I didn't know that those could go bad.
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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DannyMK2
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 04:08 PM
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Post #18

i dont really trust the factory temp gauge too much so its hard to say. i would point an infared thermometer at the heater hoses and rad hoses to get an idea of the temp of the coolant. if you watch the hoses with the thermometer, you should also be able to see the coolant change temp when the t-stat opens. if you do this and the t-stat checks out, then its more then likely the heater core. if its not leaking for giving off steam, fogging the windshield, you can try to flush it out with some CLR. that usually works if its a little clogged. if not, your looking at replacing the heater core. heater cores can go bad like anything else. its basically a mini radiator.
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RUMBLE BEE 1546
 
 Posted: 11-12-2012, 07:05 PM
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Post #19

When the air comes on it'll sometimes fog the windshield but as soon as it gets fresh air it clears up. It takes a while to clear the fog on the windshield on cold mornings which is a pain because I have to either drive looking through a small circle or wait several minutes.

I'm wondering if I should just replace the heater core too. By the time I buy a infrared thermometer ($30 for the cheapest one) and if I find it to be the core, that's another $60-80 depending on what brand I go with plus install.

Luckily the shop I go to I get good prices at.
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2004 Rumble Bee #1546 4X4
Ryan
Performance: Super Chips 3865, K&N CAI, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, Dual Exhaust with 18" Magnaflow Muffler and Y-pipe, Power Wire, Sonnax Line Booster, Jet 180* t-stat, Taylor 8.2mm Shortie wires, Flex-A-Lite 183 E-fan, Grounded TB.
Appearance: 22" Black BOSS 334's wrapped in Nexen Tires, LED Tail Lights & Third, Shorty Antenna, Honeycomb Grill, Tint:5% Visor and Rear Window, Deadged, Retro'd 8000k Projected HID Headlights w/ SMD Halos, 3000k HID Fogs, Switchback LED Turns, Full LED Bulb Swap, Snugtop Tonneau w/ Stripe Extensions & 1546 in Stripe
Other: Kenwood KDC-X994, Pioneer 5ch amp wired to 2 10" Diamond Audio Subs in a custom ported box and 2 Kenwood Door Speakers, Clifford Remote Starter/Alarm System w/ Smart Start, Husky Floor Liners, Push Button Start, Jimmy Jammers.
Future Mods: Cam, Alarm Accessories (Motion Sensors, Microphone Sensors, Level Sensor, ect.)...
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Ron_J
 
 Posted: 11-13-2012, 05:18 AM
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Post #20

if the water temp (the gauge in the truck) is going up, and it still isn't blowing hot, then it's the heater core. Probably needs flushed.
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