Trouble codes for neons 95-99 [Archive] - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums

: Trouble codes for neons 95-99


dodgeneonACR98
10-07-2003, 09:48 AM
TROUBLE CODES FOR NEONS 95-99

CODE 11 No distributor referene signal detected during engine cranking....Check circuit between the distributer and the pcm.

CODE 12 Problem with battery connection.Direct battery input to pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.

CODE 13** Indicates a problem with map sensor vacuum system.

CODE 14** map sensor voltage to high or to low.

CODE 15** Problem with vehicle speed sensor signal.No vss signal detected during road load conditions.

CODE 17 Engine is cold to long.Engine coolant temp stays below normal operating temp(check thermostat).

CODE 21** Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit.Sensor voltage to computer not fluctuating.

CODE 22** Coolant sensor voltage to high or to low.Test coolant temp sensor.

CODE 23** Indicates that the air temp sensor input is below the minimum acceptable voltage or sensor input is above the acceptable voltage.

CODE 24** Throttle position sensor voltage to high or low.Test the tps.

CODE 25** Idle air control (IAC) valve circuits.A shorted condition is detected in one or more of the IAC valve circuits.Or a vacuum leak has been detected.

CODE 27 One of the injector control circuit output drivers does not respond properly to the control signal.Check the circuits.

CODE 31** Problem with canister purge solenoid circuit.

CODE 32** An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit.Possible air/fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.

CODE 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit.An open or shorted condition in the compressor clutch relay circuit.

CODE 34 Open or shorted condition in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.

CODE 35 Open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan low speed relay circuit.

CODE 37** Open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.

CODE 41** Problem with charging system.An open or shorted condition detected in the generator Field control circuit.

CODE 42 Fuel pump relay or auto shutdown relay (ASD) control circuit indicates an open or shorted condition.

CODE 43** Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.

CODE 44 Battery temperature sensor volts malfunction.Problem with the battery temperature voltage circuit in the pcm.

CODE 46** Charging system volts to high>Computer indicates that the battery voltage is not properly regulated.

CODE 47** Charging system voltage to low.Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation and no significant change in voltage detected during active test or alternator output.

CODE 51** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition during operation.

CODE 52** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio during engine operation.

CODE 53** internal pcm failure detected.

CODE 54** No camshaft position sensor signal from distributer.Problem with the distributer synchronization circuit.

CODE 55 Completion of fault code display on check engine lamp.this is end of message code.

CODE 62 Unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage in the controller EEPROM.

CODE 63** Controller failure.EEPROM write denied.Check the PCM

CODE 65** Power steering switch failure.

CODE 72** Catalytic converter efficiency failure.Catalyst efficiency below required level.

skywalker1972
10-17-2003, 09:43 PM
Originally posted by dodgeneonACR98
TROUBLE CODES FOR NEONS 95-99

CODE 11 No distributor referene signal detected during engine cranking....Check circuit between the distributer and the pcm.

CODE 12 Problem with battery connection.Direct battery input to pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.

CODE 13** Indicates a problem with map sensor vacuum system.

CODE 14** map sensor voltage to high or to low.

CODE 15** Problem with vehicle speed sensor signal.No vss signal detected during road load conditions.

CODE 17 Engine is cold to long.Engine coolant temp stays below normal operating temp(check thermostat).

CODE 21** Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit.Sensor voltage to computer not fluctuating.

CODE 22** Coolant sensor voltage to high or to low.Test coolant temp sensor.

CODE 23** Indicates that the air temp sensor input is below the minimum acceptable voltage or sensor input is above the acceptable voltage.

CODE 24** Throttle position sensor voltage to high or low.Test the tps.

CODE 25** Idle air control (IAC) valve circuits.A shorted condition is detected in one or more of the IAC valve circuits.Or a vacuum leak has been detected.

CODE 27 One of the injector control circuit output drivers does not respond properly to the control signal.Check the circuits.

CODE 31** Problem with canister purge solenoid circuit.

CODE 32** An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit.Possible air/fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.

CODE 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit.An open or shorted condition in the compressor clutch relay circuit.

CODE 34 Open or shorted condition in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.

CODE 35 Open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan low speed relay circuit.

CODE 37** Open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.

CODE 41** Problem with charging system.An open or shorted condition detected in the generator Field control circuit.

CODE 42 Fuel pump relay or auto shutdown relay (ASD) control circuit indicates an open or shorted condition.

CODE 43** Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.

CODE 44 Battery temperature sensor volts malfunction.Problem with the battery temperature voltage circuit in the pcm.

CODE 46** Charging system volts to high>Computer indicates that the battery voltage is not properly regulated.

CODE 47** Charging system voltage to low.Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation and no significant change in voltage detected during active test or alternator output.

CODE 51** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition during operation.

CODE 52** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio during engine operation.

CODE 53** internal pcm failure detected.

CODE 54** No camshaft position sensor signal from distributer.Problem with the distributer synchronization circuit.

CODE 55 Completion of fault code display on check engine lamp.this is end of message code.

CODE 62 Unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage in the controller EEPROM.

CODE 63** Controller failure.EEPROM write denied.Check the PCM

CODE 65** Power steering switch failure.

CODE 72** Catalytic converter efficiency failure.Catalyst efficiency below required level.

So, is code *31 the canister that's bye the passenger side? Is it the canister that has 2 hoses coming out of it?


Thanks :grum:

TripleXJ
10-18-2003, 01:48 AM
I belive so

dodgeneonACR98
10-21-2003, 11:53 AM
It is a small canister with an electrical hook up on top and has 2 hoses or lines off of it.It is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment on the engine mount. It is hard to miss right on top......Hope this helps ya out.....
PEACE>>>>Willy

skywalker1972
10-24-2003, 05:06 AM
Originally posted by dodgeneonACR98
It is a small canister with an electrical hook up on top and has 2 hoses or lines off of it.It is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment on the engine mount. It is hard to miss right on top......Hope this helps ya out.....
PEACE>>>>Willy

Okay, I replaced the selnoid. Took care of code 31. I guess I now need the cannister that the dealership ordered by mistake. Since I've had my EGR Valve replaced in the last 6-8 months. The Cannister is $96.00 but, hopefully it will get rid of my last engine code and improve my Gas Mileage. I was getting close to 40mpg's before the check engine light came on.


Thank You,

Luke

dodgeneonACR98
10-26-2003, 05:19 PM
no problem dude!

DragonDon
03-25-2004, 01:04 PM
40MPG?!?! Damn...I could only dream of that.

Here;s some spect from Last Nov (haven;'t updated my spread sheet for this...yeah, I'm anal enough to keep near perfect track of each tank...)

Date KMs Actual KMs(Miles) Litres(Gal) KM/L(MPG)
2-Nov 390.10 376.45(233.91) 33.49(8.85) 11.24(26.43)
3-Nov 180.90 174.57(108.47) 17.00(4.49) 10.27(24.16)
7-Nov 246.00 237.39(147.51) 28.51(7.53) 8.33(19.59)
10-Nov 270.80 261.32(162.38) 28.51(7.53) 9.17(21.53)
16-Nov 366.40 353.58(219.70) 37.50(9.91) 9.43(22.17)
20-Nov 222.30 214.52(133.30) 26.50(7.00) 8.10(19.04)

Keep in mind:

2000 Neon, ATX, had about 50,000 miles on it at time of above info.

Numbers are a mix of highway/city. Almost 50/50.

Will post best/worst to date later if you wish to see.

Also had Summer tires on it (205/45R16).

Thoughts?

skywalker1972
03-25-2004, 02:06 PM
I was getting 40mpg with an R/T which is a manual as has a higher 5th gear ratio.

DragonDon
03-25-2004, 07:14 PM
Mty Sport Coupe got excellent mileage as well (don't have numbers handy...) but the 91 Octane easily offset that for cost.

Aftercomparing the two, my 5spd Sport Coupe cost the exact same per mile as my current 97 ATX.

Although, you simply could NOT beat the fun with a 5 spd and a 2300lbs car :D

screaminneon
08-23-2004, 11:46 AM
speaking of gas milage i have a question.
why would my gas milage be so much worse that my friends 98
ive got a 97 ive tried different injectors, a cai, both of us have new engines and 5 speeds no ac no ps what could be my problem the only enginge code i have is code 11 which is for my ignition system but i dont know why it would do that
any help would be nice

sundragon
12-15-2004, 10:19 AM
what is a 64? i don't see it on the list here.
here is the situation in a nut shell. 1995 neon sport 5Spd i got it very used with 120K miles on it. i have had the ABS kick in when i was stoping on dry road for no reason so i hvae removed the fuse untill i can get that problem fixed. its been like that for about 2K miles and no other related probles. But saturday night the check engin light came on. so i went here and printed out the code list thinking i can fix it if i know what it for. i got a 12, 64, 55.
i know the 12 is no big deal and the 55 is end of code display but what is 64??? i ran it 3 times and got the same every time. any help from any of you would make my day. Thanks to all

Nick In Michiga
12-20-2004, 10:02 AM
speaking of gas milage i have a question.
why would my gas milage be so much worse that my friends 98
ive got a 97 ive tried different injectors, a cai, both of us have new engines and 5 speeds no ac no ps what could be my problem the only enginge code i have is code 11 which is for my ignition system but i dont know why it would do that
any help would be nice

If your ignition isn't working properly, you won't get proper burn, and so you won't get great gas mileage.

My engine is completely new, I have around 10,000 miles on it, and my mileage varies from 24mpg to 32mpg, all highway. Mobil gas seems to work the best. I also have to run atleast 93 octane, preferably 94, but the only people that sell that around here is sunoco.

Nick In Michiga
12-20-2004, 10:11 AM
Okay, I replaced the selnoid. Took care of code 31. I guess I now need the cannister that the dealership ordered by mistake. Since I've had my EGR Valve replaced in the last 6-8 months. The Cannister is $96.00 but, hopefully it will get rid of my last engine code and improve my Gas Mileage. I was getting close to 40mpg's before the check engine light came on.


Thank You,

Luke

You replaced the Evaparator Purge solenoid. It just lets excess air out of the gas tank, and has nothing to do with mileage. They also rarely go bad, and if they do, you can get a good one from a junkyard for cheap. I have one from a dodge caravan so I have the plastic shell around it so I don't have to hear it click.

EGR will also not effect your gas mileage. I would actually suggest blocking it off, if anything it worsens your mileage. The EGR recirculates the exhaust gasses thru the engine again to be burnt again and be cleaner when it comes out the exhaust. It really does nothing important, most cars now don't even have them. And you do not need one to pass an emissions test. Although, on the 96+ models, the PCM will detect that it is disconnected and you will get a CEL. This can be avoided with a resistor.

Blocking the EGR off will keep the engine alot cleaner, and thus making it last longer. You can get a kit from some dealerships, I know of one that does wholesale pricing, and they sell pretty much any mopar performance part for a neon that is made. You can also get a good kit at www.neongoodies.com . This is the one I have.

You might also want to look into running a can of mopar combustion chamber cleaner, which will do what it says. This makes a very BIG differance in performance.

I would also reccomend running a fuel system cleaner. I've had great results with STP Complete fuel system cleaner. Follow the direction's and you'll be set.

And never run Champion spark plugs.

sundragon
12-20-2004, 10:24 AM
what plugs should be run? i just put in a set of autolights, that is what alot of people said to use in my 01 dak 4.7 so u just thought the same brand for the neon.

dodgeneon_chick
12-21-2004, 08:25 PM
how come this post is always at the top??? i always see it

Nick In Michiga
12-22-2004, 10:40 AM
what plugs should be run? i just put in a set of autolights, that is what alot of people said to use in my 01 dak 4.7 so u just thought the same brand for the neon.

The neons have always worked the best with just $.99 Bosch Coppers.

Champions use to be really good, but for some reason they have been of a lesser quality. They've caused many mis-fires, and some have broken.

And don't EVER use a platinum or iridium plug, unless you want a hole in your piston.

NGK's basic plugs are very good to use too.

Nick In Michiga
12-22-2004, 10:45 AM
how come this post is always at the top??? i always see it

Stickied by an admin or a moderator.

DodgeThis97
04-05-2005, 07:34 PM
Hey everyone. New to the "Neon" portioin of these boards and I'm looking for a little help with a code I'm getting off my girlfriends '98 Neon. Code 43. Just last week I replaced the head gasket because of the notorious problems everyone has seen them cause. I took it out the next day with no problems at all and now I'm getting this code. What can be done to correct the problem?

dodgeneonACR98
04-06-2005, 03:14 AM
CODE 43** Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.


I would hook it up to a computer someplace and find out.Mine ran the same code once. Only once I dont know what would cause that.Does it run reall bad or does it seem like it runs normall? With a reall multiple cylinder missfire a car should not be able to move out of it's own way.I would think. Mine ran like a top.It could have something to do with start up,when the engine first starts to fire. GOOD LUCK!

Judd944
07-12-2005, 09:24 PM
can I check for trouble codes with and OBD II reader or do I need to take it to a shop?

EZ4U2CHere
07-13-2005, 10:19 AM
can I check for trouble codes with and OBD II reader
Yes

Judd944
07-14-2005, 02:59 PM
nice thanks! I will try it out tonight.

n-gin
12-21-2005, 04:14 AM
The egr does recurculate the exhaust gases, But disconnecting it I dont recamend. When the exhaust gases are recirculated it cools the cumbustion chamber LESS HEAT. It also lowers the production of NOX witch is particles of cumbustion (CARBON, build up). Not to mension that the original computer is calibrated for use of egr(regulated fuel usage).
So by disconnecting the egr you raise cumbustion chamber temps., increase carbon build up in your engine and exhaust, not to mension your oil and pcv system,. So disconecting your egr will increase power, but the consequeces of blowing a hole through your piston, exsesive wear on your cylinder walls, increasing compression due to cabonbuild up, NO thankx I'll keep mine connected and sacrafice 2hp at CRUISE cause thats the ONLy time it turns on.

dodgeneonACR98
12-21-2005, 12:56 PM
Well Shit! I don't see how HOT exhaust gasses being recirculated is going to COOL the combustion chamber. And I know it builds up gunk in the head and intake.Hell I thought the egr was a worthless peice of Emissions crap and that was all. I was under the impression that it just separated the worst of the bad for the enviroment gasses and put them back thru to get burnt up.Hell I thought if anything unhooking the eger with a block off kit would Lower the intake temp which inturn keeps the motor cooler and cleaner inside. I could be wrong.

About the PCM using the egr for fuel regualtion The stock PCM does 4 sure, but the Mopar PCM does not. Meaning it isn't going to throw a code if you have the Mopar PCM.However I will say that the Racers that use this egr block off don't reallay care if they have to re-build their motor, its a part of raceing.

If anything we are going to get a good informational post here on why or why not to block off an egr valve. LOL.....I was going to block mine off but I think i'll wait till this discusion is run a while LOL.

EZ4U2CHere
12-21-2005, 05:27 PM
Actually, '95's didn't even have an EGR.

My opinion of them is keep it til it breaks. It's not hurting anything. If it breaks, block it off, it's cheaper.

And actually, your system will have less carbon not more. Take your EGR off and look at how much is there. Do you want that stuff running recirculating back in?

You will find that most racers will block there's off right away.

rice_eater
12-21-2005, 05:28 PM
The EGR DOES NOT COOL THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS!!!!! It is hot exhaust gas. Disconnecting it (just the vacuum line to the sensor) will raise engine temp, because you have a vacuum leak. blocking it off WILL NOT RAISE ENGINE TEMP, WEAR YOUR CYLINDER WALLS OR HARM YOUR PISTONS IN ANY WAY, SHAPE, OR FORM. blocking it off WILL NOT INCREASE CARBON BUILD UP!!!! it will in fact DECREASE carbon buildup. Blocking it off will light the CEL, but it will not affect the way the engine runs. However, blocking it off will not give you any extra Horsepower, it will keep your engine cleaner, thus you will keep the horsepower you make longer. your engine will not "tire out" due to carbon buildup.

The only purpose of the EGR system is to lower exhaust emissions. All it does is pump dirty exhaust gas into the engine to burn it again, making it cleaner the second time through. It's emmission equiptment, all it does is make the car more "environmentally friendly", with the cost of increasing carbon buildup within the engine, particularly the valves, intake, and backside of the TB, also the combustion chambers. Technically, blocking it off is illegal, just like removing the catalytic, it is deleting emissions equiptment.

rice_eater
12-21-2005, 05:34 PM
Just a side note..... does you car have 100,000 miles? 120,000? Why dont you take your throttlebody off and take a good look at the layer of black gunk coating its backside and the inside of your intake manifold. It will probably be close to 1/16" thick, if not more. That is from Mr. EGR...... Enjoy.

n-gin
12-22-2005, 09:02 AM
Well if you take oxygen out of the incoming air fuel mixture in the cylinders it does not burn as hot. Thus cooling the exhaust valve. I did not say that your engine temp will raise, I said it cools the cumbustion chamber. Now if your combustion tempurature raises it produces NOX wich is PARTICALS of combustion. Heat during the combustion process is not a good thing for pistons or valves.
The carbon build up is in every car even with out egrs. The carbon on the intake side is caused by heat and the actual combustion process. Also the EGR does not start opening until you are CRUISING, meaning your not slowing down or increasing speed, and your RPM's are up, naturally,. As soon as you apply more throttle or less the egr stops the recurculation process.
BTW check your tail pipe for black soot. :D That comes from Mr. N-gin. :rck:

dodgeneonACR98
12-22-2005, 12:17 PM
All I got to say is when mine goes bad mine goes by by........MUAH HA HA.

I want all the oxygen I can get into the intake make it burn baby burn.LOL
Alot of goop comes from the breather hose from the valve cover too. Its called MR.OIL.
I made an oil/air seperator to put a stop to that.

rice_eater
12-22-2005, 09:17 PM
N-gin - You also get more oxygen in your engine with a better flowing fiter, or a CAI.... also more heat. Not enough to harm your engine in anyway. your statement is true, but we arent talking that much O2 here.... put a DRY 50 SHOT on your car and that will do some damage....

What are you talking about with the "carbon on the intake side is from the heat of the combustion process"? combustion take place in the combustion chamber, not the intake, unless your car has serious issues..... on neons the carbon build up is due to the engine sucking oil into the intake from the breather line attached to the head, and the carbon rich exhaust gas from the EGR coats the intake w/ carbon. A 2nd Gen neon without the EGR (most cars did not have one from the factory) will have a much cleaner engine at 100k than a 1st Gen neon equipped with an EGR, that is a fact, argue if you want. (BTW, to compare apples to apples, both Generations had identical SOHC engines.)

BTW.... ACR98, TXfirehawk has a pretty sweet setup with a filter in place of the breather tube, thats what i'm going to do. Never suck oil again, never empty a catch can.

dodgeneonACR98
12-23-2005, 02:38 AM
Yeah but that brings me back to being stingy LOL, and people always ask what is that thing. I like it when they don't know LOL....One day I may buy the filter I seen them at the parts store but passed em up. Yeah it's a better look too but im cheap.

n-gin
12-23-2005, 04:12 AM
Yes combustion process meaning all of the above weather it be from the breather, intake valves seaping, fumes from injectors, overspray you name it.
Can some one tell me why would you get rid of a breather tube?
:huh:

rice_eater
12-23-2005, 10:04 PM
Why get rid of a breather tube? because your engine is sucking oil through it into the intake.... sounds like a good reason to me.

dodgeneonACR98
12-24-2005, 01:48 AM
:thatfunny :thatfunny :thatfunny :thatfunny :thatfunny :thatfunny

MMMM HMMMM !

n-gin
12-30-2005, 11:42 AM
tt

JayBo77
03-07-2006, 09:16 PM
Hey guys,
I need some help, I have the check engine light on my 1995 Neon, I did used the ignition method to check my codes and I got a code 37 (Open or Shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.) Is this a major problem to fix? I can't find this in my repair manual. I normally take care of my own repairs, should I prepare to pay the big bucks to the repair shop?

TX_Firehawk
03-08-2006, 12:49 AM
Actually, '95's didn't even have an EGR.



Mine does..



http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/tx_firehawk/egr.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/tx_firehawk/emoticon_09.gif


Does that make mine a 95.5? Thought they all had egr-

dodgeneonACR98
03-08-2006, 02:31 AM
JayBo: I think it is just a sensor on the tranny! I might be wrong but im sure someone will correct me.

rice_eater
03-08-2006, 03:50 PM
I dont know much about Automatic trannies (which is what you obviously have if you are getting code 37), but it has something to do with the sensor that tells the torque converter when to lock and unlock, according to throttle position. It may be something as simple as replacing the sensor, or you could have a shorted wire, or (i've heard of this happening as well) your sensor may have just come unhooked. Best of Luck.

n-gin
03-09-2006, 04:22 AM
There is a wire hook up with a boot on the side of the trans faceing the front of the car. Near the pan. Check for corrosion at the plug, and make sure it has a good connection. You can check to see if the circuit is good by running the car on jack stands to 50 mph, make sure you have wheel chuked :crazy: . Put a test light to the connector plug that goes to the trans and see if you are getting 12 volts. If you are and you are also sure of a good connection, then you have to pull down the pan and follow the wires t the solenoid and replace it. They ar not hard to do,and you can have it done in a half hour if your not fiddlin around. While your in there you should turn the pump psi up by un screwing the adjuster. Yes unscrew, When it is uncrewed it pushes a spring down and compresses the bleed off. Also adjust your 2nd gear band. Yoou will see an adjustment nut on a stud attached to a band and going to a actuator. Call dealer for specs I believe it is 1 1/2 travel is the adjustment. The other adjustment for the clutches is on the outside of the trans and can be adjusted at any time. Good luck happy wrenching. ;)

underdodge
06-14-2006, 10:43 PM
cheap & simple fix. remove the egr tube, cut the tube and save the flanges, put a nickel in the recess (fits perf) and replace the flanges.

gcc804
06-15-2006, 06:33 AM
guys, how can I check the errors without OBD II? what is the ignition method to check errors and how can I do it?
Thanks

dodgeneonACR98
06-15-2006, 11:52 AM
Turn key on,off,on,off,on.......but do not engage the starter.

The engine codes will flash. When it flashes count the flashes.
If it flashes two times and pauses then flashes three times the code is 23....
When it flashes 5 times pauses and flashes 5 more times it means that it is the end of the codes code. Disregard code 55 becouse it means nothing other than the end of codes code. Hope that helps.

After you get your codes you can look in General talk for what the code means in trouble codes. Good luck

gcc804
06-16-2006, 05:14 AM
understand.
it shows codes 37 and 26, then 55 and then flashes 5more times.
any suggestions?

dodgeneonACR98
06-16-2006, 09:23 AM
CODE 37** Open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.
There is no code 26 it goes from code 21 to code 27 skipping 26. Try it again!

Sounds like code 37 has to do with a sensor on the tranny. A sensor that has something to do with the torque converter. The other code you are getting may be a direct effect of the first code 37. I would start with a new solenoid on the tranny then reset the PCM by unhooking the battery, or pulling the fuel pump fuse and relay.
The battery seems easier to me.... Let us know what happens.....

gcc804
06-17-2006, 04:19 AM
I am not sure that it is code 37, I'll tell you how it blinks:
it blinks once and then it makes a slight pause, then it blinks twice and then comes bigger pause and then it blinks 7 times. I think that it means 37....

rice_eater
06-17-2006, 01:48 PM
Codes come in numerical order. That is you will get lower numbers first, higher numbers later, with the exception of code 55, which is the end code. You got code 12 first (1 blink, pause, two blinks) then you got a different code. you will almost ALWAYS get code 12, and unless you get code 11, code 12 will be the first code. Go back and try it again. Hope that helps.

dodgeneonACR98
06-17-2006, 10:28 PM
I think Rice covered that code for ya! Code 12 is nothing really. Just reset the PCM and go from there! But while the battery is unhooked clean off the terminals and check your wires for corosion. You may need to skin em back a bit and put on some new ends! That should do the trick!!!! Hope this helps

gcc804
06-20-2006, 12:14 PM
so, I've counted and it showed me codes: 12, 72 and 65
#12--Problem with battery connection.Direct battery input to pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.
I have rplaced the battery in my trunk a year ago, can this be the reason for CODE 12?
#72--Catalytic converter efficiency failure.Catalyst efficiency below required level.
I've understand that too, I have no cat, I had cut it a year ago too
#65--Power steering switch failure
but what about this code?

dodgeneonACR98
06-20-2006, 12:20 PM
Im not sure about where the switch for the PS is but Id imagine you can replace it at a reasonable price!

TX_Firehawk
06-20-2006, 12:45 PM
#12 is normal. Don't worry about it.


Does your power steering work? Is there a switch for it? I don't know tbh.

n-gin
06-20-2006, 12:57 PM
That power steering switch is for the psi. It senses when psi is high and kicks up the IAC counts and turns off A/C. Another words your engine will be prone to stall when cornnering.

gcc804
06-21-2006, 09:01 AM
thanks guys
so, I have to replace the power steering switch...
can you tell me where this switch is located?

n-gin
06-21-2006, 01:18 PM
On the power steering rack by the lines. :cool:

gcc804
06-23-2006, 04:04 AM
are you talking about this switch? ;) ;)

n-gin
06-23-2006, 05:44 AM
NO, The switch is actually going to be screwed into the psi line going to the steering rack.

RedNeckSmoker
10-15-2006, 06:35 AM
ok i have a 1999 neon and the check engine light has been on for awhile now and in one of the topics it said to remove the fuel pump fuse, and replace but also do the trouble codes also. i did and this is what i come up with, not sure how to read the code lol, ok here we got im going to list them as blinks and in between each number of blinks is a pause time: 1;2;4;3;7;2;5;5 thats was the blinks before i pulled fuse now i also check again after i pulled fuse and replaced it----> 1;2;5;5 can anyone deciefer this?

EZ4U2CHere
10-15-2006, 09:24 AM
That would be
12: Problem with battery connection.Direct battery input to pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.

43: Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time

72: Catalytic converter efficiency failure.Catalyst efficiency below required level.

55: Completion of fault code display on check engine lamp.this is end of message code.


The 12 and 55 before and after you pulled the fuse is normal.

RedNeckSmoker
10-15-2006, 09:44 AM
ok so what to do about code 43, change plaugs and regap? code 72 i believe i have stopped up catalytic convertor.

rice_eater
10-15-2006, 06:54 PM
Your cat is not working, meaning its probably clogged. This is probably causing your misfire, exhaust gas is flowing back into the combustion chambers because of the restriction (clogged cat) in your exhaust.

dodgeneonACR98
10-15-2006, 07:02 PM
If the cat is not clogged and the DS 02 sensor is bad, it may also cause the missfire due to rich/lean air/fuel. Right? I had code 72 when my cat was gutted to and I know it wasn't clogged. LMAO Which ever it is the sensor or a clogged cat, it is prob the reason you got the other code 43. Code 12 isn't nothing but annoying for Hundreds of Neon owners. 55 just tells you that the codes are done running. Good luck

RedNeckSmoker
10-16-2006, 06:33 AM
thanks alot for the info, i think i found me a new home here lol,i like how helpful you guys are are my stinking wife will get off my back (hopes she doesnt read this lmao).

n-gin
10-18-2006, 06:28 AM
I would bet on the plugs not firing causing a missfire, and the added HC and Oxygen from the miss is throwing off the readings of the O2 sensors.
I dought you have anything wrong with your cat.

rice_eater
10-18-2006, 08:59 PM
I would bet not. It would take A LOT of misfiring for the O2 sensor to recognize it as well and throw a code, and I'm pretty sure the driver would notice that too. ;)

n-gin
10-19-2006, 10:15 AM
So you dont agree that the extra oxygen and hydro carbons, also the lack of carbon dioxide from the plugs missfiring will through off your o2 readings.
Also I have never heard of exhaust flowing back into the combustion chamber, Build up pressure yes and lack of power yes, but for it to flow back inside the engine and cause a miss :huh: Exhaust turning red, yes.
Now IF! your 02 is reading cat efficiency is below threashold(or out of peramiters) Then that statement is due to the downsteam o2 wich has no bearing on air fuel ratio. But if your upstreams were reading wrong then yes it will throw off the air fuel ratio, but you would not get an efficiency code.

Now, I'm not saying that your cat is good or bad it can very well be bad and not clogged, but to make it missfire well I dont think so. Now I have seen a miss fire cause fuel to flow into the cat and eventually clogg the cat and also turn it red, and you get a lack of power. ;)

rice_eater
10-19-2006, 11:54 AM
I see what you're saying, I'm just simply saying that it would take quite a bit of consistant misfiring to reach that point, a miss every once in a while isnt going to do it. And if the miss is that bad, the driver would notice it.

This could be another problem entirely though, such as a fuel injector sticking open, dumping too much fuel, causing a misfire, and eventually clogging the cat with the excess fuel. But even in this situation the upstream O2 should sense this and throw a code, or at the very least try to complensate by running the other three cylinders lean, which you should be able to see on the plugs. And you would notice it, trust me. (been there, done that)

n-gin
10-20-2006, 06:17 AM
Yep your right too. If it were doing that it would through a BANK 1 RUNNING RICH code.

uniqueneon
12-19-2006, 11:38 AM
I have a 95 plymouth neon 4door...sohc 2.0 automatic.... will a 5speed tranny fit in here without problems?

uniqueneon
12-19-2006, 11:47 AM
does anyone have any good sites 4 parts 4 a 95 plymouth neon? thanks....

TX_Firehawk
12-19-2006, 12:06 PM
Yes the tranny will fit. They are all the same bell housing.



www.neons.org buy/sell section or your local junk yard is a great resource for parts.

Ahimoth687
02-05-2007, 08:30 PM
Hope someone still subscribes to this thread...

Recently my car will start losing power while going about 60, acting like it's going to stall and in the lower speeds before the stall, starts to shudder. I checked the ignition codes and came up with the list below. What's really odd is that supposedly, you aren't supposed to get codes 2x yet 43 does. After about 10 min w/it off, I'm able to gain the power back again, luckily to make it home after the stall. Based off of what is suggested here, I wasn't quite able to see what steps I should necessarily take to resolve it. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help ahead of time.

CODE 12 Problem with battery connection.Direct battery input to pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.
CODE 43** Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.
CODE 72** Catalytic converter efficiency failure.Catalyst efficiency below required level.
CODE 47** Charging system voltage to low.Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation and no significant change in voltage detected during active test or alternator output.
CODE 43** Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.
CODE 55 Completion of fault code display on check engine lamp.this is end of message code.

alaskaneon
02-05-2007, 09:48 PM
Hope someone still subscribes to this thread...


I'm just impressed you've been around here 5 years and 6 posts? :)

dodgeneonACR98
02-06-2007, 02:22 AM
Good Eye Alaska!!! LOL....

have your battery and alt tested and check to see if maybe the cat is clogged. Other than that I don't know. Good Luck

Ahimoth687
02-06-2007, 07:23 PM
LOL, yeah, I'm pretty much a lurker and only post when I need to. Usually things are said that I may say before I can say them so...

Didn't realize it was that long that I've been here but that just goes to show how good this forum is, I keep coming back!

As for the machine, I'll check those out and see what comes up, thanks for the info...

HairyBagpipes
06-17-2007, 11:36 PM
I am getting codes 25 and 51 from my CEL. I know what these are for, however I have checked my vacuum hoses and replaced the IAC. Is it possible that the MAP sensor is bad and the PCM is overcompensating for a bad MAP reading by cutting back the gas and sucking in too much air? I know the PCM is not receiving a code for the MAP sensor but I'm troubleshooting the problem and I'm coming up blank here. Fuel system is good, fuel pump, filter and injectors are new, new spark plugs, fuel lines intact. Vacuum hoses appear to be fine (replaced two that were cracked). New IAC and new air filter. I'm at a loss, if anyone had this problem please let me know. car does not run, VERY hard start and idle is lumpy, eventually stalling, when accelerator is depressed the engine dies and tries to stall, when I let up on the accelerator the engine comes back to life.....for a little while......

Please Help......

dodgeneonACR98
06-18-2007, 04:52 AM
Well hairbag if it was me I think I would check my fuel preasure and my injectors. A car needs two things to run. Air and Fuel. If the air is chokeing it out you arent getting enough fuel. In turn it would give you code 51 becouse your air/fuel mix is off.

Maybe take it to autozone and see if they can scan the PCM and get a little better Idea as to whats going on. Good Luck!

HairyBagpipes
06-18-2007, 08:41 AM
Well I am 99% sure the injectors are good as I just replaced them a couple of days ago, if I could get it to run anywhere near long enough to get to autozone I'd take it up there, luckily I have a mobile mechanic coming to look at it this morning, he has the code reader and the know how (supposedly) so we'll see what he says.....thanks for the post

40angst
07-18-2007, 12:09 PM
Oops, I think I was trying to create a new post, not reply. Newbie, sorry about that. Anyway I'm getting codes 12 and 72 (CODE 72** Catalytic converter efficiency failure.Catalyst efficiency below required level.) in my 98 Neon (136K miles, replaced head gasket last year, fuel pump this spring)... no difference in how it runs, fuel efficiency or anything else I can detect.

Not sure if I should check out the oxy sensors first or go ahead and have the cat conv replaced. Any clues on how I can tell which is the problem? How do I know if the sensor is bad? Which sensor should I check first? (upstream or downstream?) heck I don't even know where to find them, is there a place I can see schematics? Bought used with no owner's manual.. help!

Laura

dodgeneonACR98
07-18-2007, 12:43 PM
The code #12 is nothing to worry about. I think I would replace the cat when you get a chance. I wouldn't worry to much about it unless it's inspection time, it wont hurt the car infact I ran with an empty cat for a couple years on my car.

Anyhow the sensor you are looking for is located on the exhaust pipe just after the converter. The other oxygen sensor is on the exhaust manifold bolted to the engine. Im not sure how much the sensor will cost but I bet it will cost about the same to replace the cat as it will to replace the little sensor. The upstream 02 sensor is the one on the exhaust mainifold and the down stream 02 is just after the cat. Good Luck Laura

WELCOME TO DODGETALK
Willy

shiboy0721
01-21-2008, 08:06 PM
ok gentlemen i just ran my codes and i came out with a 12... i know dont sweat it and then two codes for 21 and then the 55 yet again no sweat. now with code 21 comming twice would that mean that both up and down streams are gone or am i still stuck in the shade on this... i just had a pacesetter header and cat back exhaust put on it,and a MPx PCM installed...... the CEL goes out every now and again, but for the most it stays on?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? trouble i am yes over a simple little code........any help is better than no help

1=007
02-11-2008, 12:33 AM
problem I just put in a new ignition in my 2000 neon from a 2004 and I cant get the car to start the lights come on and radio but car will not kick over ???

lra7469
02-17-2008, 11:05 PM
My mechanic gave some fault codes like
1. P171

lra7469
02-17-2008, 11:09 PM
My mechanic gave some fault codes like
1. P171
2. P0351
3. 0500
4. 1390
5. 1294

I was wondering are there any more codes for a Dodge 1995 neon .if so what do these codes mean?
thanks :help: :help:

lra7469
02-17-2008, 11:42 PM
I also found a post listing 00 -02 codes 2nd generation codes ,would these codes work on a 1995 dodge neon? I guess these are diagnostic trouble codes?
I figured this out since post #83 lol

TX_Firehawk
02-18-2008, 10:55 AM
IIRC the 2nd gen (00-05) spit out P-Codes where the 95-99 they are just #'s (like 21, 43, etc etc).

Not sure where to find info on the net about them since I am a 1st gen guy. I would think your local auto parts store could tell you what they are. If not I would think a Haynes manual would have them listed in it as they are for the 1st gens.



Good luck.


~Fire

Shamrock6699
02-25-2008, 06:35 AM
Never had the check engine light come on before until now. I did the error code checking via turning the key. I have written down the lights but I'm little confused interpreting them. Any help would be appreciated.


Flashes were as followed.


1 pause, 2 pause, 3 pause, 7 pause, 5 pause, 5 pause.



Can someone tell me what this means? Also if possible can you tell me what needs to be done to fix it? I have a emissions test I was supposed to get done this week. They are not going to let me test with check engine light on so I need to get this fixed and the check engine light cleared.

TX_Firehawk
02-25-2008, 12:03 PM
12 = Normal - start of codes


37 = P1899 P/N Switch Failure
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch, No RPM Drop At Lockup
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit


55 = Normal - end of codes




You have an auto transmission?

Shamrock6699
02-25-2008, 12:15 PM
Thank you so much for the response FireHawk. Yes I have a auto transmission.





I managed to get by the emissions test today though so I hope I'm in the clear.

First I disconnected my battery and the check engine light cleared off. Then when I was driving I wanted to test it out so when the light turned green I gave the car a really good amount of gas and as soon as the RPMS went really high the check engine light kicked back on.

So I went to my Mechanic to try and get it fixed before the emissions test, but he ended up clearing my codes from his computer tool. Then I drove slowly to the emission's facility (not getting RPM to high) and light stayed off. I mean I can still drive fast, just can't floor it and try to go fast out the gate if you know what I mean.

Anyway luckily the emission test people only hooked my car up to a computer without spinning my wheels so I came out clean and passed (since error codes were cleared).


Anyway I'd imagine the check engine light will come back on if get RPM to fast. Any advice about this? Is this something that absolutely needs to be fixed or my car will eventually break? Or can I get away with leaving this alone and just try not to get rpm's to high? I mean I rarely try to take off fast from a stop anyway and rarely do I go over 75 on the highway. Think I can manage this with just being careful?