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Water in oil???

25K views 18 replies 14 participants last post by  07quad 
#1 ·
I was changing my oil today and found a yellowish beigeish foam on the bottom of my oil cap. Im not sure exactly what it is but im thinking it is water in the oil. Which means it could be a head gasket leak. Please tell me im wrong....
 

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#3 ·
The only time I've ever seen that much of the water in oil look is when the head gasket is bad
 
#4 ·
That is all there was though. There wasnt any in the oil that i drained. I might have lost very little coolant. That is water though?
 
#5 ·
Yes, it is water. If it's just on the cap, there is nothing to worry about. The Positive Crankcase Ventialtion system will cause that. I saw that on my 4.7 on the very first oil change. I will say this, the 4.7 is prone to sludge, so make sure you are using a good quality oil and changing it according to the maintenance schedule.
 
#6 ·
Thats good. Im using mobil 1 full synthetic. How often should i change it? I believe it is rated for 15000 miles but i changed it at 8000.
 
#9 ·
Boyo336 said:
Also letting the engine completely warm up and run for a bit will help keep that from happening.
Gives the engine a chance to burn off the condensation before ya shut her down.
So are you saying that i need to let it warm up more or that i need to let it idle more before turning it off?
 
#10 ·
It's normal to have a small amount of condensation under the oil cap sometimes. Keep an eye on your coolant level and make sure there's no decreases in the levels. As long as the levels stay the same and the amount of foam doesn't increase you're OK.
 
#11 ·
JohnMcD348 said:
It's normal to have a small amount of condensation under the oil cap sometimes. Keep an eye on your coolant level and make sure there's no decreases in the levels. As long as the levels stay the same and the amount of foam doesn't increase you're OK.

Ditto...my HEMI does this as well. I doesn't matter how long I've driven, whether or not the oil was changed recently, or even the type of oil I've use. I always have some condensation under the oil cap. It IS normal. Like '*******' said with today's positive crankcase ventilation systems moisture is normal. The system is always pulling fresh air into the crankcase, I believe to help prevent blowby. Just watch for any significant changes.
 
#12 ·
i always thought it was because of the filler tubes for the oil. on all my other cars, the oil fill cap was right on the valve cover. on this one, theres a filler tube. moisture gets trapped there when the motor runs, it doesnt burn off for me no matter how long it let it warm up or idle before i shut it down. its normal though.
 
#13 ·
ivegotcows671 said:
So are you saying that i need to let it warm up more or that i need to let it idle more before turning it off?
No, you don't want to do that. What generates the most condensation is short trips where the engine doesn't get up to temp. The hotter the engine, the quicker and more condensation burns off.
 
#14 ·
No need for "warm up". The engine just needs to get hot enough to turn that water into steam and then blow it out. My Hemi with 94K has no "chocolate milk" or sludge buildup on the cap or the filler tube. I suspect the P.O. did a lot of highway miles (86K in four years with some towing) and regular oil changes. The oil changes will continue, the heavy highway miles won't (no need).
 
#15 ·
MikeHTally said:
No need for "warm up". The engine just needs to get hot enough to turn that water into steam and then blow it out. My Hemi with 94K has no "chocolate milk" or sludge buildup on the cap or the filler tube. I suspect the P.O. did a lot of highway miles (86K in four years with some towing) and regular oil changes. The oil changes will continue, the heavy highway miles won't (no need).
That is very true, I've been kicking this problem around in my head for a while now. The highest my engine coolant Temp. has been is 208, the highest for my engine oil 165, and the Trans. max is 135. This is with at least a dozen 100 mile + runs with speeds between 65- 85 Mph. With all the extra coolers and large radiators we have on these trucks, I have my doubts if most of us ever get hot enough, for long enough, to burn the condensation out of any of the oils. Don't get me wrong running cool is the best way to preserve oils, but I think, unless you are working these trucks as hard they were built for, condensation is a very real problem with no easy solution. Even the exhaust, I've never seen a vehicle, blow as much condensation out of the tail pipe, as consistently as this 07. Does anyone know how the synthetic motor oils hold up to condensation, dumping regular oil every 3000 Mil. is one thing, but changing synthetics once a year could be a whole other ball of wax.
 
#16 ·
I drive 100 miles a day, use synthetics that I change every 5000 to 8000 miles, and I still get condensation. Condensation is caused by the heating and cooling cycles that our engines go through. Even if we get the engines hot enough to burn off the water, when we shut them down there will always be a temperature change. With that cooling process we get condensation. Because our engines are sealed, that water or steam if you will, collects in high places. The oil filler tube being the highest. That is normal in almost all modern emissions sealed systems. Some just see it more than others. As long as the oil in the engine is not of a milky consistency on the dip stick or when you change it, you will be just fine.
 
#17 ·
I too believe its just condensation on the cap. Change the oil and check it every week for the next month or two. If you see it again, you may have a problem or you need to change the way you drive.
 
#18 ·
No need to worry. If you do a seach for "yellow crap in oil", it's a thread I started over a year ago because I have the same thing. I mainly get it in the winter months and not so much in the summer. It's normal. :cool:
 
#19 ·
thats nothing to worry about. Up here in Canada we get them in, the 4.7's especially, and you actually have to scoop the yellow goo out of the oil fill tube before you can out oil in it. there is a revised pcv system that you can get from the dealer (p/n 05191104AA) that replaces the pcv valve with a crankcase ventilation valve in the back of the left head. the tsb# is 25-001-06, for the pcv system freezing.
 
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