OK so we got the fuel sync set at 0 it does bounce to -2 back to 0 now and again...idk how much closer we can get it to stay at 0 then that. Second when the truck is idling the timing the scan tool read was 14* from what i've read around with these cams that sounds about right.
now these test were under no load sitting in park this is what im getting.
My buddy jay was bringing the the rpms up by 100rpms at a time with the scan tool to test it, once the truck hits 1400 RPMs the timing jumps up to 30* and it starts back firing. So we backed the rpms back down to idle at 750, now using the gas peddle we bring it up past 1400rpms it back fires a little once you hit 2400 rpms the computer brings the timing back down miss fires go away and as you continue to rev the engine up in rpms hitting 3,000RPMs the computer has the correct timing and you can just bury the tack to 6 grand no back fires nothing the truck just sounds great. Its just that first couple hundred rpms the computer is tricked for some reason thinking that the truck is running wide open.
The TPS sensor isn't tossing a code so I dont think its bad to make the computer think its going balls to the wall.
Im going to email Sean and see what he thinks.
I feel like we have taken a step in the right direction though in getting this thing dialed in though.
Any thoughts or help let me know guys.
the truck sounds so good at idle and once you get passed the 2400 mark omg look out the 3 inch pipes thing sounds mean!!!! shes just a little confused still.
Was also thinking about taking the tune out and seeing what happens.
again about the dizzy gear. if one tooth either way doesnt line up with the first intake bolt. try 180 out. then try one tooth at a time. that flat head slot must point correctly.
Today when I get there first we will do the .25 turn see if I'm still low on compression, if I am then ill start the truck up warm it up see if the compression comes back then ill focus on turning that gear more. I'm confused as in how a round gear thats the same on every tooth would matter 180* but ill try it
It don't matter if you flip it 180, the gears the same either way. If it was different the timing for the other cylinders would be off. But you are a tooth off right now which is 16 degrees of timing.
He is in the process of moving it clock wise 1 tooth right now, sean is saying that its not the tune and with 24lbs injectors that out should be rich not lean that I got other problems
Thats what I said, he have me a list of things, intake leak, front o2 is bad list goes on idk, have a new picture of the gear position send me emails I'm at work can't use computer but can email through phone
Said he did reset the computer, I made my own brackets cause the ones hughes gave me were pulling two hard on the fuel rails and wouldn't line up right he said my TB dose found like it has a leak though
yeah idk, tomorrow I will put in a new front o2 and a new crank sensor. An ill also have Sean send a tune with more fuel across the bord not allot just a small amount more to see if it gets better.
what I dont understand is someone told me running lean will cause backfiring out the intake....how does that work? Lean or not why would the valve not be closed and backfire out the exhaust?
just thinking in type here.. i suppose the combination of the dizzy being 16* advanced and the throttle body leak could cause a lean condition.
cause of the leak, smity, was the IDLE high. should have been!
Hey Smity! Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to monitor pressure? I'm still surprized it don't throw a code. Try unpluging your IAC and see it that helps.
Hey Smity! Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to monitor pressure? I'm still surprized it don't throw a code. Try unpluging your IAC and see it that helps.
Oh did I mention that there was no test port for my fuel rail so we had to cut the hose that connects the two rails and put a T in it and clamp it down, wonder if its restricting fuel ill buy a new house tomorrow and take the sensor out see if it helps
think dorman has those lines. you got to heat them up, put it on quickly, and let it cool down before you charge the system. a heat gun on low is helpful, dont burn it.
Braded hose with hose clamps work just good lol not getting fancy. New TB Gasket going on in a few, Cank Sensor, and front o2 if it aint fixed after this guys....theres nothing more I can do. An Sean sent me a tune with a little more fuel across the bord both WOT Part Throttle and while Idling will see if that helps after all these other test.
The only other thing I can think of is cam sensor under the dizzy cap. But when mine went bad on my 96 it threw a code. Maybe some dirt got in an injector. Do you have a scanner that can monitor long term and short term fuel trims?
Truck runs like a raped ape now that its got fuel, crank sensor didn't change anything, changed o2 put the fuel tune in truck hit 100mph, getting a few pops here and there but under 2000 I can stomp it without it backfiring, still backfires a little, hes going to fine tune the rockers by turning then while there moving.....so happy hahaha, deffly need rotor conversion for the back hard time stopping
Do you have a 2.02 intake valve...It makes sense to me, I have bigger intake valves, and intake that sucks allot of air....he said he was cutting like 25% fuel...it idles great wideband reads between 14.7-15.8 it bounces....just driving down the road 14.7 all day.....before it was like 17.5. When you stomp on it it will hit 13ish on the wide ban and the lowest i've seen it go at WOT was 12.5 so probably could use a little less but for now im not messing with it. Want to drive it let it learn itself for a while.
Bad news though is got a leak in the rear main have to fix that. Worse news was my buddy is just a idiot. Smart kid but I will never let him work on my (engine) again. Rear ends lift kits welding ill go to him but just saw allot of hack job stuff done. To top it off the rotatella T oil he had me use and said they still have zinc in it....DOESN'T! I broke that motor in without zink in the oil, im surprised that the 6 rings that seated even seated....so I picked up the ZDDP additive today and will add it after I fix the rear main leak.
Just because you cams +4 advanced from comp. I know mine poped every onces and a while with it set to +1. It would pop right off idle. For WOT 12.5 Is about where you want to be.
Do you have a good camera yet? Get some videos up.
I do videos will come soon enough, trucks still not home, still having some fine adjustment on the rockers hes giving them some more pre load as its running just enough to where they stomp chattering. Then there its the rear main issue. Then some full blown abuse videos lol.
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