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Grscooby
 
  Engine tries to die after 50 miles - Posted: 11-03-2012, 01:48 PM
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Post #1

I have an 07 Ram with a 3.7 V6. Problem has been going on all summer and I am tired of it.
I can drive anywhere between 40 and 60 miles and my engine starts to die. It feels like a fuel problem at first because it stutters and then won't rev up when you try to accelerate. I replaced the pump assembly. No change. As the weather got hotter, it did it sooner than 40 miles.
Changed the MAP sensor, plugs, and cleaned the air intake sensor. Only sprayed the throat of the throttle body. Cleared everything by grounding the positive cable. First morning to drive after the previous work was about 48 degrees and the truck had no issues. Now the afternoons are back in the upper 80's and it does it again!
If you put it in neutral, turn the key off for a few seconds, it will start and run fine for a few miles before running like crap.
Pulled codes and I have 0073 and 0463. i broke the ambient air sensor when I changed my condensor fan but it shouldn't cause a problem. As far as the high voltage at the sender, I could have pinched a wire or have one loose at the top of the tank. Either way if shouldn't do anything more than make the gas gauge goofy.

Anyone have any ideas?
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Audie61
 
 Posted: 11-03-2012, 09:00 PM
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Post #2

I know the FI system uses the air temp sensor. You did replace ti when you broke it right?
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Grscooby
 
 Posted: 11-04-2012, 07:09 AM
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Post #3

I haven't replaced it. It's the ambient air temp sensor. The one that gives you the outside temp and shows it on the dash.
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MonsoonMike
 
 Posted: 11-04-2012, 10:37 AM
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Post #4

I could be wrong.. but I believe the computer monitors that as a "X" factor. If it's missing it maybe throwing something off. Should be a cheap try. Maybe a cheap fix.

I need to replace mine cause someone said it can cause bad MPG.. Mine reads at 85 most of the time.
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crasher76
 
 Posted: 11-04-2012, 03:25 PM
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Post #5

Torque converter??
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Grscooby
 
 Posted: 11-04-2012, 05:06 PM
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Post #6

I am going to pick up a sensor tomorrow just to rule that out or who knows maybe it is the fix!
I thought of torque converter but outside temperature making the problem better ir worse made me think otherwise.

Last edited by Grscooby : 11-04-2012 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Multiple post
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MonsoonMike
 
 Posted: 11-05-2012, 01:33 PM
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Post #7

Lets us know if that worked. Also if you can get a part number. I need to get me one as well.

Guess it's your Standard Motor Products AX75 Ambient Temperature Sensor..
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Rich 2500
 
 Posted: 11-05-2012, 04:58 PM
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Post #8

Next time it does it open the fuel cap and see if it sucks air.
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Grscooby
 
 Posted: 11-05-2012, 05:29 PM
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Post #9

I tried the cap thinking the charcoal canister was plugged up and it was not breathing. But the cap was venting right.
I bought the part (SU3122) at autozone today. Had been running bad again this afternoon is how I even remembered to go buy it. Ran perfect the rest of the way home. The true test will be tomorrow afternoon as temps in Dallas are going to be close to 80 and I gave a 100 mile trip late in the afternoon.

We shall see......
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sawcut64
 
 Posted: 11-05-2012, 07:25 PM
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Post #10

The codes are for IAT sensor and fuel level sensor, I'd start with those and the wiring, also check the battery, weak or bad batteries can cause all sorts of weird issues.
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Dodge4x4810
 
 Posted: 11-05-2012, 09:06 PM
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Post #11

P0073-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High

P0463-fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit High
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Grscooby
 
 Posted: 11-06-2012, 03:09 PM
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Post #12

So I can now tell you that the ambient air sensor was not the problem. Again ran great in the morning whe it was 45 degrees out. At 75 degrees it ran about 50 miles before it acted up again.
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dmcelhannon
 
 Posted: 11-06-2012, 09:18 PM
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Post #13

I'm with Rich 2500. If it's the fuel pump then the pump cannot move the fuel against the vacuum the engine is pulling. Just because the fuel is vented doesn't mean the fuel system is getting enough air. The vented fuel cap is there to help the fuel tank breath while the truck is sitting, mot while it's running down the road.

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Grscooby
 
 Posted: 11-07-2012, 02:56 PM
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Post #14

Like clockwork it is doing it again this afternoon. No sucking air when the cap is removed. I am driving it now with the cap off. And it has not yet set a code like I expected.
Last pump I bought was an Airtex brand. If its going bad I guess I buy a lifetime pump at autozone so I am only out my labor.
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dmcelhannon
 
 Posted: 11-07-2012, 09:45 PM
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Post #15

Have you checked for clogged or kinked EVAP lines (hoses)? The only other thing that makes any sense is clogged pickup filter screen on the pump.
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~ Waiting to fix my Ram! ~ 2-Years 85-Days and Counting! ~


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sawcut64
 
 Posted: 11-07-2012, 10:30 PM
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Post #16

How can a fuel pump, pump fuel flawlessly for 50ish miles then like clockwork sporadically malfunction?
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lightning04
 
 Posted: 11-07-2012, 10:33 PM
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Post #17

Had this problem with a ford lightning, it ended up being the egr. Bought a egr delete kit for the truck, never had the problem return...

Steve
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dmcelhannon
 
 Posted: 11-07-2012, 11:54 PM
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Post #18

I thought of that but he said some times it dies at 40-miles, then it's 60-miles, then 50-miles, and he's the one that's rounded the number off to a clock-work-50-miles. When an EGR goes bad, it's bad, and it only gets worse. Now I do not have to deal with an EGR on my engine and if I did, I believe it would some how fall off my truck.

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File Type: jpg 07 Ram 3.7L EGR.jpg (60.7 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg 07 Ram 3.7L EGR - 2.jpg (60.8 KB, 3 views)
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2002 Ram 1500 SLT 4x4 QC ~ 02 Ram 45RFE to Jeep GC TCM 5-45RFE Upgrade - (Nov.01) 4.7L with 85K/3142hrs, Knolton Thunder Cylinder Heads & HO Cams by Sawcut, 4.56 R&P/DTT, SRT-10 Pod w/Dynojet Wideband Commander, 2-speed manual transfer case, Clifford Security System w/Auto Start/Auto Windows, RB1 CD/DVD/NAV Infinity Sound System w/30GB iPod, Offroad Package, 33" BFG T/A KO, Mopar Rear Wheel Liners, EBC Greenstuff Roadsport Brake Pads, K&N w/Airaid Jr Modular Intake Tube, BBK 70mm Throttle Body, AIR_RAM Jet Stream Scoop, PML Diff Cover, ASP Underdrive Crank Pulley, MSD 1.65 Alt Pulley, V8 Lincoln E-Fan, FK-60 E-Fan Controller w/relay, 180 Jet T-Stat, Flowmaster SI/DO Exhaust, Tire-2-Tire Chrome Tuber Step, Line of Fire LED Light Bar, Sylvania Ultra Silverstars, $1600 Oil Pickup Tube

Texas 1845: We the People of the Republic of Texas, acknowledging,
with gratitude, the grace and beneficence of God.


~ Waiting to fix my Ram! ~ 2-Years 85-Days and Counting! ~


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lightning04
 
 Posted: 11-08-2012, 07:48 AM
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Post #19

With my truck when it was giving me problems with the egr, if was cruising you wouldn't really notice it, but when i would let off the gas it would buck and basically lose power and almost stall... Then if i was to gas it again, it would hesitate bad... And on warmer days it would do it so much more then on cooler days. Happened for about a month, took it to my performance shop and like i said, egr delete kit and it runs great

Steve
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Grscooby
 
 Posted: 11-08-2012, 08:35 AM
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Post #20

Earlier this year I got the code for the egr and replaced it. Pain in the ass to get to because you can't see it and have your hands in there too.
I haven't looked closely at the evap but will this weekend. The idea of something plugged up is starting to make more sense. My truck acts just as lightning describes above with the exception that at highway speed it will start to buck and that's when you lose power. Ten seconds with the key off and you can resume acceleration but only for a few miles. Step on the gas and its as if you have no fuel. Shutting the engine off would seem to allow a slight relief in the clog. It almost has to be a mechanical issue as no codes are being set. Unless of course the ECM is bad.but that doesn't make sense either.
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