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What's the Best Rustproofing Method?

37K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Heminut 
#1 ·
Howdy from the Salty North,

Here in Central NY they pride themselves on spreading as much salt around as they can. The roads here are actually white with it as soon as the first snow flake flies. Syracuse actually is called Salt City as they had Indians mining salt here years ago.

Soooo, My big question is, How can I make my NEW truck last as long as I can?

As a kid, I worked for Ziebart Rustproofing so I know all the spots that are normally hit. The extra spots they hit are from drilling holes in the bottom of doors and spraying inside the doors and fenders and sealing the spots with rubber plugs.

I really think I can do a better job myself using the spray can rust proofing.
And I then have control to get into all the little nooks and crannies where they normally won't hit.
I am going to remove the fender liners and get behind them and I can even pull the bed if needed.
Pulling the Cab is Major work and too many wires and connections to deal with. But I have done that on older trucks.

I want to do this while the truck is still new and squeaky clean underneath.

It's so pretty underneath I actually got under and took some pics with the digital.

Let me know what you all think is the best method?
And what you think is the Best Spray on Brand?

Mohawk72
 
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#3 ·
Here in Winnipeg, I got an "active" cathodic(spelling?) rust prevention system. I was told that it is the same system that is used in the oil industry and in salt mines etc...
It has a control unit under the hood and 2 sacrificial anodes attached(1 in the hood area and 1 under the truck on the frame by the box). The theory is that the anodes will rust away before anything happens to the truck and you would just replace them and not body panels.

Hope this helps you out
 
#8 ·
#4 ·
where you get this? what was the cost?
 
#5 ·
I undercoated my whole truck with the 3M and Duplicolor brand stuff from Advance Auto Parts. Stuff is expensive though, about $11 a can, and it takes alot.
 
#6 ·
Also just pressure wash the under side alot and thencoat the whole thing with WD-40, works wonders!
 
#7 ·
I actually got it from my dealer, it is part of their "Diamond Kote" protection package. At lunch I'll go and see if there is a brand name on the control unit and post it up for all. Cost was around 500 CDN for the unit and paint sealer installed.
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
Hi Mohawk: I am just south of ya in Potter county Pa. and we got same problem.I spray entire under carriage with used trnsmission oil twice a year.I drill 1/2" holes in doors,sills and any place that I cant get the "rockershultz " gun into.It stinks for around a week,but,after 7 years of 90,000+ miles my 02 Dakota looked like new.I also wax it at least 2 more times in a heated garage in winter.After it warmes up,I wire brush (hand and power) all of the painted parts underneath and re-paint with either a spray rustoleum or by spray gun. It really works,but,be prepared for some smell for a week ! LOL
 
#12 ·
hi Mohawk, here in super salty Nova Scotia Canada, we have salt on the roads and salt in the air , for a wet undercoating I like the product called Fluid Film. the stuff creeps like crazy and its enviro clean :) . you can buy it in spray bombs or by the litre/gallon.
 
#14 ·
There are a lot of products available in Canada that aren't available here in the states. Not sure what to do and time is running out fast.

I do see that the Fluid Film is available here. Does it wash off and need to be reapplied every few years? Kinda like the Crown stuff you guys have up there?
 
#15 ·
Topgun: Is yers an TRX4 ? looks kinda like mine except mine has the slightly darker metalic bumpers and fender flares.If ya "clay" it, you will be suprized as the metalic silver really comes to life. I think all those products are fine,but,I will stick to the oil as it has been working for over 30 years for me.
 
#17 ·
Naw..I aquire used trans oil as it seems to soak in better.Try this,I paint my drive shaft,but,stock they rust up fast.Wipe a rusty spot with an oil soaked rag,examine next day after parking over a telltale spot...do it several days in a row,it takes many times to drip....even after soaking any vehicle and allowing it to drip while driving over an dusty road...this dust sticks just a little and viola...no problem.The holes I drill in the door sills are just about half way towards the hinge side.You can stick the gun nozzle into the door latch openings etc.First,go to a NAPA store and get an $3 bag of 1/2" plugs to put into the holes.In fact,I drill the holes,ream slightly to de-burr,then wipe in a generous amout of rustoelum paint and this stops any rust of the bare metal from drilling.I shoot all the frame,suspension arms etc until it runs out...do the underhood stuff to..not the exhaust manifolds or serp belt....the dusty road drive and its over! DO NOT SPRAY ANY OF THE EXHAUST...it should be obvious,but,I dont want y'all showin up here after yer Ram burnt up.LOL
 
#21 · (Edited)
Well Hey People,

I gotta tell you something. I belong to 3 other Dodge Forums and I posted the same post on all 4 forums and this Forum is the most active and helpfull by far than the other 3.

Pats on the Back All Around. :worthy::worthy::worthy:

I really like some of the ideas on here.

You guys can drive my truck anytime, I can tell by the steps you take that you are a fanatic's about your wheels, Just like the rest of us.

The dealer still talks about when I yanked my bed so I could wax between the cab and bed on one of my other trucks.

Thanks for the tips guys. But don't stop now.

There have been a few ideas here that I never heard of before.

Atta Boy.

Mohawk
 
#22 ·
Thanks Mohawk for the compliment...I think ! LOL. I grew up in the north Penna mountains,the end of the Applichia chain and we were pretty poor.I started working for wheels when I was 10.All my life,I have spent more time keeping my trusty ride in the best shape for the most part. I do think ya got me beat....pulling the bed to wax in between is pretty intense ! Hmmmm...maybe tomorrow,I will see just what is involved by doing mine. zJust kiddin.. One last thing.My first real new wheels was an 3 speed english bike.I worked so hard to get it and washed it every day.Mom was so impressed at how much I polished each spoke so when it got rainy,she helped me put newspaper on the kitchen floor and table to bring it in and carefully clean it ! LOL Have fun !
 
#23 ·
[From their website]
What makes Fluid Film different from the competition?
Where most products contain between seventy and ninety percent solvent, Fluid Film contains none except for its propellant, meaning long lasting lubrication and protection. With no solvent, Fluid Film won't evaporate or become sticky or gummy, allowing it to migrate to other areas for lubrication or protection. With its unique lanolin base, Fluid Film will actually imbed itself in the pores of metal, resisting wash off and keeping moisture and oxygen from getting to the base metal. Containing no solvent content, Fluid Film lends itself to numerous applications where the comparative solvent-based products would not even be considered.

Does Fluid Film protect all metals?
Fluid Film will protect all metals from oxidation and atmospheric corrosion, including steel, copper, lead, tin and zinc. It will stop chrome and brass from pitting and aluminum and magnesium from oxidizing.
 
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