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#1 Old 12-10-2011, 01:45 PM
Krashtrouble
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Electrical problem

My 98 Durango's panel lights go on and off, when this happens the blower goes on and off too along with the automatic door locks and cigerette lighters, seems to go on and off if I hit bumps I know it's a loose connection somewhere just don't know where.All help will be appreciated
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#2 Old 12-14-2011, 03:29 PM
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If you don't know where too start, then you will have to start from scratch. Tracing wires with a ohm/volt meter.

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2003 Dodge Ram 2500HD QC 4x4 5.7 Hemi

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1998 Dodge Durango SLT 4x4 5.2 318 V8 *SOLD
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2002 Dodge Durango SXT 4x4 4.7 287 V8 *SOLD

T/S Lift + Rear add a Leaf - Treadwright Guard Dog M/T - 9.25 Open Rear - Transfer Case Lock - All Synthetic Fluids - USMC Active Duty

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#3 Old 12-24-2011, 04:21 PM
Rick99
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Sounds like a loose connection at the fuse box inside the cabin or maybe one of the other main connectors under the dash on the left side. Before breaking out the ohm meter, you should go under there and start wiggling wire harnesses and connectors to see if you can make it happen.

It could also be a power feed from under the hood, so if you don't find anything under the dash, start wiggling things under the hood between the power distribution center and the firewall.

2003 Durango SLT
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Mods: Remote Start
Just got a new set of BFG All-Terrains
Planning retrofit to 4WABS

1999 Durango SLT+
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01 T&C Limited 3.8l
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#4 Old 12-25-2011, 05:05 AM
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when that happened to me, it was the main power wire going to the fusebox under the hood.

1998 Durango 5.2/318
44RE-Ft 4x4
9.25/3.92 Open Differential
Chilipepper
88,250 miles

Mods/Repairs
Borla Stainless Steel catback exhaust, Bilsteins, TPS to .76, Plenum cover(Hughes engine), 180 thermostat (becool stat), Upper/lower ball joints(moog), Front painted brush bar(manik), Rear painted bumper guard(waag), Ram tail light covers (painted), Front corner light covers(Painted), Ventvisors, Roof racks removed, Grill/bumper inserts(grille-tech black), installed overhead console, signal mirrors w/brake module(muth), K&N GenII FIPK, Oil pan drain valve (summit), Ebc Slotted rotors, Duralast Ceramic pads, Shorty antenna, MSD 8.5mm wires, (summit), GTS aerowing(Autocustomizers.com), Royal purple oil, Royal purple differential fluid, Converted to lighted interior sun visors, Upgraded tires from 31x10.50x15 to 275/70/16 Goodyear fortera, PPH Headers w/Y-pipe, Optima yellow top(D31A), Super duty calipers(EGR), Stainless steel brake lines(EGR), 200 amp alternator(MCR), Viper electric fan conversion, Pcm(B&G custom flash), Valvoline atf+4, Pitman arm, idler arm, inner/outer tie rods(all replaced using moog parts), Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, 6000k Hid Bixenon headlights and 6000k fog lights, Led reverse light license plate frame, Auto dimming mirror
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#5 Old 01-07-2012, 01:28 AM
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Sounds like a connection to the BCM, this controls all these functions. I'd also check the ground between dash and battery, you should have little or zero ohms for a good connection

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1999 Durango SLT+ leather, 360ci 4x4, hughes plenum rebuild, superchips 3865, tow pkg, 3.55 LSD, rear tail light guard, K&N CAI, FM 50MM TB, crystal clear headlights, Torsion/shackle lift, Rancho RSX's, Pacesetter headers, dual trans & oil temp a-pillar pod, chrome deep trans pan, drilled & slotted rotors, 10 disc cd changer.

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#6 Old 03-29-2012, 08:19 AM
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My Durango had a gremlin of a problem like this...Look on the passenger side in the kick panel area and up behind the dash for ground bonding points. I had one that was loose and it caused all kinds of havoc. My heat/ac would work sometimes, doorlocks worked when they wanted to, and one time I shut the truck off and it continued to run with the radio on. Other times the radio would remain on until I shut the door and I guess the shock of the door closing broke/made contact to shut the circuit off. Theres another couple of bonding points behind the driver side dash/instrument cluster area that you could check too. Good luck!
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