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gas boiling

10K views 46 replies 7 participants last post by  red371 
#1 ·
Having gas boiling issues with my 87 w-150. The engine is a 318 with edelbrac 4 barrel carb and headers. as long as you keep the truck moving its fine but on hot days or leave it idling, the idle raises and the gas filter drains and you can see the filter pulsate and the filter will empty and you can hear the gas boil. I have put the heat resistant tape on the gas line and put a check valve on the line before the pump just to make sure it was going back to tank. the truck wont shut off easily it sputters for a few seconds and turns over a lot to restart. I have also put heat resistant tape on my headers but not all the way to the top around each individual pipe also with the hood closed and left on higher idle the carb it hot! to the touch and problem happens,so i did same test but left hood open and carb was warm to touch but had same problem! Do I need a spacer? and what is sucking my gas in the carb when off and also when this problem occurs while running my fuel filter will start to empty and I see bubbles. I bought the motor a few yrs ago and has done this ever since I put it in, I believe it has a aluminum intake edelbrac 600 carb with electric chock mopar orange box ignition. Thanks Tracey
 
#28 ·
I have check the coolant and it fine, I can take the cap off the radiator when the gas boil happens and can see a good flow in the radiator when i work the throttle. and I have looked at the wires in the dark and sprayed a little water on them to see if i could see any spark jump and their wasn't. I felt the fuel lines and they dont feel hot. I timed it at 8% above top dead center and it spark knocks so I put it at 4% and it still does it, then ran out of light so gave up for now till tomorrow, also it back fires through the carb only when i run it for more that 5 min, took it for a few test runs when i was setting the timing and when i first take off its fine but a mile or so down the road i turn around and take off again it will back fire when i try to take off then its fine till i stop and try to take off again and the spark knock gets worse as well?
 
#29 ·
I have had other posts about the ignition system and figured that out, I had put in the mopar orange box with a friends help and was having no start when it got cold out but it was the ballist resistor was hooked up wrong, wires were on the wrong ends of resister. Might their still be an issue with the ignition system?
 
#30 ·
I was backfiring with a bad distributor. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see whats up. Wish you were in my area. I'd totally help you with this. Just for curiosity's sake. You have the computer and emissions stuff on your truck still?
 
#32 ·
then set your timing between 12-14*. the 4-8* is for the computer and emission system. without it, you should be setting it much higher. having bad timing could be causing a heating issue. i set my 318 to 14-16* and it ran great.
 
#33 ·
have you installed a distributor with vacuum advance? when swapping from computer to older electronic ignition system you need a vacuum advance distributor since the computer controlled that.
 
#35 ·
that was the issue i had when i first got my truck. they swapped the computer controlled carb but they didnt swap the ignition system. so i was back firing out of the exhaust. my truck ran like crap. i switched to an HEI system and my truck was awesome after that.
 
#36 ·
I got the spark knock fixed, I advanced the timing to 11 deg or so and adjusted the two front screws on the carb to let more gas in, they were only 1/2 turn out so I put them to 3/4 of a turn and it seems to work. as for the gas boil I lined the tube coming from the fuel pump with 3/8 rubber gas line and bent it away from the motor, ran it a for a few miles and didn't boil but still loosing a little from the gas filter? Have another problem will start a new post.
 
#39 ·
Do you have any history on the truck? Recent engine rebuilds?
 
#42 ·
I think he meant unplug the vac adv to set the timing.

You are either running lean or your engine has a high compression ratio. The higher the ratio, the more octane you need. There are many things that can cause preignition. Too much timing, hot spark plugs, low octane, lean condition, overheating. Google what causes preignition. You'll find some good knowledge
 
#44 ·
I know right? I've said that in the past, it started an argument sort of. So now I just tell people to unplug it.
 
#45 ·
I think there right about the pre ignition. Im fairly new to the truck world, but I know if you have a high compression ratio like maachine said, you will get it. When I put anything lower than 91 in my bike I get pre ignition even with the electronics and crap on it. and I only did it once cause the performance is sh*t. Anyways thats about all I can say about this.
 
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