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Just dyno'd my 2011 Ram...Stock tune vs HemiFever's Tune

98K views 95 replies 22 participants last post by  HEMI-PWRD 
#1 ·
I knew there were some pretty big gains I felt when I was data logging for Hemifever to get my custom tune just right....this just reconfirms what I was seeing from the logs.....

Pulls were in 85degree weather and 24% humidity


I must say these newer Dodge rams are hard to dyno espically if you have a Torque Converter...I wanna say I probably went through close to 15 pulls because even on the stock tune it just wanted to pull pretty funny on the top end maybe because it was just on the rollers vs the street. After talking to HemiFever (Sean) he told me something about a short runner valve that opens on the top end that usually makes late model dodges hard to dyno.... He might need to chime in to explain it a little more. I do have a couple of vids but I'm sure I those wont go up until tomorrow (gotta go to work tonight). Next up will be some track time's (maybe in 2 weeks) on these 22" wheels....depending on what I run/traction I might just buy some 17s or 18s with DRs for the rear.
 
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#44 · (Edited)
catsltd is right,
Ton O' crap to remember and you need to establish a pattern/rhythm
and if you're new to the track you WILL be too nervous to get it all perfect.




Set your Throttle Booster on your Trinity to MAX!
it's a throttle sensitivity adjuster that means you can use a lot less pedal to hit the max.

Move your Drivers seat forward about 4" closer than you use for normal driving.
It will make your leg faster and more forceful if it doesn't need travel as far.

Buckle your helmet! ...and make sure you have one (Grant! lol)
I turn my A/C on while in the last part of the stage lanes to get the e-fan going and get my coolant and underhood temps down.

I shut off esp/traction control, engage tow/haul mode,transfercase in 2WD, manually shift to 1st gear as I approach the water box.
Quick burn out (no brake, just punch the gas after driving out of the waterbox) while holding the shifter left so it will go to second gear.
I let go of the throttle right after it hits 2nd and my DR's respond with a quick chirp and I know they're ready to stick.

as I slowly approach the line I shut down the a/c so the e-fan turns off.
I then shift my transfercase into 4-auto, AWD insures I wont do a peg leg launch.
I always try to pre-stage first because it helps me focus on the tree and I'm not rushed to get staged because the other guy is already waiting impatiently.
Stay calm as possible, focused but not relaxed (if that makes sense)
Then let the other driver pre-stage and go for your 2nd pair of yellows by inching forward before he does.

Now the Timing part really comes into play
It will take a while to get used to the tree countdown and adjust your timing
that's where I had home track advantage over catsltd.
Practice makes perfect and repetition is the only way to know your reaction time and how quick your truck reacts.

I usually smashed the gas from idle (no more than 1000 rpm pre-load)
at the mid point of the second yellow (on a three yellow tree)
each yellow is 1/3 of a second

That system seemed to put my front tire over the line just as the tree turned green
if I hit it right at the start of the 2nd yellow it would red-light,
and if I waited to react on the 3rd yellow the green would already have been lit for three tenths before my truck moved.

It may seem simple to someone who's watching from the sidelines, but you have to do all this within a minute,
and you have to pay attention to the track officials instructions at the same time.

When you get it right it's very rewarding cuz you can even beat someone at the tree and win the race despite having a slightly slower truck.

Lot's of races I should have lost were won with a driver mod, but so very close makes it an adrenaline rush
It is very addictive when you get it right, and the best races are when it comes down to the final inches at the finish line.

Some pretty good track tips in this thread too:

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331929
 
#45 ·
catsltd is right,
Ton O' crap to remember and you need to establish a pattern/rhythm
and if you're new to the track you WILL be too nervous to get it all perfect.




Set your Throttle Booster on your Trinity to MAX!
it's a throttle sensitivity adjuster that means you can use a lot less pedal to hit the max.

Move your Drivers seat forward about 4" closer than you use for normal driving.
It will make your leg faster and more forceful if it doesn't need travel as far.

Buckle your helmet! ...and make sure you have one (Grant! lol)
I turn my A/C on while in the last part of the stage lanes to get the e-fan going and get my coolant and underhood temps down.

I shut off esp/traction control, engage tow/haul mode,transfercase in 2WD, manually shift to 1st gear as I approach the water box.
Quick burn out (no brake, just punch the gas after driving out of the waterbox) while holding the shifter left so it will go to second gear.
I let go of the throttle right after it hits 2nd and my DR's respond with a quick chirp and I know they're ready to stick.

as I slowly approach the line I shut down the a/c so the e-fan turns off.
I then shift my transfercase into 4-auto, AWD insures I wont do a peg leg launch.
I always try to pre-stage first because it helps me focus on the tree and I'm not rushed to get staged because the other guy is already waiting impatiently.
Stay calm as possible, focused but not relaxed (if that makes sense)
Then let the other driver pre-stage and go for your 2nd pair of yellows by inching forward before he does.

Now the Timing part really comes into play
It will take a while to get used to the tree countdown and adjust your timing
that's where I had home track advantage over catsltd.
Practice makes perfect and repetition is the only way to know your reaction time and how quick your truck reacts.

I usually smashed the gas from idle (no more than 1000 rpm pre-load)
at the mid point of the second yellow (on a three yellow tree)
each yellow is 1/3 of a second

That system seemed to put my front tire over the line just as the tree turned green
if I hit it right at the start of the 2nd yellow it would red-light,
and if I waited to react on the 3rd yellow the green would already have been lit for three tenths before my truck moved.

It may seem simple to someone who's watching from the sidelines, but you have to do all this within a minute,
and you have to pay attention to the track officials instructions at the same time.

When you get it right it's very rewarding cuz you can even beat someone at the tree and win the race despite having a slightly slower truck.

Lot's of races I should have lost were won with a driver mod, but so very close makes it an adrenaline rush
It is very addictive when you get it right, and the best races are when it comes down to the final inches at the finish line.
Your transfer shows a 4-auto option? Mine says 2WD 4Lock 4Low and a Neutral button.
 
#47 ·
damn... and I thought the only difference in models were cosmetics.
 
#48 ·
I appreciate all the advice BRH and I'm sure it will all come in handy when I get to the track.....It turns out the 1/8 and 1/4 mile tracks in my area are closed today. Which sucks balls because I just picked these up from Matt (Moe's Performance) this morning and just got back from getting the mounted.

They are 17" Pro comp wheels w/ M&H 275/50 DRs (28") and only weigh 53 lbs a piece....which is shaving about 25lbs when compared to my 22" wheels. I might just go ahead and order the fronts now too since it's such big drop in rotational weigh.


 
#49 ·
Sweet!

Ya I started with just rear DR's and went back the following week for another pair...
they were dirt cheap too, half the cost of my street tires. (that weigh in at nearly 100lbs ea on my 20's)

All 4 corners will drop your overall weight and your ride height for better aerodynamics
plus you can rotate them now and they'll last forever.


Don't forget to change your tire size setting with the quick adjust on your Trinity when you swap back and forth ;) takes 30 seconds.
 
#50 ·
Each stock 20' tire is 100lbs each? Damn! I need to look into some lighter rims.
 
#60 ·
I don't think they make a 18" wheel in that style.....but American Eagle does and they are pretty much they exact same wheel. I wanna say American eagle is like a pound lighter and that was my first initial choice but didn't have any in stock. I really wanted to do a 305 45 18 DR but I couldn't find a wheel light/wide enough at least in a 18x9.5 or 18x10 in the dreaded 5x5.5 bolt pattern dodge has. Even though a lot of people have done it with a 18x9 from what I've heard but I just don't feel all that comfortable putting a 305 on a 9" wheel.

Here's the part number for the American Eagle wheel - 1869-9966 and I"m sure there are more options out there since you share the same bolt patterns as F150s
http://www.aewheel.com/wheels_detail_specs.cfm?id=1990&cat=472
 
#61 ·
GM trucks with 6 lug bolt patterns have the same bolt pattern as well. The 18x9" wheel is listed at 25 lbs, that is nearly 15 lbs each lighter than my 20x9.5" Nismo wheels. I cannot remember the exact number, but removing even 1 lbs of rolling weight is like removing 4 or 5 lbs elsewhere. If you remove 100 lbs out of your rolling stock, its like removing 400-500 lbs elswhere in the truck performance wise.
 
#62 ·
Yeah it I've been through all this when I was switching out my 22s a couple of times. Trust me I've done a bunch of research trying to find a decently cheap light weight alloy wheel to put some Dr's on them....Rotational weight vs static weight (dead weight) is about a 1:4 ratio.
 
#64 ·
Update.....
I got the DRs on, calibrated the speedometer, and it was only showing .7mph off at 75mph just like my 22" set up per gps. So I tried to find a spot to do some test runs but as usually its a Saturday and cops and people are out like crazy. So I settled and made a couple of pulls around my neighborhood (not the best roads and only got up to 82 mph). After comparing my logs to 82mph it took 9.283 on the 22s and 8.951 on the Drag radials.

The problem I see with the log's now is that my shifts have moved downward because of the approx 3" difference in OD. Now I'm hitting 4th around 77-78mph where I was hitting it at 86mph..... Does anyone know how much this Is that gonna hurt me overall in the 1/4?

Anyway Here's a couple of screen shots of a start and finish log with my 22s up to 82mph



Here's a start and finish log with my DRs up to 82mph



As you can see I got out the hole much harder with the DRs but I did have issues hooking up but I'm sure with a burnout to get them warmed up I shouldn't have that problem but because of this when looking at my 0-60 time I was only .08 of a tenth faster. Overall to 82mph I gained .332 of a sec which should be much better when I get these DRs to hook.....I'll post a picture of the Drs on the truck in a little
 
#65 ·
I forgot to put the pictures up with her with the drag radials mounted, here they are. BTW I've got the other two Pro Comp wheels coming in this week (Thanks to Matt at Moe Performance), I just couldn't help myself by letting my truck looked half ass'd.




 
#66 ·
I forgot to put the pictures up with her with the drag radials mounted, here they are. BTW I've got the other two Pro Comp wheels coming in this week (Thanks to Matt at Moe Performance), I just couldn't help myself by letting my truck looked half ass'd.
Looking good!! I bet that truck is really enjoying the wheels/tires and the cooler weather. Its 39*F here in DFW and the T is loving it. Weather alone has knocked .23 off my prevous best 0-60. Dropped from a 5.75 to a 5.52 It is almost -1200 da outside right now, only wish the 1/4 mile track would open before Feburary.
 
#67 ·
Yeah we have three more weekends left here and only closed for 2-3 weeks...hopefully I can get out there this Friday and see what I'm running. If not this Friday I will be out there with all the guys on the 7th.
 
#68 ·
That is the real shame we have here, people wanting to get on the 1/4 for new PB and no tracks to run on. Its -1200 da right now and I ran 3 of my best ever 0-60 times and that was full street trim, fully air'd up tires, and obviously no VHT or burnout. I'd have my 13.6-13.7 if they would only open the gates and man the track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYDeLEA7apE&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
#69 ·
Update.....
Looks like royal purple got rained out (1/4 mile) which sucks but Houston motorsports is open (1/8 mile). I guess I'm gonna have to settle for a 1/8 slip tonight since I already got the DRs on the truck....let's see if she has an 8 sec run in her, I'll post slips later.
 
#70 ·
Let's see it
 
#72 ·
In the staging lanes now
 
#74 ·
I should have my first pass in hopefully 15 mins....its packed with royal purple being rained out
 
#77 ·
I would bro but I got the kids this weekend...you going to royal purple next Friday with all the other rams? Have you done anything to your stang yet?
 
#90 ·
Fridays arent good for me, I havent had a friday off in about 4-5 years. lol The 5.0 is still stock. I actually threw it on the dyno today to get a set of baseline numbers on it. Before I put everything on, I just ordered :D
 
#76 ·
Well the track wasn't prepped and they had water all over the place (couldn't go around). I should have hooked better but the strip was a little shitty and my launch technique is still work in progress. Nonetheless I almost broke into the 8s (DAMN) with 3 attempts.....I'm sure if I would have shed some weight I would have but I'm not making excuses. I did beat an 2012 Ram RT (CAI and exhaust) and a 2010 6.2 Chevy CC (cam/longtube headers) but I did lose to a little rice burner with a nitrous set up LOL, he got me by a truck length but I think I could have got him if I wasn't still trying to figure out the tree (sleeping LOL).

Here's some pics of my truck with my track set-up





The damn cheap bastards at Houston Motorsport Park was ripping/spliting the slips and half but anyway here they are line up in order from the first to third run. I meant to put 9.39 for the RT because he got the hit due to me sleeping at the tree.




The guy with the Chevy 6.2L was pretty impressed with my truck because I actually beat him even though I was out gunned mod vs mod. While we were talking about mods I took a picture of the slips combined.....


I'm gonna look at my datalogs and see if there are any noticeable issues because I should be launching better than this with DRs....I wanna say when I was looking at my logs from the trinity I was only doing a 0-60 in 5.5 secs when I did the same 0-60 in 5.4 secs the other day on the street. Everything is was set the same- 28" tires but the only difference I didn't have the front 17s on, just on the rear with my 22" on the front......Anyway I'll post what I find.
 
#91 ·
#78 ·
Yeah I just took a quick look at the logs and I bounced off the rev limiter way before what it was set at on all the runs going from 1st to 2nd.....I also pulled timing on the first run when I tried stalling it up a bit.
 
#79 ·
You are cutting pretty good 60' right now, I still havent cut a sub 2.00 60' yet and my best 1/8 is 8.79. Once you figure out how to do your whole launch with tree properly you will be in good shape. I took me about 6 runs with my Charger to figure out how to get the burnout and launch down so I could get it into the 13's the last time I brought it out. You should be in the 13's for sure when you get it to the 1/4, 9.0 should get you about a 13.9x.
 
#81 ·
I do not understand that one either man. There has got to be something in that 07 PCM/TCM combination that is hold you back. On my 305/50 Yokohomas, with the sidewinder, pacesetters, dual 3" exhaust and 4.7 converter I ran a 2.02s 60' in my old 06 and ran a 9.08 in the process. Same setup on drag radials went 8.83 on a 1.95s 60'. Just seems like something is cutting torgue on you.
 
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