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finally, a block to buy

6K views 90 replies 10 participants last post by  Warlock's Dad 
#1 ·
found an engine on craiglist. a 1990 318 block. i'm assuming its a hyd roller block. since its a fuel injection engine. which is what i want. 125$. planning on reusing the hyd roller lifters from my old engine. new cam, intake, and carb....

what do you guys think?
 
#3 ·
not bad. yeah cams are expensive for em. i looked at some for mine to wake her up, $$$
 
#4 ·
ya the cam........$$$. picked up the engine today. heres a pic of the dirty mess i bought. and thanks for the loaner on the engine lift benny. was a great help again. did you get the pics i sent today?

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#5 ·
hey speed dragon, you have knowledge.......would i beable to regrind this fuel injection cam into something useful for a carbed engine?

i'm thinking this because the LSA for an fuel injected engine is wider @112, for carbed...110, could i make this work? this is under the assumption that the cam in this engine is still stock
 
#6 ·
It should work just fine as is. The 340 4bbl hyd flat tappet cam I have in my 318 has a 114 LSA. Most stout cams have an LSA in the 110-112 range. Rollers usually have faster ramp rates, meaning they can reach full lift sooner.

Looks like valve lift is only .395, I would run the stock hyd roller with 1.6 ratio rocker arms. That will give it about .421 lift, which will put it in the ballpark of the earlier factory 4bbl cams like mine. But you'll still have the benefits of the roller.
 
#7 ·
thank you sir. comp cams suggests an LSA of 110 with my build plan. with a lift of .480........didnt even cross my mind that the lift would be much less. comp cams it is then. i'm going to go with the stock valvetrain for now, since i have 2 sets of them.
 
#9 ·
roger that, thanks again speed
 
#11 ·
nah i have a chicken s phone. put it on here if you can
 
#12 ·
k. i'll do it right now
 
#13 ·
the hole where im pointing....fill it right?

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#14 ·
yeah fill that. that's for the side trim i took off. looks pretty good
 
#15 ·
ya, we are getting rid of all the cars at work right now. we wont be taking any more car "projects". so the shop will be cleared out and we'll have more room to work. still have some fill work to do, fix that rust on the inside bottom edge of the door, and he said he's going to prime it. so we should be done with it by the end of next week i think.
 
#16 ·
cool. i picked up some new window switches at the boneyard friday and i'm getting the windshield gasket back soon so i might have her back on the road in a couple weeks
 
#17 ·
you excited? i'm hoping to have this engine done and back in my truck by the end of summer. been thinking though........i should rebuild the trans and install a shift kit. more money to spend
 
#18 ·
hell yeah. and i need to clean the inside cause she got kinda moist. you might check the 727 anyway to make sure that's not what broke your crank. shift kits are easy and not all that much. if you need some help let me know.
 
#19 ·
i was looking at the torque converter that came with this engine i just bought. i found the balancing weight on it. looked at the torque converter from my old engine.....no balance weight. i think whoever rebuilt the old engine, before i bought the truck, did a poor job. plus the previous owners drove it around a few years with a dysfunctional ignition system on it, which probably didnt help.
 
#20 ·
and ya, i had a few issues with my trans.....leaking seals and when it was cold, i'd pull out from a stop sign and the trans would start slipping out of gear. i'd have to put it in park and shift into drive to get it to go down the road again.
 
#22 ·
i thought 318's were externally balanced? 360's internally? am i backwards........my old engine didnt have the weight......the new to me engine does. hey speed. talked to my boss about the cam thing. he agreed with longer push rods and the 1:6 ratio rockers
 
#25 ·
You are backwards, 360's are externally balanced, that why they have a different balancer and use a weighted converter. If you have a 318 and your converter has a weight on it, knock the weight off.

Don't think you need longer pushrods to run the 1.6 rockers. Might though.
 
#24 ·
high torque. i want to do a stroker but its not in the cards at the moment. ya it'll be cool. i'll snap some pics along the way, i already have the block torn down. monday i'll pressure wash it then run it through the parts washer at work. then i need to start buying parts.....
 
#26 ·
i should have said longer push rods OR 1.6 rockers.

weird cause the engine i just got has a weight on it. i plan on using the old (no weight) torque converter anyway.
 
#27 ·
Pushrods for 1.6 rockers with a roller cam need to be about 1/4" shorter than a flat lifter cam.
I had 1.6 Crane rockers with a flat cam. I used ball and socket pushrods for a 340, 7.24" long I believe.
When I built my current engine, ('91 360) with roller cam I had to use shorter pushrods, just under 7". I wish I could provide you with the PN. I had to search Crane's catalog to find them.
 
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