9 1/4 rear easy to set up

I just read an article in Mopar action about using an 9 1/4 rear out of a truck and using it for a car.

They claim it is so easy to set up almost to easy, much easier than an 8 3/4 or dana 9 3/4 .

This totally contridicts what I've been reading on this site for years that the 9 1/4 is really hard to set up properly.

the reason I bring it up is I've been wanting to do 4.56 gears and detroit tru trac on my 05' 4x4 but I've been scared to do it my self and nervous to try and find some one local that knows what their doing.

I guess my point is what are your opinions?

What should I be looking for in an installer ?

Does any one know a good shop close to S.E. WI?

here is some things for you to consider..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eD0CE...e_gdata_player

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/1011...k/viewall.html

I installed my own gears (along with a friend) and reading posts on DT scared the crap out me however the actual install itself wasn't nearly or even romoltely close to being as difficult as most say on this site. Yes you need to be mechanically inclinded and know how to use the right tools for the job. Love the video

when we did my rear end a couple weeks ago I was surprised how easy it was to do the lsd rebuild and take the axles off, i would like to try an remove the pinion an put new bearings on it now...

Originally Posted by chefred112

here is some things for you to consider..

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/1011...k/viewall.html

Originally Posted by 05Ramhendrix

I installed my own gears (along with a friend) and reading posts on DT scared the crap out me however the actual install itself wasn't nearly or even remotely close to being as difficult as most say on this site. Yes you need to be mechanically inclinded and know how to use the right tools for the job. Love the video

Thanks Fred! The video eases my fears a bit.
Ramhendrix, glad to hear this wasn't out of the realm of the possible. I'd like to put in a set of 4.56s when I do my manual trans swap (based on Hobo1's experience), but was plenty scared by what I'd read here... 4.88s (what I'd really like with a T-56) sound a bit tougher to install though.

I installed gears on a 1990 dodge 4x4 I had ,it had a different front end though a dana 44, I also traded it in a year later.

My 05' is 4x4 too how hard is the front to do? thanks

The 9.25 is easier to set up than any Dana. Reason 1: it uses side adjusters instead of shims to adjust backlash, although some people have this down to a science and know the precise shim thickness to get the right backlash. Reason 2 you dont need a case spreader to remove carrier housing.
I have done gears 9.25 several times. Here are a few tips: Use a pinion set-up bearing. You can buy one or make one yourself by honing/boring out a M804049 bearing. Crush sleeves suck so buy a crush sleeve eliminator kit from Randy's Ring and pinion. It helps to Have all the right tools!!! Yolk holder, bearing cup/ race installer kit, magnetic base w/ dial indicator, side adjustor tool (i learned how to make one from this website), inch & foot pound tourqe wrenches, and a shop press. Most of all learn, understand and know backlash, pinion depth, and bearing preload

Thanks for the replies. I have most of that stuff already from when I did my 90'. But I was wondering how hard it was to do the front also? 2005 1500

Figured it's all with the tools. I have the 3.92's to install. done one in class multi-years ago, wanting to do this now for the ram and durango.

I have worked on a number of different differentials/ axles. Primarily light duty car and truck stuff. Ford 8.8s, GM 10 (7.5, 8.2, 8.5) and 12 bolts, 9" Fords, and a GM corporate 14 bolt.

If you have a good knowledge of setting up gears, then its the same deal for any differential. Yes, some use shims, some use side adjusters, some have removable carriers, some don't, some have different pinion supports, etc...but the theory (to get the right contact patch, and back lash), is the same.

I rebuilt my 9.25 in my half ton last August. Prior to rebuilding it, I was unfamiliar with its nuances. There were people on this site who told me the 9.25 was a black art to rebuild, the special tools, etc, etc. Its not. They were lying, and had probably never even looked inside one themselves; bench racers.

You do need a tool to adjust the side adjusters, but that was as simple as welding a good sized nut (that fit the adjuster) onto a sacrifical socket. A 4 foot extension, and side adjustment is very easy with a hald inch drive wrench.

I also made a special tool to hold the pinion flange; a piece of flat stock with two holes to hold the flange, and a hole in the center to tighten the nut. I made it long enough so that it would hit the spring, and I could tighten the pinion nut using the spring as the resistance.

Setting the contact patch, backlash, pinion preload, etc, is all the same. The method is slightly different because of the side adjusters. With decent mechanical knowledge, a little ingenuity, and a working knowledge of gear set up, no one should be afraid to take apart a 9.25.

How abiut the front on a half ton 4wheel drive.
I think u need to spread the case?

I hope this is a simple question because i see some experienced guys on here... in simplest terms, I'm thinking of crackin the rear end to adjust the side adjusters because i have some whining goin on back there. I have made a tool for it and it works good..can someone tell me how to set it correctly? appreciate the info...

i re-did mine today and guessed on the side adjuster settings..I guessed good because virtually all whine/howl/buzzing sounds are gone...an ever faint whine while accelerating but none on decelerating...now i feel very good about it...

Subscribed about changing gears on the front diff on a 4X4

Originally Posted by chefred112

i re-did mine today and guessed on the side adjuster settings..I guessed good because virtually all whine/howl/buzzing sounds are gone...an ever faint whine while accelerating but none on decelerating...now i feel very good about it...

Fred, did you adjust with your homemade tool and was it through the 2 small holes in front or did you go through the axle?

yes..used my tool...but here is what i did...loosened the passenger side flush, pulled carrier out, adjusted drivers side since I could now reach in and turn it by hand, then put carrier back in against drivers side adjuster, held it in place and spun driveshaft to check alighnment, pulled carrier out, turned adjuster more and reinstalled carrier...I did this bout 4-5 times to where I thought it was where it should be...then turned the passenger side adjuster til it secured the carrier...then put the caps on and buttoned it up..