On my 76', i replaced the alternator with a rebuilt 65 amp, voltage regulator is new, and battery is new. when the truck is running and electric fan is on when i check voltage at the battery its at 12.6 or so. when the fans off its at 13.2 or so. fan only pulls 13 amps. But im thinking about doing the ammeter bypass. Buying the kit from madelectric. Can one of you break it down to baby steps for me? lol sounds dumb but ive read their site multiple times and got lost at some points. thanks everyone.
I know how you feel, I want to do the same thing to my 76 W100. I got lucky, my amp gauge crashed about a month ago. Started smoking and took out some of my other gauges and my radio. I got a replacement gauge, but now I need to do the bypass.
Oh dang man. It's just the wiring isn't up the task of having all the power going through it. I get how to do the wiring but when mad electrical says to put a large size wire from the alt to the starter relay what happens to the voltage regulator? Do you unhook the old wiring and take it out so the new wire is the only one sending power to the battery or what?
just add a wire from the output on the alternator to the battery with a fusible link inline and you should be good. leave the old wiring there. the way the old wiring is is good because power does not have to travel as far to get to everything but all the power goes through the amp gauge on its way to charge the battery which is bad.
Ah now I see. What's better to do for the terminals on the ammeter, to solder them together and crimp them or bolt them together or put one wire on the other terminal?
i would not worry about bypaasing the amp gauge inside the truck. running a wire from the alternator output to the battery should do the same and is a lot easier to do.
well if you would like to keep the gauge then you want to upgrade the wire that run between the alternator output and the amp gauge and then upgrade the other wire that runs between the amp gauge and the battery. the bulkhead connector is one of the weak spots on older vehicles. http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
So there's the wire on the amp gauge where does that go to? The wire from the alternator, where does that go to? And do they plug into the bulkhead or what?
The alternator wiring snakes from the alt., through the voltage regulator then through either the battery or the amp gauge, I dunno which. Crazzy should be able to elaborate on that. All I know is that stock, it has WAY too much current driving through it. lol
And AWESOME looking truck 76! Mine won't look near as good as yours! Keep up the good work.
well if you read the article i linked to you would see that the wires that run though the bulk head connector have a tendency to corrode and overheat over time which is what causes issues. the amp gauges them self do not usually fail.
Yeah I've read that link like 4 times. I'll take a look at the wiring diagram. Thanks everyone. Should I just run a wire through the bulkhead instead of putting connectors on it right?
i have no issue just bypassing the amp gauge but i guess if i would going to keep the amp gauge i would bypass the bulkhead connector and just run wires through a grommet just like the heavy duty vehicle would have had from the factory.
ya. the grommet that the speedo cable goes through is the one i am thinking of. it pretty much puts you in the right area to hook it up to the amp gauge.
I would run the wires through a separate grommet(s). Remember the power running through that wire charges the battery. Don't mess around and do a half a$$ job. I'm sure you wouldn't want your ride to catch fire due to a wire grounding out on something. As you have read the amp gauge/wiring are problematic that's why you don't use them any more. I have a 100 amp alternator in mine and completely when through all the "weak points" of the wiring system. I'm surprised the factory didn't use a shunt style gauge system. It would have caused a lot less headaches.
they did eventually start using a shunt type amp gauge and those are pretty useless. if anything they should have started to use a voltage gauge a lot sooner.
I'm having some issues with adding the wire from the Alt output to the starter relay stud. I used 8 gauge wire and added 2 inline fuses wired into the wire, soldered all connections and used heat shrink. Well I hooked it all up and it was over charging big time. 15+ volts. Then I unhooked both ends and it was still over charging. New voltage regulator. Oh and all the factory wiring was still hooked up when I tested the new wire. I need some help with this.
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