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BLUE EAGLE
 
  Help, my RPMs surge when i start my 06 - Posted: 06-21-2012, 04:46 PM
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Post #1

Help, my RPMs surge up and down when i start my 06. Most of the time I can kick it down,But I don't like the motor racing when cold. The motor races from 1500 and slowly jumps up and down to 500-600 on its own. T he worst part is the dealer says there is no problem with it......

Last edited by BLUE EAGLE : 07-01-2012 at 05:51 AM.
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05Ramhendrix
 
 Posted: 06-21-2012, 05:41 PM
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Post #2

Dealer is correct.
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Redtruck-VA
 
 Posted: 06-21-2012, 06:24 PM
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Post #3

Seriously? No way should it race when started..
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 06-21-2012, 06:37 PM
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Post #4

Mine does it, too. I just moved the truck to the driveway for tomorrow's ride to work. It wound itself up to 1,200 or so on start up.The Mazda, Buick and the Chrysler do this as well.
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05Ramhendrix
 
 Posted: 06-21-2012, 07:47 PM
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http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314243
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 06-21-2012, 08:09 PM
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Post #6

I don't get all the uproar. The motor winds up when it's cold to heat up the cats. They don't work unless they're hot. A little higher idle speed produces more heat to them.
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wyat72
 
 Posted: 06-21-2012, 09:47 PM
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Every vehicle I ever owned has done this.
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BLUE EAGLE
 
  wow - Posted: 06-22-2012, 08:52 AM
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Post #8

who knew that this was nomal. I might try this ( the 'hard dump' reset of the computer; take you time and do it right.
First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.
Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.
Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.
Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)
Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.)

Or maybe just disconnecting the battery overnight. The first year i had the truck it was not like this, I still worry about putting it in gear at high idle.

Thanks guys for all your help, I guess I'm happy i won't be paying for a repair............
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 06-22-2012, 05:45 PM
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Post #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUE EAGLE View Post
who knew that this was nomal. I might try this ( the 'hard dump' reset of the computer; take you time and do it right.
First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.
Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.
Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.
Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)
Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.)

Or maybe just disconnecting the battery overnight. The first year i had the truck it was not like this, I still worry about putting it in gear at high idle.

Thanks guys for all your help, I guess I'm happy i won't be paying for a repair............
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JonRoc
 
 Posted: 06-23-2012, 12:52 AM
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Post #10

i tried that ^^^ & it started raining.
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BLUE EAGLE
 
 Posted: 06-23-2012, 08:46 AM
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Post #11

Mike I agree with Jon I think that one is for a rain storm
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modru2004
 
 Posted: 06-23-2012, 09:57 AM
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Post #12

the surging or cold idle that your talking has more to do with getting the engine running than anything else.

this is the automatic "choke" for fuel injected vehicles. its injecting more fuel on initial start up until the engine warms up some so it can sustain combustion with less fuel at a lower idle.
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BLUE EAGLE
 
 Posted: 06-23-2012, 10:31 AM
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Post #13

Thank you Modru2004, Please what is the best way for us to start our rams with this system? Should we just wait until it stops going up and down or try to gun it a little? Or.......?
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modru2004
 
 Posted: 06-23-2012, 10:47 AM
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Post #14

its personal preference as some people do rev the engine a bit. personally i don't like doing that to a cold engine though as its more wear and tear because oil isn't completely circulated when you first start the engine.


but you said going up and down? is your needle bouncing on your tachometer?


on a cold start the idle shoot shoot up to around 1300-1500 rpm and hold steady for a few seconds at least could be as long as 30+ seconds on a cold day. then when the engines warms it drops back down to about 800 rpm and stays there.

if the needle is bouncing around like it can't pick an rpm, its NOT supposed to be doing that.
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BLUE EAGLE
 
 Posted: 07-01-2012, 05:46 AM
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Post #15

Yes the needle was bouncing around, I think I may have fixed it :before i started my truck i pushed the pedal to to the floor and up again then i started the truck and it hasn't done it for a week.

The dealer said that it was ''right on'' when it was bouncing around? I live in a southern state so i don't think the 1500rpm cold start would be active.

maybe someone else can try this and post
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MikeHTally
 
 Posted: 07-01-2012, 10:30 AM
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Post #16

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUE EAGLE View Post
Mike I agree with Jon I think that one is for a rain storm
Dang! Well, that explains Tropical Storm Debby: she just sloshed through here.
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BLUE EAGLE
 
 Posted: 07-02-2012, 03:20 AM
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LOL
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modru2004
 
 Posted: 07-02-2012, 04:06 AM
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Post #18

if it smoothly goes up to 1500, then drops down to 1100, then back down to 750 or so all within a few seconds then thats normal.

if it goes up then down and then up again thats not normal.

and it doesn't matter what state you live in your always going to have a cold idle to some degree or another. the pcm may not take the idle up as high or as long as it would if it was colder but it still does it. i live in texas and on both my mustang and my ram truck even if they were sitting in the sun all day in 100+ degree heat they still run a cold idle for a few seconds on a "cold start". engines actually have very hot operating temperatures. most operating temps hit around the 160-180 degree area. its going to vary depending on speed traveled and ambient temp. but if the engine isn't somewhere in that range its not fully warmed up yet.

edit: do you have a video camera or smart phone? post a video of a startup and that would make it so much easier to figure out if somethings unusual.
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BLUE EAGLE
 
 Posted: 07-17-2012, 08:27 PM
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Post #19

I would love to post a vid . I have a blackberry i will give it a try,Thanks, Blue Eagle
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dmcelhannon
 
 Posted: 07-18-2012, 12:30 AM
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Post #20

The dealer is right. It's the normal operation for the Idle Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) on the Throttle Body (TB). The only other thing you may be describing is a dirty TB. While clean the TB, it is a very good idea to remove the IAT and the Throttle Positioner Sensor (TPS). Clean everything but only use Brake Cleaner! Make sure the throttle blade is not touching the inside bore of the TB. If it does, it will damage the soft metal. If you find the blade is touching, you can adjust the set screw an 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn. Just hold the TB up to the light and adjust it until you see a very very thin rim of light all the way around the plate and the inside bore of the TB. After you have the set screw adjust, you need to put some paint over the threads to keep it from moving. Then just carefully put everything back together. It's a simple do yourself job.

How-To: Clean Your Throttle Body

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