[QUOTE=Delray Dude;4183985]The smoking most likely is worn valve seals - common minor issue. Oil will run down the valve stems after engine is shut off and enter the cylinder. They burn off on 1st refiring of engine. not a big issue..just a slight annoyance.
The hesitation could also be carb / choke related as the motor warms up. When i transplanted my 87 intake/carb setup onto my 1970 318 it ran fine in the 1987 truck because the choke well had a 12 volt positive wire that ran to it and heated the spring up slowly to help undo the choke. WHen I swapped the whole engine into my '76, there was no 12 volt wire to the choke well, and the engine would fire and run, but would load up and be a bitch to start/run after a mile or so - reason being is that the choke was still closed and was getting too much gas and no air. I also must note tht I blocked off the exhaust ports from the head to the intake so no heat gets into the manifold. My solution to the choke issue was simple. I wired the choke fully open, being that I live in South Florida, cold weather is rare and I can pedal the throttle the minute or two it takes to warm the engine....
Gear is not set correctly.
[QUOTE=jsswope;4183545] I will put a straw in the #1 cyl and put tape over the top of straw to see if it shoots out being comp stroke.
I usually put a thumb over the spark plug hole and as you turn the crank you can usually feel some pressure build.
You can leave the rotor pointing as is...engine doesn't know the difference...just as long as you know...all is good. however, if you want to align the rotor to where it's supposed to be, there is a trick you can do to get the gear correct. remove the distributor, take a big flathead screwdriver and engage the shaft drive gear like the distributor would. very carefully turn the screwdriver counter clockwise without putting too much down pressure on the screwdriver. the gear and shaft will climb up the cam gear and once it reaches the top of the cam gear it will spin a little to the next gear tooth. Do this a few times and carefully turn the screwdriver clockwise to fully engage the gear back into it's correct postion - it'll screw down into it's normal postion, eventually you will get it to the "correct" position.
key things to remember is to not force it too much - sometimes the shaft will not want to come up at first - a little working it back and forth will get it to come up - if it doens't come up with a little play - leave it where it is and just index the plugs as is.
1. No one can tell me the settings for the idle/mix screws on 2bbl Carter BBD, I'd like to start with them both turned all the way in!! Then start by turning them out such and such turns. Need to know what such and such is.
2. Still smokes loads up, with idle mix screws out about 2 1/2/ turns from all the way turned in, choke will open after motor warms up but the choke heater rod and linkage never moves, so how is it opening?
3. No one can tell me what initial timing is? Is it the dampener full mark pointing to scale on timing cover + or - ???? I set this to 10BTDC or before the ZERO mark, before starting motor. Which is the Dampener full mark painted white pointing to 10BTDC on the TIMING chain COVER!
4. This may tell what I am doing wrong, Timing light shows 14-15 BTDC
Cannot even see my full dampener mark, which I have painted solid white, when motor is idling or revved and shining timing light on it. Using your basic timing light.
5. Something is wrong in timing alignment and NO I could not get timing cam gear to turn up out with a big screwdriver, Love to know an easy way to turn it up and counterclockwise a few teeth, this may be my prob? YES I have DIST. vacuum hose plugged. YES I made sure exhaust valve was open when aligning everything.
6. Still loading up and sucking gas fast!! either timing or carb mix screws or both!!
Any comments suggestions opinions welcomed, and YES I have the timing gears @ 12 O'clock and 6 O'Clock positions respectively. Tore down twice to check that's how I know. read old posts to this thread in case I missed something. FYI-cam was turned clockwise a bit 8 months ago to open exhaust valve or make sure pushrod was loose on exhaust rocker. Turned it clockwise about 1/4" with timing cam gear bolt when bolt was in cam, so not sure if this is prob(cam alignment off?)
7. Before I thought that when my #1 cylinder did a spurt with my thumb on it, I thought my rotor button was pointing to the firewall, but after rechecking, I got the spurt again and it was pointing out front this time. The weird thing this time, is that I turned the crank CC by moving the fan and belts to get my white mark to 10 degrees BTDC, but as I did this I watched my rotor button with Dist. cap off and the rotor button never moved?? Weird, can't remember if it did or not before. So I had to turn the Dist. by hand to line rotor button up to #1 plugwire tower etc.