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MONKYMAN
 
 Posted: 07-10-2009, 05:10 PM
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Post #61

Quote:
Originally Posted by ozyran440 View Post
Sorry to hear about your friend's Dakota but it doesn't make me feel any better about mine.



Rattle can red on the truck is definitely out. I'll let the paint go completely to crap before I go that route. Once the red spray paint gets applied, it'll be sprayed here....then there....then in another spot....and by the time I'm finished it will look even worse than it does now.








In all honesty, dude, with the nickle and dime stuff this truck is giving me, the reliability issues Mopar trucks have (I speak from experience - this is my third Mopar truck and they've all had nickle and dime stuff going wrong), and just the future repair bills I see quickly adding up with this truck, I'm ready to offload it - the only reason I can't is the amount I owe against it. I'm counting down the days though, believe me.

A 5.9L V-8 under the hood doesn't do crap for me if the drivetrain behind it is questionable. That 5.9L won't do any good if the heads crack, like the R/T heads have a tendency of doing. I got the truck out of emotion, not logic. One year later, the emotion has worn off and I've been slapped in the face with reality.
I hear ya man! I POUR money into my 3.9 Qc dak. And my heads did crack at one point and i dropped a valve at the same time. I love Mopar stuff but I have had bad luck. 2 Waterpumps, 1 Altenator, 2 Powersteering pumps, 1 idler pulley, 2 belt tensioner pulleys and 1 tensioner arm. rebuilt the tranny once, ball joints.... The list goes on!
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2000 Dakota R/t 5.9 Club Cab: K&N CAI, Superchips 3715, 180* T-Stat, Flowmaster 60 series muffler with Dual Cuda tips.

Stereo:
Pioneer DEH-P510UB, Cerwin-Vega 6 1/2 Components up front, Cerwin-Vega 6x9 in back, Cerwin-Vega V400.4 and S1000.1 Amps, 3 Cerwin-Vega Vmax102 10 inch subs.
(Waiting for dynamat and then installing)

Other rides:
1991 Nissan 300zx
2000 Dodge Dakota Qc (sold Oct 09)
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Cody Johnston
 
 Posted: 07-11-2009, 10:53 AM
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Post #62

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4X4 Dakota
 
  Nice logo - Posted: 08-09-2009, 12:48 PM
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Post #63

Where did ya get the 4.7 magnum logo at?
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JD Fox
 
 Posted: 08-26-2009, 11:21 PM
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Post #64

Here she is



K&N Air Intake
3 inch Cat back system with a Spin Tech Muffler
16 inch American Racing Python Wheels (for now)

LOTS MORE to come in the future.
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dakota horse
 
 Posted: 09-08-2009, 03:17 PM
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Post #65

Heres my Dodge Dakota, 2001 quad cab 2X4.
Only problems is the gas gauge quits working for a day when i go through puddles, off roading, anything wet that soaks the underside of it, or when im at half a tank of gas, and on occasions it stalls, but I love my truck.









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dust_webbs
 
 Posted: 10-12-2009, 09:19 AM
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Post #66

hear is some pics of my truck seance i got it washed and waxed and i found my camera.

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mods drop in k&n air filter cheap diamond plate toolbox drop in bed liner
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RTSpeeddemon
 
 Posted: 10-20-2009, 11:49 AM
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Post #67

I haven't posted on here for awhile so might as well add a few pics.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg normal_Arm_Drop_June_5___09_241.jpg (64.0 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 4415_1069747197562_1642560143_182060_1767804_n.jpg (56.3 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg n1642560143_182043_3305059.jpg (49.3 KB, 1 views)
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04dodgeroar
 
 Posted: 10-20-2009, 07:39 PM
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Post #68

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Originally Posted by RTSpeeddemon View Post
I haven't posted on here for awhile so might as well add a few pics.
Not only a nice R/T but super fast too.Congrats.I saw a vid on youtube of you/truck running a 10 something across the quarter.Turbo-ed,aren't you??
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04 Dakota RCSB 2wd 4.7 auto;4.56s/LSD,headers/3'' single/no cats,08 Intake manifold,74mm TB,CAI,HO cams,SCT,electric fan,180*t-stat
04 Ram 1500 RCSB 2wd 5.7 auto;3.92s/LSD,shorty headers/3''single/gutted cats,CAI,superchips,electric fan,180*t-stat
99 Dakota R/T RCSB;SCT,electric fan,180*t-stat
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RTSpeeddemon
 
 Posted: 10-21-2009, 07:48 AM
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Post #69

Yes Turboed! Thanks!
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cliffs
 
 Posted: 10-21-2009, 05:27 PM
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Post #70

I like whats under the hood man !
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RTSpeeddemon
 
 Posted: 10-22-2009, 08:15 AM
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Post #71

Thanks!
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67Vrod
 
 Posted: 11-05-2009, 11:47 PM
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Post #72

I'm in La Crosse, Wi. I've had numerous trucks and 4x4's. My first was a4x2 Chevy Luv, next a Plymouth Arrow then a beater chevy. then a string of beaters. Then I got my first nice 4x4, a 98 Ranger I lifted 6" and put on some 35 BFG's. Traded that in on an 07 Hummer H3. Man that wa ssweet. Traded that in when I found out I was getting laid off. Got Chev Colorado 4x2. Nice truck but really wanted a 4x4. Then I found this 01 Dak. Since the Dak is now drivable I gave the colorado to my boy in college. Anyway onto my "New" truck.

This is pretty long, but there was alot in putting it together.
Well compared to 99% of the very nice trucks here, mine looks pretty rough. Although considerring I bought a wreck and have spent the last 5 months resurecting it. Look at the pics. The previouse/original owner had it paid off so he cancelled the full coverage. An Ins co would have totalled it. He hit a tree last Feb. and this thing had blown bags, body damage, mechanical damage, frame damage, brain damage. Man what a mess. After I started working on it I thought to myself "Did I make a mistake?" I paid $1000 for the truck. I had a set of 17" wheels I had left over from my H3. Didn't know the 2, 6 lug patterns were different, so I bought a set of wheel adapters. Bought a new set of BFG MT's 255/75/17. Got em mounted and then some scumbag stole 2 of em.The wheels were an older Nascar brand wheel that has been updated. I did the next best thing, found out 04-07 GMC Yukon wheels looked similar. I had all the center caps from the other wheels so I milled out the gmc wheels and left off the gm caps. Then painted em to match. Black. Bought 2 more new tires and bam, look alikes. I also got wheel locks!
As for repairs everything from the firewall foreward on the driver side was bent or crushed. Even the frame horn was curled back around toward the tire. What a mess.
After spending about another $3700 in parts and had to have the frame straightened ($300 for about 20 hrs of work) The guy is a body and frame man at a local dealer and has a frame machine in a small shop and does the work on the side. iI's on the road, but it's not done. Still needs the frame tweeked, front bumper cover installed, torsions cranked to clear the fender liners, paint, headers, dual exhaust. Here's a list of the things I replaced.

Hood
Grill
Grill support
DS Fender (new) and liner
Fender flair
Upper/lower core support
Frame horn from 98 dak. Could'nt find one from ANY other year. They were all damaged.
Bumper, brackets and cover (new)
Head lights (Clear and installed HID's) well one so far
Radiator
A/C condesor (new)
New external tranny cooler
Electric fan
Power steering pump 2 times. (first one was used and bad), pulley, resevouir and
high press line.
New oil and PS pressure switches
Water pump (new)
New harmonic Balancer (was crushed)
Machanical fan
New front seal
Battery tray
Master cylinder, resevioure and several lines
Air bags and bag comp
Washer/overflow tank
All the T fittings for the large vacumn line and line
Splice about 30 wires back together at the fuse box
New IAC valve and TPS
Intake manifold (Had a hole in the back of it from hitting the firewall)
New vacumn fittings that screw into back of head
New driving lights
New acsesary belt
New battery. The old 1 was crushed.
New horns Not yet

I had to modify the 98 frame horn as they are taller than the 01 and the steering box mounts on the rail. Of course in 01 they use rack & pinion. I stepped the bottum of the 98 and that gave me a nice place to weld the new frame horn. Then I plated it. Turned out pretty nice. I also plan to biuld a mount to hang my plow.
Yes I am confident in my welding skills. Built the frame for my rat rod. ( Hmm why don't I do this for a living? Machinist by trade.)
I have a set of H14 Bi-Xenon (HID high and low beam). The main diference is the way the H14's mount in the headlamp. I have an old assembly I'll try to modify and mount the H14's in it. That would be sweat. The other diference is there is an extra harness that sends power to the bulb fixture and moves the light up and down. Thats how they get the HID high and low. I took a pic of the 1 HID installed on driver side. You can tell the diference. The bulb on pass side is a cheap hid look alike. There what I had on hand for 9007. Ya they stink. Gonna through them out.
Well here's some pics. The second pic is just the parking lights. They are a blueish color when not lit and amber when lit. I forget the name. I have some "silver" side marker lights bulbs. I'll add some better "after" pics tomarrow.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MVC-001S.JPG (27.1 KB, 1 views)
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Last edited by 67Vrod : 11-06-2009 at 12:08 AM.
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67Vrod
 
 Posted: 11-07-2009, 12:40 AM
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Post #73

Here's a pic of the inner frame rail were i plated and blended together. it looks pretty good and a better pic of the front end.
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File Type: jpg MVC-016S.JPG (37.8 KB, 1 views)
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AP
 
 Posted: 11-07-2009, 06:12 AM
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Post #74

Damn! That's alot of work! Looks good! Keep us posted till the end!
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My first new vehicle: 2003 Dodge Dakota Stampede 4X2 short bed
Graphite Metallic Clear Coat
4.7L. Magnum V8
5-45RFE auto, 3:92 gears anti-slip diff.
Mods: K&N filter, and MBRP performance exhaust,
stainless steel " Cuda Style " dual cat-back with roll
pan with exhaust openings, Jason bed cover, and alot of exterior acessories!NEW JUST ADDED AN AWSOME SHAKER HOOD!!
My second vehicle : 1998 Dodge Durango SLT Plus 4X4
Deep Amethyst Pearl Coat
5.2 L. Magnum SMPI V8

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67Vrod
 
 Posted: 11-07-2009, 08:39 AM
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Post #75

Will do.
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cliffs
 
 Posted: 11-07-2009, 07:48 PM
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Post #76

where did u get those head lights? I want some just like them
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fivelitereater
 
 Posted: 11-08-2009, 11:05 AM
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Post #77

A few pics of my 98 R/T:















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No matter how fast you think YOU are... There IS ALWAYS someone FASTER!!!

MODIFICATIONS: ATI PROCHARGER (P1SC) - FED FROM SHAKER HOOD, 8LB PULLEY & FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER, AEROMOTIVE BOOST REFERENCED EFMU & FUEL PUMP, MP VALVE COVERS, PORTED AND POLISHED THROTTLE BODY, EDELBROCK HEADERS, HARLAND SHARP 1.7 ROLLERS, TRUE DUAL EXHAUST WITH X-PIPE, FLOWMASTER SINGLE CHAMBER RACE MUFFLERS, C4 IGNITION COIL, MSD SUPER CONDUCTOR WIRES, MSD 6A, MSD BOOST TIMING MASTER, AUTOLITE AR3923 SPARK PLUGS GAPPED AT .35, HYPERTECH POWER PROGRAMMER, BATTERY RELOCATED TO THE BED AREA, BATTERY/ALTERNATOR/IGNITION CUT-OFF SWITCH, 180 T-STAT, STEWART WARNER FUEL PSI, BOOST AND A/F RATIO GUAGES, B&M MEGASHIFTER, POWER STOP ROTORS. COME GET SOME FORD BOY....
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AP
 
 Posted: 11-08-2009, 05:59 PM
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Post #78

AWSOME!! I was wondering when you were gonna post pics of your ride! What's with the tape on your bubble? Did ya find and answer on your trans issue?
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My first new vehicle: 2003 Dodge Dakota Stampede 4X2 short bed
Graphite Metallic Clear Coat
4.7L. Magnum V8
5-45RFE auto, 3:92 gears anti-slip diff.
Mods: K&N filter, and MBRP performance exhaust,
stainless steel " Cuda Style " dual cat-back with roll
pan with exhaust openings, Jason bed cover, and alot of exterior acessories!NEW JUST ADDED AN AWSOME SHAKER HOOD!!
My second vehicle : 1998 Dodge Durango SLT Plus 4X4
Deep Amethyst Pearl Coat
5.2 L. Magnum SMPI V8

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fivelitereater
 
 Posted: 11-08-2009, 06:46 PM
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Post #79

Quote:
Originally Posted by AP View Post
AWSOME!! I was wondering when you were gonna post pics of your ride! What's with the tape on your bubble? Did ya find and answer on your trans issue?

The tape is to prevent the paint from getting screwed up. The bubble does not touch the hood until I hit the throttle. I do not have a good work around for it. You cannot see the tape unless the hood is open.

I'm going to to have Griner build the 46RE. I really do not want to piss around with a 727 swap right now, but want to get the truck running and out of my garage so I can work on other things.
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No matter how fast you think YOU are... There IS ALWAYS someone FASTER!!!

MODIFICATIONS: ATI PROCHARGER (P1SC) - FED FROM SHAKER HOOD, 8LB PULLEY & FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER, AEROMOTIVE BOOST REFERENCED EFMU & FUEL PUMP, MP VALVE COVERS, PORTED AND POLISHED THROTTLE BODY, EDELBROCK HEADERS, HARLAND SHARP 1.7 ROLLERS, TRUE DUAL EXHAUST WITH X-PIPE, FLOWMASTER SINGLE CHAMBER RACE MUFFLERS, C4 IGNITION COIL, MSD SUPER CONDUCTOR WIRES, MSD 6A, MSD BOOST TIMING MASTER, AUTOLITE AR3923 SPARK PLUGS GAPPED AT .35, HYPERTECH POWER PROGRAMMER, BATTERY RELOCATED TO THE BED AREA, BATTERY/ALTERNATOR/IGNITION CUT-OFF SWITCH, 180 T-STAT, STEWART WARNER FUEL PSI, BOOST AND A/F RATIO GUAGES, B&M MEGASHIFTER, POWER STOP ROTORS. COME GET SOME FORD BOY....
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AP
 
 Posted: 11-08-2009, 11:06 PM
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Post #80

I noticed that. I had a few tiny scuffs in the same place on my bubble. Not in the very front though. I was thinking about gluing some window weather stripping around that edge ( just where it was hitting ) on the hood to prevent that happening again. Right now I can't notice the scuffing hardly. I know what you mean about the room. I need to sell my Dak to make room for things that I need to work on.
__________________
My first new vehicle: 2003 Dodge Dakota Stampede 4X2 short bed
Graphite Metallic Clear Coat
4.7L. Magnum V8
5-45RFE auto, 3:92 gears anti-slip diff.
Mods: K&N filter, and MBRP performance exhaust,
stainless steel " Cuda Style " dual cat-back with roll
pan with exhaust openings, Jason bed cover, and alot of exterior acessories!NEW JUST ADDED AN AWSOME SHAKER HOOD!!
My second vehicle : 1998 Dodge Durango SLT Plus 4X4
Deep Amethyst Pearl Coat
5.2 L. Magnum SMPI V8

Click HERE to view the complete signature...
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