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Where to go from here?

6K views 51 replies 11 participants last post by  spun360 
#1 ·
I am looking for that next performance modification to my truck to get that horsepower and performance up. Here's what I have and a little on the truck:

In terms of engine I have:

Mopar Performance PCM
Harlem Sharp 1.7 RR's
52mm Throttle Body
Magnaflow Highflow cat
K&N Cold air intake
Power Wire
180 T-stat
4.56 Gears

I have a lift and 35's so Im looking for some more low end power rather than top end. Im looking to get off the light pretty quick and have been looking at tuners, heads, intake manifolds, and headers. I know the headers will give me more top.

What should I get next? And where can I find it? I have been looking around and cant find much, maybe Im not looking hard enough.

Im not looking for a huge costly upgrade though, but no DIY, this is still my DD until I get a daily commuter. Help me with options!

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Don't count out headers and top end power. If you're looking to get off the line quick, you'll leave at a higher rpm anyways.

Always remember the key to power is airflow in and out of the motor. So I always vote for more displacement and forced induction if you have the cash. If not, head work and/or cams, and injectors/fuel pump to match. Then get a good tune to make everything work well together.

There are no "cheap" power adders that actually work well enough to jusitfy the cost. Airflow and fuel to match are the only reliable ways to make power. (well, bumping compression as well).
 
#3 · (Edited)
And as far as finding stuff, you can't go wrong with summit and jegs.

EDIT: I also didn't see what trans you have. If auto, you'll need at least a good single disc converter (maybe a little higher than stock stall), with some valvebody work. If manual, then call up valair and get yourself a good clutch.
 
#4 ·
Ya Im not trying to do this on the cheap, I just meant Im not looking for an entire engine rebuild. I have the 4speed auto. If I were to upgrade the heads, would I have to upgrade anything else for them to run properly?
 
#5 ·
Depends on your air/fuel ratio. If head work/new heads alone get you enough airflow to run lean, then you'll need bigger injectors, and possibly fuel pump to keep up.

I'm not the best one to talk to about this, I haven't messed with a dodge gasser in a few years (though I'm looking to start one after I finish my current truck).

I guess a good question for you next is how much power are you really looking for? 300? 400?
 
#6 ·
iron EQ heads are good for a budget build, 62cc bump up the compression 1/2 notch. $800. fyi the 360s have just less than 9/1 ratio.
if you want to throw some good moneys around, maybe edlebroch 58cc alu heads! $1400. should bump you up the 9.5/1 ratio.
the mopar ecm is not real good. think about the sct from hemifever!
shorty headers are great on these trucks.
the stock injectors will handle these upgrades but, there are better injectors out there!
i also am suprised that you havent changed out the kegger style intake manifold by now. real restrictive!
 
#7 ·
I was actually planning on fixing the kegger myself about 4 years back. I just never got around to it, and 4 years later Im looking to really make this truck a real beauty both underneath and outside.

What kind of aftermarket manifolds are good out there to replace this keg? Is a cam worth it or not worth messing with?

Also I have eben researching headers and theres a lot of talk about exhaust scavenging and the right piping length and diameter...I dont know much about that though.
 
#11 ·
i woulnt cam an old engine! you need 170psi in all cylinders for a cam to run good
 
#9 ·
Im not looking for a quarter mile dragster of course, but Im not looking for a pulling monster either. I just dont feel like the truck is as lively as I would like. I dont know what else you mean by goals. I just want the truck to perform even with the larger tires and lift. Just like the diesel guys who throw larger turbos and what not to smoke the tires and have a diesel truck that jumps off the line like a car.
 
#10 ·
Diesels suck! LOL

If you just want response, then intake manifold, shorty's, a cam if you have he money, and a good tune are about all you can do before you make big jumps. Some will argue that plugs/wires/coil/etc... will make a difference, but I've never noticed a difference without a lot of other stuff done.

To be honest, these motors were never power houses. You either do just the basic stuff, or go all out.

I think you should go for this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO0MTj95vN4
 
#12 ·
for these engines two types of intakes are common. the m1 or the air gap from hughes engines. the air gap is more pricey and purposely flow benches less for torque responses. i dont believe in restriction for power purposes. my first choice on a new manifold would be the M1
 
#14 ·
gee! whats a high stall torque converter for?
 
#16 ·
Alright, I have about a grand to spend. I have narrowed down to either headers, intake manifold, or work on the heads. Hmm, choices choices... But most likely going to eliminate heads since it would be custom work and not part specifically made for the engine.
 
#24 ·
dont reman the original heads! just for future references, chrystler heads dont do well stock and they fall apart modified! i would be surprised if your stockers dont leak around the valve seats now.
 
#17 ·
you should be able to knock out headers and intake and stay within budget. start maping your fuel curves. or buy the tools to do so. at this point the motor may not give you all its got with the mopar pcm. you are stretching its parameters
 
#18 ·
headers are ok. i dont see that much in gains with them tho.
i would say an intake would give you a noticeable amount. plus matching those with headers would give some good flow.
where do you live?
what are your options for exhaust?
removing the cat and throwing some high flowing mufflers would help out alot.
 
#20 ·
i bought stainless chinese headers for $120. worked great! noticed alittle. magnaflow cat and noticed alittle. took the tail pipes off to dump infront the axle= noticed alittle! this all adds up and starts to compliment eachother. dont believe a manufacturers claim when they comment 20hp gains and what not! edelbrock headers breath real good but i dont produes enough hp to really use them. doug thorleys try Y headers are nice too and pricey also in the $400s. heres my $120 stainless headers
 

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#21 ·
If I did it all over again.

It is interesting to see what you have done for add ons to your engine. Your list looks very similiar to the route I went..except I put on the big valve R/T heads with 60cc chambers.
When you truly add up all the dollars you will or have spent one thing will be very noticable. You will be dissappointed with your performance. . Just lift your engine out and add a 408 short block to your other goodies. It will be cost effective and you will love the results. Just don't blow thousands trying to get the 5.9 to be a power and torque monster.
 
#22 ·
It'll cost money, but cadotto got his into the 12's at street weight, and sprayed into the 10's. N/A 408

As far as exhaust, the horsepower claims are always misleading. All the exhaust does is allow the motor to exhale more efficiently. If the motor isn't inhaling more efficiently as well, then you won't notice a difference with the exhaust.
 
#23 ·
exactly. one needs to compliment the other.
cant do a cold air intake and a new manifold without doing a high flow cat muffler and some headers.
 
#25 ·
I had a leak in a seal a little while back causing it to burn oil but I fixed that quick. I have the Magnaflow cat after the stock headers but thats it for exhaust. I had a Magnaflow muffler as well a while back but took it off for some better top end on the highway.

I am deciding between doing headers and the manifold, or one of those and a new set of rims!:D If I do go with the manifold, what am I looking for? I see a bunch of different options to choose and dont know which one would be best for my set up and situation. Also would it be a mainly straight forward install? Remove the intake, throttle body, alternator and stock manifold?
 
#26 ·
valve guides & seals are fixable which i am guessing was your issue. valve seats are the problem. actually theres a cast iron issue with chrystler heads.
pretty easy installs, all of what we are talking about hear. most guys would agree an intake manifold shouldnt take more than a whole day to do. i've taken mine off so many times and got good at it, yet for a ram its a regular thing. SO many of us hear have learned. U got lots of support!
um. i never bought rims to make the truck faster. just pretty. and thats not my thing. i havent been cute since i was a baby and even back then, i dont think i was that cute. so my ram will never be cute either! just functional :rck:
 
#27 ·
im looking to get a new intake this summer.
so i say you get one of them and tell me how it works lol
 
#28 ·
Well my rims are old and faded and I want some new ones, and since my truck is lifted I dont think speed is my biggest concern haha. So I am going to do one performance modification and then rims.

Does anyone have any information about what types of intake manifolds to look at? Which type or model and what brand? I see many different manifolds and designs and dont know which ones are better for what, etc.

Thanks!
 
#34 ·
After reading this post from you, if speed isn't your concern go with the FI Air Gap from hughes, you will get torque which will get those 35s going!

you have a truck, and its not a diesel like everyone one else has said, you either go big or just add complements to your engine. if you just want to see a nice upgrade and have cool rims, Hughes Air Gap!

thats just my 2cents
 
#29 ·
So long tube headers or an intake manifold?? What are the pros and cons of each and if I get an intake manifold, will that mean I wont need to get the Hughes Plenum gasket kit?
 
#30 ·
pumped up trans and good tc would be my choice. alot of power lost in our trans.
 
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