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Mohawk72
 
  What's the Best Rustproofing Method? - Posted: 08-31-2009, 04:03 AM
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Post #1

Howdy from the Salty North,

Here in Central NY they pride themselves on spreading as much salt around as they can. The roads here are actually white with it as soon as the first snow flake flies. Syracuse actually is called Salt City as they had Indians mining salt here years ago.

Soooo, My big question is, How can I make my NEW truck last as long as I can?

As a kid, I worked for Ziebart Rustproofing so I know all the spots that are normally hit. The extra spots they hit are from drilling holes in the bottom of doors and spraying inside the doors and fenders and sealing the spots with rubber plugs.

I really think I can do a better job myself using the spray can rust proofing.
And I then have control to get into all the little nooks and crannies where they normally won't hit.
I am going to remove the fender liners and get behind them and I can even pull the bed if needed.
Pulling the Cab is Major work and too many wires and connections to deal with. But I have done that on older trucks.

I want to do this while the truck is still new and squeaky clean underneath.

It's so pretty underneath I actually got under and took some pics with the digital.

Let me know what you all think is the best method?
And what you think is the Best Spray on Brand?

Mohawk72
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johndoe123
 
 Posted: 08-31-2009, 11:44 PM
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Post #2

Washing the vehicle w/ undercarriage wash after driving through freshly salted roads and on a regular basis does wonders...

I no longer live in the rust belt. Here they use sand. Much better.
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finc.jb
 
 Posted: 09-01-2009, 10:45 AM
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Post #3

Here in Winnipeg, I got an "active" cathodic(spelling?) rust prevention system. I was told that it is the same system that is used in the oil industry and in salt mines etc...
It has a control unit under the hood and 2 sacrificial anodes attached(1 in the hood area and 1 under the truck on the frame by the box). The theory is that the anodes will rust away before anything happens to the truck and you would just replace them and not body panels.

Hope this helps you out
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macleoud
 
 Posted: 09-01-2009, 05:06 PM
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Post #4

where you get this? what was the cost?
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05DodgeDakota
 
 Posted: 09-01-2009, 05:19 PM
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Post #5

I undercoated my whole truck with the 3M and Duplicolor brand stuff from Advance Auto Parts. Stuff is expensive though, about $11 a can, and it takes alot.
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05DodgeDakota
 
 Posted: 09-01-2009, 05:20 PM
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Post #6

Also just pressure wash the under side alot and thencoat the whole thing with WD-40, works wonders!
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finc.jb
 
 Posted: 09-02-2009, 08:40 AM
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Post #7

I actually got it from my dealer, it is part of their "Diamond Kote" protection package. At lunch I'll go and see if there is a brand name on the control unit and post it up for all. Cost was around 500 CDN for the unit and paint sealer installed.
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td_20
 
 Posted: 09-02-2009, 05:49 PM
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Post #8

Quote:
Originally Posted by finc.jb View Post
Here in Winnipeg, I got an "active" cathodic(spelling?) rust prevention system. I was told that it is the same system that is used in the oil industry and in salt mines etc...
It has a control unit under the hood and 2 sacrificial anodes attached(1 in the hood area and 1 under the truck on the frame by the box). The theory is that the anodes will rust away before anything happens to the truck and you would just replace them and not body panels.

Hope this helps you out
We use this at work, Cathodic protection systems are most commonly used to protect steel, water or fuel pipelines and storage tanks, steel pier piles, ships, offshore oil platforms and onshore oil well casings.

Here is a link to automotive one.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows...n%2BSystem.jsp
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DartBoy01
 
 Posted: 09-02-2009, 06:06 PM
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Post #9

POR-15 it will last longer than your truck ever will.

http://www.por15.com/
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finc.jb
 
 Posted: 09-02-2009, 10:18 PM
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Post #10

Quote:
Originally Posted by td_20 View Post
We use this at work, Cathodic protection systems are most commonly used to protect steel, water or fuel pipelines and storage tanks, steel pier piles, ships, offshore oil platforms and onshore oil well casings.

Here is a link to automotive one.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows...n%2BSystem.jsp
That one isn't active though as far as I know. It doesn't have any sacrificial anodes.
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Heminut
 
 Posted: 09-03-2009, 12:42 PM
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Post #11

Hi Mohawk: I am just south of ya in Potter county Pa. and we got same problem.I spray entire under carriage with used trnsmission oil twice a year.I drill 1/2" holes in doors,sills and any place that I cant get the "rockershultz " gun into.It stinks for around a week,but,after 7 years of 90,000+ miles my 02 Dakota looked like new.I also wax it at least 2 more times in a heated garage in winter.After it warmes up,I wire brush (hand and power) all of the painted parts underneath and re-paint with either a spray rustoleum or by spray gun. It really works,but,be prepared for some smell for a week ! LOL
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jeeper3b
 
 Posted: 09-03-2009, 05:33 PM
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hi Mohawk, here in super salty Nova Scotia Canada, we have salt on the roads and salt in the air , for a wet undercoating I like the product called Fluid Film. the stuff creeps like crazy and its enviro clean . you can buy it in spray bombs or by the litre/gallon.
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Heminut
 
 Posted: 09-03-2009, 10:28 PM
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Will they ship that stuff to the U.S.A. ? An awful lot of paints are no longer allowed even by common carrier here in Penna. In order to get oil based paint for his barn,my pal had to drive to Virginia to get it.More crazy Govt crap.
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topgun
 
 Posted: 09-03-2009, 11:47 PM
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There are a lot of products available in Canada that aren't available here in the states. Not sure what to do and time is running out fast.

I do see that the Fluid Film is available here. Does it wash off and need to be reapplied every few years? Kinda like the Crown stuff you guys have up there?
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Heminut
 
 Posted: 09-04-2009, 12:56 AM
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Topgun: Is yers an TRX4 ? looks kinda like mine except mine has the slightly darker metalic bumpers and fender flares.If ya "clay" it, you will be suprized as the metalic silver really comes to life. I think all those products are fine,but,I will stick to the oil as it has been working for over 30 years for me.
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topgun
 
 Posted: 09-04-2009, 07:57 AM
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No, it is a Sport.

Doesn't the oil drip for days? I assume you mean old motor oil?
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Heminut
 
 Posted: 09-05-2009, 12:29 AM
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Naw..I aquire used trans oil as it seems to soak in better.Try this,I paint my drive shaft,but,stock they rust up fast.Wipe a rusty spot with an oil soaked rag,examine next day after parking over a telltale spot...do it several days in a row,it takes many times to drip....even after soaking any vehicle and allowing it to drip while driving over an dusty road...this dust sticks just a little and viola...no problem.The holes I drill in the door sills are just about half way towards the hinge side.You can stick the gun nozzle into the door latch openings etc.First,go to a NAPA store and get an $3 bag of 1/2" plugs to put into the holes.In fact,I drill the holes,ream slightly to de-burr,then wipe in a generous amout of rustoelum paint and this stops any rust of the bare metal from drilling.I shoot all the frame,suspension arms etc until it runs out...do the underhood stuff to..not the exhaust manifolds or serp belt....the dusty road drive and its over! DO NOT SPRAY ANY OF THE EXHAUST...it should be obvious,but,I dont want y'all showin up here after yer Ram burnt up.LOL
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jeeper3b
 
 Posted: 09-05-2009, 04:28 PM
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fluid film comes from the states, here is a link to the site . http://www.fluid-film.com/company.html It is a nice product that wont drip unless you put on way to much.
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Heminut
 
 Posted: 09-05-2009, 10:38 PM
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Post #19

Hey Jeeper: Im interested,but,can not get pricing from their website.How much is a gallon ?
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jeeper3b
 
 Posted: 09-06-2009, 06:00 AM
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Here is a link to an online store that ships, http://www.theruststore.com/Fluid-Film-C67.aspx
the stuff is a bit expensive , but it does work.
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