2.7 to 3.2/3.5 Swap Information [Archive] - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums

: 2.7 to 3.2/3.5 Swap Information


Daytrepper
04-17-2007, 03:24 AM
Here's the lowdown on what is involved in swapping your Intrepid from a 2.7 to the 3.2 or 3.5 HO engine. This also applies to the Chrysler Concorde.

Engines:
You must match your year range with your engine. If you have a 1998-2001 Intrepid/Concorde, you will need a 1998-2001 3.2 or 3.5 engine. For 2002-2004 models, only the 3.5 Magnum or 3.5 HO can be used.

Engines must be complete as possible. They need to have the starter, alternator, a/c pump, power steering pump, a good engine wiring harness, upper plenum, and motor mount brackets. Just ask for a complete "drop out" when calling a boneyard.

The engines can come out of any LH model car, which includes Chrysler 300M, LHS, or Concorde. Intrepid ES, Concorde LXI, and Intrepid R/T are also good donors.

ECU/Transmission:

The 2.7 ECU will operate a 3.2/3.5 engine without problems. The 3.2/3.5 wiring harnesses will plug right into the 2.7 car and computer.

The transmission will also bolt right up. All LH models were equipped with the 42LE. You will gain a gear ratio advantage as well, because the 2.7 vehicles had a 3.89 ratio, and the 3.2/3.5 models had a 3.66 ratio.

Parts:

Here's what you need to connect a 3.2/3.5 into a 2.7 car. Everything is pretty much the same parts wise for 1998-2004, with the exception of a few parts. The 2002-2004 models have an IAT sensor in the air intake hose, whereas the 98-01's do not.

Throttle/Cruise Cables
Air intake to throttle body pipe
Oil Cooler Lines
Power Steering tube (pump to high pressure line)
Power steering reservoir
Power steering suction tube (reservoir to pump
Power steering reservoir bracket
Transmission dipstick tube
Transmission cooler lines
Belts
Upper/Lower Radiator hoses
Heater hoses
Torque converter bolts
Radiator (2.7 does not have oil cooler, 3.2/3.5 does)

You can get all this stuff used, or new from the Dodge dealer, they are relatively cheap, except the radiator. I would purchase the radiator at a radiator specialty shop to get the best price. You can retain the original 2.7 radiator, and install an aftermarket oil cooler (hayden brand is best), but I suggest you have your original radiator cleaned and thoroughly checked for leaks or other problems.

It sounds like alot, but it is still cheaper than installing a used 2.7. The 3.2/3.5 engines do not have the notorious problems that the 2.7s do, and will last and last, if taken care of.

A/C: The 2.7 a/c lines can be re-bent and re-used, or you can get the factory 3.2/3.5 lines from the boneyard with your engine. They will bolt right in, and make for a much neater look. You could always buy them new also, if you wanted to spend an extra $200.

Exhaust: The 2.7 exhaust has to be slightly modified to work. The passenger side pipe has to be cut right behind the post-cat O2 sensor and shortened 2 1/2 inches, and re-welded back together. The hangers have to be re-positioned slightly to get them perfect.

93-97 3.5 engines: 1st generation engines are not compatible for the swap.

This is pretty much a bolt-in, plug-in swap, if you have all the correct parts.

This swap works only with a complete, used 3.2 or 3.5 engine. I suggest replacing the spark plugs, oil pan gasket, timing belt, and water pump before installing it. Its not absolutely necessary, but will save you maintenance work down the road, especially if the engine you get has over 50K miles.

If you install a 3.2, you will gain about 30HP, a 3.5HO, about 45 HP, over the 2.7. Not to mention the lack of the 2.7 problems. :rck:

Post your swap questions/pictures/results/concerns here, I will be glad to help!

ole_pappy
07-22-2007, 04:56 PM
hi iam in the process of doin a 2.7 to 3.5 swap in my 98. i was wonderin if you had to do anything to the exhaust on the drivers side as you don't mention havin to shortin it .

Daytrepper
07-23-2007, 03:45 PM
hi iam in the process of doin a 2.7 to 3.5 swap in my 98. i was wonderin if you had to do anything to the exhaust on the drivers side as you don't mention havin to shortin it .


Nothing has to be done to the drivers side pipe. However-- you might have to bend the hanger alittle to get it to line back up, but that will depend on how well the passenger side pipe was lined up when it was cut and re-welded.

ole_pappy
07-23-2007, 06:45 PM
kool ty sir i appreciate the reply

ballinnmiami240
07-31-2007, 05:23 PM
Do you guys use the 2.7 transmission or use the 3.2 trans?

I have a local yard asking $1500 for an engine/trans/ecu/harness/rad/mounts........basically anything I want fromt the engine bay. Motor has 100k and is coming out of a 98 concord. I am getting a 99 intrepid, but the engine is dead. All I basically need is an engine.

ole_pappy
07-31-2007, 06:36 PM
you need the tranny as it is the same as the 3.2's. you also don't need the ecm as it will run on the 2.7's ecm. you do need the mounts , and the rad ok

ole_pappy
07-31-2007, 06:36 PM
oops ya don't need the tranny dam typos

b1llyw
08-02-2007, 01:44 PM
Might be fun to swap a 2.7 for a 3.5 HO in a Sebring or Stratus sedan. Nice sleeper.

ole_pappy
08-02-2007, 06:35 PM
i got my engine in ok , but when i was hookin it up i found a vacuum pipe from the intake under the throttle body n have no coresponding one on my old 2.7

Daytrepper
08-03-2007, 03:15 AM
i got my engine in ok , but when i was hookin it up i found a vacuum pipe from the intake under the throttle body n have no coresponding one on my old 2.7

The only one I can think of that is UNDER the throttle body is not a vacuum line, but a coolant line. It is a 3/8 hose, and goes over to the surge tank. The line tees off from the main heater hose line under the throttle body.

ole_pappy
08-03-2007, 10:01 PM
do you mean to the coolant reservoir ?

Daytrepper
08-03-2007, 11:07 PM
do you mean to the coolant reservoir ?

Yeah, to the coolant reservoir.

ole_pappy
08-04-2007, 04:04 AM
ok , i have a hose comin from the bottom of the tank and i attached it to the stell line that runs from the fron to the back of the motor and the t's. the other t has the return line from the heater on it. the steel line i am wonderin about comes out under the throttle body n ends near the fuel n return line for fuel . that steel line is smaller than the hose from the reservoir . any other ideas or some place i might find a better picture or description of the back of the 3.5 ?

ole_pappy
08-04-2007, 07:26 AM
you were right about the hose, the 2.7 has the hose goind into a t on the heater hose from the block, thats why i missed it , never disconnected it . ty for your help

ole_pappy
08-06-2007, 05:40 AM
ty for the help i have one last question as i am about finished installing the engine. the motor came from a 2000 concorde and the crankposition sensorlead doesn't fit the sensor from my 98 transaxle , any ideas as to why?

Daytrepper
08-06-2007, 04:28 PM
ty for the help i have one last question as i am about finished installing the engine. the motor came from a 2000 concorde and the crankposition sensorlead doesn't fit the sensor from my 98 transaxle , any ideas as to why?

Youve probably got the old style sensor in your car. Just go buy one for a 2000 and up Intrepid or Concorde and that will be the right one. Get it from the Chrysler dealer, its substantially cheaper than the old style sensor you have.

ole_pappy
08-06-2007, 05:25 PM
ty sir i figured it was somethin like that

Kimura
08-09-2007, 04:19 PM
Does anyone know the estimated costs of engine swapping, and what it might cost to have a mechanic do the swap?

The most I've ever done to an engine is replace the valve cover gasket on my Shadow's 2.5...I'd be too intimidated of an engine swap.

I have a 2000 Intrepid with 187k miles on it with the infamous 2.7 Up until now it's been trouble free, in fact it still is, but I hear what sounds like an ever so slight knocking sound...my mechanic thinks it may be the camshaft bearing but without opening it up we don't know.

You can only hear it if the car is stopped and the HVAC and radio are off...You can't hear it over even talking...it's barely noticeable but it is there.

When I was at the junkyard yesterday I came across a white Intrepid that had no bumper or rear wheel but still ran, and I got to experience the "2.7 knock" first hand. Broke my heart to see the poor car dying...

Anyway...

With the miles it has I was thinking it might be more economical to save up and drop a gently used 3.5 in there rather than dumping a ton of money into the 2.7.

I was just wondering if anyone has experience price-related...also do you need a new fuel pump or is it universal for all engines?

Thanks!

Daytrepper
08-10-2007, 03:00 AM
If you have a mechanic shop do it, count on a range of $2700-$3500, depending on how familiar they are with the conversion. As for the fuel pump, its universal, will work with all engines.

JRRR
11-04-2007, 03:25 AM
In the info. about swapping a 2.7L does the 3.2/3.5L have to have dual overhead cams also??????

Daytrepper
11-17-2007, 09:45 AM
In the info. about swapping a 2.7L does the 3.2/3.5L have to have dual overhead cams also??????

3.2/3.5 are not dual overhead cam engines. They dont need to be to complete the swap.

JRRR
11-17-2007, 02:57 PM
Thanks for the information on the 3.2/3.5L

thunderbirdrob
02-24-2008, 03:48 PM
whre do I place the chains or straps to lift the 2.7 out. I used lifted on the cams on the toasted one but not recommended on the good engine. Maybe you can help me

CHEVYLUV80
03-30-2008, 11:47 AM
HI, I have a question. How come the first gen. 3.5 won't work? Is it the OBD1/OBD2 computer stuff or the trans bolt pattern. I can get my hands on a 1994 intrepid with a 3.5 24 valve real cheap.

Daytrepper
04-01-2008, 01:54 AM
HI, I have a question. How come the first gen. 3.5 won't work? Is it the OBD1/OBD2 computer stuff or the trans bolt pattern. I can get my hands on a 1994 intrepid with a 3.5 24 valve real cheap.

Several reasons. There are so many differences between the 1st and second gen 3.5's that it makes swapping them into the second gens counterproductive.

Electronics, wiring, exhaust, oil pan, and engine mounts just for starters. To add, the 1st gen 3.5 has less HP than a 2.7, whereas a second gen has 50-60HP more than the 2.7. You would basically have twice the work in the conversion as a second gen 3.5 would, and much less power.

Swapping in a second gen 3.5 or 3.2 is pretty much parts swapping and plug and play. Just make sure you match the year ranges (98-01 to 98-01, and 02-04 to 02-04).

H.O. Concorde
04-19-2008, 08:09 AM
Hi,
I recently completed the 2.7 to 3.5 H.O. shuffle. Everything was pretty straight forward and I incurred no issues in the installation due to all of the detailed posts in the Intrepid forum. The donor engine came out of a 1999 LHS. The engine was installed into a 1999 Concorde. Swapped the motor and transmission. The engine turned over and started with only a 30 second rough idle. The idle jumped to around 2500 RPM. This lasted for approx. 3 to 5 minutes. The idle now rests at 1500 to 1600 RPM and 1000 RPM in gear. I recently completed all of the exhaust work and have no vacuum leaks. (Sprayed starting fluid all around the manifold) I drove the vehicle in the city, stop and go for about 30 minutes and took the vehicle on the highway for a 50 mile round trip thinking surely the computer would remap itself. NOPE! Still idles @
1500 to 1600 RPM. No Check engine light. I've tried to blip the throttle wide open. The computer takes over around 3000 RPM and engages the rev limiter. I did install a new throttle position sensor. I unplugged it at idle and had no change in idle speed. This was the only check engine light I incurred, because I caused it. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated. I e-mailed Dan but have received no reply. With so many swaps that have been completed I was hoping someone has seen this one.
Thanks!

Daytrepper
04-20-2008, 07:38 PM
It sounds like a vacuum leak or bad IAC motor. Its common for them to leak around the EGR tubes where they meet the plenum -- the plenum o-rings can get smashed sometimes when the plenum is installed. You may have sent the email to my old address, I got a new one here recently.

usg4595
06-30-2008, 03:19 PM
Before I post my question, just wanted to give an overdue thanks to everyone who has taken the time to post comments/directions on the 2.7 to 3.2 swap. Mine went in w/o any problems at all about 2 years ago, the extra HP makes it alot more fun to drive.

Now my question. On the passenger side, where is the friggin hookup for the o2 Sensor into the main wiring harness? This is the second sensor, the one after the cat. I missed it when I put the engine in. I couldn't find where to plug it in later. I checked the old 2.7to make sure it wasn't on the engine wiring harness. I have pulled the intake plenum twice now looking all over for it and can't find it.

Thanks-
Mark

CJK440
07-03-2008, 10:36 AM
I have an 01 Intrepid with of course a blown 2.7. I was going to rebuild it but the waterpump shrapnel killed the pump, crank and cylinders. I'm now looking at a swap.

I have a lead on a 34k mile 2000 300M with the 3.5. The car is totaled and I can get the whole thing for a good price. I just don't see people using 300M parts in the Intrepid/Concorde swaps.

Is it a good donor vehicle or not?? Is it the same semi-plug and play swap as a 3.2 swap??

ncmopar440
07-03-2008, 09:59 PM
Ok I have a 02 Intrepid with guess what? Yes a 2.7 with a broke timing chain. Now I can get a wrecked 02 Intrepid with a good 3.2 with less that 40,000 miles on it. Now my question is I live in NC and with the Emissions Inspection can I use my same Computer or do I have to use the Computer from the 3.2? If I use the one from the 3.2 then it will fail Inspection cause the VIN #'s will be diffrent from the car versus computer. Any help in this will be greatly appreciated.

Slo_Stng
07-10-2008, 11:59 PM
OK so I recently purchased a 01 Intrepid with the 2.7 for $600 thinking the only thing wrong with it was the oil pump. Not knowing much about these cars I did some research and found lots of horror stories on them. So now Im sure its not just the pump. THe good thing is I found a 00 3.2 for $550. My Q is will the alt from the 2.7 work on the 3.2, and do I really need the convertor bolts from the 3.2? TIA

Daytrepper
07-12-2008, 03:33 AM
OK so I recently purchased a 01 Intrepid with the 2.7 for $600 thinking the only thing wrong with it was the oil pump. Not knowing much about these cars I did some research and found lots of horror stories on them. So now Im sure its not just the pump. THe good thing is I found a 00 3.2 for $550. My Q is will the alt from the 2.7 work on the 3.2, and do I really need the convertor bolts from the 3.2? TIA

Alt will not work. None of the accessories will work from the 2.7. You need a complete 3.2 with alt, a/c, starter, p/s pump, engine harness, all hoses and connecting parts.

Converter bolts should be replaced because they are one time use, and without the factory lock-tite (which gets destroyed when you remove them) they tend to come loose, even when putting Permatex lock-tite on them or equivalent. They are cheap, and can save alot of trouble.

CJK440
08-01-2008, 09:55 AM
I finished my swap using a 2000 300m as a donor. I had the whole car in my possession so all the parts were there. Instead of cutting and welding the pass side headpipe I simply removed the cat from the donor and swapped it with the intrepid pipe. It still wasn't a perfect fit and I think I should have swapped the entire pipe from the first muffler forward.

I reused the 2.7 A/C lines and they seem to fit OK. Not worth enough to break open the system.

The car fired up with a turn of the key.

shiftauto
08-05-2008, 11:43 AM
Hi everyone, This is my first swap on an intrepid Im doing it as a favor for a friend thatsgoing through a divorce and she needs this car running! I purchased the complete engine from a yard. It came from an 01 concord going into an 01 intrepid install was fine engine is in all hoses and plugs were fine however it WONT start. I tried the 3.2 comp no start. put the 2.7 comp back in still no start. Removed the batt to reset everything. Still no starting. took it to the dealer they said it couldnt be made to work the 3.2 comp needs a skim code, and they cant do any flashing or anything to make it work. Have i done something wrong? Ho do I know if the ecm is a skim ecu or not.
I pmd and emailed daytreper but have no response yet, Im very frustrated with this job, any help would be appreciated!
thanks

CJK440
08-05-2008, 12:42 PM
I reused the 2.7 A/C lines and they seem to fit OK. Not worth enough to break open the system.

One thing to watch out for if you re-use the 2.7 A/C hoses is contact with the front radiator support under engine torque. I had my Intrepid die on me and throw codes when the electrical connector on one of the lines chafed and shorted the 5v ref signal to ground.

It was a quick fix and a little trim of the support makes sure it won't happen again but it was a PITA

One other question I have. I guess I was supposed to get a power steering code and check engine light with the 3.5 but I don't (no complaints). Did the 2000 300m that I stole the engine out of not have this Power Steering switch??

CJK440
08-05-2008, 12:44 PM
Hi everyone, This is my first swap on an intrepid Im doing it as a favor for a friend thatsgoing through a divorce and she needs this car running! I purchased the complete engine from a yard. It came from an 01 concord going into an 01 intrepid install was fine engine is in all hoses and plugs were fine however it WONT start. I tried the 3.2 comp no start. put the 2.7 comp back in still no start. Removed the batt to reset everything. Still no starting. took it to the dealer they said it couldnt be made to work the 3.2 comp needs a skim code, and they cant do any flashing or anything to make it work. Have i done something wrong? Ho do I know if the ecm is a skim ecu or not.
I pmd and emailed daytreper but have no response yet, Im very frustrated with this job, any help would be appreciated!
thanks

My 01 2.7 computer is running a 3.5 out of a 2000 300M without a hitch. Its gotta be a forgotten connector etc. Can you run any codes??

Daytrepper
08-06-2008, 11:23 AM
One other question I have. I guess I was supposed to get a power steering code and check engine light with the 3.5 but I don't (no complaints). Did the 2000 300m that I stole the engine out of not have this Power Steering switch??

Only 98's and 99's had the switch...even some early 00's. If you dont have it, no worries.

Daytrepper
08-06-2008, 11:26 AM
Hi everyone, This is my first swap on an intrepid Im doing it as a favor for a friend thatsgoing through a divorce and she needs this car running! I purchased the complete engine from a yard. It came from an 01 concord going into an 01 intrepid install was fine engine is in all hoses and plugs were fine however it WONT start. I tried the 3.2 comp no start. put the 2.7 comp back in still no start. Removed the batt to reset everything. Still no starting. took it to the dealer they said it couldnt be made to work the 3.2 comp needs a skim code, and they cant do any flashing or anything to make it work. Have i done something wrong? Ho do I know if the ecm is a skim ecu or not.
I pmd and emailed daytreper but have no response yet, Im very frustrated with this job, any help would be appreciated!
thanks

Generally the ECM's are not interchangeable unless there is no security system (SKIM) or you get the vin changed in the new ecm to match your car.

You may have corrupted the body control module by hooking up the 3.2 PCM and trying to start it too many times.

Start simple, see what you are missing, check fuel/spark and see which one you have. That will start you in the right direction.

Usually these swaps start up like they were always in the car, unless there is an issue with the engine that was installed.

Biggest mistake people make is messing with the computers. Best thing you can do is leave the original 2.7 computer in. If you must install another one, verify that it doesnt have SKIM or get the key, BCM and skim unit from the donor car -- then have the vin changed to yours.

Daytrepper
08-06-2008, 11:29 AM
One thing to watch out for if you re-use the 2.7 A/C hoses is contact with the front radiator support under engine torque. I had my Intrepid die on me and throw codes when the electrical connector on one of the lines chafed and shorted the 5v ref signal to ground.

It was a quick fix and a little trim of the support makes sure it won't happen again but it was a PITA


Ive had this happen too, I found it was from installing the radiator support without re-checking the a/c lines. The support will rub right thru the wires and cause a short.

shiftauto
08-07-2008, 05:25 PM
got it fixed guys! used the original ecm pulled codes and fount crank angle was not responding. Purchaced the correct sensor, car fired on first try!

however it is throwing code 1495 I think ita a vac line to the back, there were 2 connections and only one line from the engine. I capped one and plummed the other. mebbe reverse that? or cap both. or perhaps a tee? any sugestions.

thanks for the help.

Slo_Stng
08-08-2008, 09:12 AM
Ok I got the 3.2 in, now I'm dealing with the a/c. Im going to use the 2.7 lines, and I have the original 2.7 compressor that I havent dissconected, and I also have a 3.2 compressor with out lines. My question is should I leave the 2.7 comp. in there or replace it with the 3.2? Or should I just replace the pulley and clutch, and will it break the system open if I just replace pulley and clutch?...And this 108 deg. weather in Dallas aint helping:VHOT:

Daytrepper
08-10-2008, 05:05 PM
Ok I got the 3.2 in, now I'm dealing with the a/c. Im going to use the 2.7 lines, and I have the original 2.7 compressor that I havent dissconected, and I also have a 3.2 compressor with out lines. My question is should I leave the 2.7 comp. in there or replace it with the 3.2? Or should I just replace the pulley and clutch, and will it break the system open if I just replace pulley and clutch?...And this 108 deg. weather in Dallas aint helping:VHOT:

It would be easier to get the 3.2 compressor and lines.

You can just swap the clutches over and it wont open the system, it will be alittle more difficult to re-route the lines since they will still be connected to the compressor.

chagob
10-04-2008, 12:37 PM
Does anyone have any video or pictures of the 2.7 to 3.2 or 3.7 swap?

cbonez1
11-09-2008, 11:52 AM
I just wanted to tell everyone that i just did a swap with a 3.2. It was alot easier than i thought it was going to be. Took me a while, but with the info i found from a few different postings, it went pretty smooth. It took me about 25 hours but i did it myself. I`m still fixing a couple of small things but it is a relief that it is running. However i do have one problem that i can`t figure out. I am getting a code that is telling me that the # 5 cylinder is misfiring. I put a new coil on it and it still has the code and runs rough. I have checked the others by unplugging them and the # 4 cylinder doesn`t seem like it changed anything when i unplugged it. Is there anything that is common with the 3.2 misfiring? or any suggestions?

ironman1979
11-14-2008, 03:00 PM
i really hope thsi isnt a dead thread. i am trying to find a source engine for my trep and i cant find a complete drop out around the kansas city area. anyone have any ideas on where i can find a 3.5 i dont want a 3.2 if im gonna spend my money im gonna get what i want.

cbonez1
11-14-2008, 07:02 PM
the passenger side o2 plug is on the transmission.

Willas
11-20-2008, 10:51 AM
I was just wondering if you could give me better instructions on how to complete the change over. Step by step would be nice. I got the new 3.2 engine in but can't start the vehicle. Do I have to reset any computer components

paperthin
12-10-2008, 01:31 AM
hey whats good!? i bought a 2002 intrepid with our beloved 2.7 already in its glory. headgaskets blown, low end knock and all. and to think, i was gonna buy the same motor!? (shaaaame!) UNTILL I CAME ACROSS THIS FORUM THAT IS so, motor swap..... complete drop out from donor, (want to go with 3.5 ho), 3.5 radiator, i geuss what i really need to know is what vin indication for the 3.5, will it matter? -g,m- or v ? will most everything will be self explanitory out side of the swap directions?

Daytrepper
12-10-2008, 04:07 AM
hey whats good!? i bought a 2002 intrepid with our beloved 2.7 already in its glory. headgaskets blown, low end knock and all. and to think, i was gonna buy the same motor!? (shaaaame!) UNTILL I CAME ACROSS THIS FORUM THAT IS so, motor swap..... complete drop out from donor, (want to go with 3.5 ho), 3.5 radiator, i geuss what i really need to know is what vin indication for the 3.5, will it matter? -g,m- or v ? will most everything will be self explanitory out side of the swap directions?

For a 2002, you'll need a 2002-2004 3.5 engine. There are two different ones. They will both work, but one has more HP than the other.

You have a choice of the 3.5 Magnum, or the 3.5 High Output. The high output is about 15 more HP than the Magnum engine, but the swap process is the same on both.

I have this book on ebay that explains the whole process step by step start to finish if anyone is looking for complete instructions:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320319193123&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem=

paperthin
12-10-2008, 11:14 PM
hey thanks for the book daytrep. everything looks out lined pretty well in your book right down to torque specs. so you have kits too huh? how about a set up for my 02 intrepid 2.7 (-to 3.5Ho) ................complete car waiting to be dismantled

Daytrepper
12-11-2008, 04:09 AM
hey thanks for the book daytrep. everything looks out lined pretty well in your book right down to torque specs. so you have kits too huh? how about a set up for my 02 intrepid 2.7 (-to 3.5Ho) ................complete car waiting to be dismantled


Your welcome. If youve got a complete car as a donor, youve got everything you need. Id replace the hoses and belts with new ones at least, and the spark plugs and PCV valve.

The kits are getting pricey due to Chryslers recent supplier issues, so its to your benefit if you can find the stuff used.

paperthin
12-11-2008, 11:52 AM
i dont have a donor car just yet. just the main car untouched, i thought maybe you guys would have abetter deal, ..............still on the hunt

paperthin
12-11-2008, 11:54 AM
oh and i came across a police package. any different? will that work?

Daytrepper
12-15-2008, 10:30 PM
oh and i came across a police package. any different? will that work?

Police or any package will work, just have to match year range with your car -- 98-01 to 98-01, and 02-04 with 02-04, as long as its a 3.2, 3.5, or 3.5HO.

paperthin
12-15-2008, 11:15 PM
i've been looking up parts on a sight called car-parts.com it has all sorts of used listings for a specific area

ssseod
01-14-2009, 11:23 AM
I just finished swapping a 2.7 for a 3.2. My Intrepid is a 2001 and I put a 2000 engine in it. I have very little auto mechanic experience and i was able to do this in my gargage. It took me about 6 weeks as I was only working on it a little bit of the time. The car is running great and started the first time without any problems. I paid 750 for the engine and about 600-700 in additional parts for the conversion. This included a getting a used alternator, starter and A/C compressor in addition to the conversion kit. It was simple and straightforward. I highly recommend getting a copy of Daytreppers how-to manual!!! It's well put together in an easy to understand format with pictures.

Now I just have to figure out what to do with this 2.7 boat anchor sitting in my garage??

Thanks Dan for all your help and patience!!!

mellomike
02-10-2009, 01:43 AM
i found a 1998 lhs with a 3.5 i have a 2002 concorde 2.7 i wanted to know if i bought the motor and the tranny would they match up to the frame. if the frame matches what else should i get besides the wiring hornest everything on the motor is included. i can get the motor and transmission for 500 dollars would i need the computer from the lhs

xR1pp3Rx
02-18-2009, 02:00 PM
um read this thread more carefully my friend ... your answere is already here.

on a side note.. i have my 3.2 in and it needs only a few things to finish her up. the project is for my oldest boy who has very little time between school and sports. my question relates to hopefully saving him what prescious money he has as he doesnt have a regular job during the school yr., most important to me is his grades anyhow ;) anyways... my question comes from the back side of the engine. the 2.7 had a conglomeration of hoses back there. the 3.2 doesnt seem to have that many ports or connection points. can most of these be by-passed? as in can i simply use the same amount of hose as there is ports (EEK) lol... could anyone post a picture of the final hose assemblies in back of the motor? or give a possible detailed discription of the ports versuses what hose attaches to certain point and were the other end goes? man i really wish i could buy that book of day trippers but at this point it seems frivolous (again trying to save every ounce of money incase he needs a battery or some other last min stuff before we fire it up),to buy it with only a couple of conections to make. ive searched every were for similar pictures. my 3.2 was already pulled from the engine bay before we bought it so i have no reference to what goes were on the 3.2



my car is a 01 intrepid and the engine is from a 98 concorde. other than that... what is the protocall for the old fuel in the tank... has been parked for 2 yrs now and it was on empty when she blew up. can a guy just fill her up with fresh gas and add some sea foam to it?
any help will go a long ways to seeing my boy on the road in what i think will be a great car for him.

jim022659
02-19-2009, 12:31 AM
oops ya don't need the tranny dam typos

if you dont need the tranny with a swap to the 3.5, then were does the xtra gear come from? just the fact that the ratios are different?

Kimura
03-04-2009, 06:14 PM
So, I'm about to take the plunge and do an engine swap. Reliability wise, is the 3.2 or 3.5 any better than the other, or is it about the same?

Other, important question. I just want to clarify...can I reuse the transmission I have and hook it up to a 3.2 or 3.5, or do i need another transmission?

Daytrepper
03-04-2009, 11:16 PM
if you dont need the tranny with a swap to the 3.5, then were does the xtra gear come from? just the fact that the ratios are different?

The transfer gear ratios are different, 2.7 is 3.89 and 3.2/3.5 trans is 3.66. They both are identical transmissions except for the transfer gears behind the rear cover.

Daytrepper
03-04-2009, 11:18 PM
So, I'm about to take the plunge and do an engine swap. Reliability wise, is the 3.2 or 3.5 any better than the other, or is it about the same?

Other, important question. I just want to clarify...can I reuse the transmission I have and hook it up to a 3.2 or 3.5, or do i need another transmission?

3.2/3.5 are very reliable. Not many issues with them.

If you have high mileage, go ahead and swap out the trans with a lower mile unit. You can keep your 2.7 trans in if you wish, there will be no problems bolting a 3.2/5 to it.

Boneyards sell these transmissions for $400 or less with super low miles, so if you have well over 100,000 miles on your car you might as well change it out. Get one from a 2.7 so you have the good gearing.

jim022659
03-04-2009, 11:20 PM
ok thanks. I see I already have the better gearing since I have the 04 2.7 with 40000 on it. sweet

Kimura
03-06-2009, 04:13 PM
Daytrepper,

I came across a manual on ebay you created for engine swaps. that is very cool, and should come in handy.

madatmy2.7
03-14-2009, 02:42 PM
I have a 98 Concorde with a bad 2.7 and my father has a 97 3.5 from an intrepid. I was hoping to do the swap because he has the computers and the trany but is there some other reason I cant do the swap? The 3.5 is a LH motor and it had the 42LE Trans. Is it the computers and can I just swap those as well?:huh:

Daytrepper
03-15-2009, 03:22 AM
Daytrepper,

I came across a manual on ebay you created for engine swaps. that is very cool, and should come in handy.

Your welcome Kimura. If you need any help with it let me know. Always glad to assist in getting another Trep running!

Daytrepper
03-15-2009, 03:25 AM
I have a 98 Concorde with a bad 2.7 and my father has a 97 3.5 from an intrepid. I was hoping to do the swap because he has the computers and the trany but is there some other reason I cant do the swap? The 3.5 is a LH motor and it had the 42LE Trans. Is it the computers and can I just swap those as well?:huh:

Unfortunately the 93-97 engines are not compatible for the swap. Basically, you would be looking at replacing every last wiring harness in your Concorde with parts from the Trep to make it work, plus some modifications to make the engine fit. Computers, BCM, wiring are all worlds different.

The complete redesign of the LH model in 1998 is the reason.

For your 98 Concorde, 98-01 3.2 engine or 3.5HO, complete, is what you need for the swap.

darkcougarkat
03-15-2009, 02:18 PM
I performed the 2.7 to 3.5 swap on my 98 concorde, and everything checked out.. at first.

I am having an issue where especially in the winter if i don't warm it to operating temperature fully (middle of the gauge) it will get about a mile and the ignition cuts, if i take out the auto-shutdown relay and swap it with any of the others its fine the rest of the day. next morning is the same issue.

Any ideas? Im quite stumped on this here, any input would certainly be appreciated

madatmy2.7
03-16-2009, 10:47 AM
Ok thank daytrepper

AZ_Ron
03-24-2009, 12:41 AM
Well, here's my story... I've owned a '97 Trep for the past 3 years with the 3.3L engine. I now have 215,000 on it, and it still runs fine, but the rest of the car is falling apart around it. I really like Trep's and love the newer body styles. I found an '01 with 78,000 miles on it with the 2.7L in it. I normally do a lot of research before a big purchase, but this time around, I didn't do enough.
I've had the car 2 months, and on the way to a service call last Friday, about 2 hours outside of town, I looked down to see the temp gauge almost pegged. I immediately pulled over and popped the hood. Quite a bit of smoke (Smelled of oil) was coming off the engine. After it cooled down, I was unable to get it to start again. Had it towed into the shop in the small town I had just passed and they called me the next day to tell me they found water in the oil ( I Did check the oil right after I pulled over and it looked normal)
They told me it probably had blown a head gasket, and since the heads and block are aluminum, it would need a full rebuild, deck the heads, block, etc... $1700, plus parts. So I'm figuring $3,000 on the car I just bought for $3400. That doesn't make any sense...

It's in awesome shape, except for the engine.
A buddy of mine did some searching around and can get me a complete drop out 3.2L for $700...
I'm going to get the car back to town and my buddy and I will do our own diagnostics... might get lucky and it'll just be blown head gasket, but I'm not holding my breath. I bought Daytreppers book on ebay a few minutes ago planning on having to swap the engine. I've done several engine swaps, but all on older muscle cars... never something with 8 billion wires/hose/vac lines, etc... from what I've read though, this seems very doable for me.
I love forums... always handy answers and people to field questions!!!
Thanks for a place to learn!!

Ron

Daytrepper
03-25-2009, 01:37 AM
I performed the 2.7 to 3.5 swap on my 98 concorde, and everything checked out.. at first.

I am having an issue where especially in the winter if i don't warm it to operating temperature fully (middle of the gauge) it will get about a mile and the ignition cuts, if i take out the auto-shutdown relay and swap it with any of the others its fine the rest of the day. next morning is the same issue.

Any ideas? Im quite stumped on this here, any input would certainly be appreciated

Most likely the crankshaft sensor.

BK R/T
04-15-2009, 11:53 AM
Hi,
I recently completed the 2.7 to 3.5 H.O. shuffle. Everything was pretty straight forward and I incurred no issues in the installation due to all of the detailed posts in the Intrepid forum. The donor engine came out of a 1999 LHS. The engine was installed into a 1999 Concorde. Swapped the motor and transmission. The engine turned over and started with only a 30 second rough idle. The idle jumped to around 2500 RPM. This lasted for approx. 3 to 5 minutes. The idle now rests at 1500 to 1600 RPM and 1000 RPM in gear. I recently completed all of the exhaust work and have no vacuum leaks. (Sprayed starting fluid all around the manifold) I drove the vehicle in the city, stop and go for about 30 minutes and took the vehicle on the highway for a 50 mile round trip thinking surely the computer would remap itself. NOPE! Still idles @
1500 to 1600 RPM. No Check engine light. I've tried to blip the throttle wide open. The computer takes over around 3000 RPM and engages the rev limiter. I did install a new throttle position sensor. I unplugged it at idle and had no change in idle speed. This was the only check engine light I incurred, because I caused it. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated. I e-mailed Dan but have received no reply. With so many swaps that have been completed I was hoping someone has seen this one.
Thanks!

YOU :rck:
Now where did u go to get it done. I own a Intrepid R/t but some idiot hit me on my right fendor kinda hard. And alot of body shops tell me its gonna b too expensive. I can easily get my hands on another intrepid for $700 easy. So i need help doin the swap. Can u help?

Kimura
04-15-2009, 12:09 PM
Well I may have found myself a 3.5 donor.

There's an `01 300M with 107,000 miles on it at the junkyard. It was in a front end collision, however they started it up for me and it seemed to run well. Compression test showed all six cylinders at 100 psi.

I have tog o back with my check list and make sure everything on the list is good, but I'm cautiously optimistic about it. It's cost $900.

Just to clarify, they're willing to include the brain, do I not need it? Or would it be good to just get it to be safe?

BK R/T
04-15-2009, 01:09 PM
Hey ppls how yall doin. Here's the thing. I currently own a 2000 Intrepid R/T. With the 3.5L Magnum HO setup, whole nine yards. But unfortunately some idiot hit me in the fendor pretty hard. Some body shops r tellin me its not worth fixing or its gonna b too expensive. I've had too much fun driving this car, and not about to jus junk it, not when the engine and tranny is in perfect workin condition. So here i am looking for swap shops. I can EASILY get another intrepid for 700 easy. so all i need is a spot in the new york area that can do it for me... and help. Here's some pictures.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00117.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00120.jpg

AND HERE'S THE ACCIDENT PIX
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00192.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00214.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00221.jpg

heres a close up
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p305/princerick/IMG00036.jpg


SOMEBODY PLZZ HELP.

Kimura
04-15-2009, 01:51 PM
Pssh, I'd fix what you have. But then I'm crazy like that, and refuse to conform to the "throw away" mentality of our society.

Our other car, a Geo Prizm, was rear ended by a moving truck and declared a total loss. So what did I do? Fixed it of course!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Picture023-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Prizmandleaves090.jpg

You can save yourself a lot of mony on teh repairs if you get the body panels you need yourself. I was lucky and got the same color bumper and trunk, so even though the car hasn't been repainted yet, the damage is hardly noticeable.

Cost me about $600 to have them do the repairs and $200 for the parts (bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, energy absorber, trunk, and tail light).

You're would probably cost more, but if it's repairable I say go for it. Don't let it end up being crushed and turned into a Camry.

BK R/T
04-15-2009, 04:50 PM
Pssh, I'd fix what you have. But then I'm crazy like that, and refuse to conform to the "throw away" mentality of our society.

Our other car, a Geo Prizm, was rear ended by a moving truck and declared a total loss. So what did I do? Fixed it of course!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Picture023-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Prizmandleaves090.jpg

You can save yourself a lot of mony on teh repairs if you get the body panels you need yourself. I was lucky and got the same color bumper and trunk, so even though the car hasn't been repainted yet, the damage is hardly noticeable.

Cost me about $600 to have them do the repairs and $200 for the parts (bumper cover, bumper reinforcement, energy absorber, trunk, and tail light).

You're would probably cost more, but if it's repairable I say go for it. Don't let it end up being crushed and turned into a Camry.

Yea I def don't want them to crush my baby. And I got some sites that sell parts like partstrain and another site that escapes me at the moment. But if u guys have any others, more wouldn't hurt. But I still need a spot that can do it for me. I don't have the tools or the experience to do my car's own bodywork. Anybody know of any in the NY area? Thanx in advance

Kimura
04-15-2009, 06:28 PM
I don't, but just shop around and bring photos. Check their prices and quality of work.Also, if you can find body panels of the same color at the junkyard, yo won't have to worry about repainting the car if you want to save that for later. Fir better or for worse (better in your case) there are plenty of Intrepids in the junkyards...so you have a decent chance of finding one the same color as yours.

BK R/T
04-16-2009, 04:25 PM
I don't, but just shop around and bring photos. Check their prices and quality of work.Also, if you can find body panels of the same color at the junkyard, yo won't have to worry about repainting the car if you want to save that for later. Fir better or for worse (better in your case) there are plenty of Intrepids in the junkyards...so you have a decent chance of finding one the same color as yours.

alright man, thanx... ill look around.

Kimura
04-22-2009, 01:04 PM
While I've got the engine. :D

Just need to get the truck to go get it Friday morning.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine2.jpg

Daytrepper
04-22-2009, 10:39 PM
While I've got the engine. :D

Just need to get the truck to go get it Friday morning.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/engine2.jpg

Looks good!! Looks pretty complete!

Kimura
04-22-2009, 11:55 PM
Yep, I made it pretty clear to them I wanted everything. There's a few things they forgot to take out....power steering reservoir, a/c lines (even though I disconnected them), and motor mount brackets...which I reminded them I wanted.

When I left they got me the brackets and were sitting on top of teh engine, the other parts should be with it on Friday.

I looked it over carefully and it looks like the only damage was to that one pulley. The timing cover looks good, the engine looks good all around. I was watching them take out other engines and they seemed pretty careful with them...so hopefully that bodes well for how mine was taken out.

Pipes and stuff look good too.

I do have a question.

Can I use a radiator out of a 3.2? Is it the same? They have a couple in the yard but I'm not sure if they have any with the other two 300Ms in the yard. The radiator on the one my engine came out of was damaged in the wreck.

Daytrepper
04-23-2009, 03:17 AM
Yep, I made it pretty clear to them I wanted everything. There's a few things they forgot to take out....power steering reservoir, a/c lines (even though I disconnected them), and motor mount brackets...which I reminded them I wanted.

When I left they got me the brackets and were sitting on top of teh engine, the other parts should be with it on Friday.

I looked it over carefully and it looks like the only damage was to that one pulley. The timing cover looks good, the engine looks good all around. I was watching them take out other engines and they seemed pretty careful with them...so hopefully that bodes well for how mine was taken out.

Pipes and stuff look good too.

I do have a question.

Can I use a radiator out of a 3.2? Is it the same? They have a couple in the yard but I'm not sure if they have any with the other two 300Ms in the yard. The radiator on the one my engine came out of was damaged in the wreck.

Good deal.

Yes, you can use a 3.2 radiator, is identical. Or, you can use the 2.7 radiator and eliminate the oil cooler on the 3.2/5 you install. Just make sure you check the 2.7 radiator over and see that it is in good condition.

Kimura
04-24-2009, 02:29 PM
And here it is at the shop:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/GMCCanyon2.jpg

I made sure it was well tie down and padded, and drove it carefully back from the junkyard. I'm lucky my mechanic friend let me borrow his truck!

It also looks like I'll get to help do the work to...which is cool. That means I'll have a greater feeling of accomplishment when all is set and done.

onecatnodog
04-26-2009, 06:32 PM
Daytriper! You state that the Intrepid with the 2.7 has 3.89 gears in it from the Factory.. My Prowler from the Factory has 3.56 gears.. Same trans, I would think that a gear swap would be in the making for me if this is true...:rck: What Say You!? What about the speedo being off? What about the computer that monitors the trans on the car? Just some Sunday questions for ya... onecatnodog

Daytrepper
04-27-2009, 02:18 AM
Daytriper! You state that the Intrepid with the 2.7 has 3.89 gears in it from the Factory.. My Prowler from the Factory has 3.56 gears.. Same trans, I would think that a gear swap would be in the making for me if this is true...:rck: What Say You!? What about the speedo being off? What about the computer that monitors the trans on the car? Just some Sunday questions for ya... onecatnodog

Yessir, the 2.7 equipped trannies came with the 3.89 gears. The 3.2/3.5 engines were 3.66 stock.

Absolutely swap the 2.7 3.89 gears into your prowler. Less than $100 for the set from the dealer, and worth it!! It does wonders for the Intrepids, should be just as good if not better for the Prowler!!

onecatnodog
04-27-2009, 11:23 AM
Thanks, Daytripper:worthy: Love to learn, now that I'm older...:teacher: What about the SPEEDO? Prowlers have a brain box in the back that works the trans.... onecatnodog

Daytrepper
04-28-2009, 12:16 AM
Thanks, Daytripper:worthy: Love to learn, now that I'm older...:teacher: What about the SPEEDO? Prowlers have a brain box in the back that works the trans.... onecatnodog

Speedo will be off a few MPH. Our solution for that in the intrepids was to swap in a 2.7 TCM that had the programming for the 3.89 gears. Not sure this is possible with the prowler, but I wouldnt be surprised if they used the same TCM's that the intrepids use.

Kimura
04-29-2009, 01:36 AM
Haven't started the swap yet. Still waiting for a free bay. I think we'll do the timing belt and waterpump while the engine is out.

I have a separate question though. I've been dealing with occasional stalling issues for some time now. Replacing the crankshaft sensor did help for a time, but it came back. Is it the result of the timing chins being loose?

Tonight I was driving to the store, about 6 miles away and was coasting downhill going about 35 mph. I glanced down at the tach and noticed it was at 700rpm. I have it some gas and it resumed coasting and it went back to 1500 or so rpm (where it normally is at that speed). Any idea what that was all about?

mayhemiwa
06-22-2009, 11:07 PM
i have 91,xxx miles right now i wanted to do and engine swap on my car the 2.7 engine had sludge in it until i had the engine flushed and there is not as much sludge in the engine but i wanted to do the timing chain and water pump but it cost to much but i would rather have a 3.5 HO in it but how long does it take to do a complete engine swap and how much would it cost to have this done

padl8697
07-28-2009, 09:17 PM
Hi I did the swap and the car I put the 3.5 in had a power steering pressure sensor. The 3.5 harness didn't have a plug built into the harness to plug into the sensor. Now I get a chk. eng. light and the only code is p.s. press. code. Can you tell what I need to do to keep this light off. I have the plug I can cut off the 2.7 harness.
Thanks!

Daytrepper
07-29-2009, 07:02 AM
Hi I did the swap and the car I put the 3.5 in had a power steering pressure sensor. The 3.5 harness didn't have a plug built into the harness to plug into the sensor. Now I get a chk. eng. light and the only code is p.s. press. code. Can you tell what I need to do to keep this light off. I have the plug I can cut off the 2.7 harness.
Thanks!

Here you go:

1. Locate your two main engine harness connectors at the left front of the engine, to the rear of the alternator.
2. Unplug the smaller connector, which is the furthest one back.
3. On the vehicle side of the harness, cut away the electrical tape on the back of the plug and unsnap the cover.
4. There will be a light-blue wire with a green stripe on it in the bottom right corner of the plug. This is the power steering switch wire.
5. Cut the wire about 1 inch from where it mounts into the plug.
6. Attach a 12" piece of 14 gauge wire to the one you just cut with a butt connector.
7. Locate the engine harness ground bolt on the drivers side cylinder head, about half way back. There will be several wires grounding here already.
8. Using an eye terminal, connect your jumper wire to the ground bolt, grounding the p/s switch circuit, and fooling the computer into thinking you have a p/s signal.
9. Clear the codes.

**Solder all connections!

Daytrepper
07-29-2009, 07:03 AM
i have 91,xxx miles right now i wanted to do and engine swap on my car the 2.7 engine had sludge in it until i had the engine flushed and there is not as much sludge in the engine but i wanted to do the timing chain and water pump but it cost to much but i would rather have a 3.5 HO in it but how long does it take to do a complete engine swap and how much would it cost to have this done

Takes about 14-18 hours for the average mechanic. I usually get them done for around $2500, it may be more at a shop.

Kimura
08-02-2009, 11:06 AM
I suppose I should post...

Instead of replacing the timing chains on the 2.7I went for a 3.5 HO out of a 2000 300M. The swap itself went very well, the only hitch was a bad radiator that got oil in the coolant. Really sucked, but after cleaning it out and putting my 2.7's radiator back in, all is well.

Few smaller issues are a compressor which is bad, a plenum that was cracked (already replaced) and an exhaust leak. So I just need to get that leak taken care of and I will consider it done. Engine runs great!

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/002.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/027.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/004-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/001.jpg

My replacement plenum, which I painted:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/003-2.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/hanyou_kimura/Intrepid/030.jpg

mayhemiwa
08-03-2009, 05:26 PM
i called around for the engine swap i have a mechanic shop that does it for about 2800 so it will be done soon i am just waiting for the right time and just being focus on what needs to be done

padl8697
08-06-2009, 09:18 PM
Thanks! Daytrepper for the info. on the p.s. pressure switch. I have a water leak thats imitates an leaking freeze plug on the back of the engine. Could the pipe leaking under the intake run down the engine and leak out of the dust cover on the transmission. I have searched everywhere I can and I can't find any water on the outside of the engine.

Thanks!
padl8697

mellomike
08-08-2009, 06:06 AM
i found a 1998 lhs with a 3.5 i have a 2002 concorde 2.7 i wanted to know if i bought the motor and the tranny would they match up to the frame. if the frame matches what else should i get besides the wiring hornest everything on the motor is included. i can get the motor and transmission for 500 dollars would i need the computer from the lhs

hellloooooooooooo anybody out there here goes again i have a 02 concorde (2.7) i got a friend who just wrecked his 2000 chrysler 300m with the 3.5 ho motor will the motor and transmission fit on my frame and what else would i need off of his car. he is parting out the car and i can get the motor and tranny for 500 dollars but hate to get it if its not going to fit

Daytrepper
08-20-2009, 03:47 AM
Thanks! Daytrepper for the info. on the p.s. pressure switch. I have a water leak thats imitates an leaking freeze plug on the back of the engine. Could the pipe leaking under the intake run down the engine and leak out of the dust cover on the transmission. I have searched everywhere I can and I can't find any water on the outside of the engine.

Thanks!
padl8697

Yep, there's a little O-ring where that pipe curves up and meets the lower intake manifold...near the front of the engine. It is not uncommon for it to leak.

Daytrepper
08-20-2009, 03:50 AM
hellloooooooooooo anybody out there here goes again i have a 02 concorde (2.7) i got a friend who just wrecked his 2000 chrysler 300m with the 3.5 ho motor will the motor and transmission fit on my frame and what else would i need off of his car. he is parting out the car and i can get the motor and tranny for 500 dollars but hate to get it if its not going to fit

It will, but there is a ton of stuff you have to change due to the electronics changes starting with 02+ model year.

You'd basically have to find a complete 2002 3.5L core engine to rob parts off of. You'd need engine harness, alternator, upper plenum w/throttle body, egr block off hardware, left cam sprocket, flywheel (that can come from your 2.7), and air intake elbow with IAT sensor. All that stuff from an 02 3.5L would have to go on the 2000 3.5L to make it usable in your 02 2.7L car.

Your easiest route is to use a 2002-2004 3.5L engine...as you would have to do none of the above, just the normal engine swap procedure. But for $500 you may want to look into getting those parts above, as it may still be cheaper doing it that way.

xR1pp3Rx
08-20-2009, 09:08 AM
um the one i think you are looking for is ont the side of the tranny
and if it dont fit you will have to buy the same style from the parts store. good luck !

1970440RT
09-02-2009, 07:39 AM
I just completed a 02 2.7 to 3.5 swap that I thought was going well until this problem manifested itself.

When I try to start the car, I get a short burst ( 2/10 of a second ) from the starter then nothing. Even if I hold the key all the way to the forward position, no crank at all until I return the key to the off position then go to restart then another small burst from the starter. This small crank is not enough to turn the motor one revolution.

Timeline of events:
1. completed swap, test fired engine with old battery that was in the car, got short bursts from starter.
2. changed battery with known good but used battery. Car fired & engine ran on jackstands. Finished putting everything together- radiator, front clip, cowl, pwer steering etc.
3. Took completed car for a 2 mile test drive and parked it while I cleaned up my tools. After 2 hours of sitting, went to put car in garage and just got one short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
4. New battery, starter cable & starter put in car. Car cranked & fired on jackstands. Put back together & lowered car & tried to start. Again I get a short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
5. So far I have checked: ignition switch, grounds, wiring, starter, starter relay, asd relay, starter connections all to no avail. I did not change PCM's , the 3.5 is running off the 2.7 computer. When the car did run, it ran beautifully, no miss, no rough idle.

Any suggestions on what to look for? After scouring the internet, I can't find anyone else with this problem.

Daytrepper
09-04-2009, 01:28 AM
I just completed a 02 2.7 to 3.5 swap that I thought was going well until this problem manifested itself.

When I try to start the car, I get a short burst ( 2/10 of a second ) from the starter then nothing. Even if I hold the key all the way to the forward position, no crank at all until I return the key to the off position then go to restart then another small burst from the starter. This small crank is not enough to turn the motor one revolution.

Timeline of events:
1. completed swap, test fired engine with old battery that was in the car, got short bursts from starter.
2. changed battery with known good but used battery. Car fired & engine ran on jackstands. Finished putting everything together- radiator, front clip, cowl, pwer steering etc.
3. Took completed car for a 2 mile test drive and parked it while I cleaned up my tools. After 2 hours of sitting, went to put car in garage and just got one short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
4. New battery, starter cable & starter put in car. Car cranked & fired on jackstands. Put back together & lowered car & tried to start. Again I get a short burst from the starter with each turn of the key.
5. So far I have checked: ignition switch, grounds, wiring, starter, starter relay, asd relay, starter connections all to no avail. I did not change PCM's , the 3.5 is running off the 2.7 computer. When the car did run, it ran beautifully, no miss, no rough idle.

Any suggestions on what to look for? After scouring the internet, I can't find anyone else with this problem.

Do you have a black, grey, or metal key...and did the car run fine with the same key you are using now, before you replaced the engine?

1970440RT
09-04-2009, 07:12 AM
Do you have a black, grey, or metal key...and did the car run fine with the same key you are using now, before you replaced the engine?


Dan, I have 2 black keys for the car. The car turned over with the 2.7 in it on multiple occasions ( before I yanked the 2.7 ). The car never "ran" because when I bought it, the 2.7 was already blown up- but would still turn over. The only problem I seem to have with the keys is they barely open the trunk, I have to shimmy the key pretty good to get the tumbler to turn.

The puzzling part, to me, is that I have driven this car already for 2-3 miles and started it at least 4 times! Each time I test start it and get it running then shut it off, it seems the problem comes back the next time I try to start the car.

I have tried 3 batteries ( of which two are known good ). I checked, cleaned & or replaced all grounds & positive leads that I can find. As far as I know this PCM & BCM are original to this car.

The short bursts from the starter are consistent each time, I get about 2/10 of a second of strong cranking and then it is like something cuts power to the starter. I was going to try a 12 volt lead to the solenoid wire, bypassing the harness to see if I can get it going.

What say you?

Thanks for your help - Terry

1970440RT
09-07-2009, 08:25 AM
I have made some progress. Seeing as how I do not have the sentry key (grey), I can rule out an anti theft mode.

I put 12 volts to the solenoid wire and the starter will turn consistently. I can turn the key to the "run" position and start the car with a seperate independent solenid wire supplying 12 volts to the starter. I can drive the car like this.

I have switched starter relays and shimmied the shifter while cranking to try & rule out the neutral safety switch. I have traced the wires through the harnesses to rule out breaks or pinches in the wires.

When I take the starter relay out, I can jump across the two terminals & supply voltage to the solenoid lead and turn the starter. I have 12.5 volts at the ignition lead terminal. When I hook everything back up and the ignition circuit sees a load, then the 12.5 volts goes to zero after a split second.

I think I have the same problem as the thread by jpost3095 ( cant insert link ) from the end of July. He did not post finding a solution.

Any suggestions where to go next?

Lead Slinger
09-07-2009, 02:13 PM
Hello all, I've found a bunch of good information here, but I was wondering if anyone had any information on doing a driveline swap.

CURRENT SITUATION:
I've got a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 in her. The engines a little wonky and I'd like to swap it. I also have a 2001 Intrepid with a 3.2 (so easy wiring hookup, etc). It was lightly rolled, but the engine and transmission are fine. I'd like to perform a swap, but rather than just an engine swap I'd also like to do the transmission. I think the hookups would be easier.

QUESTIONS

1. Would swapping both be easier than swapping both individually? I don't care about the better gearing--I just want the simplest solution. Keep in mind I have no problems cutting the 2001 Intrepid up. The acetylene torch is just itching to go. Or is just swapping the engine the easiest option?

2. Has anyone here ever done this? Experiences or links would be appreciated.

3. Are there any "tricks" to make the swap go easier/faster? All would be great. I've got a full "farm" shop so tools, elbow-grease, and plenty of cuss words are ready to go ;)

Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

1970440RT
09-08-2009, 07:59 PM
I think putting the motor and trans would be more work for sure.

Changing the motor by itself was relatively easy. I'd do the trans if there were a huge mileage difference.

It was easiest for me to remove the cowl assy.,front facia and rad support - only a few bolts and gives you a ton of room.

1970440RT
09-08-2009, 08:03 PM
I have made some progress. Seeing as how I do not have the sentry key (grey), I can rule out an anti theft mode.

I put 12 volts to the solenoid wire and the starter will turn consistently. I can turn the key to the "run" position and start the car with a seperate independent solenid wire supplying 12 volts to the starter. I can drive the car like this.

I have switched starter relays and shimmied the shifter while cranking to try & rule out the neutral safety switch. I have traced the wires through the harnesses to rule out breaks or pinches in the wires.

When I take the starter relay out, I can jump across the two terminals & supply voltage to the solenoid lead and turn the starter. I have 12.5 volts at the ignition lead terminal. When I hook everything back up and the ignition circuit sees a load, then the 12.5 volts goes to zero after a split second.

I think I have the same problem as the thread by jpost3095 ( cant insert link ) from the end of July. He did not post finding a solution.

Any suggestions where to go next?

Well, I replaced the ignition module and the problem is still there. I'm out of ideas.

I'm now going to wire the starter to a push button switch on the dash as the car runs normal except for the starting issue.

1970440RT
09-09-2009, 09:03 PM
Well, I replaced the ignition module and the problem is still there. I'm out of ideas.

I'm now going to wire the starter to a push button switch on the dash as the car runs normal except for the starting issue.

I went to get the car inspected and on the way I noticed the speedo wasn't working. I'm now getting a trans code of P0706 and PCM code of P0501. The trans code is for the range sensor and the 0501 is for the speedo not working. Of course I can't get the inspection sticker with the MIL on.

I swapped out the speed sensors and checked the trans harness just in case but to no avail. I'm going to take it to a trans shop for the range sensor because it is internal, unless someone here tells me it is easy and I can do it myself. :D

1970440RT
09-16-2009, 05:10 PM
Well, got the range sensor replaced. NO CHANGE.

The last thing to swap is the harness or computer. I have a good trans harness, the hard part is getting the old one out.

Does anyone know if I will have a problem swapping two non skm computers (both black keys)?

I hope that the PCM VIN not matching the BCM won't screw something up. I'll wait and hopefully someone will chime in. I'll have my hands full with the trans harness anyway...

blankman999
09-27-2009, 11:42 AM
i have done the swap,98 2.7 to 2000 3.5,cam sensor keeps burnin out and car wont start,unhook yellow wire it starts and runs but no power,wire shows its hot and grounded,any help would be great

padl8697
09-27-2009, 04:49 PM
Does anybody know what year they changed the intake pipe under the 3.5 intake and started using the pipe with the two bolt flange to prevent the pipe from leaking. I think it was 2001 but I'm not for sure.

1970440RT
09-28-2009, 06:58 AM
Just to bring some closure to my swap issues,

I swapped trans harnesses and BCM and it did not fix anything.

I swapped PCM's ( both non skim ) and I now have a working speedo!!

I still am unable to get the car to crank with the key and the PNRD display still shows boxes around all the characters when it is in park & neutral but no more MIL. I just got the car inspected and will live with the starting problem.

Thanks to all that helped.

bunkhbandit
09-28-2009, 05:31 PM
HI
First and foremost the help in here is unreal yep have the 2.7 blues alsoand know i should be putting in a 3.2 or 3.5 from a 98 - 01 but with my luck up here in northern Canada i wasn t able to
So now i have a line on a 2002 complete car running sounds awsome with about the same mileage can i do the swap remember i have both cars was thinking of droping out every thing including the struts out of both cars and just rebolting every thing back in can take every thing rite back to the exhaust

question is will it work and what else do i have to look at changing eg the computors etc .... the key in the 2002 isn t coded its like the 98 key

blankman999
10-11-2009, 01:46 PM
anyone have a wiring diagram 2000 3.5 intrepid?

Daytrepper
10-15-2009, 12:36 AM
Just to bring some closure to my swap issues,

I swapped trans harnesses and BCM and it did not fix anything.

I swapped PCM's ( both non skim ) and I now have a working speedo!!

I still am unable to get the car to crank with the key and the PNRD display still shows boxes around all the characters when it is in park & neutral but no more MIL. I just got the car inspected and will live with the starting problem.

Thanks to all that helped.

Has the transmission or TCM (98-01) been changed?

Sounds exactly like a bad, or wrong transmission harness. I ran into this problem on a couple transmission swaps.

Daytrepper
10-15-2009, 12:39 AM
Hello all, I've found a bunch of good information here, but I was wondering if anyone had any information on doing a driveline swap.

CURRENT SITUATION:
I've got a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 in her. The engines a little wonky and I'd like to swap it. I also have a 2001 Intrepid with a 3.2 (so easy wiring hookup, etc). It was lightly rolled, but the engine and transmission are fine. I'd like to perform a swap, but rather than just an engine swap I'd also like to do the transmission. I think the hookups would be easier.

QUESTIONS

1. Would swapping both be easier than swapping both individually? I don't care about the better gearing--I just want the simplest solution. Keep in mind I have no problems cutting the 2001 Intrepid up. The acetylene torch is just itching to go. Or is just swapping the engine the easiest option?

2. Has anyone here ever done this? Experiences or links would be appreciated.

3. Are there any "tricks" to make the swap go easier/faster? All would be great. I've got a full "farm" shop so tools, elbow-grease, and plenty of cuss words are ready to go ;)

Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!


It is about the same to swap the trans with the engine, or leave it in the car. You either have to separate the engine/trans, or pull the cv shafts/trans mount, etc.

I have swapped engine/trans together before, I only usually do it if the car has more than 125,000 miles when doing the engine.

Daytrepper
10-15-2009, 12:42 AM
HI
First and foremost the help in here is unreal yep have the 2.7 blues alsoand know i should be putting in a 3.2 or 3.5 from a 98 - 01 but with my luck up here in northern Canada i wasn t able to
So now i have a line on a 2002 complete car running sounds awsome with about the same mileage can i do the swap remember i have both cars was thinking of droping out every thing including the struts out of both cars and just rebolting every thing back in can take every thing rite back to the exhaust

question is will it work and what else do i have to look at changing eg the computors etc .... the key in the 2002 isn t coded its like the 98 key

It is a bit of extra work to make the 2002 engine run in a 1998. You could get all the 98 parts needed, which would be flywheel, plenum, engine harness, egr valve, left cam sprocket, vacuum reservoir, and alternator, and swap them onto the 2002 engine, or, you could take ALL the wiring and electronics out of the 02 car and install it in the 98...a ton of work that way....but possible, and leaves you open for many upgrades.

devasious
10-16-2009, 05:13 AM
bought 94 jeep grand cherokee with bad engine and no trans . had a ragedy 93 that had a good running engine and trans in it. swapped both engine and trans to the 94 didnt get the ecm from 93 used the 94 ecm does that matter .the 93 wasnt a grand cherokee it was a jeep cherokee . this grand cherokee has security system on it .this jeep has no power going anywhere but to the interior lights and certain other lamps ..

pkopca
10-17-2009, 12:52 AM
I am looking for directions and diagrams for converting a 99 intrepid from a 2.7 to 3.5 HO. I have a donor car of the same year and the 2.7 already removed. I am trying to install with minimal complications as those described above. Daytrepper you appear tohave already accomplished this multiple times and your input would be appreciated. Thanks all.

blankman999
10-19-2009, 02:35 PM
anyone know where to get a wiring harness for 2000 intrepid fairly cheap,dealer was $1000

leeangelo
10-19-2009, 06:24 PM
Hey man I'm hoping you can help me with this. My car is currently in the shop because of my power steering making loud noise and making this grinding noise when I turn the wheel. The mechanic told me that I needed to replace the pressure hose which attaches to the power steering pump and the high pressure line. We'll he told me that the pressure hose is suppose to have a sort of o ring or seal on the pressure hose which then connects to the high pressure line. I was told by a parts dealer that there is no such seal or o ring on that side of the pressure hose, which is made of metal if that helps. So my question is (sorry for typing so much) is this seal or o ring located on the high pressure line instead? I'm in worse shape than I began, another supposed mechanic ****ed up my car even more than it originally was. I was just suppose to change the power steering pump and be done with this.

pkopca
10-19-2009, 09:47 PM
There is alo of information on this webpage and I think there are several postings if you take your time to navigate. I am pretty sure you can locate your answer and if not I think a moderator can give you great advice.:cool:

pkopca
10-19-2009, 09:52 PM
anyone know where to get a wiring harness for 2000 intrepid fairly cheap,dealer was $1000

scheckleman@msn.com helped me out with a motor and I am pretty sure he can fix you up.:gr_patrio

blankman999
10-20-2009, 07:06 AM
email is no good

leeangelo
01-09-2010, 05:09 AM
Hello day trep I think you send me a copy of the 2.7 to 3.2 and 3.5 conversion manual a long time ago. My computer hard drive was whipped out and I don't have a copy of that manual anymore, can you please email me a copy at

kailuaangelo@aol.com Thank you so much.

also I had a question for you. I was planning on buying a 2001 chyrsler LHS for about 1500 to 2000. I wanted to know can I use all of those parts besides the 3.5 engine in it to connect to my intrepid such as the throttle, a.c lines etc which are required to be changed when going from the 2.7 to the 3.5. Since the intrepid and LHS are of the LHS platform I was wondering if they share the same parts as well.

pkopca
01-11-2010, 09:41 AM
That was the email on the card. 715-255-8247 is the shop number

madatmy2.7
02-16-2010, 08:10 PM
:help:I have a 98 Concord with a bad 2.7 and was wondering if I should swap the tranny at the same time (the one in my car now is not bad). Im not sure if it is any easier or any more advantages to swap both out at the same time.

Any in-put would be very helpfull.:teacher:

PredatoryKey
03-05-2010, 06:59 AM
I have the 2.7L and it recently began knocking and leaking oil. took it to the shop and when they replaced the oil system, they found metal bearing shavings covering the bottom 1/4" of the pan and the knocking has gotten worse. So needless to say, I'm going to get rid of it.

Like a few others, if im going to spend the money, Im getting the 3.5L. My Intrepid is a 2001 SE. So my questions are these:

1) Where is a good place to find one around Atlanta, GA or online
2) Could I get the 3.5LHO and it still be "plug and play," or am I stuck with the regular 3.5L?
3) What is the usual TOTAL cost if I were to have a mechanic do the work for me? (Engine, parts, labor, etc....)
4) Anyone near the Atlanta, GA area that might want to help me swap the engine instead of having a shop do it? I love to learn and I'd pay for food:thatfunny:worthy::help:

@Daytrepper - The link for that step-by-step guide of yours said that it was no longer available. Could you give me an up to date link or email it to me?

John.Brown01@live.com

THANKS!!!

minivanguy
03-05-2010, 07:21 AM
1. www.car-part.com , local paper, Craigslist, dealer auction, salvage auction, junkyard, etc.
2. why not just get an HO car and drive that using your car for a parts car?
3. IMPOSSIBLE to for say what someone else's TOTAL charges would be. I would do the whole job with motor for $1000 TOTAL cost
4. sorry not me.

PredatoryKey
03-05-2010, 08:27 AM
1) Thanks for the info
2) I simply don't have the money or the ability to get another vehicle....I only have about $2000 to my name....
3) So that $1000 would be for both the engine AND the labor?? SWEET. Where are you located??
4) Its cool

minivanguy
03-05-2010, 08:35 AM
1) no prob
2) watch for an intrepid with a bad trans or wrecked. I buy wrecked intrepids for under $500, pull the motor, install in customer cars for $1000 (motor and labor), sell off other parts, sell off cats, battery, tires, junk what's left over... generally pull off nice profit
3) 1000 miles away.

PredatoryKey
03-05-2010, 10:55 AM
HAHAH. Then I'm going to say that it's a no go. I doubt my Intrepid could make a 1000 mile trip and Id probably use up more money in gas. lol

eldin18
03-11-2010, 03:38 PM
Hey everyone im new to this site im lookin into the process of swapping out my 2.7 for the 3.5 engine since my 2.7 knocks like someone is beating the engine with a hammer lol, can someone tell me from what cars can i remove the 3.5 that will bolt right up and plug right in?

minivanguy
03-11-2010, 04:46 PM
bolts right in but doesn't just plug right in. The best thing I ever did was junk my 2.7 Intrepid and bought a $150 toyota corolla. 3 years and 50,000 miles later, that toyota hasn't cost me a penny in repairs

eldin18
03-12-2010, 12:22 PM
what all will i need to do for it to plug in, and what doesnt plug right in?

minivanguy
03-12-2010, 02:24 PM
change wire harness. need correct computer, need correct exhaust and stuff like that. it would be cheaper and easier to get a different car. or buy an intrepid with a bad trans or needing body work and fix that using your car for parts. I did the smartest thing... junked my 2.7 intrepid and bought a $150 toyota. 3 years no repairs what so ever and better gas mileage.

Daytrepper
03-12-2010, 09:09 PM
change wire harness. need correct computer, need correct exhaust and stuff like that. it would be cheaper and easier to get a different car. or buy an intrepid with a bad trans or needing body work and fix that using your car for parts. I did the smartest thing... junked my 2.7 intrepid and bought a $150 toyota. 3 years no repairs what so ever and better gas mileage.

Wire harness doesnt have to be changed, nor does the computer. Its not that difficult, really. As long as you have a 3.2/3.5 with a good engine harness on it, that is complete with all accessories it will plug right into your vehicle harness, where the 2.7's engine harness plugged in. The engine will run perfectly on the 2.7 computer, thanks to them being adaptable. Other than that, it is all parts swapping, basically hoses, belts, throttle cables, and the air intake pipe. I have done over 200 of these, got em down to a science. I have a book on ebay that details the entire process start to finish.

Exhaust requires a simple modification to the right (passenger) pipe, which can be done easily with a welder and cut off saw while the engine is out, or can be done cheaply at an exhaust shop at the same time.

Done yourself, you can do this for less than $1500 if you shop around, and dont mind going to the u-pull a few times, or you can buy the parts new from Dodge if you desire. I recommend that route if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, it will save you in the long run. You wont get a good, reliable used car that doesnt need work for that price, most of the time.

MoparIan509
05-10-2010, 05:47 PM
I am new to this forum, but have read a few of the threads before deciding to to the 2.7 to 3.2 conversion.
SO HERE IS MY ISSUE....
The 3.2 that I bought did not have the motor mount brackets on it. Does anyone know where to get these? I have called the dealership to find out the left side bracket is discontinued and not available.

MoparIan509
05-10-2010, 06:10 PM
I know this is an old post, but have a harness from a 2000 intrepid. It is the original off the car as the new motor came with an intact harness.

MoparIan509
05-12-2010, 11:38 AM
I am new to this forum, but have read a few of the threads before deciding to to the 2.7 to 3.2 conversion.
SO HERE IS MY ISSUE....
The 3.2 that I bought did not have the motor mount brackets on it. Does anyone know where to get these? I have called the dealership to find out the left side bracket is discontinued and not available.

I found one 3.2 car at a local pull yard and got some of the stuff I needed (like the engine mount brackets, air box, trans tube). Now for the radiator. Will any 3.2/3.5 radiator work, or must it be within that year range also?

MoparIan509
05-13-2010, 01:07 PM
Thid thread must be dead, huh?

kawikzguy
05-14-2010, 10:56 PM
nope

kawikzguy
05-15-2010, 01:52 PM
Disregard this message, i have to have at least 5 posts to post my pics of my swap for you. :)

kawikzguy
05-15-2010, 01:57 PM
disregard this one too

kawikzguy
05-15-2010, 01:58 PM
and this one

kawikzguy
05-15-2010, 01:59 PM
i think this is the last one

kawikzguy
05-15-2010, 01:59 PM
Hello everyone, my name is Adam. I have been talking to Daytrepper about my plans for my 2.7 transplant. I ended up purchasing his manual, which came in very handy for torque specs and part numbers. Well my story starts like this. A friend of mine had a 2002 Dodge Intrepid that had a 2.7 and he beat the piss out of it and ran her dry on oil. Ended up developing a knock and I diagnosed it as something in the head. I ended up tearing apart the 2.7 and replacing the lifters. That didnt help. It quieted down alot but there was still a knock. I ended up only charging him for parts. He took it home and parked it. He put it on craigslist for $1000 and i ended up offering him $500 for it and he took it. so as I was driving it back to my shop i babied it till i got to the street my shop was on. I floored it to try and pop her and sure enough. BOOM!

I pulled the 2.7 and found out that the knock was from the lower end. The knock was from a broken piston. the damage i did was alot worse, i ended up breaking 2 connecting rods and shattering a piston. Oh well it was over for that 2.7 anyways.

I ended up finding a 2002 chrysler 300m Special in Sedelia MO. I bought the whole car for $700. it was in a rear end collision and was titled "JUNK" the motor has 80k and my intrepid has 71k so thats not to big of a difference. I ended up picking it up and takin her home to Omaha, NE. So the total spent so far is $1200.

I got the special pulled and got to replacing things that daytrepper recommended. Timing belt, water pump, oilpan gasket, plugs and changed the oil. got all that done and started the transplant. Everything went smooth. the only thing i would concider a "problem" with the swap would be that the dowels on the motor and tranny were still intact on both my 2.7 tranny and the 3.5 engine so i had to do some surgery. ended up making it so that it would join. Got it in and everything connected. doing exactly what Daytrepper's manual said about the oil pressure. ended up firing her up for a start and it didnt even hesitate, just 1 second on the starter and she fired right up. She runs really good and i added seafoam to crank and gas. planning on changing the oil after 1k miles just to make sure she is cleaned out.

So enough talkin, check out the pix.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/swap1.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00069-20100508-2324.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00063-20100504-2358.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00059-20100504-2316.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00058-20100504-2312.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00055-20100504-2154.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/27.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/27piston.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/27block.jpg

I have more pictures but im waiting for my phone to email them to my computer. ill post them as soon as they are done. If you have any questions about my swap please email me or PM me. thanks. Kawikzguy@gmail.com

kawikzguy
05-16-2010, 01:49 PM
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00070-20100510-1553.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00074-20100510-2002.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00075-20100510-2002.jpg
I need help finding the part below. my parts car didnt come with it. i cannot find it anywhere, no dealer has it, parts store does not either. does anyone have an extra layin around? i know its like a little ball end bar that opens and closes the butterfly valve in the plenum but i cannot find one anywhere!?!?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d166/ka24de4me/IMG00068-20100508-2324.jpg

bandv
05-16-2010, 07:32 PM
I have swapped a the 2.7 for a 3.5 HO and now the car runs but doesn't want to idle. I've only had one code pop up P0300 which is multiple cylinder misfire. Then i hooked my tm2500 snap-on computer and looked under pending codes and P0175 which said bank 2 has a rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally lean correction factor, and every once and a while it would lose communication,but my cartridges are only good through 1999 so i had to go under generic, don't know if this has anything to do with it. I have never worked on a dodge or vehicle this new 2002, so i don't know if a sensor could cause this. I've checked the coils, MAP sensor, IAC valve, Throttle position sensor, O2 sensors, i did take one out of the 2.7, intake manifold tuning system, and were all good. i have an electic short runner valve that was out of range on the resistence, i wouldn't think that would affect one side of the motor.

bandv
05-25-2010, 04:54 AM
O you have to change flywheels with this swap because they look different

blankman999
05-25-2010, 07:15 AM
timing was off now its fixed,still runs like shit,shorts bursts of power,would the timing being off then on cause damage?also vacuum hose on passenger side near back of motor has no where to go,where would it plug in at?any help would be great,thanx

blankman999
06-01-2010, 08:14 PM
anyone do the swap and have pics,could use pics of passenger side motor for hoses,got extra hose and extra place for hose,but both suck wont plug in please help

Daytrepper
06-03-2010, 01:22 AM
anyone do the swap and have pics,could use pics of passenger side motor for hoses,got extra hose and extra place for hose,but both suck wont plug in please help

Can you post pictures of which hoses you are referring to?

There are two emissions hoses on the passenger side (all models), and two hoses for the SRV valve and reservoir (98-01 models).

bandv
06-03-2010, 08:46 AM
Have 2002 intrepid that I didn't hook those hoses up would that make it run rich?
Also the flywheels where different will that mess with PCM, crank sensor.

Daytrepper
06-05-2010, 12:13 PM
Have 2002 intrepid that I didn't hook those hoses up would that make it run rich?
Also the flywheels where different will that mess with PCM, crank sensor.

It could cause an open vacuum leak, which would make it run rough.

The flywheels are the same 98-01, and 02-04, on all engines. If you mixed the flywheels, (installed 98 flywheel on 04) the car would never start.

What year 3.5 did you install in the 2002 2.7 car?

bandv
06-05-2010, 01:54 PM
The junkyard said 2002 and it came with 2002 PCM. The flywheels had different slots on the one inch ring, pretty sure it's for the crank sensor. Could you tell me more specifically where these emission hoses are because I see none. The vacumn lines I got hooked up are the brake and the one on top of intake for evap. The car runs but idles rough and doesn't have very much power. Please help I got a lot of money in this project

blankman999
06-06-2010, 04:24 PM
here are the pics

blankman999
06-21-2010, 03:45 PM
any photos of vacuum hoses as to where they go(passenger side)would be very helpful,thanx

Steelie C
06-28-2010, 02:15 PM
have a problem, i swaped me 2.7 "yes!" with a 3.5 it started up afew times then stoped
i then replaced the computer with the 2.7 but now i am having problems with the ing coil fuse (20amp) under the bonnet. can anyone help? i am thinking it's the starter or a sensor? please help

twogenes
07-03-2010, 12:36 AM
Does anyone know if the 3.5 HO will fit a Stratus? I have 135 K miles and no problems with the 2.7 yet. I would like to change to a 3.5 when the time comes. Is it the same transmissiom in the Stratus as the LH platform? Thanks

snodad
07-20-2010, 10:45 PM
Did the swap fine but the flex plate they sent with the engine is bent. Will the plate from the 2.7 work?
Thanks,
Mike:teacher:

Steelie C
07-26-2010, 05:53 PM
i have a intrepid with a 3.5 in it and each time i start the engine it blows the inj. fuse under the hood i have a bad ground i think. i have changed th ekey switch as well as the crank and cam sensor.but fuse still blows

Steelie C
08-07-2010, 02:06 PM
I am not blowing the fuse any more but still no start with the key. had a lock smith come in to check the alarm but said that it was not that type. The engine ran with the 3.5 pcm but the long white fuse on the right of the power dis. box had blown change and still no start NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

blankman999
08-17-2010, 01:46 PM
took it to the dealer,hooked up hoses for me,runs rough,no speedometer,stuck in one gear(not shifting),changed speed censors,didnt help,totally lost please help

blankman999
08-17-2010, 06:37 PM
also burning out the eng st fuse under hood,why?

blankman999
08-19-2010, 06:20 AM
are these threads dead or what?i could really use some help

snodad
08-19-2010, 09:42 AM
Probably a shorted wireing harness. You can try www.******************. Another website that might have more help.

snodad
08-19-2010, 09:45 AM
thats www. dodgeintrepid . net

Steelie C
08-23-2010, 09:38 AM
also burning out the eng st fuse under hood,why?

i change the white long fuse under the hood in the p.d box and my fuse does not blow any more

blankman999
08-23-2010, 02:05 PM
since i swapped from 2.7 to 3.5,the tranny is from 2.7,should i have bought speed censors for 2.7 or 3.5?

WestCoastRednek
01-08-2011, 12:14 PM
I see a lot of Charger engines starting from 2005 on EBay for good prices and they seem to be easier to find than Intrepid engines. Can I put one of these in my 2004 Intrepid to replace the 2.7?

chrysler07
02-01-2011, 11:02 PM
Can anybody email me the swap manual for the 2.7 to the 3.2/3.5

TCPMeta
02-02-2011, 01:11 PM
I see a lot of Charger engines starting from 2005 on EBay for good prices and they seem to be easier to find than Intrepid engines. Can I put one of these in my 2004 Intrepid to replace the 2.7?

I wouldn't. The LX series uses a different computer setup then the LH series. You can use the engine but 80% of it is compatible and you would need to switch out the intake, sensors and wire harness.

TCPMeta
02-02-2011, 01:13 PM
since i swapped from 2.7 to 3.5,the tranny is from 2.7,should i have bought speed censors for 2.7 or 3.5?

Shouldn't make a difference. Same transmission regardless. Only difference with the transmission is the transfer gears.

chrysler07
02-02-2011, 10:37 PM
Hello TCPMeta, I didnt recieve the manual, if its possible can you please send it again

TCPMeta
02-03-2011, 01:28 PM
Hello TCPMeta, I didnt recieve the manual, if its possible can you please send it again

I don't have one but DayTrepper sales them on ebay for a couple bucks and he's always gladly to talk ya thru it.

chrysler07
02-18-2011, 03:14 PM
TCPMeta, do you know the title of the book so I can narrow my search on ebay... I'm new to this

TCPMeta
02-21-2011, 11:00 AM
chrysler07, here you go.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220510802496&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

chrysler07
02-21-2011, 05:03 PM
Thanks so much

DeaTH_RideR
02-24-2011, 01:55 PM
Hello everybody , I wanted to first say im so very thankful to find all this information about this car after just buying a 1999 dodge intrepid with the 2.7.

I will say i love the look of this car and if i would have done some homework before buying it , i most likely would have not bought it.

But since i have it now here we go. I bought it for 2,200 with 94,549 miles it ran great while we drove it around on a test drive. As soon as i bought the thing and was on my way home it started making a knocking sound, i got it home and started searching for intrepid problems and found this site. So with that being said im now looking for a 3.2 i will keep everyone posted on how the swap is going once i get started.

TCPMeta
02-28-2011, 11:05 PM
Hello everybody , I wanted to first say im so very thankful to find all this information about this car after just buying a 1999 dodge intrepid with the 2.7.

I will say i love the look of this car and if i would have done some homework before buying it , i most likely would have not bought it.

But since i have it now here we go. I bought it for 2,200 with 94,549 miles it ran great while we drove it around on a test drive. As soon as i bought the thing and was on my way home it started making a knocking sound, i got it home and started searching for intrepid problems and found this site. So with that being said im now looking for a 3.2 i will keep everyone posted on how the swap is going once i get started.

Looking forward to watch this. If you need any help just send me a PM.

Ivan_DeSlayer
03-01-2011, 12:39 PM
Hi everyone. Like everyone else in this thread found it by doing a Google search for 2.7 3.2 swap. Like to say thanks for all the info and I'll be doing the dirty deed this weekend.

Ivan_DeSlayer
03-06-2011, 03:10 PM
Hey everyone on the middle of this engine swap and ran into a snag. The cooler line that runs from the lower rad line to the rear of the engine is missing from the drop in motor can I use the 2.7?

Ivan_DeSlayer
03-07-2011, 07:36 AM
Sorry

TCPMeta
03-09-2011, 03:27 PM
Not sure. I think so, might have to trim it.

I'm currently working on a guide for the swap. Doubt it will be glamorous then the one DayTrepper has on ebay but it will work as long as you have automotive knowledge to a certain degree.

Ivan_DeSlayer
03-10-2011, 07:40 AM
Thank you, I appreciate the time for replying. I did go through with it and it does work the issue is securing it. The 2.7 tube bolts to the block while the 3.2/3.5 bolts to one of the transmission bolt studs. I zip tie and some duct tape and all good. Actually I kind've bent the bracket a little and mounted it that way.

TCPMeta
03-11-2011, 07:18 AM
Oh, Now I know what part you're talking about. The pipe that connects to the water neck and runs along the side of the block. It's used for the tank and heater. I would get some brass fittings, hose clamps and hose.

Ivan_DeSlayer
03-16-2011, 09:47 AM
The dirty deed is done. The 3.2 lives and runs. I was really surprised it fired on the first try. Little rattle and all was good. The A/C compressor and lines are a different story. Neither line lines up or can be bent into some semblance of order to make that happen. Also the compressor was/is serp belt driven while the 3.2 ran the compressor off a V-belt so that's also a no-go. Again thank you everyone for the help and I hope to do another one of these as it's not as bad as my mind made it out to be. The vehicle I did it on was a 2000 Concord with 2.7.

TCPMeta
03-17-2011, 04:15 PM
Glad you got it running.

The compressor can be used, just have to switch out the compressor clutch and manifold. The lines to the compressor as you notice have to be changed.

strmvt
06-19-2011, 09:36 PM
Well this is my 1st post on these forums and it's to say another 2.7 to 3.5HO swap is done. I bought the 01 Trep for 1k b/c a quick change oil shop double gasketed the oil filter and it threw #'s 1 and 2 rods took out the 2.7 paperweight and dropped in a 3.5 for $650.00 for the complete drop out (I did all the work to pull the motor) After changing the timing belt, water pump, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, plugs she was ready to drop in. She started right up after after I primed the oil pump. I'd post pics but need to post 5 times before i can post pics :WHT: but anyway she runs like a champ. Pics to follow after i get my 5 posts in

Al Jr.
07-14-2011, 03:32 PM
Dan or anyone who can help,

I took all the advice here, and spent a bunch of money and I'm almost there, but having some problems. I have a 2000 Concorde. I swapped out the motor and put in a 2000 Chrysler 300M HO motor. I got everything in and hooked up and I tried the 300M ECU, and it wouldn't work, so I put in the 2.7l ECU and things seemed to work ok....for a little bit. Here's the situation that is happening now. The car starts right up when it is cold. It will run like a new engine for about 5 minutes. As soon as it warms up, just about when the thermostat will open. The car shuts down. Then it is very hard to start and it misses and carries on. If you let it get cold, it will run fine again until it warms up. The engine light came on, and it says ignition misfire, and crank shaft position sensor from the codes. The sensor was replaced, but there was no change.

Do you have any suggestions on what could be going on, or what the fix could be? I checked every ground and they all seem to be fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

TCPMeta
08-09-2011, 02:40 AM
Make sure youre getting 5 volts to power the crank sensor. Sometimes it will take a few start ups to train the PCM to learn the new engine. Can't use the 300m PCM unless you get a DRB-III Scanner to change the VIN number in the PCM coding so you'll have to live with the 2.7L PCM.

scusack71
08-09-2011, 07:54 PM
I followed the engine swap procedure from the book and is perfect. However, I am on my 7th attempt at cranking my engine to prime the oil pump. This is a rebuilt 3.2L and I serviced it with 5-qts of 10W-30 of which 1/2 qt I filled the oil filter, as per the procedure. I can't get the oil light to go out as detailed in the procedure. Any tips as to how to prime a new engine with oil for the first time? The oil pump was primed as layed out in the engine rebuild procedure. Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

TCPMeta
08-10-2011, 12:45 AM
When I primed my new motor I poured the oil into both heads when I had the valve covers off.

I know with some early second gen models there was a issue with the oil light but there was a fix for it. Make sure you have the oil pressure sensor installed correctly.

Meresya
08-30-2011, 08:06 PM
Hi. I just bought a 2000 Intrepid off my neighbor for $1500.00, before hearing all of the disturbing data regarding the 2.7 L engine. The car has 168,000 miles on it. The engine is perfectly quiet, absolutely no problems. I had taken the car to the dealer's by me for inspection as well as a mockup on the cost to repair the car. The sway bar bushing were shot, causing the front tires to rapidly degrade, requiring new tires. The second major repair was the driver's side latch, since the solenoid isn't singly replacable.

After all the repairs were done but one the dealer found the oil leak to be larger than before. Come to find out it wasn't the oil pan gasket that leaked but the timing chain cover. Something inside broke, and cracked the cover, but didn't mess up the timing.

I had them go ahead and fix the timing chain and the cover. However, they felt the retainer was okay, when they were supposed to treat it as a matched set to the timing chain. They put the car back together, started it, and let it run for a bit. Then they turned it off for about half an hour. They went to restart it, and it wouldn't start. They tore the engine down again, putting on a new retainer, and resetting the timing. The car still wouldn't start. Come to find out that the retainer let the timing chain slip as the car was shutting off. When they tried to restart it the timing was no longer correct. They trashed the engine, but to what exact extent isn't yet known. They had to send one head to the machine shop for two valves to be replaced and reseated. After putting it back together, they to start it again, without any luck, that is to say, the engine made such a noise that it probably startled the tech trying to start it, that they didn't bother to treat it like a tempermental car, but as a broken car.

Now they are tearing the engine way down (this is the fourth or fifth time) to find out what else went. They are not sure yet, but might even require a total rebuild, which they'd just put a new motor in (which means another 2.7 engine). They did say if they dropped a new engine, they'd use the heads off the old engine, but everything else would be brand new. As to this that they broke something, then tried to start the car at least twice, assuming they only tried one time each. Whatever broke has caused excessive incidental damage after the fact! My concern is that the block could be cracked, and go undetected.

My question, if a new motor is required, should I bring up a junkyard 3.5 engine along with all conversions as a solution over a new 2.7? Or would even a brand new 2.7 be a good or better deal in this case, since the dealer is having to pay because of their mistake? Just as an aside, they have had the car now for three weeks and two days, and are still tearing down the engine in order to determine the full extent of the damage. I am not sure if just a 3.2 or 3.5 from the junk yard is a great deal without rebuiding it first - which would be out of the question. However, the dealer has to make the problem correct as it was their fault. My intention is to get the best bang from the mistake. I even asked as to splitting the difference between a new 2.7 and a new 3.5, but can't find out anything until they discover the full extent of the damage. And I'm betting the difference would be out of my budget. Maybe the cost of the rebuild and conversion of a 3.2 or 3.5 might be cheaper than a new 2.7 (minus the heads)?

Thanks...

I'm just glad it was the dealer's mistake, and not mine! :thatfunny

TCPMeta
09-01-2011, 05:42 AM
Quite a story there. I highly doubt they will touch the conversion at all since the two dealers near me claim it's impossible to run a 2.7L PCM on a 3.5L and so on. If they do it then they will want a crap load of cash. What they will only do is at most depending on the damage is swapping what is known as a "short block" they will reuse the whole top end of the engine like sensors, intake, heads and so forth. They should only charge you for what you brought it in for since they screwed it up you shouldn't have to pay for the damages they caused. They should of replaced the retainer begin with.

As I said if they are willing to do the conversion they will charge you a lot more because they would want to replace all of the modules, a catalytic converter and misc things.

Best bet is find a backyard mechanic to do the swap or if you have the tools, time and knowledge you can do it your self and save a few grand.

Meresya
09-01-2011, 06:29 AM
Unfornuately it is even worse than that. They were talking about a new 2.7 engine. Now, after discovering the actual cost to them they are talking about a junkyard 2.7 engine. Of course now they have my ire up. There is no way a junkyard 2.7 can compare to the engine they totalled. They aren't even talking about a rebuilt junker.

Needless to say I'm up waiting for the business day to start so I can call my lawyer to find out my options.

dangljr
10-28-2011, 07:05 AM
Well, here we go. :loud: Some great info on this site. I am so thankful for the net and how we as brothers have come together to make each others life's that much easier. I have build several Subaru WRX/STI pretty much with information on Forums like this one. Thank you everyone who posts for your time and effort. Its websites like this and people like you guys that make America and the Working man a great dream and affordable in this time of trials and tribulations.

My Story-
Bought my 2000 intrepid for $300 5 years ago. Me and the old man decided to spent some big bucks and swap out the 2.7 with a Rebuilt 2.7 from Jasper. Engine worked well for 3 years until a water pump failure months ago. WHAT A JOKE. Jasper never replaced the water pump. What a joke. A weekend later I got the pump replaced and we are off again. Few months pass, apparently after the pump got replacement I had a small leak on the devil of a coolant line to thermostat housing. Moved to an apartment about 1 hour away from where I could work on my rides. So adding some coolant and water here and there kinda became comfortable because I was short on time and neglectful. Well leave it to the Girlfriend to pay no attention to the Temp and over heat it. She said she caught it before it got to hot but it is what it is. Decided to look at it last night and it just seemed to need some fluid. So I added some 50/50 coolant and hit the Highway. 20 min into the ride I have no heat and I am at optimal temp. Keeping an eye on the temp gauge I see 25min later, it starting to get colder. In the back of my mind I knew this was gonna be bad real quick. 27min into the trip my oil light pops on nice and bright. I am going 70mph with the cruise on. As I enter the exit ramp to my destination, I re apply the gas and KNOCK KNOCK WHO IS THERE. Come to the stop sign and that's all she wrote BOOM GOES THE 2.7. So right now she sits at the damn gas station. Chocolate Milk for Oil and pissed off Chilian Miners in the Block... Thank god I found this Forum and this Thread this morning, easing my mind more than anything could have today. Looking forward to dropping a 3.5 HO in this thing and enjoying it again. I will keep an up to date blog as I swap the 2.7 to 3.5. I am big into performance and Forced induction. Maybe we will see what a 3.5 HO Turbocharged E85 Intrepid HO-X will do :rck:

TCPMeta
10-29-2011, 05:18 AM
Well, here we go. :loud: Some great info on this site. I am so thankful for the net and how we as brothers have come together to make each others life's that much easier. I have build several Subaru WRX/STI pretty much with information on Forums like this one. Thank you everyone who posts for your time and effort. Its websites like this and people like you guys that make America and the Working man a great dream and affordable in this time of trials and tribulations.

My Story-
Bought my 2000 intrepid for $300 5 years ago. Me and the old man decided to spent some big bucks and swap out the 2.7 with a Rebuilt 2.7 from Jasper. Engine worked well for 3 years until a water pump failure months ago. WHAT A JOKE. Jasper never replaced the water pump. What a joke. A weekend later I got the pump replaced and we are off again. Few months pass, apparently after the pump got replacement I had a small leak on the devil of a coolant line to thermostat housing. Moved to an apartment about 1 hour away from where I could work on my rides. So adding some coolant and water here and there kinda became comfortable because I was short on time and neglectful. Well leave it to the Girlfriend to pay no attention to the Temp and over heat it. She said she caught it before it got to hot but it is what it is. Decided to look at it last night and it just seemed to need some fluid. So I added some 50/50 coolant and hit the Highway. 20 min into the ride I have no heat and I am at optimal temp. Keeping an eye on the temp gauge I see 25min later, it starting to get colder. In the back of my mind I knew this was gonna be bad real quick. 27min into the trip my oil light pops on nice and bright. I am going 70mph with the cruise on. As I enter the exit ramp to my destination, I re apply the gas and KNOCK KNOCK WHO IS THERE. Come to the stop sign and that's all she wrote BOOM GOES THE 2.7. So right now she sits at the damn gas station. Chocolate Milk for Oil and pissed off Chilian Miners in the Block... Thank god I found this Forum and this Thread this morning, easing my mind more than anything could have today. Looking forward to dropping a 3.5 HO in this thing and enjoying it again. I will keep an up to date blog as I swap the 2.7 to 3.5. I am big into performance and Forced induction. Maybe we will see what a 3.5 HO Turbocharged E85 Intrepid HO-X will do :rck:

Do not toss on more then 5PSI or the transmission will die in a matter of minutes. Even 5PSI is too much to handle.

Intrepido!
02-13-2012, 10:18 AM
i just signed up in this site so i can help my 80 year old neighbor with his car and have been amazed on how much problem the 2.7 engine has so I'm looking to getting that swapped for a 3.5 since my neighbor's timing chain just broke. i read this entire thread and really like it. i've been looking in e-bay for the how to that DayTreppers made but have not been able to find it. the link on page 2 says there's none available or at least is no longer on e-bay. anyone care to help me out find one or at least get the correct link so i can purchase it?

thanks guys.

Intrepido!
02-13-2012, 07:54 PM
Looks like I'm going to takle the task. I'll keep yall posted.

Flyin Okie
02-14-2012, 01:56 AM
Welcome,

Do an eBay search for "Dodge Intrepid 2.7 to 3.2 3.5 Engine Conversion Manual" with the seller being daytrepper. You won't be disappointed. I have the manual and am picking up my motor tomorrow.

volaredon
03-04-2012, 01:32 PM
what is different about the left side cam sprocket between the years?
I have a buddy w/an 02 Intrepid, he got an 00 3.2 from a yard, with NO accessories. and overpaid badly for it. They got it from another yard so I think he may be stuck with it. and can I take the flywheel from the o02 2.7 and put on the 00 3.2? Are both motor mounts different or just one?

TCPMeta
03-06-2012, 10:52 PM
what is different about the left side cam sprocket between the years?
I have a buddy w/an 02 Intrepid, he got an 00 3.2 from a yard, with NO accessories. and overpaid badly for it. They got it from another yard so I think he may be stuck with it. and can I take the flywheel from the o02 2.7 and put on the 00 3.2? Are both motor mounts different or just one?


The cam sprocket has different timing marks on it. You can re-use the 2.7L flexplate also. Motor mounts are the same.

TCPMeta
03-06-2012, 10:57 PM
Dan or anyone who can help,

I took all the advice here, and spent a bunch of money and I'm almost there, but having some problems. I have a 2000 Concorde. I swapped out the motor and put in a 2000 Chrysler 300M HO motor. I got everything in and hooked up and I tried the 300M ECU, and it wouldn't work, so I put in the 2.7l ECU and things seemed to work ok....for a little bit. Here's the situation that is happening now. The car starts right up when it is cold. It will run like a new engine for about 5 minutes. As soon as it warms up, just about when the thermostat will open. The car shuts down. Then it is very hard to start and it misses and carries on. If you let it get cold, it will run fine again until it warms up. The engine light came on, and it says ignition misfire, and crank shaft position sensor from the codes. The sensor was replaced, but there was no change.

Do you have any suggestions on what could be going on, or what the fix could be? I checked every ground and they all seem to be fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I know this is old but I hope this will reach you. You can only use the 300m PCM if you have the SKIM module and key that goes to the PCM. As for using the 2.7L PCM you could be having issues with a bad crank and cam positioning sensor. Always use OEM sensors, for some reason after market sensors don't work right and at times fail quickly.

Flyin Okie
03-07-2012, 07:41 AM
Motor mounts are the same.

Found this out the hard way. The one on the donor motor had literally fallen apart.

Am just about done with my conversion :rck:

volaredon
03-07-2012, 08:54 PM
The cam sprocket has different timing marks on it. You can re-use the 2.7L flexplate also. Motor mounts are the same.

Motor mounts the same? I had seen/heard somewhere that one was the same as the 3.2/3.5 and the other was not.

So the timing marks are different? If that engine is in time for what it is (an 00 3.2) why would I have to change it out then?

UPDATE The car is here in my garage the 3.2 went back yesterday;
the car owner went to the JY and talk to them, and they said that they would put his whole %1200 towards either a correct 3.5 or a replacement 2.7 or charge him only $100 restock fee. (reciept says 20% which would have been $240) so now I guess the plan is for me to pull the front off the 2.7 and check it out which was what i had suggested in the 1st place several months ago. Depending what I find there will tell whether to fix the 2.7 and get what miles they can from that or whether to go ahead with the 3.5 swap.

TCPMeta
03-08-2012, 01:26 AM
Chrysler changed the timing setup in early 01 as part of what I call their price cutting. For some reason this caused a change in the timing marks of the flexplate and cam sprocket for the crank and cam positioning sensors.

You can tell the difference by the PCM setup it uses. If it uses the single PCM/TCM combo unit then its a late 01 to 04 setup. If it uses the old two unit PCM and TCM then it's a 98 to early 01. Also you can tell by the EGR. in 02 to 04 Chrysler left out the EGR all together. Not to mention the SRV was changed from a vacuum setup to a electrical setup.

You could try using the 2000 flexplate and cam sprocket but I doubt it will start let alone run ruff.

Intrepido!
04-17-2012, 07:41 AM
Just wanted to add 1 more conversion completed. car runs much smoother than before. DayTrepper is the man!!!!.

not sure if it's appropriate to post this here.
after completing the swap i have a few left over new parts, in case anyone's interested.
-Air Intake Hose brand new
-Camshaft Seal, both Driver and Passenger side
-Valve Cover Gasket, includes Sparkplug Seal
-Oil Pan Gasket
-Engine Rear Main Seal

GA02Stratus
05-20-2012, 07:31 PM
is it possible to do this in my stratus?:rck:

zeeduke
05-21-2012, 12:33 PM
i like to say thanks for all the insight you guys share, i was wondering if i can put a 3.2 in a 04 intrepid , i have read where the flywheels and cam gear are different , but is the block the same , can i use the 3.2 short block and put the 3.5 heads on it , i dont care about losing power , it would be much cheaper for me as i have a 3.2 and looking to buy a 2004 with a 3.5 , thanks for the help

cargurl83
06-06-2012, 11:18 AM
I am in the middle of doing this swap. I am having a hard time finding the engine wiring harness. If anyone can help or has one for sale that would be so super great. I need this done and this is the last step. PLZ help this helpless cargurl!!!!!!

Intrepido!
07-03-2012, 09:07 AM
...

dltjmr
09-29-2012, 11:48 AM
I was given a 2001 dodge Intrepid ES nice car loaded 3.2 autostick leather 127000 miles. the bad is it was hit hard in the rear . I bought a 2001 dodge intrepid with a bad 2.7 125000 miles. im planing on doing a engine swap and would like to do the autostick swap also. also thinking about doing a lether seat swap also does anybody have any info on doing a engine and autostick swap?

ddhardcore
11-04-2012, 05:42 PM
Does rad fans from a 2002 intrepid 3.5 fit a 2001 2.7 rad

mtsufan16976
04-20-2013, 11:18 AM
Hello I have done a 3.5 swap I have used this forum since the start.the carr runs great I am having one problem after warm up creeps up in temp. And I can turn the heat on and control it for awhile then it will do it again with the heat on also no smoke no oil in coolant no coolant in oil no combustion is coolant and no bubbling in resivor also has new water pump and thermostat any ideas?!

andyk
04-26-2013, 03:01 PM
Does anyone know of the later 4.0 v6 from a minivan or Pacifica being swapped? It is a stroked 3.5 but I am not certain of what similarities or differences exist with the sensors and control system.

landen09
06-08-2013, 09:58 AM
i done a lot of looking on this fourm its helped with my last 2.7 - 3.2 swap
a couple years ago i found a cheap 2000 intrepid with blown 2.7 but found a 1999 concorde with a 3.2 in it swaped them a few months later totaled the 2000 :ugh
got the 3.2 pulled out its been sittin an waiting
came across a 2003 intrepid with blown 2.7
looked on this site again an relized that it says years have to match up? i with thru 5 pages too see if anybody asked why i didnt see that anybody did
but can anybody tell me what is the reason for the years have to be in a specific rage?

thanks even though kinda sounds confusing

colorado2011
11-17-2013, 04:02 PM
Hello. I have done a few of these swaps, but the one I am doing now is driving me nuts. It is however not in the same year brackets as I have ever done nor one that says can be done. The car is a 2004 Intrepid with the 2.7, and I have installed a 1999 3.2 engine. All I had to do was use the 2.7 wiring harness and change a few ends to sensors and extend some wiring to reach others. The car does run, however I am getting the P0344 code. I used to get a correlation code between the two but not any more. I get this one and an IAC code which I don't think there is anything I can do to fix that. the 2.7 has a 2 wire IAC and the 3.2 has a 4 wire. My question is this, what could cause my cam sensor intermittent code? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.