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Electronic Throttle Control Location

19K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  Randtheman 
#1 ·
Can someone direct me as to where the ETC is located? I am getting the red lightning bolt on the dash. This is happening when i am at a stop light and everything shuts down except for the dash cluster lights and headlights. RPM's and etc are gone. Have to turn the ignition to off and turn it over again for it to start.

2004
5.7 Hemi
 
#3 ·
Etc is your throttle body....clean and check the connection on TB. Clean and check connection on gas peddle...make sure as said ur battery is good. Pull intake tube off throttle body and check condition of TB.
 
#4 ·
I was having the same issue, was due to a gummed up throttle body. Disconnect the Negitive off the battery and then take the air intake off then the throttle body, and clean it out with some throttle body cleaner and reinstall.
 
#5 ·
Whats the theory behimd removing the neg on battery first? Reset the tb?
 
#6 ·
Resets ecm, if you're having issues or poor performance because of it, it will help it relearn the proper performance and clear any codes caused by it.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk.
 
#7 ·
The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go

... and last. This is from a past DT thread:

You can do what is often called a "hard dump".

We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".

First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.

Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.

Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.

Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)

Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
=============================================

The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.
=============================================

:dtrocks:
 
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