![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
• • • • • • • • • |
![]() |
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Ball Joints
- Posted: 11-06-2009, 12:46 AM
|
![]() |
|
Post #1
I have a 2000 2WD 1500 with just over 107K miles and have worn out my ball joints. I have used this Ram as a daily driver over good roads most the time and am surprised that i need ball joints already. Yes, it has a good lube maintainence schedule. Is this normal for ball joint wear.
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| Sponsored Links |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 01:56 AM
|
![]() |
|
Post #2
Not totally sure about the 2wd rams, but I know the 4x4's are hard on ball joints. Most guys say replace them with Spicers when they wear out as they seem to hold up a little better.
Dan
__________________
2001 Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L 5-speed Superchips programmer, Ported throttle body, modified intake manifold, HS 1.7 roller rockers, other assorted trinkets.... 1987 Ramcharger 4x4 318 auto Pretty much retired 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 26" mud lites Absorbs my abusive urges so aforementioned dodge doesn't have to ![]()
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 11:17 AM
|
![]() |
|
Post #3
Mine is the same way. I'm putting all MOOGs on this time, tie-rod ends too.
I did the pitman arm and trailing arm last year. MOOG
__________________
94 Ram 1500 Reg Cab, Long Bed 2wd / AT 318 Magnum Extang Tuff Tonneau III Flowmaster original 40 265/75/16 Terra Tracs |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 12:13 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #4
my lower right bj was done at 45,000miles,,,,, replace a four with moog
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 01:40 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #5
Unfortunately, this seems to be common on all "light duty" trucks from all the manufacturers.
Ditto for brake rotors! |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 02:42 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #6
i just replaced all four this week on a 98 2WD it is normal for them to ware over time. have the ball joints been replaced before if so when?
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 04:32 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #7
Thanks to you all...I was thinking about doing this repair myself, BUT do not have the special tools and I would still need to take it somewhere to check alinement.
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
Post #8
I bought 4 on e-bay for about $50, no, they aren't Moog. A local Shade-tree mechanic said he'd install them for $100. I usually get a "Lifetime Alignment Agreement" from my local Firestone dealer, it's slightly more than the cost of 2 alignments and they'll recheck and realign the frontend FREE
every 6 months as long as you own the vehicle. As I just put 4 new tires on the beast I want to keep them in as good condition as possible. ![]()
__________________
1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport Quad-Cab 4x4 5.9L ![]() Brand new Fog Lamps (!&#*~@! Deer!) ![]() Cat-back Duals, BFG Long Trail T/A's P265-75R16 ![]() More mods to come as I can afford them! ![]() 2005 Dodge Neon SXT: My Econobox! ![]() Other cars and trucks from different makers but ALL American!
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-06-2009, 10:21 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #9
Since I have been thinking about what you all have said..I think I will give this repair some more thought. I will check on the Moog parts. I do enjoy working on my vehicles. I'm 67 yrs young and it's the muscle that's gotten old and I need aircraft landing lights to see. So if you all have any more ideas on this repair keep typing. Thanks again.
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-07-2009, 09:52 AM
|
![]() |
|
Post #10
I have 108,000 on my 2000 4X4, mechanic said my ball joints are worn. If replaced does the front end need re-alignment?
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-07-2009, 10:19 AM
|
![]() |
|
Post #11
Yes..but with that many miles you should change your pitman arm and inner tie rod ends. I have looked at alot of threads and have found some good advice. Like you I'm new to this type of repair but just ball joints themselves replaced I feel is a short fix. One thing for sure. You need and alignment after words.
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-07-2009, 10:37 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #12
What ever you do, don't get the cheap stuff. You get what you pay for. I replaced my ball joints with Moog brand.
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-08-2009, 09:31 AM
|
![]() |
|
Post #13
Many Thanks All.
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-10-2009, 01:43 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #14
I have always used the $30 parts when replacing tie-rod ends and ball joints. And I usually end up replacing them again after two years. Last year I started getting MOOG parts for all the replacements. If you search online for a good deal, then print that out and take it to Adavance Auto, they will match the price. This saved me $80 on 2 ball joints and 2 tie-rod ends this year.
They also will rent you a kit to change the uppers yourself. It's about $160, but you get a full refund when you return it. I found out this time that I had been using the kit wrong all these years, which is why I always had so much trouble with it. Now my lower BJs are tack welded, in addition to being pressed, so I have to have the shop put those in, but the rest I did myself. I replaced an inner and out Tieord on the same side. I pulled the whole unit, measured it center to center 3 times, then reassembled it the same length (one end at a time, then re-measure). It is within 1/16" of where it was before, so I think I am good. I'll probably have my mechanic check the alingment when he does my inspection anyway.
__________________
94 Ram 1500 Reg Cab, Long Bed 2wd / AT 318 Magnum Extang Tuff Tonneau III Flowmaster original 40 265/75/16 Terra Tracs |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Posted: 11-16-2009, 07:08 PM
|
![]() |
|
Post #15
Good info! I need to replace the ball joints on my '05. I thought it was the uppers as the boots are ripped but I used the Dodge bottle jack to raise each front tire just off the ground and all the play and knocking is in the bottom joints. So it looks like I'll be replacing both the upper control arms and lower ball joints. I have some big sockets and C clamps but it appears the ball joint kit is more specific (less likely to cause damage) so I'll probably just buy the kit and have it for future repairs as well. Even at $160, it's still way cheaper than having the dealership do it.
__________________
'05 2500 SLT QC LB Hemi auto/4.56 Reese 15k Tows a KZ Jag 28FJSS 5th wheel, 118k miles ex '95 2500reg/cab Cummins, '98 2500 CC 5spd Cummins, '01.5 QC Cummins, '03 QC Cummins '01 Durango SLT Plus 4.7 auto/3.55 Web browsing on a MacBook
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| ball joints | blkota | 2G Dakota - Tire/Wheel/Susp Talk | 10 | 02-14-2009 12:39 PM |
| Ball Joints? | ILUVGRITS | 2G Ram Performance Talk | 24 | 10-23-2006 10:10 AM |
| Bad U joints and Ball joints | zman2122 | 3G RAM - General Talk | 8 | 07-07-2006 09:51 PM |
| Ball Joints | racecar20 | 2G RAM - Sport Truck Talk | 13 | 03-23-2006 09:21 PM |
| got to replace the joints ball joints that is | StressboyD | 1G Durango - Tire/Wheel/Susp Talk | 0 | 02-04-2005 03:39 PM |
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
![]() | ![]() |

![]() |
![]() |